Repaired my right coil pack S600
04-16-2012, 04:22 PM
#26
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NYC
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
S600
Thanks,
So, just to confirm, the gaskets your talking about are the Red Insulator Boots. If so, yes, I was careful covering the turbo and intake holes..
The puzzle is where does the oil come from? Between the valve cover? or from the oil filler cap (if you miss filling it up)? and it drips right into the spark plug holes (first two near the oil filler)?
or
I'm just wondering if you talking about some unknown to me valve cover gasket inside the valve cover, like he had to remove the valve cover and flip it upside down to get to it..
I've got it all open right now waiting for the spark plugs, so I need to identify this "Gasket".. Preferrably, it's an actual part on parts .com or rockauto.
Thanks
So, just to confirm, the gaskets your talking about are the Red Insulator Boots. If so, yes, I was careful covering the turbo and intake holes..
The puzzle is where does the oil come from? Between the valve cover? or from the oil filler cap (if you miss filling it up)? and it drips right into the spark plug holes (first two near the oil filler)?
or
I'm just wondering if you talking about some unknown to me valve cover gasket inside the valve cover, like he had to remove the valve cover and flip it upside down to get to it..
I've got it all open right now waiting for the spark plugs, so I need to identify this "Gasket".. Preferrably, it's an actual part on parts .com or rockauto.
Thanks
http://genuinemercedesparts.com/part...gramCallOut=17
I hope that comes through.
04-16-2012, 04:29 PM
#27
Senior Member
Yes, Came through.. Thanks, that's the actual cylinder head (valve cover) gasket..
Tiny leak in that would do the trick if it fell into any of the spark plug cavity holes..
I don't see any obvious leaks, so it might be just the tiniest, tiny less then a pin hole leak..
You'd think there would be some sort of a oil spray pattern somewhere..
I'll check torque and tighten the valve cover bolts where it might have leaked..
I don't think I'm up to replacing the gasket right now, might as well, but I see no leaks..
I did see an old oil trail from the filler cap, down the side, and heading for the first two spark plug holes..
Thanks
Tiny leak in that would do the trick if it fell into any of the spark plug cavity holes..
I don't see any obvious leaks, so it might be just the tiniest, tiny less then a pin hole leak..
You'd think there would be some sort of a oil spray pattern somewhere..
I'll check torque and tighten the valve cover bolts where it might have leaked..
I don't think I'm up to replacing the gasket right now, might as well, but I see no leaks..
I did see an old oil trail from the filler cap, down the side, and heading for the first two spark plug holes..
Thanks
04-16-2012, 08:43 PM
#28
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NYC
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
S600
Yes, Came through.. Thanks, that's the actual cylinder head (valve cover) gasket..
Tiny leak in that would do the trick if it fell into any of the spark plug cavity holes..
I don't see any obvious leaks, so it might be just the tiniest, tiny less then a pin hole leak..
You'd think there would be some sort of a oil spray pattern somewhere..
I'll check torque and tighten the valve cover bolts where it might have leaked..
I don't think I'm up to replacing the gasket right now, might as well, but I see no leaks..
I did see an old oil trail from the filler cap, down the side, and heading for the first two spark plug holes..
Thanks
Tiny leak in that would do the trick if it fell into any of the spark plug cavity holes..
I don't see any obvious leaks, so it might be just the tiniest, tiny less then a pin hole leak..
You'd think there would be some sort of a oil spray pattern somewhere..
I'll check torque and tighten the valve cover bolts where it might have leaked..
I don't think I'm up to replacing the gasket right now, might as well, but I see no leaks..
I did see an old oil trail from the filler cap, down the side, and heading for the first two spark plug holes..
Thanks
Good luck, let me know how it turns out.
04-17-2012, 12:44 PM
#29
Senior Member
Depending on your mileage I would probably change the gaskets. ESP if you are DIY-ing. You won't be able to see how badly worn the gaskets are until after you take em out. Take a look at your spark plugs and see if you have any oil there. I you do it's the gaskets in all likelihood.
Good luck, let me know how it turns out.
Good luck, let me know how it turns out.
I might just do it, not to bad actually once your drain the radiator, etc.. following the WIS operation items..
I did find the valve cover bolts way below the 8Nm Torque specified.. one was quite easy at less then 5Nm.. and it was in the area where I found one coil / red insulator with a thin layer of oil..
Re-Torqued them all and will see what happens.
