Help, did I just ruin my engine?
#1
Help, did I just ruin my engine?
Hey guys. So a few months ago, the coil pack for the passenger side went bad on my S600. I didn't have any money at the time to repair it because I was repairing my other car (these damn German cars...) and I needed a mode of transportation for that whole month until I got my next paycheck to fix the coil pack issue. So I drove the car with only half the engine running for over a month and the car was always emitting this burnt smell, almost like the engine is being burnt out. I'm really worried about this, what is the source of the burnt smell? What else do I have to look out for after the coil pack issue is fixed? And the most important question of all, what am I damaging by driving this car with only half the engine working? Any help or advice is appreciated, thanks guys.
#2
You might have ruined the catalyst
Luckily an aftermarket is cheaper than the outrageous oem costs
It's doubtful you ruined the engine . If the cylinders weren't firing they were just moving up and down with no explosion from the spark
Luckily an aftermarket is cheaper than the outrageous oem costs
It's doubtful you ruined the engine . If the cylinders weren't firing they were just moving up and down with no explosion from the spark
#3
Oh what a relief, I thought I had to do an engine rebuild.... And as for these cars, the coil packs are good for how many miles? I'm not sure if these were the original ones from the factory or if they were replaced sometime in it's lifespan. The car has 97k miles.
#4
The coils have a very high failure rate on these cars, some last 50k miles or less.
Get your replacement from auto zone or OReilly as they have a lifetime warranty
Autozone sometimes has 20-30% off coupons
Get your replacement from auto zone or OReilly as they have a lifetime warranty
Autozone sometimes has 20-30% off coupons
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,369
Likes: 407
From: Ball Ground, GA (N of Atlanta)
2003 S500 2007 GL450
A comment about "lifetime warranties"...
A "Lifetime Warranty" or "Unlimited Lifetime Warranty" means that the item will be replaced as many times as it fails.
A "Limited Lifetime Warranty" means that it will be replaced ONCE and only once if/when it fails, with no time or mileage limitation before that replacement. Most of the items from the auto parts chains have Limited Lifetime Warranties, and will be replaced only once.
Just be sure that you understand the differences in the offered warranties!
A "Lifetime Warranty" or "Unlimited Lifetime Warranty" means that the item will be replaced as many times as it fails.
A "Limited Lifetime Warranty" means that it will be replaced ONCE and only once if/when it fails, with no time or mileage limitation before that replacement. Most of the items from the auto parts chains have Limited Lifetime Warranties, and will be replaced only once.
Just be sure that you understand the differences in the offered warranties!
#7
You are a wild man - I got to ask, how did your V12 drive on 6 cylinders? Seriously, a whole month? No way, really? How was it at 60 or 80? could it do 60 or 80? Honestly, I cannot see how you could have harmed the engine. If fuel injectors are operational when the ignition is out (I don't know) then just change your oil, or to be sure do so. God bless America - no money but rolling in an S600, how sweet is that!
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#8
You are a wild man - I got to ask, how did your V12 drive on 6 cylinders? Seriously, a whole month? No way, really? How was it at 60 or 80? could it do 60 or 80? Honestly, I cannot see how you could have harmed the engine. If fuel injectors are operational when the ignition is out (I don't know) then just change your oil, or to be sure do so. God bless America - no money but rolling in an S600, how sweet is that!
OH and fixed that for you: " God bless America - no money but rolling in an S600 running on half its cylinders , how sweet is that!"
#10
They actually can run smooth on only six cylinders due to the inherent balance of an inline 6. It's like he had a 250hp inline 6 instead of a 500hp v12
He may have fouled the spark plugs too but I'd run it a while before deciding to change them to see if it really needs it. But yes change the oil as there may be raw fuel in it !!
He may have fouled the spark plugs too but I'd run it a while before deciding to change them to see if it really needs it. But yes change the oil as there may be raw fuel in it !!
#11
I didn't bother driving it on the freeway, so I was always going below 60 when I was driving the thing. And yes, I did drive it for a whole month but I always noticed the "burnt" smell while driving. I still have no idea what the source of the smell is, but if all of you say I did no damage to the engine then I shouldn't worry about it.
#12
My guess is The burned smell can be the raw gas that wasn't burned in the engine being burned in the catalytic converter
It's possible one turbo may also be a source of the smell. A turbo uses exhaust gas to spin , if you had no exhaust gas on one half to spin it, it may have stayed stationary and burned the oil inside it.
Now I don't know if the turbo lubrication is dependent on the oil pump , or the exhaust gas for circulation . If it's the oil pump you are ok. If the exhaust is required to spin the turbo and circulate the oil you might have damaged the turbo . Someone with better knowledge of the turbo may be ableto chime in
It's possible one turbo may also be a source of the smell. A turbo uses exhaust gas to spin , if you had no exhaust gas on one half to spin it, it may have stayed stationary and burned the oil inside it.
