ESP malfunction visit w/s .. display defective visit w/s
01-10-2021, 09:45 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
ESP malfunction visit w/s .. display defective visit w/s
Hi I have tried the CL page but they are few are far between The parts are common to both these cars so I am hoping you guys can help me.
Hi - my 2003 CL600 (V12 Twin turbo model) has died in me. I do not use it much, more of a hobby car. I keep the battery on maintenance charge, but it has got low on a few occasions. I took it for a run, got the engine up to temp, and gave it a few 'blasts' (amazingly quick cars), got it home, washed it and went to put in in the garage. It would not start - nothing! Error messages came up - ESP malfunction- visit workshop as well as ... Display defective - visit workshop. I have also been having problems with the car not responding to the key fob (not unlocking or locking or starting the engine). Both keys have new batteries and are functioning. I have just replaced the battery as they tell me low voltage can cause all sorts of problems - but that made no difference. The car is now stuck in front of garage and will not start. When I put the key in and turn the dash goes dark and the error messages come up.
Firstly - is there anyway I can override these messages and get the car to my MB tech? Or any ideas what the problem could be. Any help gratefully accepted.
All the best for 2021 - Eddy (New Zealand)
Hi - my 2003 CL600 (V12 Twin turbo model) has died in me. I do not use it much, more of a hobby car. I keep the battery on maintenance charge, but it has got low on a few occasions. I took it for a run, got the engine up to temp, and gave it a few 'blasts' (amazingly quick cars), got it home, washed it and went to put in in the garage. It would not start - nothing! Error messages came up - ESP malfunction- visit workshop as well as ... Display defective - visit workshop. I have also been having problems with the car not responding to the key fob (not unlocking or locking or starting the engine). Both keys have new batteries and are functioning. I have just replaced the battery as they tell me low voltage can cause all sorts of problems - but that made no difference. The car is now stuck in front of garage and will not start. When I put the key in and turn the dash goes dark and the error messages come up.
Firstly - is there anyway I can override these messages and get the car to my MB tech? Or any ideas what the problem could be. Any help gratefully accepted.
All the best for 2021 - Eddy (New Zealand)
01-11-2021, 08:11 AM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
My first guess is that you are losing battery power somewhere.
One important thing to remember is that voltage is NOT power. Think of a main battery cable were every strand save one is broken. Testing with a voltmeter/multimeter/small test light will show full voltage - but there will not be enough power to start the car (or do much of anything else). You can get a better test by making a test light from a headlight bulb - it takes several amps to bring a headlight bulb to full brightness. You can use what we call "zip cord" or "lamp cord" - two stranded connectors in a flexible cable, used to run from a table lamp to the wall outlet for the test light. Add a crocodile clip on one conductor, and a probe or another crocodile clip on the other, with the conductors on the other end connected to the terminals on the bulb. Check it on the battery to make sure that the test light works and that there is actually battery power. Your goal is to start with good battery power, and to then trace forwards to find where you lose the power.
First suggestion is to carefully check all three connections (both battery terminals and the earth) at the battery for tightness and cleanliness.
There is a main fuse connection located (on LHD W220 sedans) just forward of the battery, behind the boot lining. Check for full bulb brightness with one clip on a good chassis or battery earth, the other clip or probe on first the input side of the fuse, then the output side.
On LHD W220 sedans, the next main fuse connection complex is under an aluminum plate under the right front carpet. It is unfortunately common for water to fill the HVAC plenum under the bonnet (due to debris plugging its drain hole), overflow into the interior under the carpet (with NO trace of moisture on top of the carpet!), where it causes corrosion and no end of troubles. If you choose to expose or disassemble these connections after testing, you really, really should disconnect the earth terminal on the battery, as a short-circuit to ground on a main cable can be disastrous.
If all is well here, you may go in either of two directions. First is to get under the car and check each connection on the main cable running to the starter. The other is to go to each of the under-bonnet SAM units and check for power there.
Let us know (in great detail) what you find.
BTW - on the W220, the key fob batteries have nothing whatsoever to do with starting the engine - that power is inductively furnished from the EIS (Electronic Ignition System, the box containing the key fob hole). The fob batteries do power the remote locking system RF functions and IR functions.
Good luck!
One important thing to remember is that voltage is NOT power. Think of a main battery cable were every strand save one is broken. Testing with a voltmeter/multimeter/small test light will show full voltage - but there will not be enough power to start the car (or do much of anything else). You can get a better test by making a test light from a headlight bulb - it takes several amps to bring a headlight bulb to full brightness. You can use what we call "zip cord" or "lamp cord" - two stranded connectors in a flexible cable, used to run from a table lamp to the wall outlet for the test light. Add a crocodile clip on one conductor, and a probe or another crocodile clip on the other, with the conductors on the other end connected to the terminals on the bulb. Check it on the battery to make sure that the test light works and that there is actually battery power. Your goal is to start with good battery power, and to then trace forwards to find where you lose the power.
First suggestion is to carefully check all three connections (both battery terminals and the earth) at the battery for tightness and cleanliness.
There is a main fuse connection located (on LHD W220 sedans) just forward of the battery, behind the boot lining. Check for full bulb brightness with one clip on a good chassis or battery earth, the other clip or probe on first the input side of the fuse, then the output side.
On LHD W220 sedans, the next main fuse connection complex is under an aluminum plate under the right front carpet. It is unfortunately common for water to fill the HVAC plenum under the bonnet (due to debris plugging its drain hole), overflow into the interior under the carpet (with NO trace of moisture on top of the carpet!), where it causes corrosion and no end of troubles. If you choose to expose or disassemble these connections after testing, you really, really should disconnect the earth terminal on the battery, as a short-circuit to ground on a main cable can be disastrous.
If all is well here, you may go in either of two directions. First is to get under the car and check each connection on the main cable running to the starter. The other is to go to each of the under-bonnet SAM units and check for power there.
Let us know (in great detail) what you find.
BTW - on the W220, the key fob batteries have nothing whatsoever to do with starting the engine - that power is inductively furnished from the EIS (Electronic Ignition System, the box containing the key fob hole). The fob batteries do power the remote locking system RF functions and IR functions.
Good luck!
