any one have a idea why this is happing,I 've changed the regulator twice with the same results ,but to day i was just looking at the blower motor and it just started shaking when i touched the wire to the regulator it almost burned me it was very hot,i moved it and the blower stop working i moved it again and it started back i see alot of rust on the blower could that be part of my problem,oh the control unit does not respond to the controls as far as the speeds go,i hope this helps you help me solove this problem thanks for your time

with the way you describe things, i strongly suggest you send it to someone who knows how to do it, some DIY (do it yourself) things are not meant for newbies, you might create more problem than the current issue. just to give you an idea, the blower speed control(inside the cabin) is to control the speed, and it can be diagnose without taking the control unit out, the resistor is actually a speed regulator and it should really get super hot (that's the heat sink) if the line are loose and you are not familiar with it do have an auto electrician handle it, you really do not want to have your car end up burning since you are pretty new in this as i can see how you wrote the way you handle the situation "BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY". good luck.

BTW your heading reads your blower wont stop running, but the content of your blog is different, which one do you wish to be addressed? a full detail of the actual issue may be helpful to those who may be able to lead you to the rectification procedure.

cool lagoon
thank you for your response,and yes the blower motor wont stop running i changed the regulator twice and still have the same problem.with the key out and fuses 20,21 removed the climate control out also it still keeps running ,I have to unhook the battery to shut it off ,I taken the climate control apart and i do see what looks like small burns in three spots,I had no control over the buttons no response on most of them i would like to send it out to be repaired but have no clue to where if you know of a place i would like to know ,I got this car at an auction and i' m retired due to a bad ticker so i was just haming around with it you know to much time on my hands and just can't stand sitting around, any way thank you for your help and i will take heed to what you've said.
ronsaun

ronsaun where are you located

electronic items cannot be diagnose with just your naked eye you need knowledge and electronic testers as well as diagnostic tools, take picture and post and will try to guide you around it.

This is one of the most beautiful model design of MB but is also considered one of the worst engineering quality a super nightmare for the faint heart individual, too difficult to diagnose, quality at its worst, parts (wiring harness) that are factory lemons. Be ready to accept and spend a fortune if you intent to maintain your 140 at tip top condition. What is your S class engine/series?

Cool Lagoon
Im in Ohio and i understand what your saying Itake a pic tomorrow and post,I got it from the auction and it was running ok until a busted hose after that she went crazy on me,I do want her in tip top condition and I know it'll take time and money but I really really like my s500 it's a 99 but the door sticker saying it was made in 98 title says 99
w140 thanks again will post tomorrow after Dr visit
ronsaun

I am an electrician and based on this description I think you have a short circuit, meaning that you have a primary wire that is crossed up and constantly getting power when it should not. It can be a simple as a wire with broken insulation. Inspect the condition of all the conductors leading to the blower motor and regulator. Use electrical tape or heat shrink insulation to cover up any wires with broken insulation.

ronsaun, you are not the first to suffer that, MB have change several suppliers for the climate control module, it has proven to be a nuisance, Kcscout is also right you might want to make sure all wiring harness are in good condition as the deterioration of the dreaded wiring harness disease is imminent in this S class series. my best bet is on the climate control module (assuming the blower speed regulators are in good condition). Take a look at the button where the word REST is written, after taking out the keys see if the REST will activate after a few minutes of shutting off and pulling out the key. If it comes on then you definitely would want to purchase a new control module or have it fix. first supplier was Kremer then came Bosch.

I can't get it to shut off so I couldn't check the rest button,and I felt the wires running off the side of the blower and they felt really old it's just two that connect,don't think i can replace them tho they run under the housing and under the vent,the blower looks really rusty to me what do you think about it.so thanks to all for all your help you've been very kind to a rookie.Ive been trying to get these pics to you all-all day
ronsaun

the rust on your blower motor is due to the seal on the plastic cover which may have deteriorated, replace it and make sure the bolts are properly in place. try to take out and disconnect the socket connected on the climate control module and see if the blower stops, it is does then you have eliminated the wiring problem. let me know what happens after this step.

so I have to put the climate control back together and when I reinstalled it,It now shuts off but I have no control over fan speed or reset,ec,the fan blows on high if I have heat or ac on.So don't know which is better no blower on one blowing on high and you know how strong the mb blowers are . thanks again for your help every one !

That problem is easy. Sounds like your blower regulator is burned out. The original one on that model was famous for failing and leaving the blower on high. I changed mine a couple of years ago for the same symptoms. Yours probably burned up due to whatever was causing your blower to run continuously.

i'll gt another new one i have replaced it twice cause they both acted the same way ,did you see the pics of my climate control there were four spots that looked like they could be trouble ,to me any way what do you all think.thanks for your input i do value what you guys say.

where is the picture and did you follow step by step as i have written? its called elimination round.

yes I did what you said.and its bad,I also pulled the blower motor and the bushing are bad I took it to a shop that fixes starters and was told the bushing were bad he could move the blower fan in any direction so I need another one right ?,I see why the car was at the auction now.but i git her done it'll take some time but that's all I got
I want to thank everyone once again for all your help so [ Thanks alot for your help ]
ronsaun
oh the pics of my circuit board are in the 13 th post,Id still like to know what you think

Your burned out blower motor does not have to cost you a fortune to replace. I had to replace mine a few months ago and was able to find a replacement motor (without the wheel) for about $65. Check on ebay and some of the MB parts places on line.