Rear door - unable to open from inside or out - how I fixed it
05-30-2017, 10:07 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Rear door - unable to open from inside or out - how I fixed it
Hi All,
I've had my 2001 S500 about a year now and have been fixing bits and pieces on it over that time. One thing I finally tackled last weekend was the passenger side rear door, which would not open from either the inside or outside. I've seen quite a few other posts from folks who've had the same issue, but never seen a resolution, so I was determined to figure a way to do it and post the results. I'm not going to bore you with details of how to take a door panel off and suchlike because there's plenty of YouTube videos out there showing how to do it. Rather I'll describe at a high level the steps I took. I'm not saying this is the best or only way to do it and I'd love to hear how others have solved the problem, hopefully more easily that I did! Happy to go in to more detail if folks have specific questions.
Some folks with the same problem asked whether it's possible to get the door panel off with the door closed. It's not, at least not without wrecking it. But it is possible to get it off completely intact if you unbolt the door hinges and check strap from the B-pillar, then support the door's weight and have an accomplice gently pry the front of the door away from the body. This will give you enough room to get a wedge in between the door frame and the panel and prise the fasteners off.
Note that you need to unbolt the two bolts in each hinge that hold the hinge to the B-pillar. And unbolting the check strap is particularly difficult - I did it by getting an 8mm wrench on to the hex bolts on the B-pillar side and very slowly undoing them - it will take a while.
Now at this point I rejoiced, having the door panel off in one piece and unfettered access to the door actuator. I could see that the cable from the interior door handle was still connected to the actuator arm - not so good. I pulled the cable as far as it would go and the door still would not open. Dismay set in. I grabbed the biggest screwdriver I had and jammed it in to the actuator mechanism around the door latch and levered it up and down while my friend yanked on the door. Suddenly the door sprang open, fortunately there was minimal damage done to the door and latch, and none visible after re-assembly.
So why wouldn't the door open? I'm not 100% sure but I'm pretty certain that it's because the soft close vacuum mechanism at the bottom of the actuator had broken off. I think I could have got the door open without the screwdriver if I had just fully depressed the broken soft close mechanism back in to the actuator - certainly that worked once I got the actuator assembly out of the door and tested it.
Once I confirmed the part number on the actuator I purchased a good used one from EBay for $45. A couple of other trim pieces from my local LKQ Pick-a-Part cost $3 - this to repair the screwdriver damage. And I was fortunate that LKQ had a couple of wrecked S430s I could go and practice my door panel and actuator removal - I ended up buying an actuator and door panel off them for $30 so I had a reference. All in all the job cost me about $100 including sundries like tools I didn't already have.
BUT it took me the best part of two days including hours on YouTube, in the wrecking yard, and on WIS to figure out how to get everything out and then back together again. Still, the sense of satisfaction when finally I had a fully working, pristine door was immense!
I will say that the more difficult parts of the job were:
1) Removing the door actuator - what Merc call the "bearing" between the exterior door handle and the door actuator needs to be removed first. WIS was helpful for this - at the wrecking yard I missed a few steps and as a result partially broke the actuator I purchased. I won't try to describe the process here, too complex, but if you attempt the job, consult WIS first so you don't break the release arm components that link the outer door handle with the door actuator.
2) Installing the door actuator - see above
3) Re-installing the door check strap. You need to completely remove the door strap assembly from the door. Because it's under tension, its impossible to re-bolt it back on to the B-pillar without manually forcing the strap back out to its full extent while it's out of the door. You can then re-install it in to the door and easily bolt it up to the B-pillar.
So that's it. I hope this helps someone else. And if you do attempt the job, try and find a "donor" car to practice on first!
Cheers,
Grant
I've had my 2001 S500 about a year now and have been fixing bits and pieces on it over that time. One thing I finally tackled last weekend was the passenger side rear door, which would not open from either the inside or outside. I've seen quite a few other posts from folks who've had the same issue, but never seen a resolution, so I was determined to figure a way to do it and post the results. I'm not going to bore you with details of how to take a door panel off and suchlike because there's plenty of YouTube videos out there showing how to do it. Rather I'll describe at a high level the steps I took. I'm not saying this is the best or only way to do it and I'd love to hear how others have solved the problem, hopefully more easily that I did! Happy to go in to more detail if folks have specific questions.
Some folks with the same problem asked whether it's possible to get the door panel off with the door closed. It's not, at least not without wrecking it. But it is possible to get it off completely intact if you unbolt the door hinges and check strap from the B-pillar, then support the door's weight and have an accomplice gently pry the front of the door away from the body. This will give you enough room to get a wedge in between the door frame and the panel and prise the fasteners off.
Note that you need to unbolt the two bolts in each hinge that hold the hinge to the B-pillar. And unbolting the check strap is particularly difficult - I did it by getting an 8mm wrench on to the hex bolts on the B-pillar side and very slowly undoing them - it will take a while.
