Check the fuse block under the passenger foot well. There are 3 or so fuses molded into one fuse block. I blew mine changing the alternator and it showed similar symptoms, except the dash lights would come on. It only takes 10 minutes to check it and eliminates another possibility. If it is that fuse its only available from the dealer. Mine cost me around $150.

 

The fuses under the passenger floor can often be bought for $10-20 off ebsy or someone in Craigslist parting out a car

Unlike wear parts these are ok to buy used

 

Thanks, I will check it out. How do I access the passenger foot well? Is this in the front or rear?

 

You pull up the passenger carpet from the top , right under the dash and unscrew the metal plate , it's under the metal plate

Check out this video on YouTube:

http://youtu.be/Jb_7E-Z5D7g

 

Thanks, I will check it.

 

Real simple its ur midi fuses that are located front passengers feet

 

Thanks!

 

Check the x4/10 fuse terminal under the passenger footwell before repairing the EIS

 

Thanks for the help with the no power problem. We checked the fuse block on the passenger foot well and the little black fuse connection only read about .33. We ran an electrical wire from it to the hot point and the car powered right up. We will get a used unit from the salvage yard. Thanks again for all the input!

 

Yes mine did the same checked everything then I finally looked under the passenger side flooring where the little black box is and it looked rusted I cleaned it off and bam started right up took to dealer before lost 119.00 for them to tell me nothing!!! But look at them drag my car up onto a toe truck when these benzs have no power it will not go into neutral and role...pain in the ***....

 

My 2004 S430 has been having the same problem lately in starting. In using my keyfob, I can't get the alarm lights to blink to disarm. I have changed the batteries on the keyfob several times. After inserting the keyfob, it won't turn. It does not allow me to turn it in any direction. Sometimes I wait for the car to warm up in the sunlight and then it will blink and allow me to start the car. Is the EIS problem I have been reading about? If so, is this a dealer only service? How much does it cost on average?

Thanks for your help.

 

Yes it's the EIS. Dealer only.

 

The eis is coded to the car so you can't just buy a used one

What you can do is get a matched set of eis key shifter and ecu out of the same Junk car , some sellers on eBay have all these parts as a matched set . You'll need to change all these components If buying used

Otherwise the dealer needs to install and program new eis

 

Did anyone ever figure this out? My dash is all lit up and it will switch gears but no starting at all. Saturday night it wouldn't crank then it did. I started it one more time and then nothing but a lit up dash. The battery is good so its not that.

 

I have been trying to solve this problem for over a year. Sometimes it seemed to be worse in cold weather. Sometimes it seemed to happen when the key was carried in a confined space like in a front pants pocket. Recently, I have found that if I insert the key and leave it alone while I get everyone in and buckled up, let the steering wheel settle and the panel warn me that I need to add washer fluid (what I really need is to replace the leaking washer fluid container) before I turn the key I don't have any trouble. I broke vthis rule yesterday and sure enough, I had to try about a dozen times before it finally worked. This was the first time in the two months of this new experiment that I have had the problem. My better half didn't believe in my theory, but he is reluctantly finding it to be effective. Some other threads suggest that it is a communication issue between the key and the ignition and that it is possible to reset it by inserting the key and turning it just to the instrument panel setting. Variations in how long to leave it, what buttons to push on the key, etc., are plentiful. Maybe I am just letting them communicate by waiting-but so far, so good.

 

Haha! (Nelson Laugh)

 

LaraCarter, if both keys do the same then it is the EIS (ignition switch) and you need to have it replaced at the dealership. It wont be long before you will be stuck someplace and cant start at all. If you don't have two working keys, I would recommend to buy a spare key anyways.

 

Thank you for responding. My problem is complicated by the fact that my father was experiencing this problem sporadically, initially beginning late winter of last year and the dealership made a second copy of the key, as you suggest, reviewed everything and said there were no obvious issues remaining. Everything seemed to work fine for two or three months but by the time he dropped off the car again in late July for scheduled maintenance the problem was back with both keys, same scenario. He was away on business so it was a longer stay at the dealer than usual for the car and when when he picked the car and keys up everything seemed to be working fine, although the dealership did have to jump-start the battery, but he left with their assurance that all was well as of mid-August.

Unfortunately, in late August, my father passed away very suddenly. We were careful to use the car regularly until I took possession of it in November. Within a month I began to have the same problem but again, intermittently and apparently at random.

After I posted what seemed to be a resolution, however unorthodox, earlier this week we hit a cold and rainy snap and I am once again having to remove/ reinsert the key anywhere from 5 - 10 times until the car just seems to decide it is ready to get to work.

I am (obviously) not a car person, but my husband is and he is at a loss, as well. But collectively, based on the possible chilly weather connection, mysterious need for the dealership jump and the fact that eventually, after the key has been fully engaged and the sound of other systems firing up as they would had the ignition taken, we agree does support your suggestion that the battery may be functioning below optimum charge. Would you tend to agree or are we just making something fit that seems more plausable than the key and ignition needing a quick chat before they agree to work? With the warm weather back I am afraid I am a motorcycle seasonal widow once again so I covet your advice before I head back to the dealership again. I will have the battery, the fuses and everything checked locally, obviously, but I seem to see this same issue popping up everywhere I have looked. It does seem to me to be unusually common.

 

OMGosh you like to write a book - lol It's a bad solder joint in the EIS module that is effected by the temperature so sometimes it works and sometimes its an open circuit. Yes the key and the EIS negotiate, then drive authorization occurs.

 

I am kinda going through the same thing with my w220 S600. I possibly need to replace the EIS as my car won't start at random times. I almost have the same issue as you Lara that I need to have the steering wheel settle, I also have the windshield washer message.

I will be trying these guys to have a replacement EIS done for me.

http://paylesscarkeys.com/

They are based in NY and charge $500 for a reprogram/replace EIS matched to your EIS.

They have a video of how to take one out so you can read them the code off your EIS which they need in order to reprogram one. The dealer charges close to $900 in my area for a new EIS programmed.

 

Hi:

Just wondering if you have a chance to check this place out? I was thinking of sending in my EIS to them and I happen to come across your post. Do you recommend them? Thumps up or down?

Thanks

 

Yes I would recommend them. They were able to replicate my EIS on another one. It worked perfectly.

However, my problem ended up being the starter. So I misdiagnosed starting issue and wasted $300. Just make sure it is your EIS and not the starter.

 

Excellent point. Thanks!

 

Hi I have an S55 with simular problems. Did you ever find a solution?

 

I parked ny 2006 E350 MB. Came back minutes later to start it. Inserted fob key..ignition will not turn, interior lights not come on, no light on dash, no power supply, and car is dead.
I tried to jump start it. But when I connected the negative to negative and positive to posive I got a spark.
There is nothing I can do at this point.
No communication with icarsoft code reader.
Steering wheel is not locked.
Please help.