oil sludge?
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
C230 Kompy, 2005 S500
oil sludge?
Hello Again,
Went about changing the oil in my S5oo today, When I bought it about a month ago the selling dealer told me the car had been serviced as the service interval had been reset. This morning as I was vacuuming out my car I saw a wonder full penzoil change sticker under the driver seat. So it bothered me that it was not mobile 1. So I changed it myself and the oil came out black as night. I also notice there was what seemed to be a lot of sludge at the fill neck a top of the motor. Is this normal? This S500 has about 80k miles on it and most of it looks to be city driving. After I changed it I noticed a big difference in response.
Is there anything I can do to prevent sludge or remove sludge? I want to change it again in about 4500 miles before going to regular 7500 miles intervals.
Another quick question, I have been reading a lot about flushing the coolant as I see some corosion on the overflow tank. Is this normal? Or will I be doing any harm in changing it sooner. I plan on a doing a 2600 mile round trip in her come Jan, and I dont want to over heat as I make the Texas Desert a cake walk.
Went about changing the oil in my S5oo today, When I bought it about a month ago the selling dealer told me the car had been serviced as the service interval had been reset. This morning as I was vacuuming out my car I saw a wonder full penzoil change sticker under the driver seat. So it bothered me that it was not mobile 1. So I changed it myself and the oil came out black as night. I also notice there was what seemed to be a lot of sludge at the fill neck a top of the motor. Is this normal? This S500 has about 80k miles on it and most of it looks to be city driving. After I changed it I noticed a big difference in response.
Is there anything I can do to prevent sludge or remove sludge? I want to change it again in about 4500 miles before going to regular 7500 miles intervals.
Another quick question, I have been reading a lot about flushing the coolant as I see some corosion on the overflow tank. Is this normal? Or will I be doing any harm in changing it sooner. I plan on a doing a 2600 mile round trip in her come Jan, and I dont want to over heat as I make the Texas Desert a cake walk.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,151
Likes: 533
Mercedes
If the dealer wasn't an official Mercedes dealership they likely used the wrong oil or lied about changing it at all . Most used car dealers just press the reset button and say it was serviced
Yes you can change the oil and coolant early and make sure to use correct fluids
Yes you can change the oil and coolant early and make sure to use correct fluids
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 282
Likes: 66
From: Virginia Beach
2005 S600 2005 SL600
Briefly, combustion creates oxides of nitrogen, that when combined with water in the crankcase, form acids. Oils have additives that neutralize those acids. When the additive is depleted, those acids combine with the oil to form sludge.
So, the MB 229.5 standard for oil has rigorous additive requirements. An oil meeting that standard will last a long time because the additive package is strong. You can choose whatever you like for your engine, but my recommendation would be the Mobil 1 0W40. It meets 229.5 and is relatively cheap ($26/5QT jug at Wal-Mart). You can pay more, but you will not find a better performing oil.
I use it exclusively in my S600. Here are two Used Oil Analyses that I've posted elsewhere. The oil does a great job.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...S6#Post3764692
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2982174
For your car, you may have sludge, you may not. Oil color doesn't indicate acidity. Best thing to do is simply change it with the M1 0W40 and let the oil clean the engine. Solvents and additives are not good for your engine. Clean it gently and slowly using the additives in a good oil. An early change on your first run of Mobil 1 would be a good precaution.
So, the MB 229.5 standard for oil has rigorous additive requirements. An oil meeting that standard will last a long time because the additive package is strong. You can choose whatever you like for your engine, but my recommendation would be the Mobil 1 0W40. It meets 229.5 and is relatively cheap ($26/5QT jug at Wal-Mart). You can pay more, but you will not find a better performing oil.
I use it exclusively in my S600. Here are two Used Oil Analyses that I've posted elsewhere. The oil does a great job.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...S6#Post3764692
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2982174
For your car, you may have sludge, you may not. Oil color doesn't indicate acidity. Best thing to do is simply change it with the M1 0W40 and let the oil clean the engine. Solvents and additives are not good for your engine. Clean it gently and slowly using the additives in a good oil. An early change on your first run of Mobil 1 would be a good precaution.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
C230 Kompy, 2005 S500
Briefly, combustion creates oxides of nitrogen, that when combined with water in the crankcase, form acids. Oils have additives that neutralize those acids. When the additive is depleted, those acids combine with the oil to form sludge.
So, the MB 229.5 standard for oil has rigorous additive requirements. An oil meeting that standard will last a long time because the additive package is strong. You can choose whatever you like for your engine, but my recommendation would be the Mobil 1 0W40. It meets 229.5 and is relatively cheap ($26/5QT jug at Wal-Mart). You can pay more, but you will not find a better performing oil.
