Just agreed to buy a W220. Couple of quick questions:
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From: B.C.
GL 320cdi, Chevrolet Avalanchero, GLE 350 (on order)
Just agreed to buy a W220. Couple of quick questions:
Hey guys, Brocktoon checking in from the GL forums.
Just agreed to buy a super mint 430 short wheelbase yesterday. Found out about it through a friend. It is a 2002, just turned 50,000km (31,000 mi). Full dealer service records based on time minimums. Brake job, tires, "B" service, brake line and tranny flush all done in the last year. Xenons, Comand, heated seats but not much else in terms of options, except for a non-standard factory paint request that the factory wound up doing, code 941U Aragonite Blue (It was offered on G class, E class, as far as I know, maybe never on any car in America). The owners still need the car for a couple of weeks, while they wait for their new S.
Car seems great, all gadgets working. I do have some concerns about cracks on top of the struts. They are currently holding air, but they have cracks. Unlike the pictures I have seen, these cracks don't go around the top of the strut, but are sort of parallel to the hose nipple, where it goes into the black plastic. The service guy who has been taking care of the car does not seem to be all that worried it would go out anytime soon, but I wanted to know what you guys thought? I'm inclined to just do the epoxy fix for now if I do anything.
Anything else I should look for? Airmatic is working, I will get the pump relay as a preventative measure. Anything else?
Just agreed to buy a super mint 430 short wheelbase yesterday. Found out about it through a friend. It is a 2002, just turned 50,000km (31,000 mi). Full dealer service records based on time minimums. Brake job, tires, "B" service, brake line and tranny flush all done in the last year. Xenons, Comand, heated seats but not much else in terms of options, except for a non-standard factory paint request that the factory wound up doing, code 941U Aragonite Blue (It was offered on G class, E class, as far as I know, maybe never on any car in America). The owners still need the car for a couple of weeks, while they wait for their new S.
Car seems great, all gadgets working. I do have some concerns about cracks on top of the struts. They are currently holding air, but they have cracks. Unlike the pictures I have seen, these cracks don't go around the top of the strut, but are sort of parallel to the hose nipple, where it goes into the black plastic. The service guy who has been taking care of the car does not seem to be all that worried it would go out anytime soon, but I wanted to know what you guys thought? I'm inclined to just do the epoxy fix for now if I do anything.
Anything else I should look for? Airmatic is working, I will get the pump relay as a preventative measure. Anything else?
Last edited by Brocktoon; Nov 26, 2011 at 11:26 AM.
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2004 CLK 500
Not sure with the cracks, but I know now that Arnotts is around strut replace is not bad at all cost wise.. As for what else to look for.. obviously check for any accidents, I usually check the oil fill cap as that will tell a story to the oil change practices of the PO. Check the fluids, check for any rust on the bottom of the doors, check the transmission, make sure it shifts correctly. Turn the air and radio off and drive the car being very quiet listening for any noises out of the ordinary.. make sure the steering/suspension feels tight. Make sure the doors all close themselves, as with the trunk. Make sure the windows all go down from each individual switch and the seats adjust as the door control modules fail in these cars. Check sunroof. The guage clusters are of troubling nature in these cars too so listen to it while it's on as mine makes a buzzing noise which tells me I will be replacing it in the next year or so.. You can also listen to the front of the engine, from outside the car or driving it as the PS pump/tensioner/idler pullies are known to cause noises too.. Also check the reed valve under the hood on the passenger side.. if it gets clogged up your car's interior can flood from a moderate rain..
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From: Long Island, NY & SE England
A Mercedes obviously!
I'm not sure where you're based (on mobile it doesn't show location) but in most places W220s are ten a penny. Why buy one, especially bare bones and an early model, if you've got concerns about it.
Low mileage is nice but you're getting yourself into a potential world of hurt with these '00-'02 W220s.
I'd suggest moving on.
Low mileage is nice but you're getting yourself into a potential world of hurt with these '00-'02 W220s.
I'd suggest moving on.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 903
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From: B.C.
