Misfiring when fuel tank almost empty
#1
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Mercedes S430 2003
Misfiring when fuel tank almost empty
Hi guys,
This afternoon I was driving my S430 on an almost empty tank (I had like 10km of range) and on my way to the gas station my check engine light came on and started to blink and the whole car started to shake and went into limp mode. I had 4 error codes, P0300 (random/multiple cylinder misfire), P0301, P0304 and P0305 (misfire on cylinder 1, 4 and 5). I went to get some gas, but the car kept misfiring for a while as soon as I pressed the pedal. I didn't want to have it towed since I got another W220 at home so I could have changed the coil packs and/or the spark plugs myself, but while driving home, the problem eventually went away but the check engine light remained on even after clearing the codes. I suspect this is due to a very low fuel tank, even though I have never ever experienced that on any car I drove (and I went many times on an empty tank). Maybe the fact that I've been keeping the tank relatively low for the past 2 weeks (between 1/8 and 1/2) has something to do with it ?I have never had any problem with the engine so I don't think the coils could have gone bad suddenly.
Is it possible that these misfires were caused by the low fuel ? And is it possible that I damaged the cylinders while driving in that condition ?
Thanks in advance.
This afternoon I was driving my S430 on an almost empty tank (I had like 10km of range) and on my way to the gas station my check engine light came on and started to blink and the whole car started to shake and went into limp mode. I had 4 error codes, P0300 (random/multiple cylinder misfire), P0301, P0304 and P0305 (misfire on cylinder 1, 4 and 5). I went to get some gas, but the car kept misfiring for a while as soon as I pressed the pedal. I didn't want to have it towed since I got another W220 at home so I could have changed the coil packs and/or the spark plugs myself, but while driving home, the problem eventually went away but the check engine light remained on even after clearing the codes. I suspect this is due to a very low fuel tank, even though I have never ever experienced that on any car I drove (and I went many times on an empty tank). Maybe the fact that I've been keeping the tank relatively low for the past 2 weeks (between 1/8 and 1/2) has something to do with it ?I have never had any problem with the engine so I don't think the coils could have gone bad suddenly.
Is it possible that these misfires were caused by the low fuel ? And is it possible that I damaged the cylinders while driving in that condition ?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by STRGLZ; 10-16-2018 at 11:59 PM.
#2
Hi guys,
This afternoon I was driving my S430 on an almost empty tank (I had like 10km of range) and on my way to the gas station my check engine light came on and started to blink and the whole car started to shake and went into limp mode. I had 4 error codes, P0300 (random/multiple cylinder misfire), P0301, P0304 and P0305 (misfire on cylinder 1, 4 and 5). I went to get some gas, but the car kept misfire for a while as soon as I pressed the pedal. I didn't want to have it towed since I got another W220 at home so I could have changed the coil packs and/or the spark plugs myself, but while driving home, the problem eventually went away but the check engine light remained on even after clearing the codes. I suspect this is due to a very low fuel tank, even though I have never ever experienced that on any car I drove (and I went many times on an empty tank). Maybe the fact that I've been keeping the tank relatively low for the past 2 weeks (between 1/8 and 1/2) has something to do with it ?I have never had any problem with the engine so I don't think the coils could have gone bad suddenly.
Is it possible that these misfires were caused by the low fuel ? And is it possible that I damaged the cylinders while driving in that condition ?
Thanks in advance.
This afternoon I was driving my S430 on an almost empty tank (I had like 10km of range) and on my way to the gas station my check engine light came on and started to blink and the whole car started to shake and went into limp mode. I had 4 error codes, P0300 (random/multiple cylinder misfire), P0301, P0304 and P0305 (misfire on cylinder 1, 4 and 5). I went to get some gas, but the car kept misfire for a while as soon as I pressed the pedal. I didn't want to have it towed since I got another W220 at home so I could have changed the coil packs and/or the spark plugs myself, but while driving home, the problem eventually went away but the check engine light remained on even after clearing the codes. I suspect this is due to a very low fuel tank, even though I have never ever experienced that on any car I drove (and I went many times on an empty tank). Maybe the fact that I've been keeping the tank relatively low for the past 2 weeks (between 1/8 and 1/2) has something to do with it ?I have never had any problem with the engine so I don't think the coils could have gone bad suddenly.
