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Afternoon,
I have been on this site for sometime now and have searched things in the past. I wanted to say hello....... and that I think my car hates me. Not going to get into a long post, but I have a 2003 S500 (base - think it is a W220) and it is an electrical nightmare... I love the car and I inherited it from my grandparents, which did no maintenance on the car. Love to get some feedback on it.
Welcome ! These cars usually have great engines and transmission but they’re electronics are the downfall , especially if water entered the cabin which is a common problem due to clogged reed valve
Welcome! I stand on the other side, as I have given my Grandson vehicles - not always with good results...
The folks on this forum and on the BenzWorld W220 Forum will be happy to try to help you, but you will have to help us do so.
You have made an excellent start by letting us know model year, specific model, and your location. The next step is to tell us what is wrong. We need specific, detailed descriptions of what the car is actually doing and not doing. It very rarely helps if you tell us what you think is wrong, of if you say something like "I have checked everything, and...".
DO NOT DESPAIR! PATIENCE and methodical investigation will lead to most all solutions. DO NOT attempt to 'fix a problem' by simply replacing components. That can get very expensive and accomplish nothing. Some problem causes are not 'intuitive. and MUST be determined by the built-in diagnostics and SCAN tool. READ THE FAQ SECTION first. Learn about the more common issues. WATER entering the cabin from overflowing plenum (clogged tiny drain) is THE MOST CATASTROPHIC 'maintenance related failure'. It can easily TOTAL a vehicle. CLEAN THE WATER DRAINS ASAP.
Purchase a decent 'scanner'. $250 will get you the 'best' amateur level tool that will do 99% of what a Dealer system can do. This electronic tool will talk with and interrogate EVERY electrical system and component (down to individual light bulbs) in the vehicle and tell you if and what is not working right.
Call MBUSA with the VIN and ask for a copy of the BUILD SHEET, which shows everything that vehicle was built with- and component ID's etc. While on the line, ask for a copy of the 'Fuse Chart' which was supposed to be a laminated sheet in the spare tire well. There are quite a few different (and unusual) locations for fuse 'boxes.'
READ the Owners Manuals--all of them.
buy a copy of the MAINTENANCE MANUAL. Search on-line and find and print out the 'wiring diagrams'.
The electrical/electronic systems ARE VERY COMPLICATED. The vast majority of problems with electrical/electronics is bad connections/no power. Without the good 'scan tool' to identify the faulty component, correcting problems is all but impossible.
I am back!!! The day I posted I got sick with COVID.... Not a fun situation at all and I am just not getting back to somewhat of normalcy!
Yes, I was his favorite and it also holds true that the car has been a blessing and a curse. It has helped my family and myself when we did not have transportation, but it also has not been maintenance properly.
Currently I have another vehicle that gets way to much attention and money from me. Along with that servicing the Mercedes I have is not cheap. There are only about 3 places that do maintenance on them here in town.
Right now it is giving me a couple problems. There is something running (low whining sound) behind the dash when the car is off. You can operate the windows and the radio when the car is off and the key is out. Along with that fact if I do not unplug the negative to battery or put a trickle charge on it after about 8 or 9 hours the battery will die. That is about the biggest issue that I am facing right now. The driver seat position electronics do not work, likewise with the heating of the driver seats.
Please be aware!!! I know the way I am going about fixing the issues is not the best nor most efficient way. That is one of the main reasons i am here seeking assistance from you all, so take it easy on me lol
first take the navigation disc Or any other cd out of the dash Radio , that is the most common reason they stay on and drain the battery . If that doesn’t work you may need to unplug The radio completely
first take the navigation disc Or any other cd out of the dash Radio , that is the most common reason they stay on and drain the battery . If that doesn’t work you may need to unplug The radio completely
There are no CD’s in the deck and I got the radio to turn off one time, but the battery still went out. I got the whining to turn off, but even that didn’t stop the battery from dying.
Also wanted to show pictures of it. The black rims have been sold and now the offsets are on it.
Afternoon People!
Anyone have any ideas? Or is anyone close to Birmingham, AL that wants me to pay them a visit lol?
Nothing has changed with the battery issues and I was also told last time that I needed some value covers replaced?
