my06clk

WOW...

First i have my right rear shock sitting 5/8" lower than the other one, I'm guessing I need a shock for that, Now this.

My car purrrs like a kitten when I first start her up. After I drive a while there is a very pronounced knock knock knock at low rpms. Then it either goes away when I rev to higher rpms or it's just happening so fast I can't hear it. Either way, this has me bugged crazy!! I just hit 61K on my 04 S430.

BTW. this is not the usual "octane" knock. I can sit in my garage in park, rev to 1k to 15K and hear this annoying knock knock knock as if revs up, on revs down. I can even hear when the engine is idling. WTF!!!!! I thought about oil, or something to do with the engine heating up, but I'm just not sure..

Again, it only happens when the motor is at operating temps otherwise I never hear anything....

How weird is that.. I'm not using it much for the next few weeks, but I'm taking it to the dealer soon. I hope I get a good diagnosis... Meanwhile this to me is just another big disappointment!!! World class Engine trouble?? I guess I won't jump the gun on this till i know for sure but the thoughts going through my head right now.......Hmmmm

kenstudios

The first SIMPLE thing I would check is the oil level. Make sure your oil is clean and at normal level. I would also check the air filter to ensure it's clean and allows free flow of air. These are just checks. Get that checked out before it costs you an arm and a foot.

my06clk

Thanks Ken,

I've already eliminated the obvious... In fact, I recently did my 60K change with Mobil 1. so this is very weird, I'm going to be sooo pissed if I need to do engine work on my car. Oil was last changed around 48K. I have lot of engine experience, and this doesn't sound too good.. Not to me.. I am hoping that there is something like an Oil pump gear rattling, or something like that. But even then, having to go inside my engine will **** me off. I'm going to have to take it in because I am so close to warranty I Might be able to fight with MB for support on this one. But still,, the whole idea of this on a Mercedes car of this caliber just turns my stomach..

I'm prepared for whatever in terms of repairs, but I hope this turns out to be nothing major otherwise I just don't know how I'll feel about these cars after this.But I'm committed to being optimistic about it all. We'll see what the service dept. has to say.

This might be a good time because I'll be out of town the whole week so they can take their time and find out what the problem is.. Then I'll have a lot of time to decide what to do about it while I'm gone.

S500Sport

Mobile 1? I thought it was for AMGs, I don't think its the right oil. I was in the shop getting the DIRTY filters changed as well as the lo pro tires, and they tried to give me that $100 Mobile 1 change challenge. I looked in the back and told the guy itsfor the AMG. I didn't get it it changed. I will look in this forum to see which oil is most ideal for the S500. Expensive isn't necessarily the best. Ever since I got the Air Filters changed the car has been going smooth. 93 octane helps as well.

my06clk

S500Sport..

I've had many MB cars and they all have used Mobile 1 synthetic Oil. True it doesn't have to be Mobile 1 Brand, but it does have to be synthetic because that's what the factory uses. IF you look under the hood of your car you will see a big Sticker that says MB recommends Mobile 1. Mine has one. Most of mine have had the same sticker.

My issue has nothing to do with the Type of Oil so lets not get that confused.

Yes the dealers charge almost 10 bucks a quart for Mobile 1 Oil. That's crazy. Auto parts stores have it for half so I see your point there.

But I must emphasize to you that no matter what you think about Mobil 1, Synthetic Oils are used on Mercedes engines because of the long change intervals of 10K miles or more. Regular Oil cannot hang that long and will wear out an engine.

Regular 5W30 or 10W 30 or whatever grade Oil you use breaks down around the 3 to 5K mile range where as Synthetic Oil lasts a lot longer. PLUS MB engines hold twice as much ( 8 to 9.5 Quarts ) as other car engines.

Yes, Oil is everything. and when you do the math, if you put 20K miles on your car a year you would spend appox. $200 on 17 quarts of Oil in 2 service intervals. If you did that say to your Acura or Buick, it would cost you around $180 30 quarts and 6 service intervals. so It's not really that big of a difference price wise, but long term, you end up better off with the Synthetic.