Now at this point I rejoiced, having the door panel off in one piece and unfettered access to the door actuator. I could see that the cable from the interior door handle was still connected to the actuator arm - not so good. I pulled the cable as far as it would go and the door still would not open. Dismay set in. I grabbed the biggest screwdriver I had and jammed it in to the actuator mechanism around the door latch and levered it up and down while my friend yanked on the door. Suddenly the door sprang open, fortunately there was minimal damage done to the door and latch, and none visible after re-assembly.
So why wouldn't the door open? I'm not 100% sure but I'm pretty certain that it's because the soft close vacuum mechanism at the bottom of the actuator had broken off. I think I could have got the door open without the screwdriver if I had just fully depressed the broken soft close mechanism back in to the actuator - certainly that worked once I got the actuator assembly out of the door and tested it.
Once I confirmed the part number on the actuator I purchased a good used one from EBay for $45. A couple of other trim pieces from my local LKQ Pick-a-Part cost $3 - this to repair the screwdriver damage. And I was fortunate that LKQ had a couple of wrecked S430s I could go and practice my door panel and actuator removal - I ended up buying an actuator and door panel off them for $30 so I had a reference. All in all the job cost me about $100 including sundries like tools I didn't already have.
BUT it took me the best part of two days including hours on YouTube, in the wrecking yard, and on WIS to figure out how to get everything out and then back together again. Still, the sense of satisfaction when finally I had a fully working, pristine door was immense!
I will say that the more difficult parts of the job were:
1) Removing the door actuator - what Merc call the "bearing" between the exterior door handle and the door actuator needs to be removed first. WIS was helpful for this - at the wrecking yard I missed a few steps and as a result partially broke the actuator I purchased. I won't try to describe the process here, too complex, but if you attempt the job, consult WIS first so you don't break the release arm components that link the outer door handle with the door actuator.
2) Installing the door actuator - see above
3) Re-installing the door check strap. You need to completely remove the door strap assembly from the door. Because it's under tension, its impossible to re-bolt it back on to the B-pillar without manually forcing the strap back out to its full extent while it's out of the door. You can then re-install it in to the door and easily bolt it up to the B-pillar.
So that's it. I hope this helps someone else. And if you do attempt the job, try and find a "donor" car to practice on first!
Cheers,
Grant
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HJAMES608 (07-07-2018)
05-31-2017, 10:00 AM
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Here is a scenario where the door will not open from the outside or inside:
The inside door handle connects to a cable that is inserted in a little plastic ring. If that cable comes loose the door handle becomes useless.
The outside door handle connects to the actuator via that plastic piece that is very difficult to unclamp. Apparently, the previous owner must have taken the door panel off to replace something and didn't secure the connections. Once the door is shut it is sealed like a fortress.
I had a friend with a similar problem. I immediately told him to go on Ebay and look for a replacement door panel (there are plenty available). He found one for less than $50 that matched his interior.
I told him that what I was going to do next he probably wouldn't want to watch because it was about to get a bit ugly. I then took a small saw and cut a neat little hole in the panel where I estimated the cable would be so that I could stick a pair of need nose pliers through the hole and grab the cable. As soon as I pulled the cable the door immediately opened. Once I took the panel off after getting the door open it was exactly as I stated above.
In his attempt to replace the actuator he had not connected the cable properly and it came loose. Also, the door handle was not installed properly into the actuator. BTW, he had tried a couple of body shops and they couldn't get the door open. It also helped that I have replaced a few actuators and know exactly how the internals of these doors work.
The inside door handle connects to a cable that is inserted in a little plastic ring. If that cable comes loose the door handle becomes useless.
The outside door handle connects to the actuator via that plastic piece that is very difficult to unclamp. Apparently, the previous owner must have taken the door panel off to replace something and didn't secure the connections. Once the door is shut it is sealed like a fortress.
I had a friend with a similar problem. I immediately told him to go on Ebay and look for a replacement door panel (there are plenty available). He found one for less than $50 that matched his interior.
I told him that what I was going to do next he probably wouldn't want to watch because it was about to get a bit ugly. I then took a small saw and cut a neat little hole in the panel where I estimated the cable would be so that I could stick a pair of need nose pliers through the hole and grab the cable. As soon as I pulled the cable the door immediately opened. Once I took the panel off after getting the door open it was exactly as I stated above.
In his attempt to replace the actuator he had not connected the cable properly and it came loose. Also, the door handle was not installed properly into the actuator. BTW, he had tried a couple of body shops and they couldn't get the door open. It also helped that I have replaced a few actuators and know exactly how the internals of these doors work.
Last edited by ibeforreal; 05-31-2017 at 10:06 AM.
