ABC issues. Please help!
The error message has not repeated itself but it had stored errors on the rear valve block and a low pressure error. When I ran a system actuation test, it started at a 195 bar reading and it dropped to 74 bar before aborting. When I run a front/back actuation or a left/right actuation, the test completes with no errors and the pressure stays > 188 bar but, I notice the rear never comes to normal ride height in the front/back actuation. It always drops very low and stays there with only minor up/down movements. The front seems to go to through the full range. I did run the actuator voltage test for the front and back and they were all in the suggested ranges.
Would the rear valve block possible be the low pressure reading culprit?
The first thing is to make sure the fluid level is right. It's an exacting thing to do. Shout if you're unsure.
Replacing the fluid and the filter is always a good idea.
What are the circumstances of the error / alerts? Does it happen when idling, at speed, on bumps or in corners?
The valve block is unlikely to cause low pressure readings; they just tend to cause sagging.
Low pressure might be down to the pump, but it might be the accumulators as well. There's a good check for them.
Nick
Thanks for your response.
I have checked the fluid level and it is in the range on the stick. I mitivac'd the fluid from the reservoir and replaced it with new pentosin and a new filter about 4 months ago. The actual red dashboard error occurred on one day only but, it did repeat after a restart on the same day. It occurred on a hot restart when the car was sitting on a slight uphill grade. The ambient temperature outside was approx 28C. It was accompanied by a slight tapping noise under the hood that may have been coming from the pump. Just couldn't tell. The car is no longer making the noise on restart.
What I did notice yesterday was, after the SDS tests, that some fluid was leaking from the rear valve block. After closer inspection I could see that the bottom 2 electrical connectors were saturated in hydraulic fluid. I cleaned the lines and connectors. After restarting, the car went up to it's original ride height. I'm thinking that the connectors may have been shorted?
My plan is to rebuild the rear valve block and see if that helps.
I'm interested in the procedure you are suggesting to test the accumulators. Is there a sequence in SDS that I would use or is there something else involved?
Eric
sounds like you are capable to diy so it’s not a huge deal if you aren’t paying a shop
I probably replaced mine in under an hour and it was my first time. My accumulator failure resulted in fluid being forced out of the reservoir, a common occurrence when the nitrogen from the accumulator escapes and forces itself out of the system via the reservoir. I would get a quick flash of a warning when going over speed bumps or large dips on the highway.