I've already practiced removing and installing both Coil packs now more 6 times..just to get the hand of it.
It's going to alot be easier if when I need the next set of Coils whenever that happens.
Remember to pay myself $3000.0 or whatever it cost to replace two coils packs.
05-02-2012, 08:37 PM
#30
Newbie
S600 Ignition Coil Repair - V-12 Coils for $41.
Update on the repair...after exactly one month and about 2k miles I think the right coilpack finally gave up the ghost. 
Had problems starting it this afternoon, and once it did start, it started shaking...Check engine light turned on...etc. Shut down, re-started, ran smooth. Gave her some gas and it started acting up again. Plugged in the computer and it was reading misfires in cylinders 1, 2, 3, 5. cleared the codes, restarted, and misfire in 3, 4, 5 came up. So I think it's time to get a new right coil pack.
I didn't expect my repair to last long, and it did what I wanted it to do, which was to allow me to pass emissions and buy a month or so before having to bite the bullet on yet another coilpack purchase (replaced the left one in December). It also gave me a better understanding as to the construction of the ignition coils. Bottom line: It is what it is.
Although I'm thinking with 2 new coilpacks, an ECU tune may be in order very soon.
Had problems starting it this afternoon, and once it did start, it started shaking...Check engine light turned on...etc. Shut down, re-started, ran smooth. Gave her some gas and it started acting up again. Plugged in the computer and it was reading misfires in cylinders 1, 2, 3, 5. cleared the codes, restarted, and misfire in 3, 4, 5 came up. So I think it's time to get a new right coil pack.
I didn't expect my repair to last long, and it did what I wanted it to do, which was to allow me to pass emissions and buy a month or so before having to bite the bullet on yet another coilpack purchase (replaced the left one in December). It also gave me a better understanding as to the construction of the ignition coils. Bottom line: It is what it is.
Although I'm thinking with 2 new coilpacks, an ECU tune may be in order very soon.
What is everyone's opinion on the OEM individual coils for $41. (FORTY ONE DOLLARS) ea. ? These are the actual coil that goes on top of the plug... Here is the site: .
I do understand that there is also an electronic module at the front of the pack but for $246. for all six cylinders, it's a pretty good start. (?) What is the exact name for the electronic module toward the front of the pack please? (I have a 2001 S600 Sport - stock) Thanks. Tom
06-20-2012, 05:23 AM
#31
MBWorld Fanatic!
What is everyone's opinion on the OEM individual coils for $41. (FORTY ONE DOLLARS) ea. ? These are the actual coil that goes on top of the plug... Here is the site: http://www.amazon.com/96-02-Mercedes...N%3DB003TI640A.
Nice try.
Nick
06-20-2012, 07:48 PM
#32
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thought I'd report back on an experiment which seems to have been successful (so far). My symptom was an occasional #2 cylinder misfire on my 2005 S600. Under light load, I could run it for hundreds of miles, but if I gave it anything that took her up over 4000rpm, she would start misfiring until I turned the engine off and on again. I've been dreading purchasing another $1200 coilpack (the left one completely failed a couple months ago), but my emissions test is due, so I had to remedy it sooner than later. I figured a repair attempt wouldn't hurt, as worst case would be I replace the damn thing anyway.
Fearing that removing the coilpack from the engine would definitely be the kiss of death for it, I instead cut (melted) the cover of the coil pack off with an exacto blade attachment on my soldering iron while it was still in the engine block (I tried to pry it off gently, but it was so brittle it would have broken apart). Once off and the circuit bard was exposed, I looked at the top of the #2 cylinder coils. I made the observation that on one of them (two per cylinder), the wires leading from the three terminals at the top of the rod that goes into the block to attach to the sparkplug had ALL detached from the circuit board. I regret that I completely forgot to take photos, but if you look at Howard's ongoing S600 repair post, he shows a photo of the inside of a coilpack. If you look at the "round" spots with the three wires in them, you should be able to see what I'm talking about.
The far right connection was just loose and barely touching the terminal. The center was also loose on the circuit board side. The left wire was completely missing (couldn't find it anywhere inside). So I swapped out to a fine tip on my soldering iron and went to work re-attaching all three connections. I wound up creating a new "wire" connection for the left terminal using copper braid desoldering wick. After I was confident all the connections were solid, I re-assembled everything and she runs *perfectly*! Took her out for a testdrive, did a couple hard starts from a stop, ran at higher rpm in lower gear on the highway, and created load by downshifting and engine braking (all the things that guaranteed a misfire before).
