I know a lot of these points are just common sense but I think it's so easy to let emotions get the better of us when looking for a new car,(partic, if it's something like an S) that common sense just flies out the window.
One thing thats happened to me more than once,and this applies even if a car is being sold privately) is that the seller withholds information,or forgets or just downright lies,but its easy for me not to hear to clearly when I am so ga ga in love with his car.
Look for signs of body repair or repaint,over spray or masking lines can often be spotted,plus a car thats been used should have a few minor hood chips or little dings here and there.
Never feel pressured to commit,run a carfax,look at comparables, and if you still are in love the next morning have the vehicle checked by a good mechanic.
By the way, we all have basic animal instints, some of us have better than others, but if the person you are dealing with gives you any doubt or gives you an uneasy feeling don't buy the car, theres plenty out there.
ou really never know what you are getting when you are looking to buy a used vehicle, but if you ask the following questions you will have a pretty good idea.


Do you own the vehicle?
Ideally, you should only buy a vehicle from the owner. There are situations, however, where the owner is not able to sell the vehicle and hands it off to someone who can. In these situations it is especially important to run a vehicle history check to assure that the vehicle has a clean title.


Why are you selling?
Everyone has their own reasons for selling a car. The most likely response you will hear is "I just bought a new one, and I need to get rid of this one." However, if you hear something like "I got in a wreck last year and the car just hasn't been right since" or "I just got it back from the mechanic and it's going to cost too much to fix" you should probably look elsewhere.

How long have you had the vehicle?
The most preferable situation is one in which the seller has owned the vehicle since it was driven off the lot. This situation will generally provide the best records and you will have the best idea of how the vehicle was driven. However, this is not always possibly; when the seller is just one of the vehicle's owners be sure to take the seller's responses to the other items on this list into consideration and make your best judgement.


How many previous owners has the vehicle had?
The more drivers a vehicle has, the more inconsistently it has been used. Inconsistent use causes more problems in the long run. Not only that the more drivers a vehicle has had the less likely you will be able to see all of the maintenance records.


What have you replaced/repaired?
Listen for things that seem out of place for the mileage. If the car's odometer reads 20,000 miles but the seller says they just replaced the transmission there is a problem.


Are the repair bills available for review?
Make sure that the bills match what the seller has told you. Look for repairs that the seller did not mention. Be aware if unmentioned repairs were big ticket items or if they don't match up with the mileage.


What do you think the vehicle will need first? In the next 10,000 miles? 20,000 miles? etc.
The answer to this item is a good indication of what the seller knows about maintenance and of their honesty. If the vehicle has 90,000 miles on it and the seller claims they haven't repaired anything and that it shouldn't need anything something is off.


Is there anything wrong with the vehicle, that you know of?
In most cases the seller will be honest with you; however, don't overestimate their honesty and always have a mechanic look the vehicle over before handing any money over.


How has the vehicle been used?
You are looking to get an idea of the vehicle's history. Perhaps the vehicle has low miles, but maybe that is because it was only used for vacations when the family towed a 30,000 lb trailer. The response to this question should provide you with a better ground to compare other responses to (e.g., estimated repairs).


If it is truck, van, or something similar - Has the vehicle been used for towing? If so, what was towed?
If the vehicle was used for towing make sure that the vehicle is made to tow and that the GVWR or TWA was not exceeded. If it was you could be looking at some serious transmission problems.


Are the miles from city or highway driving?
Highway miles are more gentle on a vehicle than city miles are.


Would it be okay to run a history check?
Doing a vehicle history check is a great way to get a general idea of what the vehicle has been through. You will know very quickly if the title is clean or if the vehicle has been in an accident.

 

Very helpful!

Are you writing a book or did you do it Just Because?

 

LOL,
Just because you know.
But seriously,it's just so easy to forget basics when buying a car because its so easy to jsut fall in love and well,
"I just have to have that car right now".
Hope I didn,t waffle on too much.

 

No "waffling" there!

 

Heres an link regarding ppls experiences with dealers that may help a little.

http://www.dealerrater.com/

 

Been there, done that: I filled out a form on my dealer, and it was positive.

 

Remember most sellers lie. Until they prove otherwise don't take what they say to be true. I have had people lie to me point blank about things like service records and rust. I had one guy swear up and down the car was taken care of and he had a complete service book. When I got their no records, and the service book never had anything written in it. Needless to say after driving a few hours I was pissed.

 

Let me get a bit specific since this is the S-class forum... I see that my local dealer has pre-owned certified S-class models for cheap prices:
e.g. 2003 S430 for $50k

Now, is this a good deal? Should I expect huge repair bills and maintenance problems with a used S-class?