Is it possible that these misfires were caused by the low fuel ? And is it possible that I damaged the cylinders while driving in that condition ?
Thanks in advance.
#3
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I tried once. I was told the light will eventually come off as I drive, so we'll see. But I guess another code is going to appear if I really have a permanent problem. But is it normal for a car to misfire when really low on gas ?
#4
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Possible, but not very common.
On many fuel-injected vehicles, the pump moves full volume at all times, and the pressure regulator manages the pressure by holding back enough flow to maintain the desired pressure. If the fuel level get low enough, the pump inlet might start sucking in a mixture of air and fuel, and this could cause low fuel pressure.
On many fuel-injected vehicles, the pump moves full volume at all times, and the pressure regulator manages the pressure by holding back enough flow to maintain the desired pressure. If the fuel level get low enough, the pump inlet might start sucking in a mixture of air and fuel, and this could cause low fuel pressure.
#5
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Possible, but not very common.
On many fuel-injected vehicles, the pump moves full volume at all times, and the pressure regulator manages the pressure by holding back enough flow to maintain the desired pressure. If the fuel level get low enough, the pump inlet might start sucking in a mixture of air and fuel, and this could cause low fuel pressure.
On many fuel-injected vehicles, the pump moves full volume at all times, and the pressure regulator manages the pressure by holding back enough flow to maintain the desired pressure. If the fuel level get low enough, the pump inlet might start sucking in a mixture of air and fuel, and this could cause low fuel pressure.
#6
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Yes, low pressure can cause misfiring.
The fuel/air ratio is controlled by the computer based upon numerous control inputs. The amount of fuel injected is controlled strictly by the amount of time that the computer holds the injectors opened for each firing event. If the fuel pressure is correct at 55 psig, all is well. If entrained air causes the fuel pressure to drop to 25 psig, less than half as much fuel is injected in the same amount of time.
The fuel/air ratio is controlled by the computer based upon numerous control inputs. The amount of fuel injected is controlled strictly by the amount of time that the computer holds the injectors opened for each firing event. If the fuel pressure is correct at 55 psig, all is well. If entrained air causes the fuel pressure to drop to 25 psig, less than half as much fuel is injected in the same amount of time.
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Okay, it's all much clearer now, thanks !
You said in your first message that it's something not very common, but possible. Does it mean something is broken ?
You said in your first message that it's something not very common, but possible. Does it mean something is broken ?
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#11
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I have no problems except for the fact that the fuel seems to burn faster, but I'm guessing it's because I put regular last time I went to the gas station (yep... I only noticed when I checked at the receipt). I'm actually surprised the engine didn't knock despite the fact that it has the wrong fuel.
#12
I have no problems except for the fact that the fuel seems to burn faster, but I'm guessing it's because I put regular last time I went to the gas station (yep... I only noticed when I checked at the receipt). I'm actually surprised the engine didn't knock despite the fact that it has the wrong fuel.
#13
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I know this is a bit older but I experienced the same thing...gas got low and all of a sudden the car started misfiring and running sluggish as if it was going to cut off. I ran the codes and it was P0300. I had the guy clear it but he said that it wouldn't let his machine clear it out. Though he said that when I started the car it was cleared out. I filled up the car and it started driving normal for awhile (about 15mils) and then I started to notice a loss of power when accelerating. Since then I have just parked it and went into research mode.
