Or the Chinese strut might be junk...


There are reasons why most folks strongly recommend Arnott struts.

 

That's also possible. I should hold up at least one day right? I am going to epoxy the old one i think and put it back.

 

Or should i look into the valve block, it's the only part i haven't changed yet?

 

I would check out the valve block first. There are videos on rebuilding them on the bench. Either here or on youtube.

 

Thanks for the advice i did not know about that. I wanted to order one but it would take much time to arrive. Right rear also seems to low but that could be because right front rises so little. Too bad compressor is such a pain to reinstall. I do notice the compressor does not come on anymore. When i first drove the car it ran every five minutes or so.

 

If there was a way too get to know what the suspension codes mean, i wouldn't have to guess all the time. I get 6 codes but i have no idea what they mean. Is there somekind of database for the manufacturer specific codes?

 

Post your codes here and someone might be able to help you.

 

The codes i get are 132200, 132201, 132300, 132301, 151700 and 151720.

 

I can not seem to find these videos. Do you have a link?


Does anyone know what the codes i get mean?

If only both sides were this height...

 

Look at the following link. Sorry the valve block video was for a ABC Block.


http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...-please-3.html Posts 21 to 28.

 

I read that topic a few times already. It has to be the valve block. I quote from this very topic:

''How does it work? Simple. The electricity is supplied to the pump via the (hopefully!) Hella relay (pass side fuse box - US config), the relay is the first one next to the three 40 amp fuses. First fuse next to the relay is a smog pump fuse (forget about it), and the middle one is #32 that protects the Airmatic circuit. Check that first. (and yank both pieces OUT BEFORE you start working on Airmatic!!)

Once the relay sends the juice to the pump, pump comes alive. The air comes in through the black hose (that has the filter in line!), and then the air is supplied to the valve (nothing misterious there, just a "crossover" valve that directs the air to the struts that need it, based on the input from the hight sensors - three sensors on the car - two front and one in the back). If the pump is working, but not sucking, either the filter is blocked (unlikely), or the hose is kinked, or obstructed.

If all connections of the white PVC lines on the valve (and the main that goes from the pump to the valve) are holding air, the car HAS TO rise. If it doesn't, there is a leak somewhere that is not easy to detect/see. Once the air is distributed by the valve to the struts, it goes to the top of the struts and inflates the air bags inside the struts. If the pump is working, and there is no air reaching the valve, the main PVC line is kinked, broken, cracked, or obstructed.

If the air (with correct pressure!) is reaching the valve, but it's not supplied to the struts,....the valve has a problem (electrical connections damaged, dirty, not connected, or valve itself going bad). If the valve is doing its job, and the struts are not being inflated,......struts have a LEAK (a big one!!).''


So the valve is not doing his job because the strut does not lift anymore. I'll go ahead and buy a good used one.

 

Parts have been ordered. Wheel speed sensor right front which i hope fixes the esp warning, valve block and coolant resevoir with sensor for the coolant warning to go away. I feel i'm getting somewhere!

 

I changed the coolant expansion reservoir today and the sensor but to my suprise the coolant low light did not go away. I also noticed that washer fluid is on while the reservoir is full. Are these also symptons of bad SAM?

 

I changed the sams today and the error messages for coolant and washer did not go away. I found that i should look for the fan control unit now. Wheel spped sensor also arrived so i'llbe changing that one tomorrow as well to see if the esp warnings go away.

 

BIG Update!!! Ride height sensor had come loose, i did not even change the valve block all i did was put the height sensor arm back in place and reconnect the wheel speed sensor e voila, car lifted. ABS, BAS and ESP message are gone now! Airmatic message does still come up and the compressor goes on everytime i accelerate. So i suppose there is a leak somewhere in the air suspension. I will do soapy water test again but first i'm going to wait and see if the car drops while standing.

I also need to flush the coolant and to find out why the coolant warning does not go away. I feel like i'm almost there.

 

Nice work rik

 

Thanks man!

 

Washer fluid pump nipple broke, so the washer fluid warning should go away once i change that, but the coolant warning is what is bothering me most. I have flushed the coolant and the fan goes on normally it seems. I just don't know why i keep getting the coolant low message. It's a little scaring to see the coolant low message. What else can cause the coolant low message to come on?

 

If your coolant is full I wouldn't worry about it

 

The washer fluid pump was the culprit. When i changed it both coolant and washer fluid messages went away. Only message i get is the annoying airmatic message. Compressor makes a lot of noise and runs a lot. I have received another valve block and compressor which i need to install when i find some time I need to seal the top of the chinese strut because it is already leaking, can't say that i wasn't warned about that. I have done 500 miles by now, all city traffic and the car drives very nice. Lots of power very quiet, besides the compressor.

Does anybody know if the CL500 2002 uses the same brake pads?

Last question, when turning steering wheel right i feel something clicking since a few days. Is this the underarm balljoint? I think i recall reading somewhere that when the car sits too low for a long time these might get damaged.

 

rik881, You may be able to turn those worn out shocks into cash or replacements for the Chinese shocks you bought. Call Arnott, because they are always looking for cores to rebuild.

 

Shipping shocks to Arnott would cost more then the core they offer. I'm in South America. I am going to try to epoxy.

 

I have changed the strut for a cheap used one and my car stopped dropping, the compressor is also quiet now. I have been driving it for a few months now. Loving the car every minute! Thanks for all the help, i could not have done all this without all the great advice i got here!!!

 

So happy you got this car fixed !! What was the total costs and list of everything it needed?

 

I bought some stuff i never needed and a shock that did not work, but i didn't spend very much i think.

I bought a crankshaft sensor, 4 new tires, left and right sam, brake pads front and rear, 2 used rear shocks and a used front shock, compressor and valve block both used, a washer fluid pump, a used ecu, a fuel pump and filter, a heater hose connector and a coolant expansion reservoir and lid. May be i forgot a few small parts but i spent less then 3000 i guess.

I have a lot of cars but none drives like my Benz, i really love it!