I'm really not sure how long this patch job will last (I'm not pretending it's anything but that), but if it buys me a month to get the thing emissions tested and not have to explain to the wife why I'm sinking another couple thousand dollars into my car, I'm fine with that. I figure I'll eventually need a new coilpack, but I'm pleased that it is possible to repair these things given the right type of "breakage".
Looking at the circuit board itself, it seems to me like there is very little that could go wrong with the exception of these wire connections that are easily broken if the rods on the coilpack are twisted or pulled in the wrong way. I suppose the heat could also eventually cause one to fail entirely like my left coil.
A special thanks to Howard for his work on his S600 and the photo of the inside of the coilpack. It gave me the inspiration to try this repair.
Fearing that removing the coilpack from the engine would definitely be the kiss of death for it, I instead cut (melted) the cover of the coil pack off with an exacto blade attachment on my soldering iron while it was still in the engine block (I tried to pry it off gently, but it was so brittle it would have broken apart). Once off and the circuit bard was exposed, I looked at the top of the #2 cylinder coils. I made the observation that on one of them (two per cylinder), the wires leading from the three terminals at the top of the rod that goes into the block to attach to the sparkplug had ALL detached from the circuit board. I regret that I completely forgot to take photos, but if you look at Howard's ongoing S600 repair post, he shows a photo of the inside of a coilpack. If you look at the "round" spots with the three wires in them, you should be able to see what I'm talking about.
The far right connection was just loose and barely touching the terminal. The center was also loose on the circuit board side. The left wire was completely missing (couldn't find it anywhere inside). So I swapped out to a fine tip on my soldering iron and went to work re-attaching all three connections. I wound up creating a new "wire" connection for the left terminal using copper braid desoldering wick. After I was confident all the connections were solid, I re-assembled everything and she runs *perfectly*! Took her out for a testdrive, did a couple hard starts from a stop, ran at higher rpm in lower gear on the highway, and created load by downshifting and engine braking (all the things that guaranteed a misfire before).
I'm really not sure how long this patch job will last (I'm not pretending it's anything but that), but if it buys me a month to get the thing emissions tested and not have to explain to the wife why I'm sinking another couple thousand dollars into my car, I'm fine with that. I figure I'll eventually need a new coilpack, but I'm pleased that it is possible to repair these things given the right type of "breakage".
Looking at the circuit board itself, it seems to me like there is very little that could go wrong with the exception of these wire connections that are easily broken if the rods on the coilpack are twisted or pulled in the wrong way. I suppose the heat could also eventually cause one to fail entirely like my left coil.
A special thanks to Howard for his work on his S600 and the photo of the inside of the coilpack. It gave me the inspiration to try this repair.
06-20-2012, 10:30 PM
#33
Newbie
Hi:
Yes. They are NOT anything to do with an S600. I ended up pulling a lot of the top of the enginge off to get at, and replace the driver's side Coil Pack and the Ignition Module, mounted near the center between cylinder banks. All is running well now. Sorry I got it wrong, but now I know. Thanks.
Tom
Yes. They are NOT anything to do with an S600. I ended up pulling a lot of the top of the enginge off to get at, and replace the driver's side Coil Pack and the Ignition Module, mounted near the center between cylinder banks. All is running well now. Sorry I got it wrong, but now I know. Thanks.
Tom
11-03-2013, 10:03 AM
#34
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2002 S600 v12
$ 798.00 coils
11-04-2013, 09:25 AM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NE Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 295
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
2006 CL65
Just a heads up I got mine for 750 and 800 from oriellys. The are "import direct" brand. This is the oem part with a lifetime warranty. I hade to have the "price match" but they did it without a question.
12-06-2013, 03:18 PM
#37
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mercedes benz
Hello everyone, I know its an old post, but i am out of solutions for now...
My MB has been acting up lately, 2 months ago I replaced left side coil pack, spent a fortune on it by the way. And now (lucky me) the car shows that there is a misfire on the right side (cylinder 3).
I was wondering, is it possible to just carefully remove and replace that 3rd single coil? Or I have to buy whole coil pack?
My MB has been acting up lately, 2 months ago I replaced left side coil pack, spent a fortune on it by the way. And now (lucky me) the car shows that there is a misfire on the right side (cylinder 3).