GL 320cdi, Chevrolet Avalanchero, GLE 350 (on order)
cmp: Thanks for the advice. My offer is pending test-drive I have already listened to all the mechanical sounds, tested most of the electronics, just waiting for the PO to get back into town. I have all the records from a single owner, no accidents, all dealer service. I also brought my flashlight, and the reed drain bucket hardly even looks like it has ever had water in it. The owners live overseas most of the year, so it has been sitting in a garage except for the summer, and it looks it.
Fraser, Thanks for the heads up. I know what I'm getting into, I have been around exotic/high end cars most of my adult life. I live downtown, so I don't drive much either (I actually live about 5 blocks from the PO). I have been offered the car at a very fair price, which works for me. Since I don't drive that much but want a safe, heavy car for my family, my biggest cost in getting a newer car would be depreciation. For the 2-4,000 miles I will be using it in a year, a new car does not make any sense. (As the car in question is a perfect example.) Since the car has such a clean history and low miles, even if have to put a few bucks into it, I'll be ahead of the curve vs. the killer of depreciation I will feel on something newer.Even if I drive it for a few years and drop it off at a junkyard, it would cost me less that the off-the-lot depreciation of any comparable newer car.
Fraser, Thanks for the heads up. I know what I'm getting into, I have been around exotic/high end cars most of my adult life. I live downtown, so I don't drive much either (I actually live about 5 blocks from the PO). I have been offered the car at a very fair price, which works for me. Since I don't drive that much but want a safe, heavy car for my family, my biggest cost in getting a newer car would be depreciation. For the 2-4,000 miles I will be using it in a year, a new car does not make any sense. (As the car in question is a perfect example.) Since the car has such a clean history and low miles, even if have to put a few bucks into it, I'll be ahead of the curve vs. the killer of depreciation I will feel on something newer.Even if I drive it for a few years and drop it off at a junkyard, it would cost me less that the off-the-lot depreciation of any comparable newer car.
Last edited by Brocktoon; Nov 26, 2011 at 02:17 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2011
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2004 CLK 500
I'm not sure where you're based (on mobile it doesn't show location) but in most places W220s are ten a penny. Why buy one, especially bare bones and an early model, if you've got concerns about it.
Low mileage is nice but you're getting yourself into a potential world of hurt with these '00-'02 W220s.
I'd suggest moving on.
Low mileage is nice but you're getting yourself into a potential world of hurt with these '00-'02 W220s.
I'd suggest moving on.
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 960
Likes: 2
From: Long Island, NY & SE England
A Mercedes obviously!
Fraser, Thanks for the heads up. I know what I'm getting into, I have been around exotic/high end cars most of my adult life. I live downtown, so I don't drive much either (I actually live about 5 blocks from the PO). I have been offered the car at a very fair price, which works for me. Since I don't drive that much but want a safe, heavy car for my family, my biggest cost in getting
a newer car would be depreciation. For the 2-4,000 miles I will be using it in a year,
a new car does not make any sense. (As the car in question is a perfect example.) Since the car has such a clean history and low miles, even if have to put a few bucks into it, I'll be ahead of the curve vs. the killer of depreciation I will feel on something newer.Even if I drive it for a few years and drop it off
at a junkyard, it would cost me less that the off-the-lot depreciation of any comparable
newer car.
a newer car would be depreciation. For the 2-4,000 miles I will be using it in a year,
a new car does not make any sense. (As the car in question is a perfect example.) Since the car has such a clean history and low miles, even if have to put a few bucks into it, I'll be ahead of the curve vs. the killer of depreciation I will feel on something newer.Even if I drive it for a few years and drop it off
at a junkyard, it would cost me less that the off-the-lot depreciation of any comparable
newer car.
sense.
The earlier cars encounter lots of electrical gremlins out of the blue that can be costly to fix.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 903
Likes: 23
From: B.C.
GL 320cdi, Chevrolet Avalanchero, GLE 350 (on order)
Sorry, I guess I didn't make myself too clear. Based on what I've read on the forums the later W220s are much more reliable and spending a few thousand extra for an 03+ makes a lot of
sense.
The earlier cars encounter lots of electrical gremlins out of the blue that can be costly to fix.
sense.
The earlier cars encounter lots of electrical gremlins out of the blue that can be costly to fix.