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How bad is the power loss ? In my case I haven't noticed any difference regarding power (though the transmission and engine acts weirdly at low speed but that because of an ABS problem), but I did notice my fuel consumption dropped considerably. I used to drive to college everyday in september with about between 8-9L/100km, now I don't go to college anymore but I did use the same road and I get about 14L/100km, 12 if I'm really lucky. I'm not sure if it's related with that one time the car misfired. The transmission takes longer to change speed, so for example if I go at 50 kph it will stay at 2000 RPM and I need to reach 60 kph for it to drop at 1500. I've been stuck with the ABS problem for a few months and I know the tranny is acting weird and all that, but I never noticed any loss in fuel consumption. At that point, it could be a lot of things.
#15
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How bad is the power loss ? In my case I haven't noticed any difference regarding power (though the transmission and engine acts weirdly at low speed but that because of an ABS problem), but I did notice my fuel consumption dropped considerably. I used to drive to college everyday in september with about between 8-9L/100km, now I don't go to college anymore but I did use the same road and I get about 14L/100km, 12 if I'm really lucky. I'm not sure if it's related with that one time the car misfired. The transmission takes longer to change speed, so for example if I go at 50 kph it will stay at 2000 RPM and I need to reach 60 kph for it to drop at 1500. I've been stuck with the ABS problem for a few months and I know the tranny is acting weird and all that, but I never noticed any loss in fuel consumption. At that point, it could be a lot of things.
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That's pretty bad indeed. Do you still have misfires and/or check engine light ? My guess would be the fuel pump or the fuel filter since no immediate response could mean the fuel takes longer to get to the injector. It could also be the injector itself that took a severe hit. In fact, it could be lot of things. If you have your own scan tool like iCarsoft or SDS (better), I would advise you do a full scan to check for any problem. If you don't, have it checked by a trusted mechanic as soon as you can. If you bring it to the garage, have it towed.
Edit : After a second thought, it could also be the throttle position sensor. It's unlikely that it got damaged by a misfiring engine, but make sure to check that as well.
Edit : After a second thought, it could also be the throttle position sensor. It's unlikely that it got damaged by a misfiring engine, but make sure to check that as well.
Last edited by STRGLZ; 11-20-2018 at 10:19 PM.
#17
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That's pretty bad indeed. Do you still have misfires and/or check engine light ? My guess would be the fuel pump or the fuel filter since no immediate response could mean the fuel takes longer to get to the injector. It could also be the injector itself that took a severe hit. In fact, it could be lot of things. If you have your own scan tool like iCarsoft or SDS (better), I would advise you do a full scan to check for any problem. If you don't, have it checked by a trusted mechanic as soon as you can. If you bring it to the garage, have it towed.
Edit : After a second thought, it could also be the throttle position sensor. It's unlikely that it got damaged by a misfiring engine, but make sure to check that as well.
Edit : After a second thought, it could also be the throttle position sensor. It's unlikely that it got damaged by a misfiring engine, but make sure to check that as well.
How do I know if I still have misfires? The chick engine light is on but it doesn't blink any more like it did when it first came on. I honestly need to go scan it again to make sure it is the same code as last time.
#18
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When you got misfires, you'll have a flashing check engine light, the car will start to shake like hell because cylinders can't fire in the order they are meant to (for example, if the firing order is 1-3-2-4 and cylinder 3 starts misfiring, it's gonna go as 1-2-4, making the engine completely unbalanced). You'll also get poor idling and really poor performance because the car will switch into limp mode to avoid damaging components. On top of that, you'll get poor fuel economy because the working cylinders will have to burn more fuel to get the same amount of power, AND the misfiring cylinders will keep burning fuel as well. This can increase your fuel consumption by up to 50%.
If you have your check engine light on but not flashing, itsi probably just a stored code that hasn't been cleared. Get yourself an OBD-II scanner to read the codes, you can get a good one inexpensively for 25$ on Amazon. I wouldn't go to the garage for a check engine. The loss of power is more serious though.
