Lowering link/ module question
#1
Lowering link/ module question
so I know there are tons of thread on this subject but none really answer my question or either I have failed hard at searching lol .
I am about to order some Ghost lowering links, How low are you guys going (inches, mm) to the point the "visit workshop" alert comes up.
I know ton of you are against riding stupid low, but thats what im going for.
I know it will wear my airmatic struts to disaster faster, but its just a simple solution till I order airrex suspension and add accuair (I know not everybody's taste).
Now lowering link and module, does it kill my battery I read somewhere that the module is always on, can I delete the Automatic speed lowering at speeds?
Can it be done on STAR to delete the automatic lowering if I am just on links?
thanks you,
I am about to order some Ghost lowering links, How low are you guys going (inches, mm) to the point the "visit workshop" alert comes up.
I know ton of you are against riding stupid low, but thats what im going for.
I know it will wear my airmatic struts to disaster faster, but its just a simple solution till I order airrex suspension and add accuair (I know not everybody's taste).
Now lowering link and module, does it kill my battery I read somewhere that the module is always on, can I delete the Automatic speed lowering at speeds?
Can it be done on STAR to delete the automatic lowering if I am just on links?
thanks you,
#2
Senior Member
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...ml#post6478467
http://m.ebay.com/itm/310406268658?_mwBanner=1
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...-drop-car.html
Enjoy and do it!
http://m.ebay.com/itm/310406268658?_mwBanner=1
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...-drop-car.html
Enjoy and do it!
#5
This what you want
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...uspension.html
A fully adjustable control and uses oem parts so it will ride better than any aftermarket air setup
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...uspension.html
A fully adjustable control and uses oem parts so it will ride better than any aftermarket air setup
#6
I saw that thread where he made that aftermarket box for the suspension, I looks promising but not much information.
The only reason Im going Airrex and accuair bc Airrex is a coilover air bag set up and accuair just suits my lazy needs on raising the car up and down lol
The only reason I willing to spend on lowering links right now bc well... Im not a fan of the 4x4 look lol. and if i decide to get a module it would be the one from loweringmodule.com bc of the price. Renntech is nice but not $1k+ nice since im going to just take that out later on and replace it with aftermarket suspension. So lowering links would work. Im just concern that if I hit a certain speed riding too low it will lower it self more on the highway and scrape like a MF. Thats why im asking what is the lowest some of you guys are running to kinda give me an idea how low i can go with out getting a warning light or scrapin the hell out of my inner fenders by self lowering
I am on airmatic
I stay away from ebay lol
The only reason Im going Airrex and accuair bc Airrex is a coilover air bag set up and accuair just suits my lazy needs on raising the car up and down lol
The only reason I willing to spend on lowering links right now bc well... Im not a fan of the 4x4 look lol. and if i decide to get a module it would be the one from loweringmodule.com bc of the price. Renntech is nice but not $1k+ nice since im going to just take that out later on and replace it with aftermarket suspension. So lowering links would work. Im just concern that if I hit a certain speed riding too low it will lower it self more on the highway and scrape like a MF. Thats why im asking what is the lowest some of you guys are running to kinda give me an idea how low i can go with out getting a warning light or scrapin the hell out of my inner fenders by self lowering
I am on airmatic
I stay away from ebay lol
Last edited by IDFWU; 07-04-2015 at 03:25 PM.
#7
Does airrex have a coil over setup for the w220? I thought there are no air systems that specifically fit a w220 it's always custom fabrication which rides terrible compAred to stock
I think the best setup is a stock setup you can control manually
I think the best setup is a stock setup you can control manually
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#8
Senior Member
Ebay is not that bad haha. The links are a simple 2-3mm thick metal rod, 3" long, threaded. with one ball joint at each end which carries NO LOAD.
A caveman can go to home dpot and make a set of links.
Im about a finger thickness height from the top of the tire to the fender at all four corners. Drives like stock, doesnt scrape at all, but I avoid any and all bumps and dips in the road!
A caveman can go to home dpot and make a set of links.
Im about a finger thickness height from the top of the tire to the fender at all four corners. Drives like stock, doesnt scrape at all, but I avoid any and all bumps and dips in the road!
Last edited by VMAX7; 07-04-2015 at 04:57 PM.
#10
Airrex does have a kit for our cars, they jsut raised the prices it was $2800 before now its around $3000 for just the bags/coilovers + another $3000 for airrex management system, or accuair for around $2500
Ive seen a few kits out there for the w220 same with coilovers
Ebay is not that bad haha. The links are a simple 2-3mm thick metal rod, 3" long, threaded. with one ball joint at each end which carries NO LOAD.
A caveman can go to home dpot and make a set of links.
Im about a finger thickness height from the top of the tire to the fender at all four corners. Drives like stock, doesnt scrape at all, but I avoid any and all bumps and dips in the road!
A caveman can go to home dpot and make a set of links.
Im about a finger thickness height from the top of the tire to the fender at all four corners. Drives like stock, doesnt scrape at all, but I avoid any and all bumps and dips in the road!
