MY KEYS WILL NOT TURN IN IGNITION!?
most often it’s a weak battery . Or else it’s the ignition switch which you can’t swap unless you change 4 parts - key shifter ignition switch and ecu from a donor car


Loose or faulty battery connection. Check the positive connection and both ends of the ground/earth cable for cleanliness and tightness.
Corroded or loose connection on one of the major primary fuses. One is behind the trunk lining just forward of the battery - it usually doesn't cause a problem, but you need to be aware that it exists. The main possible problem area is under an aluminum cover under the front passenger carpet. If the reed valve at the bottom of the HVAC inlet plenum under the hood gets plugged from debris, water can overflow into the car under the carpet. There will be no visible sign of water! You need to pull the carpet and all padding up and check for any signs of water or corrosion. If you have traces of water or corrosion, you must take care of it, or you will have major problems.
As tubsades says, there are other possibilities - the only way to really see what is going on is to get the car connected to one of the Mercedes diagnostic systems, either at a dealership or at a good independent shop whaic has the system and knows how to use it.
Loose or faulty battery connection. Check the positive connection and both ends of the ground/earth cable for cleanliness and tightness.
Corroded or loose connection on one of the major primary fuses. One is behind the trunk lining just forward of the battery - it usually doesn't cause a problem, but you need to be aware that it exists. The main possible problem area is under an aluminum cover under the front passenger carpet. If the reed valve at the bottom of the HVAC inlet plenum under the hood gets plugged from debris, water can overflow into the car under the carpet. There will be no visible sign of water! You need to pull the carpet and all padding up and check for any signs of water or corrosion. If you have traces of water or corrosion, you must take care of it, or you will have major problems.
As tubsades says, there are other possibilities - the only way to really see what is going on is to get the car connected to one of the Mercedes diagnostic systems, either at a dealership or at a good independent shop whaic has the system and knows how to use it.
Loose or faulty battery connection. Check the positive connection and both ends of the ground/earth cable for cleanliness and tightness.
Corroded or loose connection on one of the major primary fuses. One is behind the trunk lining just forward of the battery - it usually doesn't cause a problem, but you need to be aware that it exists. The main possible problem area is under an aluminum cover under the front passenger carpet. If the reed valve at the bottom of the HVAC inlet plenum under the hood gets plugged from debris, water can overflow into the car under the carpet. There will be no visible sign of water! You need to pull the carpet and all padding up and check for any signs of water or corrosion. If you have traces of water or corrosion, you must take care of it, or you will have major problems.
As tubsades says, there are other possibilities - the only way to really see what is going on is to get the car connected to one of the Mercedes diagnostic systems, either at a dealership or at a good independent shop whaic has the system and knows how to use it.
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I once drove a 1964 VW-Bug back and forth to college (72 mile RT)-4 years, and in the third year at the beginning of fall semester--it acted like a dead battery, but battery tested full, but nothing anywhere in the car. I kicked the bumper--and it would then start and was fine for a few days--then again, and repeating at more frequent intervals,
I began checking all the connections---and found the flat stranded wire battery ground cable, which look pristine and as-new, was 'attached ON_TOP' of the good black anti-corrosion paint and the attaching bolt had been the ground path until it got corroded. I cleaned the paint off and never had that problem again. BTW, the oh-so-weak 6- 'volt headlights and 'high power 'Driving Lights' were significantly brighter then. The lights were finally bright enough to see safely at highway speeds!
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