Jakal702

Hello all,
I’m considering buying a 2005 S500 with about 140k miles. The car had been sitting for about 9 months without being started. Obviously the battery was dead so the owner jumped it and it started, but once he shut the car off it would not restart. I decided to drop a battery in it to see if it would start with that, but it did not crank or start. All other systems worked fine and my (basic) scanner did not pick up any codes that would cause a check engine light or make the car unable to run. We tried to push the car out of the street spot it was in to get it towed, but the car would not shift from park. Could anyone tell me what the issue might be and if it would be worth it to buy?
Thanks in advance

tusabes

Main fuses under passenger floor panel blew

Jakal702

You think that it needs a jump? The fact that I put a new battery in it and it didn’t start led me to believe that something else was wrong.

Jakal702

it did not crank or start with the new battery but all other electrical systems worked. The car also seemed to be sitting at normal level and not slammed to the ground due to problems with airmatic

tusabes

You didn’t read what I said . The fuses are located below the floor panel and the video just shows where they are located . I did not tell you to jump
It

Jakal702

my bad... I thought you meant jump it from there... would you know which one the starter fuse is? It sounded like it there was a few clicks when I turned the key to the start position but I’m not sure if it was the starter. There was no fuse box diagram when I checked it out, but I did check the fuel pump fuse (and heard the hum) and there was no issue with it.

tusabes

The main fuses are in the black plastic box under the aluminum floor panel . They are not normal fuses you can buy at the auto parts store - they are huge high amperage fuses you might need to get from a junkyard car or a high end car stereo store

Jakal702

Oh ok that’s good to know... I’m not too familiar with Mercedes so I appreciate the help. Is one of those fuses directly to the starter? If not, which should I be checking specifically?

maw1124

Sometimes the battery needs to sit and charge all the modules for a while. Also check and probable replace the crank position sensor if it hasn’t been changed already.

Cheers,

maw

Jakal702

Would the CPS cause no no crank/start at all? And the inability to shift? As far as I know, it has not been replaced. Thanks

maw1124

Yes. They’re cheap and known to go without warning or code. I keep one in my glove box. Has the battery been in overnight yet?

maw

Jakal702

I didn’t leave the battery in overnight, but the owner left the car running in his driveway for a while I was on the phone and a for a while after once he jumped it. I know the car will need a new battery regardless though due to it sitting.

tusabes

A cps will not prevent cranking , that makes no sense . A car with a bad cps will crank and crank but never start

Jakal702

The owner told me today that with a booster pack hooked up he was able to get the car in neutral and is taking it to the mechanic. If it’s not the cps could it be the brake light switch? That’s what I’m finding after doing some research. The other issue I do see is that it may be a problem with the EIS, but if that was the case, wouldn’t the key not turn? I will be going to look at the car again soon but it will be a few days due to snow in the area.

tusabes

It could be any part of the immobilize system but more likely it’s the main fuses under the floor as I’ve said 4 times

Jakal702

Do you know which fuses specifically? I ask because I’d like to switch them out next time I go to look at the car. Thanks again for the help

tusabes

Omg why do I need to keep repeating myself ?

watch the video I posted it shows you where the fuses are located in the box under the passenger floor . You can’t get these fuses at an auto parts store you’ll need to get them from a junk car or speciality stereo store

Jakal702

right I watched the video but I must be missing the fuses you are speaking of. Are they big black boxes the wires are going to? The video doesn’t go close up on them so I can’t really see. If so I’ve never seen a fuse like that before, I’m not too familiar with these cars.

tusabes

Yes It’s the black box the big red wires are going into

Jakal702

Ok great... would you say the car is worth the buy? How much is the cost of replacing those (roughly) and is it safe to use secondhand fuses?

tusabes

Why Are you wasting our time ? Who knows what else is wrong with the car . Only you can figure it out

Jakal702

how am I wasting your time? The only thing I know about these cars is that they are complicated so I’m trying to eliminate possible issues before buying this car. Car has no codes on any of the modules I’ve read, so I’m just asking if this would be a fix that would cost more than what the car would be worth after the fix. You also don’t have to reply. I appreciate the advice you’ve given and thanked you multiple times. I’m not sure what you’d like me to do

tusabes

The questions you are asking are ridiculous. How can anyone who has never seen the car determine whether it’s worth it . You posted no pic no price no mileage no details except that it won’t start . Common no start problems are fuse or immobilizer related . Could cost $20 for a used fuse block or $350 for a matched used set of used key , eis, shifter and ecu, to $3000* or more for new parts coded by a Mercedes dealer

once you get it started , that’s just the beginning . how do we know what other problems it has ? Have to get it running first to see what else maybe wrong . I’m sure that isn’t the only problem with the car . So your question is ridiculous .

If you think An obd2 code scanner is capable of diagnosing a nonrunning Mercedes you shouldn’t be buying any Mercedes . It’s useless for diagnosing a Mercedes . it only helps with emissions related codes .

At a minimum you need a foxwell nt510 with the Mercedes software or a true star Diagnosis system (the factory repair computer system )

maw1124

I'm going back to my original advice, which was that the battery needs to charge the various modules before the car will work. These safety anti-theft modules are last in that chain. Have the seller hook up a new battery from now until you go see the car. My best guess is it'll work just fine. If not, have a CPS just in case. Then you can decide what the car is worth. These are stout cars that respond to service better than any I've ever seen. I have friends who routinely buy SClass "flood" cars, because with a good drying out, change of fluids and spark plugs, away they go like nothing ever happened. If the car starts and runs, has good service records, seems like it's been taken care of, and the only problem is it's been sitting for a spell, you can figure a price from there based upon mileage, etc.

GL

maw

tusabes

S class “flood cars” are never in a actual flood . They simply get their electronics Damaged by rain or a car wash , and insurance totals the car . And the auction notes as flood damage. That’s why it’s easy to revive them .

they have a Reed valve which clogs and lets water enter the passenger compartment, short circuiting the SAM