#11
You can just use washers to lower instead of links
Costs 75 cents. See thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...-drop-car.html
Costs 75 cents. See thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...-drop-car.html
Last edited by tusabes; 07-04-2015 at 05:58 PM.
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
Well the visit workshop message is when the sensors are too low. Since you are fooling the sensors into thinking that the 2" drop is the "normal" height with links, it won't give the workshop message. ABC cars have a separate travel sensor on the strut but I don't believe an air-matic car does, so it doesn't know the trim height has been adjusted when you just change links because it has no other way to see it.
#14
Well the visit workshop message is when the sensors are too low. Since you are fooling the sensors into thinking that the 2" drop is the "normal" height with links, it won't give the workshop message. ABC cars have a separate travel sensor on the strut but I don't believe an air-matic car does, so it doesn't know the trim height has been adjusted when you just change links because it has no other way to see it.
last question !!
so say im lowered that much, I have people in the back do the sensors put the height at what I have it at or will it sag? Also you guys that are lowered to you keep it in comfort, sport 1 or sport 2? I usually ride in sport 2 not sure why I guess I just miss having a race car but even then its really smooth lol
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
It will still compensate for weight, as it will go down a little more so it will pump back up to whatever it's supposed to be at. It still sees how much it's moving around, it just doesn't know that it's "zero" point is different than factory.
#17
Senior Member
so I know there are tons of thread on this subject but none really answer my question or either I have failed hard at searching lol .
I'll put in my 2 cents with my airmatic experiences (***)...
I am about to order some Ghost lowering links, How low are you guys going (inches, mm) to the point the "visit workshop" alert comes up.
I know ton of you are against riding stupid low, but thats what im going for.
*** Errors will not show up if you are "stupid low", make sure your links are adjusted to even lengths to each other. The stock rear link is slotted and adjustable. you can play around with that before you get aftermarket links.
I know it will wear my airmatic struts to disaster faster, but its just a simple solution till I order airrex suspension and add accuair (I know not everybody's taste).
*** Yes probably... But the airmatic strut is most robust than you would think as long as you starting with ones in good condition. For a stock airstrut, the range of adjustment is very wide. It will raise many inches above stock ride height and when deflated, the fenders can cover the entire sidewalls. It should be noted that each strut has an internal bump stop, which you will be riding on if you are "stupid low" The aftermarket systems seem to be popular among other brand enthusiast, if either make a full replacement for the W220, that might make for an interesting swap as long as everything can either eliminate or integrate with the airmatic computer.
Now lowering link and module, does it kill my battery I read somewhere that the module is always on, can I delete the Automatic speed lowering at speeds?
*** As you shorten the links, your car will go lower as the it is trying to compensate to keep the height sensor at the designated angle. I supposes if you make the links so short that they somehow bind and damage the height sensor, then your might get strange effect where the suspension cannot adjust, but never heard of anything like that.
*** Auto speed lowering - if you are going to be riding the bumpstops, then it won't matter.
Can it be done on STAR to delete the automatic lowering if I am just on links?
*** Not sure, everything I've done with my airmatic was to work with it, not to change it.
thanks you,
I'll put in my 2 cents with my airmatic experiences (***)...
I am about to order some Ghost lowering links, How low are you guys going (inches, mm) to the point the "visit workshop" alert comes up.
I know ton of you are against riding stupid low, but thats what im going for.
*** Errors will not show up if you are "stupid low", make sure your links are adjusted to even lengths to each other. The stock rear link is slotted and adjustable. you can play around with that before you get aftermarket links.
I know it will wear my airmatic struts to disaster faster, but its just a simple solution till I order airrex suspension and add accuair (I know not everybody's taste).
*** Yes probably... But the airmatic strut is most robust than you would think as long as you starting with ones in good condition. For a stock airstrut, the range of adjustment is very wide. It will raise many inches above stock ride height and when deflated, the fenders can cover the entire sidewalls. It should be noted that each strut has an internal bump stop, which you will be riding on if you are "stupid low" The aftermarket systems seem to be popular among other brand enthusiast, if either make a full replacement for the W220, that might make for an interesting swap as long as everything can either eliminate or integrate with the airmatic computer.
Now lowering link and module, does it kill my battery I read somewhere that the module is always on, can I delete the Automatic speed lowering at speeds?
*** As you shorten the links, your car will go lower as the it is trying to compensate to keep the height sensor at the designated angle. I supposes if you make the links so short that they somehow bind and damage the height sensor, then your might get strange effect where the suspension cannot adjust, but never heard of anything like that.
*** Auto speed lowering - if you are going to be riding the bumpstops, then it won't matter.
Can it be done on STAR to delete the automatic lowering if I am just on links?
*** Not sure, everything I've done with my airmatic was to work with it, not to change it.
thanks you,
There seems to be some negative camber built in at stock ride height, at least for my car. Going down 2-3 inches increased my camber to about -4 or -5 degrees. I used the MBZ camber adjustment bolts only on the control arms (some say to do both control and thrust arms) and corrected the toe and the front tires last 2 times longer than the rears. I did not do the rear camber correction, but may do so. The front camber bolts reduced my negative camber to -2 degrees lowered at about 3".