S-Class (W140) 1991-1999: 300 SD, S 350TD, 300 SE 2.8, S280, 300 SE 3.2, 300 SEL 3.2, S320, S320L, 400 SE, S420, 400 SEL, S420L, 500 SE, S500, 500 SEL, S500L, 600 SE, S600, 600 SEL, S600L, 500 SEC, 600 SEC

merc virgin s claas vs. e class 1993/1994

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Old 03-17-2003, 03:08 AM
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Question merc virgin s claas vs. e class 1993/1994

i'm an ex bmw owner and a friend whos a merc enthusiast thinks i should buy a merc as i really want some reliability

he told me to go for a 1994 e280 or e320 and i started to look at these models second hand as they fit within my price range

upon visiting some of the car dealers i couldn't help havin my eye caught by the s class - i like the shape and the interior

a similar year or slightly later s class seems to be another $5,000NZD - $10,000NZD (approx 3500 euros or 3500usd)

i test drove a s400 93 today with 99k on the clock imported out of japan. Easily the best car with the most impressive interior that i have driven on appearance and handled beautifully

the same friend tells me to be cautious of the imports from high humidity countries (in this case japan) as the "wiring looms" deteriorate, and can be a very expensive problem to fix

this car is very affordable - almost to cheap to believe, i plan to get it fully checked and do a bit of research before i go further

but would be really appreciative of any advise or experience with s class in general (particularly wiring detrioration problems)

please advise

chris
a very young "old campaigner"
Old 03-17-2003, 03:25 AM
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1997 Toyota Tacoma 4x4
There's always a catch, isn't there? The car may be very affordable, however, the maintenance and upkeep is not. With nearly 100K miles on the car, you're looking at a lot of components that are going to start to fail soon. With the 140 S-class, you had better have a lot of disposable income to spend on repairs and upkeep. I'd recommend you go for the C-Class or an E-class. Some common failures on the S-Class include:

-PSE vacuum pump (for door closing assist)
-Oil leaks (oil level sender, oil filter housing, power steering pump, steering gearbox, trans. cooler hoses, valve cover gaskets)
-Cracked driveshaft flex discs
-Torn front lower control arm bushings
-Worn rear suspension hydrocells
-Throttle actuator setting fault codes
-Transmission Bowden cable setting fault codes
-Leaking A/C evaporator
-Blower motor regulator

Last edited by mbtech208; 03-17-2003 at 04:34 AM.
Old 03-18-2003, 02:41 PM
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1995 S420
Oh my God, is there anything else left on the car once these have been taken care of, or does the cycle begin all over again? It seems you'd have a new S-class by then.
Y. Chachad


Originally posted by mbtech208
There's always a catch, isn't there? The car may be very affordable, however, the maintenance and upkeep is not. With nearly 100K miles on the car, you're looking at a lot of components that are going to start to fail soon. With the 140 S-class, you had better have a lot of disposable income to spend on repairs and upkeep. I'd recommend you go for the C-Class or an E-class. Some common failures on the S-Class include:

-PSE vacuum pump (for door closing assist)
-Oil leaks (oil level sender, oil filter housing, power steering pump, steering gearbox, trans. cooler hoses, valve cover gaskets)
-Cracked driveshaft flex discs
-Torn front lower control arm bushings
-Worn rear suspension hydrocells
-Throttle actuator setting fault codes
-Transmission Bowden cable setting fault codes
-Leaking A/C evaporator
-Blower motor regulator
Old 03-19-2003, 12:18 AM
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S320
I just bought a 1994 S320 with 108,000 miles. I have all the repair records and there were no wiring problems. The main issues were the A/C evaporator requiring replacement ($2,500 for the whole job) and a window regulator. THE other repairs were all normal wear and tear. I get 20 mpg in mixed driving and 26 mpg on the highway at 75 mph. It's a great car!
Old 03-19-2003, 08:15 AM
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S320
More S Class Info

I looked again at my records and there were a few more items that passed my threshhlod of significance (over $300). On my S320, the power steering gear box ($1,200), the Sunroof drive and rails ($800) and a water pump ($600) were replaced. I still think that a total of $13,000 for repairs and normal maintenance in 108,000 miles is not bad for a car of this complexity, and this car has been maintained BY THE BOOK.
Old 03-20-2003, 05:19 PM
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W140 S300 TD
I have a W124 and a W140. Both are diesel powered.
Curiously I had no problems with my W140 at about 100 K miles.

I use theses benzes to carry two horses.

I am very carefull while driving.

I never "take" more than 2.300 rpm until the motor temperature is not the standard service one.
When carrying horses I check out the rpm counter (and in the W140) just to prevent the automatic downhift and then the transmission fluid to be too warm.

My W124 shows more than 365 K miles on the clock.
I just have a problem that had cost 1100 € to fix.
Perhaps is this due to the real lack of this car equipement ?

All mechanic parts are very reliable on the two cars.

Remember. You'll buy a 10.000 € car (W140) but you will maintain a 50.000 € one !
Old 08-28-2007, 05:51 AM
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Mercedes Benz S500
merc virgin s claas vs. e class 1993/1994

Hi
Be Carefull , Japanese W140s are no good ,specially here in Australia ,Look on the Web for the Compliance Plates issue wich everyone seems to overlook , you loose a lot of Value not talking about Parts i heard somewhere, Try to get a good S500 like i have found one and u be driving the best Car around , all the Oilchange /filter/ sparkplugs etc.. if u are Home mechanic u can do a lot of your own dont get scared , the only think which wories me if it should brake is the AC Evaporator ,anyway god luck .
Reg . from Chris
Remember it is a Big heavy Car & needs a Big V8 to get it rolling , 5L is perfect for this car V12 its too much to worrie if it brakes , 4L maybe ok i dont know , 6 cylinder Merc I think i better drive a VW .
Ciao

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