S-Class (W220) 1999-2006: S 320 CDI, S 320, S430, S 500, S 600

Airmatic problems

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Old Mar 28, 2023 | 11:56 PM
  #26  
96_C280's Avatar
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From: San Diego, CA
06 S430
Did you ever figure out the issue? My front left won't go up. Pump activates and other shocks raise as well. Should mention my rear is all the way up now. Probably trying to compensate for the front left being down to axle. Have warning message. Esp and all that jumbo is out too. Getting the "implausible strut" message on Launch scanner.
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Old Mar 29, 2023 | 02:08 AM
  #27  
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From: Hobart, WA
1999 E320, 2001 S430
Originally Posted by 96_C280
Did you ever figure out the issue? My front left won't go up. Pump activates and other shocks raise as well. Should mention my rear is all the way up now. Probably trying to compensate for the front left being down to axle. Have warning message. Esp and all that jumbo is out too. Getting the "implausible strut" message on Launch scanner.
Have you checked it with a Star Diagnostic System? It could be a bad valve, a bad strut, or a leak in the line to that wheel. SDS has tests that will pinpoint the problem.

I still haven't solved my problem, except to note that it definitely happens when it's cold, and fortunately it never bottoms out the tires so I ignore it. I suspect I need new struts, so I'm saving my dimes and nickels.
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Old Mar 29, 2023 | 10:32 AM
  #28  
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From: Ball Ground, GA (N of Atlanta)
2003 S500 2007 GL450
"I still haven't solved my problem, except to note that it definitely happens when it's cold..."

There is a known problem with Airmatic and cold.

The air inlet/exit port on the compressor has a molded rubber connector which is known to eventually perish from age, often in a hidden location on the inner side of the connector. The line from that connector runs to a small air filter (it's actually an inline fuel filter!) that is sometimes inserted up into a pocket in the chassis, sometimes clipped to the side of the radiator. The system is designed to prevent the entry of dust and water into the Airmatic system through the inlet air. A failed rubber connector will allow dirt and water to enter the system. The air (both inlet and outlet) goes through a chamber in the compressor that contains dessicant beads. Continued water entry will eventually soak the dessicant, and you get water in the system.

In addition to causing internal corrosion, water in the valve block will freeze in cold weather, locking the valves or causing leakage. Random dropping or raising often results.

Correction includes correcting all inlet/outlet tube leaks, and, if the problem has existed long enough, removing and disassembling the compressor to replace the dessicant beads. If the corrosion has damaged the solenoid valves in the valve block, replacement might be required as well.
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Old Mar 29, 2023 | 02:26 PM
  #29  
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From: Hobart, WA
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I replaced the valve almost three years ago and I replaced the filter at that time. I don't recall if I replaced the hose, but I certainly inspected it. You're confirming my suspicion that the desiccant could be the culprit. I'll probably replace it when the weather improves. The question is, should I just replace the whole pump? Replacing the pump would probably be easier.
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Old Mar 30, 2023 | 01:58 AM
  #30  
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From: San Diego, CA
06 S430
Man my car is crazy. I tried doing a diagnostic with Xentry Port thru but it would not communicate with my Tactrix device... But the damn shock decided to finally raise to a decent point. Hopefully it's not on the ground in the morning. The rear seems to be wanting to raise all the way up again though 😫😫 My pump is starting to make a grinding sound now.. 🤦‍♂️
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