Got some news!!!
SOOO looks like I am leaving the car at the mechanic!
Figured out what is draining the battery. The SAM is corroded and is not properly shutting down when the car is off.
Also, my doors will not lock. The vacuum seal (i think) that is on the driver door has a whole in or is not letting air completely through which is altering all the doors from locking and trunk opening.
They quoted me $1122.00 for the SAM replacement and $996.00 for the repair of the vacuum on the door.
Big issue I am having with it all, is if I get the door fixed..... Another one could do the same and then I would have to do another $966.00 to fix that one.
Does anyone know a bypass/easy fix for these issues?
First: The pneumatic door locks are computer-controlled. If one unit (such as the driver's door) does not function within the programmed time allowed, the computer will shut off that unit and only that unit. Go to the right rear seating area, and find the floor lamp located behind the right rear passenger's heels. Pull the lamp unit out of the carpeted wall - you don't need to unplug it. Look behind the light location, and find the yellow 20-Amp fuse near the inner end of the row. Remove the fuse, and see if it is blown. If so, get a new one and install it. If the fuse is okay, put it back in. This resets the PSE (Pneumatic Service Equipment) computer. Try the doors, and see if any now lock.
If the other three doors lock, you might be willing to manually lock/unlock the driver's door with the metal key until you decide whether or not you really want to continue down this road. Basically, you have a $2500 car that is going to cost you about that much to repair the first couple of problems...
If you are willing to learn to repair such problems yourself, this can be a wonderful car. If you have to pay a shop to do the repairs, this will be expensive.
I just bought a 2003 S500 door lock from my local pull-a-part for $20, and will swap it out myself. The first time you install one, it will take you all day. The next time will take three or four hours. (I have done this a couple of times.) A thousand dollars a day isn't bad pay, especially if, like me, you actually enjoy working on the car.
You can find a good used rear Sam on eBay for $100 and swap it yourself , same with door lock
as was stated if you buy new parts and have a mechanic fix it , this car can bankrupt you
by the way , the reason the rear sam
got corroded is because you have a water entry problem from the reed valve in the engine compartment . If you don’t clean out the reef valve you are going to have more water damage during the next heavy rain
Open the hood. Look at the large black plastic air intake grille under the right corner of the windshield. Use a flashlight to look thru the grille to the bottom of the funnel. If the small drain hole at the bottom is not perfectly clear, make it so.
If the drain is clogged, rain or wash water will fill the funnel, then spill over into the passenger compartment under the carpet and padding. There will be no visible signs of water, but the water will fill the recesses under the carpet, damaging the main power leads and connections, then travel under the carpet to the area under the rear seat, where the rear SAM (Signal Acquisition Module) is installed, causing serious electrical problems.
Yet another problem that is quick, easy and free to prevent, cheap but a bit of hassle to repair DIY, very expensive to have fixed.
It is very easy to block off the supply lines to each door or the trunk. The lines are all Yellow plastic. They can be clamped closed. The PSE computer will not 'like' the fact the electric position switches will not work to indicate position but it will probably still run for the other locks. The pneumatic pressure/vacuum actuators are a common, expensive part failure and they will ALL fail at about the same age. To my knowledge, there is no satisfactory after-market alternative--yet.
I do not understand why MBZ chose this complicated failure prone lock actuator system instead of the much more durable, inexpensive electric actuator systems everyone else uses.
@wallyp I am going to check that fuse behind the right passenger heel as soon as I get it out of the shop. I think for the diagnostic to find what exactly was causing the battery to die is $355. They are a European car repair shop "Momentum Motorworks - not sure if I will get in trouble for sharing the name", but they are here in Pelham and they are who have the car. I do not mind working in the car as long as I can fix it. I have installed lights and switches on my truck and think the Benz would take me a FULL weekend lol.
@tusabes They told me the SAM has to programmed to the car and that is the reason I can not get a used, refurbished, or one from anyone but Mercedes. I am good with buying used one if they are just plug and play.
@wallyp I will be sure to check the engine bay when I get it back to see where I can fix the water entree.
@Kebowers47 They said the door lines need to replaced in the driver door to fix ALL the door locks. I asked for a bypass and they had none.