I don't plan on getting an S-class in the near future, but I would like to know if it's ok to get a used one, when I'm ready to get one a few years later.

 

I think you could do a lot better than $50, ever for dealer certified. You might want to check Edmonds or Carfax, etc...

Actually, I just did an Edmonds search and found them $46k to $50. Most did seem to be at $50k, so you may have the correct amount.

 

thanks man.. i got no rush... but i will definitely consider getting a pre-owned car when i'm ready to get an S-class

still waiting on some responses about reliability of an s-class that's a few years old...

 

I've had mine for over six years and consider it as reliable as any I have ever had. Would buy it again in a NYC minute!

 

Hmm.. I've never been to Kansas... how's the car culture out there?

 

An S class will be as reliable as the owner makes it. Service the car and it will last you for many many years to come. True there are some instances where the car breaks down but that is expected with any fairly used car. The key is to get it in the shop as soon as the warning signs comes on and not to wait until it breaks down to get it in for repairs. MB cars have so many sensor and there is a reason for that. A typical S class driver wants status and will not like to be stranded on the side of the road and MB knows that and thats why they install sensors on anything that works in the car. Those sensor dont come on when it breaks down. They come on before a breakdown is imminent so you can get it in the shop and have it repaired. Take for instance the airmatic. The first thing to go is the relay. Once that happens you get a warning to visit workshop. Ignore that and the relay will take the sensor and the pump with it. Now you have a problem. It's a shame that now we have these cars going for $20-$30 and there are more people buying because they can finnally afford the note. They don't realize how expensive repairs and regular maintenance can be. Once the car breaks down then they start attacking the maker for unreliability. It's one thing to afford the monthly note and it's another thing to afford the upkeep. Just like a cute woman will cost you for the upkeep if you want her to stay cute. You better pay for the beauty shop visits. My car has been in the shop a couple of times but thats bcause after 6 years of ownership, yes I will expect my air to go out, my airmatic to clown, my bulbs to blow, a leak in the tranny fluid. Those are not considered major breakdowns. I consider those regular maintenance. I will buy this car over and over and over and my kids will buy MBs because I instill in them how reliable the car can be.
On the other hand, take a six year old chevy and by now you'll be running a new engine, new tranny and among many many more porblems. Get the picture.

 

I hesitate to call it a "car culture" here, but we have car enthusiasts by the score. Probably because we have fewer people in the middle of the country, the you will not see the large and intense "cultures" you get on the right and left coasts. But whatever it is here, I like it just fine.

 

Good stuff, justbecause.

 

please see the new thread, ty skylaw.

 

I'll add a few Mercedes specific tips:

Always ask for the VMI Report (Vehicle master inquiry). The VMI will show what options came on the car and all the service done on the car that Mercedes knows about. This includes warranty and non warranty repairs, regular service, customer requested service, and Mercedes roadside assistance calls. The current owner must request the VMI at any dealer with the VIN number and proof of ownership. If you are buying the car at a dealer they should provide this without asking. No VMI, No deal!!!

CPO warranty - If the car has a Mercedes Certified Pre Owned warranty (sometimes called Starmarked) it will have an inspection report with all corrective actions. In my case, the car had a new battery, new tires and a leather repair. No report, No Deal.

Check the service screen of the multi function display for the distance to the next service and next service type. I the next service type is within 2k miles or so, I would negotiate it into the price.

Other non Mercedes tips:
Worn tires - Check the front tires for un even wear. This can be an indication of improper alignment caused by an accident poorly repaired

Warm engine - You should hear the engine start cold. Tapping valves and knocking crankshafts can be masked by a warm start.

Missing fasteners - Missing trim fasteners can be an indication of poor accident repairs. In my case, the front bumper cover had been replaced (common on a CLK 430) and I figured this out before the purchase because a couple of nuts and plastic rivits were missing. This didn't stop me from ripping the cover off on a parking block a week after I bought the car. No reason to be scared, but does need a credible explanation from the seller.

Overspray - look under the car for overspray, an obvious sign of repair.

Insurance report - get the VIN and call your insurance agent. Minor accidents are not reported to Carfax, but you insurance agent will be able to find any claims throught the system insurance companies use to share claims data between companies.

 

Good point about using the insuarance agent to get information.I pulled a carfax on my car recently, it had massive acident repairs, over $9000.00, and guess what a clean carfax.
I know that some states are considering changing the law so that the insurance companies will compensate the owner for the diminished value on the car due to accident damage, often as much as 10 to 20% off a clean car value.However the insurance companies do not care too much for that idea.
That was a nitemare story of the justbeacause MB, dear me.