Now I don't know if the turbo lubrication is dependent on the oil pump , or the exhaust gas for circulation . If it's the oil pump you are ok. If the exhaust is required to spin the turbo and circulate the oil you might have damaged the turbo . Someone with better knowledge of the turbo may be ableto chime in
Last edited by tusabes; 06-23-2015 at 08:53 PM.
#13
My guess is The burned smell can be the raw gas that wasn't burned in the engine being burned in the catalytic converter
It's possible one turbo may also be a source of the smell. A turbo uses exhaust gas to spin , if you had no exhaust gas on one half to spin it, it may have stayed stationary and burned the oil inside it.
Now I don't know if the turbo lubrication is dependent on the oil pump , or the exhaust gas for circulation . If it's the oil pump you are ok. If the exhaust is required to spin the turbo and circulate the oil you might have damaged the turbo . Someone with better knowledge of the turbo may be ableto chime in
It's possible one turbo may also be a source of the smell. A turbo uses exhaust gas to spin , if you had no exhaust gas on one half to spin it, it may have stayed stationary and burned the oil inside it.
Now I don't know if the turbo lubrication is dependent on the oil pump , or the exhaust gas for circulation . If it's the oil pump you are ok. If the exhaust is required to spin the turbo and circulate the oil you might have damaged the turbo . Someone with better knowledge of the turbo may be ableto chime in
#16
I regret to say that I have direct experience with S600 turbos last year, and I think there's a chance of a problem.
Engine oil is pumped into the top of the turbo to lubricate and cool the two journal bearings and the thrust washer. Its pumped through small tubes, about 2mm diameter IIRC. It then drains into a large chamber at the bottom of the turbo.
Its important to the longevity of the turbo that the oil supply is maintained at all times, and also that oil does not travel rearwards beyong the centre housing and into the turbine housing. If it does that, the oil will be burnt, and will choke the oil drain and the output seal. Ironically, that will stop the seal from sealing, and oil will get past into the turbine and the exhaust.
This is because there is no conventional seal - its just a thrower ring. Therefore it depends on the centrifugal force from the spinning shaft to throw the oil off, and into the drain. Without that, it would continue to travel along the shaft and onto the turbine.
Now, there are two particular scenarios here. Firstly, if one bank is not firing, it will still be pumping air. There will be less gas than if it's firing, and I guess that its enough air to keep the turbine spinning fast enough for the oil thrower to be efficient.
Secondly, even if it wasn't spinning fast enough, the pumping air won't be hot, at least not hot enough to burn the oil.
Therefore I wouldn't assume the worst, and I think you're probably OK (but I must admit I wouldn't have driven a car with such a fault).
Good Luck, Nick
Engine oil is pumped into the top of the turbo to lubricate and cool the two journal bearings and the thrust washer. Its pumped through small tubes, about 2mm diameter IIRC. It then drains into a large chamber at the bottom of the turbo.
Its important to the longevity of the turbo that the oil supply is maintained at all times, and also that oil does not travel rearwards beyong the centre housing and into the turbine housing. If it does that, the oil will be burnt, and will choke the oil drain and the output seal. Ironically, that will stop the seal from sealing, and oil will get past into the turbine and the exhaust.
This is because there is no conventional seal - its just a thrower ring. Therefore it depends on the centrifugal force from the spinning shaft to throw the oil off, and into the drain. Without that, it would continue to travel along the shaft and onto the turbine.
Now, there are two particular scenarios here. Firstly, if one bank is not firing, it will still be pumping air. There will be less gas than if it's firing, and I guess that its enough air to keep the turbine spinning fast enough for the oil thrower to be efficient.
Secondly, even if it wasn't spinning fast enough, the pumping air won't be hot, at least not hot enough to burn the oil.
Therefore I wouldn't assume the worst, and I think you're probably OK (but I must admit I wouldn't have driven a car with such a fault).
Good Luck, Nick
#18
I regret to say that I have direct experience with S600 turbos last year, and I think there's a chance of a problem.
Engine oil is pumped into the top of the turbo to lubricate and cool the two journal bearings and the thrust washer. Its pumped through small tubes, about 2mm diameter IIRC. It then drains into a large chamber at the bottom of the turbo.
Its important to the longevity of the turbo that the oil supply is maintained at all times, and also that oil does not travel rearwards beyong the centre housing and into the turbine housing. If it does that, the oil will be burnt, and will choke the oil drain and the output seal. Ironically, that will stop the seal from sealing, and oil will get past into the turbine and the exhaust.
This is because there is no conventional seal - its just a thrower ring. Therefore it depends on the centrifugal force from the spinning shaft to throw the oil off, and into the drain. Without that, it would continue to travel along the shaft and onto the turbine.
Now, there are two particular scenarios here. Firstly, if one bank is not firing, it will still be pumping air. There will be less gas than if it's firing, and I guess that its enough air to keep the turbine spinning fast enough for the oil thrower to be efficient.
