W220 Lowering: Be Aware of This
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 112
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From: Miami, FL
2000 S500
W220 Lowering: Be Aware of This
I have lowered my car a bit both front and rear. Although it is not "slammed" it does hug the 20x9.5 Lowenharts much better now. Yesterday I started to hear a creaking noise from the suspension near the passenger front. It turned out that lowering the car created negative camber in the alignment and placed more stress on the upper ball joint. Now I have to replace both upper ball joints and realign the car using a camber bolt adjustment kit. So just be aware that if you lower your W220, be sure to get an alignment afterwards. Otherwise you may be out of an extra few hundred to replace ball joints.
Last edited by esntrk1; Aug 28, 2004 at 01:09 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 389
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From: Dix Hills, NY
2000 Mercedes S500
What did you use? I have the RB tech kit and didn't have such a problem. Although I can tell you that we were adjusting the rear suspension with the factory link and apparently we lowered it too much where the car's *** was on the floor. Then raising it back up on the lift we realized the turn angle sensor for the rear had snapped it's arm...When adjusting the rear suspension make sure to do very little at a time.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 112
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From: Miami, FL
2000 S500
I used TWS and the software mod. I think I may have been wrong on this. I took the advice from a suspension guy who said I needed a new upper control arm. I think he was wrong. I called the guys at TWS and they said that the suspension geometry is the same regardless of how much the car is lowered. Then on Sunday I took the car out and tried to isolate the problem myself. I sprayed WD-40 on each joint until I found the problem. It turned out that it was not the upper ball joint. I was however related to the lowering. There is a bracket that goes from the airmatic sensor to the upper control arm. On my car, the ball/socket that connect the lower part of that bracket started squeaking. After I sprayed it, the problem went away. I need to somehow keep that joint well greased. Any suggestions? Also I am going to take the car in and get the camber set correctly.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 112
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From: Miami, FL
2000 S500
I got the TWS kit from The Wheel Supply. But you really don't need that kit. All you need is the sofware mod. That involves connecting a Star Diagnostics computer to your car to adjust the ride height. It is better to do the sofware mod because you can adjust the height in 1mm increments.
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Super Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 687
Likes: 26
From: So Cal
07 GL450, 91 NSX, 12 Prius
RE: the Original post.
You always have to do alignment after lowering for any car. cheap insurance for stability, handling and tire wire.
Software mod would be cool but would the dealer do it for you?
most independent MB shops dont have the computer or they wont do the software lowering.
after investgating the suspension link. I am actually going to make my own lowering kit. similar to the TWS kit. Here are the part I will prob need.
2 L- bracket
2 10mm ball stud
2 nut for the stud
2 longer than oem bolt
4 nut
* bunch of Washers.
There Suspension sensor linkage is not a stressed part at all. it just move with the suspension. Since the Sensor arm is made of Plastic, I am sure it isn't stressed at all.
I'm still looking at the rear lowering linkage but from the picture of the RB tech kit looks like a metal plate with a correctly drill hole would work.
Do It Yourself parts stuff should be under $25 if it works.
RB tech wants $399
TWS wants $250.
I'm not cheap OK. but Just like to DIY and make things
You always have to do alignment after lowering for any car. cheap insurance for stability, handling and tire wire.
Originally Posted by esntrk1
I got the TWS kit from The Wheel Supply. But you really don't need that kit. All you need is the sofware mod. That involves connecting a Star Diagnostics computer to your car to adjust the ride height. It is better to do the sofware mod because you can adjust the height in 1mm increments.
most independent MB shops dont have the computer or they wont do the software lowering.
after investgating the suspension link. I am actually going to make my own lowering kit. similar to the TWS kit. Here are the part I will prob need.
2 L- bracket
2 10mm ball stud
2 nut for the stud
2 longer than oem bolt
4 nut
* bunch of Washers.
There Suspension sensor linkage is not a stressed part at all. it just move with the suspension. Since the Sensor arm is made of Plastic, I am sure it isn't stressed at all.
I'm still looking at the rear lowering linkage but from the picture of the RB tech kit looks like a metal plate with a correctly drill hole would work.