Skylaw

Not so. According to my '05 S500 service manual, MB recommends synthetic oil and suggests a number of brands (Mobil 1, Castrol, Quaker State, Pennzoil, Kendall, Shell Helix, Valvoline SnyPower to name some). The oil filter is a fleece filter, and many availablle in parts stores won't meet specifications although NAPA auto parts says that it has the MB spec fleece filter. Your service manual should provide the viscosities for the temperature range for your driving.

ANGMED

It is fair to assume you have a collapsed or dirty engine lifter, on a very long trip when the oil temp reaches high level, the knock will be less perceptible given the lower oil viscosity. However, if the spring inside the lifter has lost its tension, the knock is constant, viscosity does not affect the spring behavior. I've had the problem on my old 126 body 500 SEL .

my06clk

Good News for me..

So my Son and I finally pinpoint this knocking noise when it was at its worse.
Turns out that it is something in the Exhaust pipes just below the front seats. Catalytic convertor failing maybe? I'm going to take a look tomorrow. This might be my opportunity to hollow them out. I think I read a poster inquiring about this on a forum somewhere..

newton22

All your pullies are doing fine?

tgood

I haven't read the replies in this thread but from what it sounds like I had the same exact problem. I noticed while in lower RPM's the car would almost "Put-Put" forward. My engine light came on as well. I just went out to my car and got the write-up...

Cost $1304.39

Engine Codes:
CODE P01030: Right 02 Sensor before TWC
CODE P2082: Left 02 Sensor Before TWC Electronical Fault.
CODE P208o: Fuel Adaptation of mixture for left bank is at limit value
CODE P2017: Fuel adaptation of right bank at limits.

*****CODE P2017 & P2051: MISFIRE #1 cylinder. *****

Ignition Coil and Wires #1 cylinder. (replace)

Remove and replace #1 cylinder coil and both ignition wires with connectors.

Took about an hour I believe? Hope that helps.

LUNATICK

$1300???

Coil $120 (plenty others on eBay): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCE...QQcmdZViewItem

Wire $25: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCE...QQcmdZViewItem

Should take you under 30 minutes to change with a screw driver, spark plug wire puller and a hex bit.

S500Sport

I must have incorrectly said what I wanted to say. Mobil 1 most likely has a contract with MB and is in it for the money by putting their name in the manual. What I meant to say was, the reverse side of the MB 1 bottle is a sticker that suggests this oil be used for AMG vehicles. What I said is that being my vehicle ISN'T AMG than it shouldn't be taking this grade of oil. I would use synthetic oil, OBVIOUSLY. I put organic into the FX not the S5. The FX performes better with organic than synthetic. So my question is pointedly addressed at compatibility mixed with performance. What oil out there is the pick for 2001 S500 (EXCEPT MOBIL 1). Sorry for the inaccurate message before.

my06clk

I guess it's just a preference as far as which brand you want. I normally choose Castrol or Mobil 1 because they usually have the best sale prices
( Smile ), and I have been using Castrol since it came out and I really like it. although it has changed over the years, but I still use it. Mobile has a synthetic that comes in a gray 4qt container that is usually pretty reasonable.

That's what I buy also.

Truthfully, and I know this night open up a big can of worms but here goes:
There is oil , and there is oil. Some guys use penzoil products, or Quaker state and do all of these sludge tests etc...

I try to get the oil out of my car as soon as it's time so all those test don't really mean anything to me. I never plan to open up my engine and hopefully it will be in the junkyard loooong before I ever need to. So, it really doesn't matter to me which brand I choose. As long as it's not a generic brand, I figure I should be alright.

I hope that answers your question.

fkong777

I think the cat is warranty til 80K miles. Call MBusa to ask. They may repair it free.

Anyways aftermarket cat converter is about $100. You dont need OEM ehaust parts if you have to pay out of pocket. All converter have to meet federal and California requirements. Its like buying different brand of drinking water.. at the end its clean and it will quench your thirst.

my06clk

You are correct Fkong777.

I contacted my SA today and he told me that they would take care of the repair under warranty. I have to wait till I return from my business trip but I was very pleased by the news I received today. I have a small list of items I will have looked at while it's there so I'm going to be okay.

