Considering 1992 500 SEL... what to BOLO?
#1
Considering 1992 500 SEL... what to BOLO?
Test drove a W140 1992 500SEL today. Only asking $1000 obo USD. Knowing that, and the following already noticeable problems, what else should I be looking for?
Known issues:
-front corners replaced w clear lenses (taped on), bulbs not connected
-DS rear window shattered, still in place, unk if operable
-PS rear window inop due to minor dent in door, window likely off it's track, poss regulator needed
-ACC pedal sluggish in first gear, needs to be depressed more than feels it should
-rattling in rear suspension (supposedly recently repaired), checked trunk, spare tire not secured, possible cause
Most of this stuff is cosmetic, and the engine and exhaust sound fantastic (plus good inspection until 2017). I'm trading in my F150 to eliminate payments are find something reliable for about a year. I figure at the price not much will beat it. Any suggestions on what else I should check or watch for when I go back? Thanks in advance!
Known issues:
-front corners replaced w clear lenses (taped on), bulbs not connected
-DS rear window shattered, still in place, unk if operable
-PS rear window inop due to minor dent in door, window likely off it's track, poss regulator needed
-ACC pedal sluggish in first gear, needs to be depressed more than feels it should
-rattling in rear suspension (supposedly recently repaired), checked trunk, spare tire not secured, possible cause
Most of this stuff is cosmetic, and the engine and exhaust sound fantastic (plus good inspection until 2017). I'm trading in my F150 to eliminate payments are find something reliable for about a year. I figure at the price not much will beat it. Any suggestions on what else I should check or watch for when I go back? Thanks in advance!
#2
Senior Member
I got a laugh with you saying, "find something reliable for about a year." How many miles are on it? Seriously, the older W140s can be a money pit. Known issues with the W140's are the environmentally friendly wiring harnesses that prematurely degrade and A/C evaporator failure so no cold air. Window regulators are always an issue with the Mercedes of that era. For the S500 in particular, you have a hydropneumatic self leveling suspension in the rear. If you drive it and it's like feels like a plywood board bounce then the rear accumulators need replacing. Otherwise you will damage the rear hydraulic shocks and it will be even more expensive to repair. Also check the motor mounts and transmission mounts. Those might need replacing. Lastly, check the brakes and the brake pad thickness, and if you have enough tire tread to last a year. The vehicle is heavy and likes eating brake pads and rubber tires for dessert. I owned a 1997 S500 and it was a love hate relationship. However, on good days it was the smoothest V8 Mercedes I have ever driven.
#3
Thanks for the reply. With regard to the rear suspension, the seller said he just had the shocks replaced along with brakes in front and rear and rear calipers. So I guess the accumulators need replacing to prevent those from wearing down again. Any idea on price for parts?
It has 167k miles which isn't too bad considering its 23 years old. AC was cold but it likely needs new window regulators in the rear on both sides which I priced earlier while doing research at about $50/each. Motor and tranny mounts I will check when I see the vehicle again. Any other major things to look for? I have done plenty of research and have seen the mercedessource video series on the M119 engine, so I know to check spark plugs/wiring harnesses/hoses after purchase, but what about before money changes hands?
And as far as "for about a year" is concerned, just trying to get my finances in order and in that time I plan to sell/trade in the car for something more decent.
So far I put expenses after purchase to:
-DS rear window: $300
-(2) rear window regulators: $100
-Misc minor repairs: $200
-Detailing: 2-3 hours
-Accumulators: ???
Glad I could give you a chuckle at least!
It has 167k miles which isn't too bad considering its 23 years old. AC was cold but it likely needs new window regulators in the rear on both sides which I priced earlier while doing research at about $50/each. Motor and tranny mounts I will check when I see the vehicle again. Any other major things to look for? I have done plenty of research and have seen the mercedessource video series on the M119 engine, so I know to check spark plugs/wiring harnesses/hoses after purchase, but what about before money changes hands?
And as far as "for about a year" is concerned, just trying to get my finances in order and in that time I plan to sell/trade in the car for something more decent.
So far I put expenses after purchase to:
-DS rear window: $300
-(2) rear window regulators: $100
-Misc minor repairs: $200
-Detailing: 2-3 hours
-Accumulators: ???
Glad I could give you a chuckle at least!
Last edited by nater414; 05-25-2015 at 04:03 AM.
#4
Super Member
Hater, since you mentioned mercedes source, the video on purchasing 10+ year old mercedes is a must. Like KNB mentioned wiring harness would be the most expensive items (there are 2), followed by A/C evaporator ((requires days removal big labor bill), rear suspension, coils, lifters, etc. I'm not trying to discourage you, pay a grand for a car, put 2 grand into maintenance, still cheaper than a new car payment( less than $300/mo) and the car drives like a dream. Heavy car so if you don't go larger than "18 rims tires will not be an issue. Good Luck!!
#6
Junior Member
I have owned three older Mercedes vehicles over the years and looked at a lot of vehicles before I selected each car I purchased. When I see the things you have described as issues it makes me wonder what else is wrong and what I might be missing. The things that can't be seen tend to be the most expensive to repair/replace.