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HJAMES608 (07-08-2018)
09-14-2017, 06:31 PM
#4
How can a dealer do this without breaking the panel????!!!
I'm stuck with a closed, right, rear, passenger door.
I closed my door & heard a loud pop. It sounded like my rear glass broke & I was relieved to find that wasn't it...until I discovered my door wouldn't open & then read that it's such a pain to get the panel off with the door stuck closed.
What kills me most is that the dealers know how to get the door open without tearing up the panel & that knowledge apparently comes at a rate of $500-$600.
It seems like there;s some way they outsmart the door lock actuator system to get it to open & I bet it's really easy or it's some magic they do with the STAR system connected.
I can tell that my inner cables are still connected as I can here the mechanisms moving when I pull each handle & there's good tension at both handles. I tried putting my shoulder to it from the inside, with the outside & inside handles pulled to open, didn't work.
I got the small, easy panel out &, when I saw the hose from the PSE, I was thinking that I might be able to do something with that to defeat the beast. That's hose is before the actuator cap which I'm assuming is broken & causing this problem so, I still have to remove the full panel & open the door.
Does anyone know if there's an override in STAR that dealers might be using to get beyond the loss of vacuum at the actuator?
Anyone tried removing all of the Power Lock fuses?
I tried removing the FoR connection at the PSE pump but that does nothing to create the missing vacuum at the actuator.
There has to be some trick they use & it's driving me nuts.
I closed my door & heard a loud pop. It sounded like my rear glass broke & I was relieved to find that wasn't it...until I discovered my door wouldn't open & then read that it's such a pain to get the panel off with the door stuck closed.
What kills me most is that the dealers know how to get the door open without tearing up the panel & that knowledge apparently comes at a rate of $500-$600.
It seems like there;s some way they outsmart the door lock actuator system to get it to open & I bet it's really easy or it's some magic they do with the STAR system connected.
I can tell that my inner cables are still connected as I can here the mechanisms moving when I pull each handle & there's good tension at both handles. I tried putting my shoulder to it from the inside, with the outside & inside handles pulled to open, didn't work.
I got the small, easy panel out &, when I saw the hose from the PSE, I was thinking that I might be able to do something with that to defeat the beast. That's hose is before the actuator cap which I'm assuming is broken & causing this problem so, I still have to remove the full panel & open the door.
Does anyone know if there's an override in STAR that dealers might be using to get beyond the loss of vacuum at the actuator?
Anyone tried removing all of the Power Lock fuses?
I tried removing the FoR connection at the PSE pump but that does nothing to create the missing vacuum at the actuator.
There has to be some trick they use & it's driving me nuts.
09-15-2017, 02:47 PM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joseph, take the easy way out as I did.
The "POP" you heard was the white cap on the actuator exploding. They are plastic and under a lot of pressure so after several years they will eventually just crack. When I replaced my front door actuators I tied some zip ties around the plastic cap to help take some of the pressure off. Now as far as getting your door panel off the easiest and cheapest way is to just order a used one from ebay. They are generally under $100. Just make sure that the holes for the various buttons are positioned the same as yours. And then you just take a small hand saw to the old one and yank on the cable and the door will release.
I'm sure I could have come up with a way to get the door opened but it would have involved too much extra work with the possibility of causing some damage to the door. There may be a STAR parameter that will do this for you but I'm not aware of one. You might try calling the MB dealer and ask them what it would cost to have the door opened just to get an idea.
The "POP" you heard was the white cap on the actuator exploding. They are plastic and under a lot of pressure so after several years they will eventually just crack. When I replaced my front door actuators I tied some zip ties around the plastic cap to help take some of the pressure off. Now as far as getting your door panel off the easiest and cheapest way is to just order a used one from ebay. They are generally under $100. Just make sure that the holes for the various buttons are positioned the same as yours. And then you just take a small hand saw to the old one and yank on the cable and the door will release.
I'm sure I could have come up with a way to get the door opened but it would have involved too much extra work with the possibility of causing some damage to the door. There may be a STAR parameter that will do this for you but I'm not aware of one. You might try calling the MB dealer and ask them what it would cost to have the door opened just to get an idea.
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Joseph Magsalay (09-15-2017)
10-03-2017, 10:17 PM
#6
Another Wild Idea
So, I'm able to yank the hell out of the cable to the interior door handle & it does nothing more than using the door handle which is, apparently, still attached. I pulled off the working door's panel so that I could see where the cable is. I bent a metal rod into a hook that would get back there & grab it. The cable is wrapped in a plastic insulator so, you can get good grip on it. The rod was from the door mechanism of an old VW. I could hear my mechanism working but it still wouldn't allow my door to open.