Secondly, even if it wasn't spinning fast enough, the pumping air won't be hot, at least not hot enough to burn the oil.
Therefore I wouldn't assume the worst, and I think you're probably OK (but I must admit I wouldn't have driven a car with such a fault).
Good Luck, Nick
Engine oil is pumped into the top of the turbo to lubricate and cool the two journal bearings and the thrust washer. Its pumped through small tubes, about 2mm diameter IIRC. It then drains into a large chamber at the bottom of the turbo.
Its important to the longevity of the turbo that the oil supply is maintained at all times, and also that oil does not travel rearwards beyong the centre housing and into the turbine housing. If it does that, the oil will be burnt, and will choke the oil drain and the output seal. Ironically, that will stop the seal from sealing, and oil will get past into the turbine and the exhaust.
This is because there is no conventional seal - its just a thrower ring. Therefore it depends on the centrifugal force from the spinning shaft to throw the oil off, and into the drain. Without that, it would continue to travel along the shaft and onto the turbine.
Now, there are two particular scenarios here. Firstly, if one bank is not firing, it will still be pumping air. There will be less gas than if it's firing, and I guess that its enough air to keep the turbine spinning fast enough for the oil thrower to be efficient.
Secondly, even if it wasn't spinning fast enough, the pumping air won't be hot, at least not hot enough to burn the oil.
Therefore I wouldn't assume the worst, and I think you're probably OK (but I must admit I wouldn't have driven a car with such a fault).
Good Luck, Nick
#19
The real risk of continuing to drive a car with cylinders that aren't firing is that you will wash down the cylinder walls with unburned gasoline. This will cause rapid wear and the extra gasoline will end up in the oil, diluting it and impairing its ability to lubricate. This lack of lubrication can damage the engine and the turbos!
I can see limping the car for a few miles to get home but I would never daily drive one in that condition.
I can see limping the car for a few miles to get home but I would never daily drive one in that condition.
#20
i pulled out one coil pack cable to see how it will be and that vibration was really disturbing. How did you calm down the passengers with the half of the cylinders were not firing. i would check the engine mounts for early aging.
#21
The real risk of continuing to drive a car with cylinders that aren't firing is that you will wash down the cylinder walls with unburned gasoline. This will cause rapid wear and the extra gasoline will end up in the oil, diluting it and impairing its ability to lubricate. This lack of lubrication can damage the engine and the turbos!
I can see limping the car for a few miles to get home but I would never daily drive one in that condition.
I can see limping the car for a few miles to get home but I would never daily drive one in that condition.
#24
Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 150
Likes: 1
W204 C63 Bone Stock; E36 M3 Supercharged 400WHP; X5 parts eater
A comment about "lifetime warranties"...
A "Lifetime Warranty" or "Unlimited Lifetime Warranty" means that the item will be replaced as many times as it fails.
A "Limited Lifetime Warranty" means that it will be replaced ONCE and only once if/when it fails, with no time or mileage limitation before that replacement. Most of the items from the auto parts chains have Limited Lifetime Warranties, and will be replaced only once.
Just be sure that you understand the differences in the offered warranties!
A "Lifetime Warranty" or "Unlimited Lifetime Warranty" means that the item will be replaced as many times as it fails.
A "Limited Lifetime Warranty" means that it will be replaced ONCE and only once if/when it fails, with no time or mileage limitation before that replacement. Most of the items from the auto parts chains have Limited Lifetime Warranties, and will be replaced only once.
Just be sure that you understand the differences in the offered warranties!
For Oreilly... they keep giving you a new part. I bought a set of coils for a cadillac and has had them replace it three times for free.
Here is the warranty wording:
"If a Product is replaced under this warranty (Defective Product), a replacement Product will be covered until you sell or otherwise transfer ownership of your vehicle that had the Defective Product, if you install or use the replacement Product on another vehicle, or if you use the part in a manner other than in the way the manufacturer had intended."
#25
Actually, what really happened was that I replaced the passenger side coil a few months ago (the first week it went bad), and the car still gave the same problem. I, as well as my mechanic, thought the other side went bad at the same time and we just assumed it was the driver's side coil that needed replacing now. So I drove the car for a few months thinking the driver side coil went bad after replacing the passenger side. However, I recently went back to my mechanic to get the other side fixed to only find out that what really happened was the new coil I put in was defective and I've been driving with a bad passenger side coil this whole time without knowing, with nothing being wrong with my driver side coil. So I ended up going back to my mechanic and he said he'll replace it for free. It's currently at the shop right now, I'll update you when anything happens. I feel really guilty for driving the car for so long with this issue when I could've easily just went the next day and got it fixed for free, but how was I supposed to know the new coil was defective. It sort of is my mechanic's fault for not actually running the computer on my car after the new coil was installed to find out it was just a defective part.
Last edited by AlexMercedes; 07-17-2015 at 11:30 PM.