2002 S500 coolant leak at Firewall
#1
2002 S500 coolant leak at Firewall
Hello
I am a new owner of a used S500 that has a coolant leak at the firewall on the driver's side. On the engine side, there is a single hose that meets a plastic connection that goes through the firewall and connects to 2 different rubber hoses on the driver's side of the firewall.
There is coolant dripping on the engine side of this fitting. I think I should replace the fitting but can't find a replacement PN or figure out how to get to it. Anyone else seen / had this problem?
Thanks
Aaron
I am a new owner of a used S500 that has a coolant leak at the firewall on the driver's side. On the engine side, there is a single hose that meets a plastic connection that goes through the firewall and connects to 2 different rubber hoses on the driver's side of the firewall.
There is coolant dripping on the engine side of this fitting. I think I should replace the fitting but can't find a replacement PN or figure out how to get to it. Anyone else seen / had this problem?
Thanks
Aaron
#2
Welcome to the forum, Aaron. It is unfortunate that your first post has to be an attempt to get some help with a problem on your recent purchase. However, if you are around long enough you will find that the forum is mostly a place for members to get assistance with issues they are having. It would be nice if more of our interactions were to relate our recent experiences with our cars and posting pics of modifications but that just isn't in the cards. These are expensive, complicated vehicles that can strain even the most optimistic owners. I don't have any experience with the issue you are having but hopefully someone will come along and give you some hope. Again, welcome,
Keith
Keith
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 37
From: North Carolina
2003 S500 - Toyota Corolla (in the rain)
Welcome to the forum Aaron. If you can take and post a picture of the problem area and point the hose out it might be much easier to get some help.
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AKA FACE (04-19-2021)
#5
Update from my post on Benzworld...http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...ide-about.html
Part number A220 832 0015
Part number A220 832 0015
#6
reviving this thread since I just have to do this recently and there is no DIY out there that tackled this problem to the point. I gathered all the information that I found and worked with what I have. First off, part number is provided in this page thru Benzworld. That hose is a PITA to get at if you have big hands. So...
1. Take the wipers off, 3 nuts, the one with the black plastic cover.
2. Take off the lower winshield/wiper splashguard/cowling/cover by working from one side to the other, slowly pulling it straight up. A plastic tool with a thin, wide flat edge is good to have so you can use it to wedge it in between the plastic and winshield. Think interior trim removal tools.
3. Unhook the connectors for the wiper motors, remove the wiper motor assembly 3 bolts on the windshield side and 1 on the firewall side.
4. Lift the wiper motor assembly up then, TADA!!! you can see those pesky clamps from the top with easy access to them. Once you took of the two clamps/hose on the firewall side. turn the stupid plastic connector up (like when you install a headlight lamp) then push towards the engine side. Then you can easily take off or manipulate the hose by the engine side.
5. Remove the connector, Replace and I changed the clamps to worm type. Reinstall everything.
Hope this fixes your leaking coolant issue.
1. Take the wipers off, 3 nuts, the one with the black plastic cover.
2. Take off the lower winshield/wiper splashguard/cowling/cover by working from one side to the other, slowly pulling it straight up. A plastic tool with a thin, wide flat edge is good to have so you can use it to wedge it in between the plastic and winshield. Think interior trim removal tools.
3. Unhook the connectors for the wiper motors, remove the wiper motor assembly 3 bolts on the windshield side and 1 on the firewall side.
4. Lift the wiper motor assembly up then, TADA!!! you can see those pesky clamps from the top with easy access to them. Once you took of the two clamps/hose on the firewall side. turn the stupid plastic connector up (like when you install a headlight lamp) then push towards the engine side. Then you can easily take off or manipulate the hose by the engine side.
5. Remove the connector, Replace and I changed the clamps to worm type. Reinstall everything.
Hope this fixes your leaking coolant issue.
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brian ruff (06-01-2024)
#7
Owe You A Beer Or Twelve SpamNRice
Thanks a gazillion for taking time to post! I filled two disposable gloves with sweat in Texas heat today trying to work clamp off behind firewall with all kinds of long pliers. Was ready to cut firewall before I read your post. Never would have thought the inlet twisted out, but of course I never would have, though should have, thought that MB would put such a cheap, failure prone part in such a hard to reach spot. Many Thanks!!!!!