I don't use my back doors pretty much ever so, I'm in no hurry to get this resolved & I'm really determined to do it without jacking up the panel because there's no way those guys are smarter than all of us that have had this problem. Plus, I'm thinking about selling this car in the not too distant future.
Here's where my twisted mind is headed. What if I took some air hose & jumped across my car from the connector seen near the middle of the attached photo to the same connection on the problem door?
That connector has another hose attached to it that runs back to the door release mechanism. That means the busted cap would be out of the process.
Since the drivers' side door is working, I would think that actuator could apply the amount of air magic needed to make the other side work.
I have a feeling I must be missing something so, I'm hoping somebody can point that out to me before I blow up my working door.
Thanks, in advance, for feedback.
I don't use my back doors pretty much ever so, I'm in no hurry to get this resolved & I'm really determined to do it without jacking up the panel because there's no way those guys are smarter than all of us that have had this problem. Plus, I'm thinking about selling this car in the not too distant future.
Here's where my twisted mind is headed. What if I took some air hose & jumped across my car from the connector seen near the middle of the attached photo to the same connection on the problem door?
That connector has another hose attached to it that runs back to the door release mechanism. That means the busted cap would be out of the process.
Since the drivers' side door is working, I would think that actuator could apply the amount of air magic needed to make the other side work.
I have a feeling I must be missing something so, I'm hoping somebody can point that out to me before I blow up my working door.
Thanks, in advance, for feedback.
10-04-2017, 09:20 AM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
From the first post in the thread:
"So why wouldn't the door open? I'm not 100% sure but I'm pretty certain that it's because the soft close vacuum mechanism at the bottom of the actuator had broken off. I think I could have got the door open without the screwdriver if I had just fully depressed the broken soft close mechanism back in to the actuator - certainly that worked once I got the actuator assembly out of the door and tested it."
"So why wouldn't the door open? I'm not 100% sure but I'm pretty certain that it's because the soft close vacuum mechanism at the bottom of the actuator had broken off. I think I could have got the door open without the screwdriver if I had just fully depressed the broken soft close mechanism back in to the actuator - certainly that worked once I got the actuator assembly out of the door and tested it."
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01-27-2020, 09:27 PM
#8
2004 430 RR door:
locked from both sides, cant get panel off door because its closed.
popped out the SRS tab on the door panel, its right next to lock,
pulled back airbag cover, peeled back the sound proofing,
looked online at pictures of the "Door Actuator Latch W220"
figured out the location of the door latch and stuck a long skinny screwdriver into the actuator pressing the lever and WHOLLAA..... door popped open.
Ebay used door panel..... $60 could of got away with using the old one......
Ebay Door Actuator Latch W220 and bought a used one $50
$110
3 hours total time.
works perfect
locked from both sides, cant get panel off door because its closed.
popped out the SRS tab on the door panel, its right next to lock,
pulled back airbag cover, peeled back the sound proofing,
looked online at pictures of the "Door Actuator Latch W220"
figured out the location of the door latch and stuck a long skinny screwdriver into the actuator pressing the lever and WHOLLAA..... door popped open.
Ebay used door panel..... $60 could of got away with using the old one......
Ebay Door Actuator Latch W220 and bought a used one $50
$110
3 hours total time.
works perfect
Last edited by mafap; 01-27-2020 at 09:33 PM.
06-06-2021, 09:09 PM
#9
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Location: Long Island, NY
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‘03 MB S600; ‘07 Saab Aero conv; ‘65 Vette; ‘66 vette; ‘05 BMW Z4
Resurrecting this old thread as I encountered this issue on my rear passenger door. It will take me a couple of days to get to it, but I plan to pop out the Sara’s cover and try and do what mafap suggests above. Before I do, a couple of questions:
- can I do this with the battery connected? “Pull back the airbag cover” or anything else related to the airbag makes me worry about preactivation.
- will I be able to see anything once I peel back the foam, or am I hunting around with the screwdriver blind?
- I see actuators on eBay, and also actuator caps/repair kits. Which would be easier?
Since this thread is several years old, are there any other suggestions or solutions that I should be aware of?
Thanks in advance
- can I do this with the battery connected? “Pull back the airbag cover” or anything else related to the airbag makes me worry about preactivation.
- will I be able to see anything once I peel back the foam, or am I hunting around with the screwdriver blind?
- I see actuators on eBay, and also actuator caps/repair kits. Which would be easier?
Since this thread is several years old, are there any other suggestions or solutions that I should be aware of?
Thanks in advance
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biker349 (08-13-2021)
08-13-2021, 12:20 AM
#10
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Join Date: Aug 2021
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2006 S500
Thanks for the description. A little over my amateur head but a good place to start building my vocabulary and door panel skills.Would be great if you could find a donor car and do a Youtube video to share with the world.
03-01-2024, 10:32 PM
#12
Super Member
Saving this for later.