I was wondering, is it possible to just carefully remove and replace that 3rd single coil? Or I have to buy whole coil pack?
12-07-2013, 04:21 AM
#40
MBWorld Fanatic!
More than happy to stand corrected about that, Howard. That's just the sort of positive news I want to hear.
All too often in these forums you hear about how much money you have to spend to keep your big Mercedes on the road. People get the impression that they're like boats - bottomless pits that swallow up all your money and bleed you dry - that there's no cheap and easy way to do it. And being a determined S600 DIY-owner, I'm the last person to spread that attititude. A lot of people cling to after-market warranties to keep them on the road, and the repairs that they cover seem to run into $,000's every year, but I think there are better ways.
The coil pack on mine failed, and I DID buy a new one. It's been about the only substantial expense incurred on my 156k mile car, but being a tuned car, it was pretty much expected. I've heard of several instances of owners repairing coil packs, but many didn't last long. I still have my old one, so I might try to open and repair it at Xmas.
Nick
All too often in these forums you hear about how much money you have to spend to keep your big Mercedes on the road. People get the impression that they're like boats - bottomless pits that swallow up all your money and bleed you dry - that there's no cheap and easy way to do it. And being a determined S600 DIY-owner, I'm the last person to spread that attititude. A lot of people cling to after-market warranties to keep them on the road, and the repairs that they cover seem to run into $,000's every year, but I think there are better ways.
The coil pack on mine failed, and I DID buy a new one. It's been about the only substantial expense incurred on my 156k mile car, but being a tuned car, it was pretty much expected. I've heard of several instances of owners repairing coil packs, but many didn't last long. I still have my old one, so I might try to open and repair it at Xmas.
Nick
Last edited by Welwynnick; 12-08-2013 at 03:59 AM.
12-07-2013, 11:11 AM
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 46 Likes
on
29 Posts
MB 2003 S600. Volvo 2003 XC70.
tri_color,
Regarding your query about fixing coil pack: pls check my maintenance thread in my signature, in which I documented how to fix coil pack by replacing individual coil.
Yes, it is not easy, but doable, especially when you already have your old left pack which is the source of coils.
Good luck.
Howard
Regarding your query about fixing coil pack: pls check my maintenance thread in my signature, in which I documented how to fix coil pack by replacing individual coil.
Yes, it is not easy, but doable, especially when you already have your old left pack which is the source of coils.
Good luck.
Howard
12-07-2013, 07:26 PM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
Received 46 Likes
on
29 Posts
MB 2003 S600. Volvo 2003 XC70.
tri_color,
Regarding your further inquiry, please read 1 or 2 more posts after task R001 in my maintenance thread and you will find your answer as Marktan asked same questions 2 years ago.
Try to read more posts in my thread. If you own a V12, reading my posts will help you and save you thousands.
BTW, I didn't see you attach any pics.
You could post your further questions in this or your own thread so others could reference instead of using private msg.
All the best.
Howard
Regarding your further inquiry, please read 1 or 2 more posts after task R001 in my maintenance thread and you will find your answer as Marktan asked same questions 2 years ago.
Try to read more posts in my thread. If you own a V12, reading my posts will help you and save you thousands.
BTW, I didn't see you attach any pics.
You could post your further questions in this or your own thread so others could reference instead of using private msg.
All the best.
Howard
12-08-2013, 04:01 AM
#43
MBWorld Fanatic!
I'll second the need to read the whole of Howard's maintenance & repair thread - it should be compulsory reading for any W220 owner, it's that good.
Nick
Nick
12-08-2013, 05:56 AM
#44
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mercedes benz
haoz129,
Sorry, I am just not familiar with all the threads and posts, my benz is making me join forums hehe
Thanks for the info, I will give the coil packs a try once workload is done.
Since problems come in bulk order, I have a similar issue to your haoz129 "R015 Front heater is not hot enough when cold outside, bad circulation pump" Except on mine there is no airflow at all and I was wondering whether it is the circulation pump or something else?
Sorry, I am just not familiar with all the threads and posts, my benz is making me join forums hehe
Thanks for the info, I will give the coil packs a try once workload is done. Since problems come in bulk order, I have a similar issue to your haoz129 "R015 Front heater is not hot enough when cold outside, bad circulation pump" Except on mine there is no airflow at all and I was wondering whether it is the circulation pump or something else?