If you have your check engine light on but not flashing, itsi probably just a stored code that hasn't been cleared. Get yourself an OBD-II scanner to read the codes, you can get a good one inexpensively for 25$ on Amazon. I wouldn't go to the garage for a check engine. The loss of power is more serious though.
Last edited by STRGLZ; 11-20-2018 at 10:56 PM.
#19
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Most likely when you ran your fuel low, you inadvertently sucked up some dirty water/gas combination lurking in the bottom of your fuel tank, clogging the injectors. Your fuel injectors may need to be cleaned or replaced, depending on damage.
Moral? Always try to avoid running with a near empty tank of gas.
Moral? Always try to avoid running with a near empty tank of gas.
Last edited by rustybear3; 11-20-2018 at 10:59 PM.
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#20
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Most likely when you ran your fuel low, you inadvertently sucked up some dirty water/gas combination lurking in the bottom of your fuel tank. Your fuel injectors may need to be cleaned or replaced, depending on damage.
Moral? Always try to avoid running with a near empty tank of gas.
Moral? Always try to avoid running with a near empty tank of gas.
Last edited by STRGLZ; 11-20-2018 at 11:08 PM.
#21
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Most likely when you ran your fuel low, you inadvertently sucked up some dirty water/gas combination lurking in the bottom of your fuel tank, clogging the injectors. Your fuel injectors may need to be cleaned or replaced, depending on damage.
Moral? Always try to avoid running with a near empty tank of gas.
Moral? Always try to avoid running with a near empty tank of gas.
Would it help for me to put some fuel injector cleaner in?
#22
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When you got misfires, you'll have a flashing check engine light, the car will start to shake like hell because cylinders can't fire in the order they are meant to (for example, if the firing order is 1-3-2-4 and cylinder 3 starts misfiring, it's gonna go as 1-2-4, making the engine completely unbalanced). You'll also get poor idling and really poor performance because the car will switch into limp mode to avoid damaging components. On top of that, you'll get poor fuel economy because the working cylinders will have to burn more fuel to get the same amount of power, AND the misfiring cylinders will keep burning fuel as well. This can increase your fuel consumption by up to 50%.
If you have your check engine light on but not flashing, itsi probably just a stored code that hasn't been cleared. Get yourself an OBD-II scanner to read the codes, you can get a good one inexpensively for 25$ on Amazon. I wouldn't go to the garage for a check engine. The loss of power is more serious though.
If you have your check engine light on but not flashing, itsi probably just a stored code that hasn't been cleared. Get yourself an OBD-II scanner to read the codes, you can get a good one inexpensively for 25$ on Amazon. I wouldn't go to the garage for a check engine. The loss of power is more serious though.
#23
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Fuel injector cleaner wouldn't hurt, but you should also check if they are damaged. There is a simple trick involving a screwdriver that you can try yourself to see if all injectors are at least working :
Last edited by STRGLZ; 11-21-2018 at 12:46 AM.
#24
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Once the orange light for the last 1/8 is on, it is your "gas light" (see the picture attached, this is a good example of how low you don't want to let it go) and it means it's time to go to the gas station. Don't know if the R means Reserve, but that would make sense.
Fuel injector cleaner wouldn't hurt, but you should also check if they are damaged. There is a simple trick involving a screwdriver that you can try yourself to see if all injectors are at least working : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tA_E6X4ISgQ
Fuel injector cleaner wouldn't hurt, but you should also check if they are damaged. There is a simple trick involving a screwdriver that you can try yourself to see if all injectors are at least working : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tA_E6X4ISgQ
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Then it might not be fuel related, because that means you had at least 1/8 of your tank, which is acceptable. Unless your tank is very dirty, I would say the misfiring happened because of normal wear and old parts that will weed to be replaced. Don't forget that your car is 17 years old. In my case it happened because of low fuel pressure, but it's unlikely to be the same cause for you, unless your fuel pump is bad.
Last edited by STRGLZ; 11-21-2018 at 01:56 AM.