Car has lost its power
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...l#post10079385
And try the various resets. May need a star DAS reset
Climate controll off,doors closed,radio off.Turn key to on position(not start) just to the position that all the lights are lit up on the dash.Press your foot to the gas pedal to the floor.(the reason you don't want it running)Hold for 10-20 seconds,turn key off with foot still on the floor,now slowly lift off the pedal and sit for two minutes before removing the key and exiting the car.
Longer version
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...our-22-6x.html
Climate controll off,doors closed,radio off.Turn key to on position(not start) just to the position that all the lights are lit up on the dash.Press your foot to the gas pedal to the floor.(the reason you don't want it running)Hold for 10-20 seconds,turn key off with foot still on the floor,now slowly lift off the pedal and sit for two minutes before removing the key and exiting the car.
Longer version
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...our-22-6x.html
I've also heard it could be the boost pressure sensor and/or map sensor, but my mechanic already changed out the map sensor at the time the car got its misfiring issue fixed. I'm not sure about the boost pressure sensor though.
Trending Topics
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Also there may be a way to test cylinders with the engine software.... On the mustang, there was a test mode called "cylinder balance test" where the computer would cut fuel to each cylinder in turn and measure the rpm drop. If a cylinder was an outlier it would trigger a code and tell you the weak cylinder (less rpm drop than the others)
Maybe someone with more computer experience might chime in on this.... compression test would be old school way of troubleshooting the problem... Hopefully will be something simple though.
Also there may be a way to test cylinders with the engine software.... On the mustang, there was a test mode called "cylinder balance test" where the computer would cut fuel to each cylinder in turn and measure the rpm drop. If a cylinder was an outlier it would trigger a code and tell you the weak cylinder (less rpm drop than the others)
Maybe someone with more computer experience might chime in on this.... compression test would be old school way of troubleshooting the problem... Hopefully will be something simple though.
I still think it's your catalytic converters and whatever shop checked them did not check all of them thoroughly , and did not physically disconnect them to see how it ran wide open
You were throwing a lot of raw unburned fuel when only half your cylinders were firing , and as we noted in your prior thread , while it likely didn't do engine damage , there's a high probability you damaged your cats or your turbos
Last edited by tusabes; Sep 15, 2015 at 05:09 AM.
I still think it's your catalytic converters and whatever shop checked them did not check all of them thoroughly , and did not physically disconnect them to see how it ran wide open
You were throwing a lot of raw unburned fuel when only half your cylinders were firing , and as we noted in your prior thread , while it likely didn't do engine damage , there's a high probability you damaged your cats or your turbos
I still think it's your catalytic converters and whatever shop checked them did not check all of them thoroughly , and did not physically disconnect them to see how it ran wide open
You were throwing a lot of raw unburned fuel when only half your cylinders were firing , and as we noted in your prior thread , while it likely didn't do engine damage , there's a high probability you damaged your cats or your turbos