I look for service records in every case. I want to know who serviced the vehicle and what was done. I want to know if the regular maintenance service was performed.
Finally, I would caution you that in many cases people are getting you to pay them for things that they would otherwise have to dispose of because they are not worth fixing in terms of return on investment. Some folks take good care of their vehicles and others let them go to pot and hope no one will notice.
Paul Curtis
I look for service records in every case. I want to know who serviced the vehicle and what was done. I want to know if the regular maintenance service was performed.
Finally, I would caution you that in many cases people are getting you to pay them for things that they would otherwise have to dispose of because they are not worth fixing in terms of return on investment. Some folks take good care of their vehicles and others let them go to pot and hope no one will notice.
Paul Curtis
#7
I appreciate the input. However, I'm fully aware if the pitfalls of purchasing a used vehicle. Every vehicle I have ever owned has been used, and I usually look for the same things as you.
But this is a special case and I am asking about this specific vehicle. I am fully aware and accept the risks involved in purchasing a vehicle such as this one. This thread is my attempt to mitigate and limit those risks prior to investing in the vehicle.
But this is a special case and I am asking about this specific vehicle. I am fully aware and accept the risks involved in purchasing a vehicle such as this one. This thread is my attempt to mitigate and limit those risks prior to investing in the vehicle.
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#8
Junior Member
Thank you for your reply. Clearly we share a lot of the experiences, you perhaps, more than I.
I am always willing to share but don't hold myself out as an expert by any means.
All my best,
Paul Curtis
I am always willing to share but don't hold myself out as an expert by any means.
All my best,
Paul Curtis
#9
Senior Member
Nater, the accumulators parts alone are around a couple hundred I think. From what I remember it cost me about $800? with labor to replace at an independent shop run by a former Mercedes-Benz master mechanic. It's been a while since I had a W140, so I'm remembering little things here and there as I go a long.
1) There is a plastic tee by the firewall I think engine coolant runs through it. It is known to fail and cause catastrophic damage to the engine. My mechanic says that most of the time people will be driving a long and see a billow of white smoke and will continue to drive the car not knowing all the coolant leaked out. It's a small part so cheap insurance to have it replaced.
2) The blower motor in front of the passenger side firewall is known to fail over time. Make sure the filter above it is replaced. Clear out old leaves and debris around the blower motor. Overall, Mercedes did not does not do a good job with rain and debris management around the engine. My newer S-Class has leaves and debris get into the starter battery compartment and behind the brake master cylinder. Totally unacceptable when my Lexus does not have that problem. Toyota protects the engine compartment pretty well from leaves.
3) Check the flex disk connection on the drive shaft. That is a 'normal' wear item especially with as many miles as the one you are looking at.
4) Check the high mount stop light operation. Sometimes intermittent operation because the plastic used in the housing material has melted and interupted the contact with the bulb. Be very careful when handling the plastic housing because with age it becomes brittle and a new housing costs a gazillion dollars or is hard to find on ebay.
5) I had a heck of a time with the rear view mirror inside the car. One day it just busted open while I was driving. The plastic grew weak over time and the friction fit assembly could no longer hold itself together. As with the high mount stop light housing be very careful with sun exposed plastic parts on the W140. They will break easily. The W140 rear mirror is the most complicated rear view mirror assembly I have ever done. I had to buy two sets of used rear view mirrors from Ebay at $80/each as donors for my car. Total PITA!!!
6) Seat belt tensioners tend to go soft over time and leave a lot of slack. The seat belts will hang down and not fully retract. Replace the seat belt tensioner assembly. Be careful if it's the driver or passenger side. There is a small detonator that explodes in an accident to tighten the seat belts for front passengers. Rear seat belt tensioner was my main issue.
7) Check the rear power seat recline travel if it's got power rear seats. My S500 had that and although I rarely moved it, it was nice to show off when it worked.
8) Headlamp washer arm sometimes doesn't return to rest position. The headlamp washers only work when the lights are turned on and you fully depress the windshield washer stalk to spray the windshield.
That's all I can think of for now. As I said earlier, the M119 engine is THE BEST Mercedes-Benz engine I have ever driven. For $1K I'm thinking you aren't expecting a cream puff anyway so shouldn't be too surprised. If you take good care of the car, it will be good driving for a number of years. Wish you luck on this.
1) There is a plastic tee by the firewall I think engine coolant runs through it. It is known to fail and cause catastrophic damage to the engine. My mechanic says that most of the time people will be driving a long and see a billow of white smoke and will continue to drive the car not knowing all the coolant leaked out. It's a small part so cheap insurance to have it replaced.
2) The blower motor in front of the passenger side firewall is known to fail over time. Make sure the filter above it is replaced. Clear out old leaves and debris around the blower motor. Overall, Mercedes did not does not do a good job with rain and debris management around the engine. My newer S-Class has leaves and debris get into the starter battery compartment and behind the brake master cylinder. Totally unacceptable when my Lexus does not have that problem. Toyota protects the engine compartment pretty well from leaves.