I use it exclusively in my S600. Here are two Used Oil Analyses that I've posted elsewhere. The oil does a great job.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...S6#Post3764692
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2982174
For your car, you may have sludge, you may not. Oil color doesn't indicate acidity. Best thing to do is simply change it with the M1 0W40 and let the oil clean the engine. Solvents and additives are not good for your engine. Clean it gently and slowly using the additives in a good oil. An early change on your first run of Mobil 1 would be a good precaution.
So, the MB 229.5 standard for oil has rigorous additive requirements. An oil meeting that standard will last a long time because the additive package is strong. You can choose whatever you like for your engine, but my recommendation would be the Mobil 1 0W40. It meets 229.5 and is relatively cheap ($26/5QT jug at Wal-Mart). You can pay more, but you will not find a better performing oil.
I use it exclusively in my S600. Here are two Used Oil Analyses that I've posted elsewhere. The oil does a great job.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...S6#Post3764692
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2982174
For your car, you may have sludge, you may not. Oil color doesn't indicate acidity. Best thing to do is simply change it with the M1 0W40 and let the oil clean the engine. Solvents and additives are not good for your engine. Clean it gently and slowly using the additives in a good oil. An early change on your first run of Mobil 1 would be a good precaution.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 448
Likes: 3
From: CALIFORNIA, UNITED STATES
2003 S430, 2014 E350
+1 On Mobil 1 0w-40.
But I have moved on to Mobil 1 Formula M. Got them from a mech I know. $5 a quart, super deal considering that he carries Mercedes oil for $6.
But I have moved on to Mobil 1 Formula M. Got them from a mech I know. $5 a quart, super deal considering that he carries Mercedes oil for $6.
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2009 E350 4M Avantgarde;mistress 2002 S600; wife 2014 C300 4M
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2009 E350 4M Avantgarde;mistress 2002 S600; wife 2014 C300 4M
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 443
Likes: 118
'03 S55 (79K miles)
Ugggg!
Translation:
"Change oil to Mobil1.
Drive around for 100 miles.
Change oil again.
Problem gone."
(This translator does not agree with the 100 mile duration suggested in the comment, and rather suggests 3k to let it do its job melting down any sludge in the valve train. This translator also regrets the slow downward spiral of proper English on a technically informative forum, as more 18 year olds listening to too much rap music can afford S55s and think everybody else want to fashizzle their nazzizle yo. Peace out.)
Translation:
"Change oil to Mobil1.
Drive around for 100 miles.
Change oil again.
Problem gone."
(This translator does not agree with the 100 mile duration suggested in the comment, and rather suggests 3k to let it do its job melting down any sludge in the valve train. This translator also regrets the slow downward spiral of proper English on a technically informative forum, as more 18 year olds listening to too much rap music can afford S55s and think everybody else want to fashizzle their nazzizle yo. Peace out.)
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 1,381
Likes: 32
Acura TL 2008 - Acura MDX 2012
Ugggg!
Translation:
"Change oil to Mobil1.
Drive around for 100 miles.
Change oil again.
Problem gone."
(This translator does not agree with the 100 mile duration suggested in the comment, and rather suggests 3k to let it do its job melting down any sludge in the valve train. This translator also regrets the slow downward spiral of proper English on a technically informative forum, as more 18 year olds listening to too much rap music can afford S55s and think everybody else want to fashizzle their nazzizle yo. Peace out.)
Translation:
"Change oil to Mobil1.
Drive around for 100 miles.
Change oil again.
Problem gone."
(This translator does not agree with the 100 mile duration suggested in the comment, and rather suggests 3k to let it do its job melting down any sludge in the valve train. This translator also regrets the slow downward spiral of proper English on a technically informative forum, as more 18 year olds listening to too much rap music can afford S55s and think everybody else want to fashizzle their nazzizle yo. Peace out.)
From what I have read, He has much sludge buildup. If he drove for 3k miles he would be running the excess sludge for that long. Maybe run it for 1k miles. Though I still believe 100miles would be optimum to allow the detergents to run though the system and scrub up the sludge. It may cost a bit in a filter and oil but at least your engine will be clean.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 443
Likes: 118
'03 S55 (79K miles)
I suppose I would agree to an earlier change. Around 1k. But sludge takes a long time to dissolve into fresh oil, even if it is synth M1 0W40.
My original estimate was based on seeing my son's friend's BMW535 respond well from running a few K with a fresh change after he bought it used with some sludging under the valve cover. He still has some.
The proper treatment is to pull the valve covers and pan off and dig it all out, clean with a solvent, run 10 miles, change oil.
My original estimate was based on seeing my son's friend's BMW535 respond well from running a few K with a fresh change after he bought it used with some sludging under the valve cover. He still has some.
The proper treatment is to pull the valve covers and pan off and dig it all out, clean with a solvent, run 10 miles, change oil.
