S-Class (W220) 1999-2006: S 320 CDI, S 320, S430, S 500, S 600

S500 in Limp Mode

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Old 06-11-2018, 09:00 AM
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S500 in Limp Mode

Yesterday while driving, I noticed the car would not shift into 2nd gear and I couldn't go past 30 mph. I pulled over, turned the car on/off and everything was back to normal. I've also had 2 instances where the shifter was stuck in Drive and I couldn't get it past Neutral until I turned the car on/off.

I'm thinking there's an issue with the shifter module? Thoughts?

Things are beginning to go south with this car really fast. I've ran into multiple issues over the course of 3-5 months. It's one thing after another. I wonder if this is related to the aftermarket system I've installed in the car. My rear SAM fried, my front headlight is giving errors, side markers are out, instrument cluster resets itself and does not save settings.

Carmax offered me $2000. I just can't do it. Not with the amount of money I've poured into the vehicle and given it's overall interior/exterior condition. UGH, this sucks
Old 06-11-2018, 12:54 PM
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Mercedes
You either have water damage to your electronics (commin problem have you cleaned out reed valve in the black plastic reservoir below passenger side windshield ? It gets clogged and water enters the cabin electronics )

or fluid damage to your transmission control unit as there’s a 13 pin connector which leaks and fluid leaks into tcu

both of these are very common problems and very expensive if not caught and fixed as they damage more things
Old 06-11-2018, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by tusabes
You either have water damage to your electronics (commin problem have you cleaned out reed valve in the black plastic reservoir below passenger side windshield ? It gets clogged and water enters the cabin electronics )

or fluid damage to your transmission control unit as there’s a 13 pin connector which leaks and fluid leaks into tcu

both of these are very common problems and very expensive if not caught and fixed as they damage more things
Thanks Tusabes...

There should transmission error codes stored, right? A STAR diagnostic scan should pin point the issue? Thanks
Old 06-11-2018, 08:59 PM
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Mercedes
Not necessarily

you need to do a visual check of the tcu to see if it’s wet with fluid , do a water test of the reed valve to make sure it’s not clogged , and check the 13 pin connector . It should be replaced regardless they are cheap and essential to change

Last edited by tusabes; 06-11-2018 at 09:02 PM.
Old 06-12-2018, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by tusabes
Not necessarily

you need to do a visual check of the tcu to see if it’s wet with fluid , do a water test of the reed valve to make sure it’s not clogged , and check the 13 pin connector . It should be replaced regardless they are cheap and essential to change
Thanks. I checked yesterday and the reed valve was clean. Just a few leaves but the drain hole was open.

I'm dropping off my car this morning to a benz mechanic to run diagnostics. I'll have him check the mentioned items to make sure the TCU is not wet, connector etc....

I'll keep everyone posted
Old 06-13-2018, 09:13 AM
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Update- Looks like its the shifter module is starting to go bad. I know there's a piece that breaks that can be replaced fairly cheap but the indy is telling me the entire module needs to be replaced. The part alone is $1500. Yikes

It's been fun. Going to sell it. See if I can get 3500-4000 for it
Old 06-13-2018, 09:24 AM
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I think that you need a new mechanic.

Here is a complete set of the security-critical items for $350...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/00-06-Merce...a~M4F#viTabs_0
Old 06-13-2018, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by wallyp
I think that you need a new mechanic.

Here is a complete set of the security-critical items for $350...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/00-06-Merce...a~M4F#viTabs_0

Holy crap. Thanks

I know these mechanics aren't a big fan of installing used parts. I know another indy that will probably do it

Thanks for this link!
Old 06-13-2018, 10:47 AM
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Remember that these items must be replaced as a set...

Check with the vendor before buying to ensure that everything came from one vehicle.
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Old 06-14-2018, 01:01 AM
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Yes if using used parts you must change alll 4 parts (key shifter ecu and ignition switch )

as they are all coded to only work together

a brand new shifter can be coded to your car and you can just change the one part . But if using used parts you must swap all 4
Old 06-14-2018, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by tusabes
Yes if using used parts you must change alll 4 parts (key shifter ecu and ignition switch )

as they are all coded to only work together

a brand new shifter can be coded to your car and you can just change the one part . But if using used parts you must swap all 4
Thanks, my mechanic (this is a new guy) called me back and gave me a very thorough run down of what may be going on. I was actually impressed; he knows these cars very well. He noticed that all the instrument cluster programming he does, disappears and resets. I mentioned that anytime I change a setting in the cluster, they revert a few days later. He used some intense terminology like "CAN BUS" and "gateway" this and that and also noticed that when my aftermarket radio was installed, the fiber optic stuff was not routed correctly which in turn could be causing all these electrical issues I'm having. I made a post on here about the clock missing from my instrument cluster, I forgot what he said he did, but that is back now!

I give it to this guy, he has dug real deep and is searching for the root cause of all these electrical issues I've been having (instrument cluster reset, check low beam r, sidemarkers out, rear sam fried etc) and it looks like he's getting close to solving all my weird electrical issues. He's looking for water leaks to; he said they could be so minor that you may not even see it in the car

He also mentioned that we can use the repair kit for the shifter but he can't make any promises on how long it will last. The shifter is throwing back codes etc...

Anyway, I'll provide another update once I hear back what he finds. I think it may help others in the future.
Old 06-14-2018, 08:47 AM
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It sounds as if your new tech is better. Good luck to both of you!

When you have water intrusion from the plugged HVAC plenum drain, it is very common to not see water in the car. The water fills the plenum, then spills over at the firewall, runs down the firewall inside the car, and under the carpet. There are channels stamped into the floor where the water collects (these channels are not there to collect/direct the water!). The water soaks the thick foam padding under the carpet, and makes its way to the rear of the car to the SAM (Signal Acquisition Module under the rear seat. Along the way, it soaks the main power cable and associated prefuses under an aluminum cover under the passenger carpet. This can cause corrosion and mysterious electrical problems. (These are the elements that are sometimes damaged by improper jump-starting.)

When the water get to the rear, it can fill the rear SAM and its fuse box. This can cause severe damage with associated electrical problems.

Just because there was no water in the plenum when you got around to checking it does not mean that it did not fill with water during rain or a carwash! Slow drainage can fill the plenum, but the water might disappear in a couple of days...

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