Once I get it out out of the shop my first thing to check will be the yellow 20 amp fuse in rear heel. I will be sure to keep you all updated, because I am not mechanically inclined to fix ANY of this lol
There is only one line in each door to operate both the door lock and the soft close. If the actuator fails, or the line breaks, the other doors will continue to operate.
Checking the HVAC plenum under the hood is a continuing task, unless you drill a supplemental drain hole in the side of the plenum, which is the fix recommended by Mercedes.
What they told you is partially correct - You absolutely can get a used sam . A new one would need programming but a used one may already be programmed correctly to your car
if you buy the same part number as yours from a car that had the same options, it will be plug and play . You can’t just go by year you need the same part number as yours
the programming part is only if the car it came out it had different options then yours , but all the essential controls like brake lights etc are common to all cars . Chances are a used one if the same part number will need no programming .
@wallyp Gotcha! The soft close has BEEN gone and now I have to hit the lock button on the remote and push the locks down manually for all doors to lock. When I hit the remote and/or hit the locks on the inside of the car, I can hear the pump running in the back.
Once i get it back I do not mind looking more in-depth to fixing all these problems, but HELP WILL be needed. This car has just begun to be a headache and honestly in the situation I am in currently (trying to buy a house) I need to save as much as I can.
@tusabes That makes sense! I wish there was someone local to help with these little hacks so I would not have to take it to major shops for service. They have been helpful do not get me wrong, but the repairs are through the roof!
I would need to know where to search to get the part number. I assume I would have to remove the SAM I have to get the adequate part number. Is that correct?
@wallyp Gotcha! The soft close has BEEN gone and now I have to hit the lock button on the remote and push the locks down manually for all doors to lock. When I hit the remote and/or hit the locks on the inside of the car, I can hear the pump running in the back.
Once i get it back I do not mind looking more in-depth to fixing all these problems, but HELP WILL be needed. This car has just begun to be a headache and honestly in the situation I am in currently (trying to buy a house) I need to save as much as I can.
@tusabes That makes sense! I wish there was someone local to help with these little hacks so I would not have to take it to major shops for service. They have been helpful do not get me wrong, but the repairs are through the roof!
I would need to know where to search to get the part number. I assume I would have to remove the SAM I have to get the adequate part number. Is that correct?
that’s correct . It is easily viewable it’s under your rear seat bottom which comes off in seconds by the tabs on each side of the Rear seat bottom cushion
Got the car back!!! Okay, so I should check the numbers on the SAM to see what I need to buy?
I remember a bit of water spilling on that back seat a couple months ago. I thought that is what messed it up.
I need steps on possibly fixing the door locks and getting a new SAM. I think that is it.
Take off the rear seat bottom and get the part number on the sam . Find same part number on eBay and buy it
the sam gets water damaged from the clogged Reed valve in the engine compartment that allows water to run under the carpeting all the way back . It is a very common problem and if you don’t clean out your Reed Valve now it will happen again and damage your new sam next time it rains
Wally posted detailed info how to clear your reed valve. And here is a video showing you exactly what to do
I checked under the cowl in the engine bay and it was clean. I assume the mechanics cleaned the Reed Valve.
I also got the numbers on the SAM and have pictures of the corroded/water damaged harness that they "think" is causing the problem.
I put the SAM numbers in eBay and it brought up a ton of options. I just want to know which one is the best to buy that will be just a plug and play.
Is there an alternative to using deoxit cleaner? Like any other cleaning solution that will not harm the harness?
Also, lets say I clean it. What is suppose to be different about the functions in the car? What will be the telltale sign that cleaning it worked? They told me that corroded harness is the reason the battery is being drained, because it is not completely/properly shutting down
Crc makes a cheaper electrical contact cleaner at $5 but deoxit is better at $12. There is no way to predict if just cleaning the connections will fix anything, or if the sam is damaged or shorted internally , but you need to clean the harness connections regardless before you fit a new sam. So you can’t skip the cleaning step .
the harness very rarely gets permanently damaged , as long as you clean the harness connections it should be ok - but with that much corrosion it’s likely the internals of the sam shorted out , so a thorough cleaning plus a new sam should fix your issues
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