I will try the OEM since there is a problem and it's free...IF it fails during the time I own the car, I will get a different Converter.

He also told me that they can resync the levels on my car out so it won't be 5/8 shorter on the right rear. This is getting better by the minute. I'll post results of the service after I get it back.

Darknessph

EHHHH it's some kind of crackling sound from under the car, isn't it?

IF SO, it's the catalytic converter, which is covered by 8years / 100k mi warranty. They replace the whole cat pipe... which is from the downpipe (after the exhaust manifold / header) to secondary cat (eliminates NOx).

In my case, it was the secondary catalytic converter that had its element separated from the housing, causing rattling sound.

If this is your case, it will progressively get worse.


Hope this one could help you.

Darknessph

oops, my bad of not fully reading the posts. Well, It's funny how much I was freaked out when I first heared that knock-knock. I first thought that it was because of the excessive engine oil level- which was just at "MAX" level on the dipstick.

I guess the engine itself is okay, but our electronics like O2 sensors, MAF sensor, ignition parts (coils & wires) are not as good as our engine.

Oh well, at least I am becomming masterful at one car...W220

LUNATICK

My rear right is also falling behind the rest by abouth 5/8s as well... what did they say to you about this "re-syncing" exactly...

newton22

I have an extremely annoying ringing rattle coming from what sounds like near the dashboard. Some have told me its a cause of the cats. Should I demand the dealer replace my cats? I have a 1999 build date, would cats still be covered?

my06clk

It sure does help.. Would have helped me sleep alot better if I had known last friday (LOL).. But it's all good. Thanks for the post.

I won't take it in till the 7th. I'll let you know what they did exactly.

Mine is not a rattle, its an annoying knocking but it's more under the car along the exhaust and getting very loud. You might not have the same problem if you just have a rattle in your dash.. But anyway your dealer could do the math and define for you if it's covered or not. I'd be careful about demanding things on a 7 year old car they might be a little more nicer if you are cool with them.

Anyone have a list of other items that are included in the 7yr/80K warranty? I know most of the emissions items are. I know Sometimes dealers forget this and charge people for stuff they shouldn't.

I almost got charged when I had my door closing issue but after he quoted me the price, I reminded him that it was still under warranty and he apologized, and they took care of it. Even though they had to order parts and by the time I returned for them to do the work I was over 50K. That's service...

my06clk

Took my car in finally.

Dealer had to order two new CATS for the knocking noises. turns out that was the problem. Both of them were shot. good God it was loud.

I also had a check engine light pop on while I was enroute. My gas pedal ( throttle sensor ) was shot so I got it replaced. $460. That solved another annoying issue I had with acceleration sometimes and my SA suspected that was the culprit when I mentioned it weeks ago so I'm glad it finally went.

Can't wait to pick her up on Saturday. should drive like new without the back pressure from the bad CATS.. and the acceleration issue resolved.

Oh BtW. they did cover the pipes under warranty. And troubleshot my TPMS problem at no extra charge...I have 61K on the car.

Now I get to return home and enjoy Mothers day weekend with a Clean quiet car to drive. Now I can return to Valet at my favorite restaurants..LOL

tedei

I just hit 63000 mi. on my 02 S430 and had the same issue not more than a week ago. I called my mechanic and he listened to it. he told me MB knows of this issue and that the catalytic converter failures are well known amongst the dealers. It is under warranty to 80K, so they replaced under warranty. This is scary how much your problem sounds like mine and how close we are in mileage.

my06clk

Amazing... BUT I'm glad I got it done.. My car feels completely different now. especially at take off and on the highway... A LOT more energy...

Gondon

So I got mine done yesterday, I was happy noise is gone ...Car is smooth..Perfromance seems smoother maybe psychological. I revved it a bit in the Service center and no rattle nothing.

I drive around 1 hr later .. did some 0-60 runs, I park my car and decided to rev wow. at 1k-2k RPM its a noise 10x worse than b4. Its 10x more consistant than the old rattle, interval is shorter and its like RRRRRR. back to the shop today, I have no clue what they did