Do It Yourself parts stuff should be under $25 if it works.
RB tech wants $399
TWS wants $250.
I'm not cheap OK. but Just like to DIY and make things
Last edited by fkong777; Nov 23, 2004 at 12:34 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 250
Likes: 4
From: Orange County, CA
2003 SL500, 74 Harley FL, 08 Yukon Denali
hey guys,
i also made my own kit (of sorts), just thought i would add my 2 cents...
i originally purchased the RB Tech kit, but they never actually installed it! sort of a rush job (had AMG kit installed, exhaust, etc) and the guy was cool, so no big deal, but i wasn't going to drive all the way back down there and wait around for 8 hours. anyway,
i ended up removing the original bracket or 'control arm'. i grinded out the stud that is welded on there. i replaced with with a 10 cent screw ( that was longer to allow more adjustment ), then used washers and lock nuts to make the adjustment stick.
the rear is already adjustable. the RB Tech kit includes that predrilled template plate, but it's not necessary.
i even went to MB before starting the project and bought replacement control arms at $30 each just in case i damaged my original ones trying to do this, but didn't need them. they are still in the wrapping.
the whole project cost about $2, and about 1 hr of trial and error with the height.
did this about a year ago, no problems at all. no noises. and with this setup you could practically set it on the ground if you were so inclined.
if anyone needs a pic, let me know and i'll see if i can get my camera up in there.
mike
i also made my own kit (of sorts), just thought i would add my 2 cents...
i originally purchased the RB Tech kit, but they never actually installed it! sort of a rush job (had AMG kit installed, exhaust, etc) and the guy was cool, so no big deal, but i wasn't going to drive all the way back down there and wait around for 8 hours. anyway,
i ended up removing the original bracket or 'control arm'. i grinded out the stud that is welded on there. i replaced with with a 10 cent screw ( that was longer to allow more adjustment ), then used washers and lock nuts to make the adjustment stick.
the rear is already adjustable. the RB Tech kit includes that predrilled template plate, but it's not necessary.
i even went to MB before starting the project and bought replacement control arms at $30 each just in case i damaged my original ones trying to do this, but didn't need them. they are still in the wrapping.
the whole project cost about $2, and about 1 hr of trial and error with the height.
did this about a year ago, no problems at all. no noises. and with this setup you could practically set it on the ground if you were so inclined.
if anyone needs a pic, let me know and i'll see if i can get my camera up in there.
mike
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 687
Likes: 26
From: So Cal
07 GL450, 91 NSX, 12 Prius
Nice.
I have a rotozip and a dremel cutting attachement. $2 is good. Hell I'll prob find some nuts and bolt in my tool box and do it for only the cost of my cheap labor.
BTW how many washer did you use and how much did it lower?
Please attach pics. Thanks.
I have a rotozip and a dremel cutting attachement. $2 is good. Hell I'll prob find some nuts and bolt in my tool box and do it for only the cost of my cheap labor.
BTW how many washer did you use and how much did it lower?
Please attach pics. Thanks.
Last edited by fkong777; Nov 23, 2004 at 11:31 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 687
Likes: 26
From: So Cal
07 GL450, 91 NSX, 12 Prius
Originally Posted by mikeblah
hey guys,
i also made my own kit (of sorts), just thought i would add my 2 cents...
the rear is already adjustable. the RB Tech kit includes that predrilled template plate, but it's not necessary.
if anyone needs a pic, let me know and i'll see if i can get my camera up in there.
mike
i also made my own kit (of sorts), just thought i would add my 2 cents...
the rear is already adjustable. the RB Tech kit includes that predrilled template plate, but it's not necessary.
if anyone needs a pic, let me know and i'll see if i can get my camera up in there.
mike
Where is the rear adjustment. I looked all under back there and couldn't see a linkage to a sensor. Can you snap a pic for the rear linkage?