3) Check the flex disk connection on the drive shaft. That is a 'normal' wear item especially with as many miles as the one you are looking at.
4) Check the high mount stop light operation. Sometimes intermittent operation because the plastic used in the housing material has melted and interupted the contact with the bulb. Be very careful when handling the plastic housing because with age it becomes brittle and a new housing costs a gazillion dollars or is hard to find on ebay.
5) I had a heck of a time with the rear view mirror inside the car. One day it just busted open while I was driving. The plastic grew weak over time and the friction fit assembly could no longer hold itself together. As with the high mount stop light housing be very careful with sun exposed plastic parts on the W140. They will break easily. The W140 rear mirror is the most complicated rear view mirror assembly I have ever done. I had to buy two sets of used rear view mirrors from Ebay at $80/each as donors for my car. Total PITA!!!
6) Seat belt tensioners tend to go soft over time and leave a lot of slack. The seat belts will hang down and not fully retract. Replace the seat belt tensioner assembly. Be careful if it's the driver or passenger side. There is a small detonator that explodes in an accident to tighten the seat belts for front passengers. Rear seat belt tensioner was my main issue.
7) Check the rear power seat recline travel if it's got power rear seats. My S500 had that and although I rarely moved it, it was nice to show off when it worked.
8) Headlamp washer arm sometimes doesn't return to rest position. The headlamp washers only work when the lights are turned on and you fully depress the windshield washer stalk to spray the windshield.
That's all I can think of for now. As I said earlier, the M119 engine is THE BEST Mercedes-Benz engine I have ever driven. For $1K I'm thinking you aren't expecting a cream puff anyway so shouldn't be too surprised. If you take good care of the car, it will be good driving for a number of years. Wish you luck on this.
#10
Much appreciated sir! Exactly what I was looking for! Though a new complication has arisen. The owner said the vehicle was inspected in February but I ran the VIN through the NJ inspection report system which allows you to see the latest inspection report for any vehicle in the state says it was last inspected in 2008. So either it was a legitimate mistake and there's a typo in the VIN, it's a deliberate attempt to mislead, or it's a fraudulent inspection sticker. I'm willing to give the benefit of the doubt but I think I'll drop by and get the VIN myself on my way home from work. Ill let you know how it works out!
Also, is this the correct part for the accumulator?
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1992/mercedes/500sel/suspension/accumulator.html
Also, is this the correct part for the accumulator?
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1992/mercedes/500sel/suspension/accumulator.html
Last edited by nater414; 05-27-2015 at 04:57 AM.
#11
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1999 S500 W140 69K Miles 2013 W221 S550
One major thing to watch out for is the rear hydraulic suspension. Because it's self leveling they have alot of issues. I personally have a w140 and it's pricy when there's damage. But be aware that you will have to start avoiding potholes and imperfections on the street. Being a heavy car weighing 2 tons can bring alot of damage overtime to the suspension. You might go over it and not feel much but over time your car will take the beating. So be safe then sorry.
People would tell me it's the same for every car (obviously) But the repair for a damage in a W140 is different then a toyota.
People would tell me it's the same for every car (obviously) But the repair for a damage in a W140 is different then a toyota.
#12
Is it only the 500's and 600's that have SLS? I found an S420 in much better condition and am thinking it may be better to avoid the whole SLS thing all together since it seems to be everyone's main concern (aside from the AC condenser) and a major aspect of maintenance.
#13
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1999 S500 W140 69K Miles 2013 W221 S550
That I'm not sure of... but even if you got a S420 it would still be very similiar. IF it doesn't have sls it would be cheaper with replacing suspension but would sustain basically the same way a w140 with sls would.
#14
That certainly makes sense to me. I guess SLS might serve a dual purpose in such a heavy car: to increase ride comfort for the occupants and to protect the suspension itself. Thank you for the replies!
#15
Senior Member
Much appreciated sir! Exactly what I was looking for! Though a new complication has arisen. The owner said the vehicle was inspected in February but I ran the VIN through the NJ inspection report system which allows you to see the latest inspection report for any vehicle in the state says it was last inspected in 2008. So either it was a legitimate mistake and there's a typo in the VIN, it's a deliberate attempt to mislead, or it's a fraudulent inspection sticker. I'm willing to give the benefit of the doubt but I think I'll drop by and get the VIN myself on my way home from work. Ill let you know how it works out!
Also, is this the correct part for the accumulator?
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...cumulator.html
Also, is this the correct part for the accumulator?
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...cumulator.html
#16
Senior Member
Is it only the 500's and 600's that have SLS? I found an S420 in much better condition and am thinking it may be better to avoid the whole SLS thing all together since it seems to be everyone's main concern (aside from the AC condenser) and a major aspect of maintenance.
#18
Super Member
Hi Nater, I use Rex Carle automotive in Downingtown, PA as my indie for Mercedes and BMW. He is good with cars and fair on price. Here is a link for his shop and other MB Independent service shops:
http://www.benzshops.com/pennsylvani...motive-service
http://www.benzshops.com/pennsylvani...motive-service
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
what a old car.I be afraid of catching on fire.Its time to move into the w220s.Around 2005 model.