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,369
Likes: 407
From: Ball Ground, GA (N of Atlanta)
2003 S500 2007 GL450
A friend just replaced this part on his 2002 S430.
The firewall was slightly distorted, keeping the fitting from rotating all the way to the designed position. This had resulted in the fitting being under constant tension from the hoses, causing failure of the fitting.
He did some minor straightening on the firewall sheet metal, which allowed the fitting to rotate enough to align with the hoses, probably preventing another failure.
The firewall was slightly distorted, keeping the fitting from rotating all the way to the designed position. This had resulted in the fitting being under constant tension from the hoses, causing failure of the fitting.
He did some minor straightening on the firewall sheet metal, which allowed the fitting to rotate enough to align with the hoses, probably preventing another failure.
#9
Update from my post on Benzworld...http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...ide-about.html
Part number A220 832 0015
Part number A220 832 0015
#12
#13
Replaced mine today. 2002 CL55 AMG W215
Tip 1: The cowl trim screws, unscrew them about 1/8" them grab some pliers and pull them out. Its like a wall anchor in a sense. I broke 2 before I figured this out. The cowl trim has a very long thing slot it goes into just under the windshield. FYI
Tip 2: Remove the air filter intake assy., you'll need to access the hose that runs behind the engine that connects to the piece your replacing.
Tip 3: The piece your replacing really isn't going thru the fire wall "per say". It's piece of sheet metal that's between the engine and the actual firewall so when your looking for it, you'll find it.
Tip 4: The spring clamp used for the hose behind the engine is nearly impossible to deal with. Once you do get it off, def get the screw type! You will chew your hands up!!
Tip 5: I used a 13mm and 15mm socket and a few extensions. Pliers, Phillips and needle nose pliers.
Tip 6: You'll need to replace 3 spring clips. 2 are almost 1" dia. fully sprung and 1 is 1/2" fully sprung meaning when you compress them to go onto the hose they will go to a larger diameter. I brought these with me and bought hose clamps slightly larger than what these were sprung.
Tip 7: The headlight reference is meaning how there are "lugs" the orientate the diameter of the bulb housing then you rotate it a little to get in to home position.
Tip 8: This is important! I had to take a saw blade and actually file down the area behind the 3 lugs because it WOULD NOT rotate when in position, there was plastic in the way under the lugs. So if it's not wanting to rotate down a little, file this area the contacts the sheet metal. I was very afraid I was gonna crack the damn thing!
Tip 1: The cowl trim screws, unscrew them about 1/8" them grab some pliers and pull them out. Its like a wall anchor in a sense. I broke 2 before I figured this out. The cowl trim has a very long thing slot it goes into just under the windshield. FYI
Tip 2: Remove the air filter intake assy., you'll need to access the hose that runs behind the engine that connects to the piece your replacing.
Tip 3: The piece your replacing really isn't going thru the fire wall "per say". It's piece of sheet metal that's between the engine and the actual firewall so when your looking for it, you'll find it.
Tip 4: The spring clamp used for the hose behind the engine is nearly impossible to deal with. Once you do get it off, def get the screw type! You will chew your hands up!!
Tip 5: I used a 13mm and 15mm socket and a few extensions. Pliers, Phillips and needle nose pliers.
Tip 6: You'll need to replace 3 spring clips. 2 are almost 1" dia. fully sprung and 1 is 1/2" fully sprung meaning when you compress them to go onto the hose they will go to a larger diameter. I brought these with me and bought hose clamps slightly larger than what these were sprung.
Tip 7: The headlight reference is meaning how there are "lugs" the orientate the diameter of the bulb housing then you rotate it a little to get in to home position.
Tip 8: This is important! I had to take a saw blade and actually file down the area behind the 3 lugs because it WOULD NOT rotate when in position, there was plastic in the way under the lugs. So if it's not wanting to rotate down a little, file this area the contacts the sheet metal. I was very afraid I was gonna crack the damn thing!
#16
Excellent post . . . personally, I took the easy route out by trimming an access panel through the wiper splashguard. I then simply snapped off the tube end on the engine side and removed that silly clamp. Used a screwdriver and hammer and snapped off the 2 tubes on the opposite side and fished the hoses around the WW gear assembly. Then removed those silly clamps. Put everthing back together with band clamps and secured the access that I cut with Black ducttape. With the hood closed, you cannot see the trimout. Took all of about 1