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 250
Likes: 4
From: Orange County, CA
2003 SL500, 74 Harley FL, 08 Yukon Denali
hey fkong
i should be able to get those pics for you soon...
as for the washers, maybe 4 or 5 regular (thickness) washers.
i have 20s on the car and the gap is about 3/4 of an inch between the tire and the fender.
mike
i should be able to get those pics for you soon...
as for the washers, maybe 4 or 5 regular (thickness) washers.
i have 20s on the car and the gap is about 3/4 of an inch between the tire and the fender.
mike
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Canada
too many to list
hey mike i wanted to ask you because i read you have 20"s on the car so how stiff does the ride become..does it get uncomfortable and is there a chance you can damage your suspensions..
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 250
Likes: 4
From: Orange County, CA
2003 SL500, 74 Harley FL, 08 Yukon Denali
hey lexino
well, the ride is fine, but you definitely feel the difference when you put 35 series tires on a car.
i don't remember the last time i had anything but low profile tires on a car, but you do feel the road quite a bit more.
when the tires are new, they ride a little nicer, but as they get older and harder you can tell the difference.
well, the ride is fine, but you definitely feel the difference when you put 35 series tires on a car.
i don't remember the last time i had anything but low profile tires on a car, but you do feel the road quite a bit more.
when the tires are new, they ride a little nicer, but as they get older and harder you can tell the difference.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Canada
too many to list
thanx mike that was very informative, i do not have the technical know how to create my own lowering system so what is out there that you would suggest keeping in mind that everyone is on a tight budget for this particular mod.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 250
Likes: 4
From: Orange County, CA
2003 SL500, 74 Harley FL, 08 Yukon Denali
Hey Lexino
I would suggest the RB Tech kit. It's Around $250 to $300 and that's what i went off of to make my alterations...
FKong-
as soon as i get my car back from the dealership i'll be sure to post one for you... sorry for the delay. i am hoping to see it again on monday...
mike
I would suggest the RB Tech kit. It's Around $250 to $300 and that's what i went off of to make my alterations...
FKong-
as soon as i get my car back from the dealership i'll be sure to post one for you... sorry for the delay. i am hoping to see it again on monday...
mike
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 250
Likes: 4
From: Orange County, CA
2003 SL500, 74 Harley FL, 08 Yukon Denali
hey guys
here is a pic of the rear adjustment linkage. It is near the rear driver side wheel. you will need to jack up the car at the rear driver side and then look up in there. The Adjustment Nut in the middle needs to be slightly loosened and then move spread the sliders apart (now i forget if it's apart or together, but try apart and see where that gets you) just about 1/4" and see what that does. you will need to righten the adjustment nut and then drive the car a little bit to see where it settles...
i'll try to snap a few of the rest of the car...
here is a pic of the rear adjustment linkage. It is near the rear driver side wheel. you will need to jack up the car at the rear driver side and then look up in there. The Adjustment Nut in the middle needs to be slightly loosened and then move spread the sliders apart (now i forget if it's apart or together, but try apart and see where that gets you) just about 1/4" and see what that does. you will need to righten the adjustment nut and then drive the car a little bit to see where it settles...
i'll try to snap a few of the rest of the car...
Last edited by mikeblah; Nov 30, 2004 at 11:19 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 250
Likes: 4
From: Orange County, CA
2003 SL500, 74 Harley FL, 08 Yukon Denali
here is one of just the rear wheel and quarter panel to give you an idea of the way it sits.
but using that adjustment, you can pretty much go as high or as low as you'd like...
i know, my wheel wells are dirty... haha
but using that adjustment, you can pretty much go as high or as low as you'd like...
i know, my wheel wells are dirty... haha
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 250
Likes: 4
From: Orange County, CA
2003 SL500, 74 Harley FL, 08 Yukon Denali
oh no problem, let me know if there is anything else you might need.
do you still need pictures of the front linkage alterations?
oh and on the rear linkage, the metal plates that slide to make the adjustment have ridges so if you loosen it up just a little, you can slide them one 'click' at a time. 4 or 5 clicks will make quite a difference.
anyway, let me know what you need.
mike
do you still need pictures of the front linkage alterations?
oh and on the rear linkage, the metal plates that slide to make the adjustment have ridges so if you loosen it up just a little, you can slide them one 'click' at a time. 4 or 5 clicks will make quite a difference.
anyway, let me know what you need.
mike
