S-Class (W220) 1999-2006: S 320 CDI, S 320, S430, S 500, S 600

Using washers to drop the car.

Old Nov 14, 2011 | 11:24 PM
  #101  
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Ok, once again this threads coming to the top.

Firstly, a big thanks to fkong777 for starting this thread, a cheap way of lowering that does exactly the same as the expensive stuff but for literally a fraction of the cost . . . . . . a man of after my own heart!

But im wanting to try this on my 2004 S55, with ABC.

This may sound rather silly, but since i dont know my way round the car yet (only had it a couple of weeks), can some one please tell me where the front adjustable links are? Are they at the top of the wheel arch or towards the bottom of the strut?

Once i know what im looking at il be able to do this quite easily.

Not knocking our man who started the thread but a few basic pictures of the process would have done wonders.

Thanks anyway.
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 09:08 PM
  #102  
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washer update - no grinding needed

sup gang, resurrecting this thread with an update on lowering car.

1. locate original ride height sensor arm / ball joint
2. longer screws with nuts and alot of washers.
3. L bracket*

pictures -









dont forget to add washers (original method)

happy screwing!! enjoy!
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 01:31 AM
  #103  
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S55K AMG
2004 S55 AMG with ABC.

Ok, iv found the ride height sensors and i know how to do the fronts, no probs.

The only problem is that my car has 2 sensors at the back aswell, one on each side, how do i adjust these, with washers aswell? If so where do i place the washers on them?

All along this thread it seemed like there would be something in the middle of the car at the back that needed to be moved a few notches, but now it turns out mines got individual sensors on each corner.
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 01:54 AM
  #104  
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Pinto
Thumbs down

This kind of mod is not safe. What if the washers or the nuts come off?

Just spend $300 buy the links and get it right.
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 10:28 AM
  #105  
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this for the cheap folks or perhaps the curious one, i took these pics as a tutorial for a buddy who cant understand in words, yes its dangerous and adding more screws and nuts extends the risk of failing (more failure points) so i suggest people here to use this method at your own risk!!
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 10:38 AM
  #106  
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2001 S430
Originally Posted by w4sim
2004 S55 AMG with ABC.

Ok, iv found the ride height sensors and i know how to do the fronts, no probs.

The only problem is that my car has 2 sensors at the back aswell, one on each side, how do i adjust these, with washers aswell? If so where do i place the washers on them?

All along this thread it seemed like there would be something in the middle of the car at the back that needed to be moved a few notches, but now it turns out mines got individual sensors on each corner.
dude, you own a 04 s55!! dont go cheap route with this car, i have a 01 s430 so i keep it cheap until i get a better one but honestly get links or program it!!!
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 05:07 AM
  #107  
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I am using the washers but after reading all this I went ahead and ordered the links for my car.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 02:11 PM
  #108  
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SL55, S500
Airmatic links are much cheaper than the ABC ones.

Im using Adjustable Air Ride links.
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 03:40 AM
  #109  
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OP here,
Update. Last pictures of the car. Traded for a GL450

no issue with shocks. never failed.
Wheels were minutes from coming off the car.

for the ones advocating links. the washer and bracket are not unsafe. It is not a stress link. it is merely for angling the sensor in reference to height.

Using washers to drop the car.-imag0375.jpg
Using washers to drop the car.-imag0374.jpg
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 05:03 AM
  #110  
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W220
Originally Posted by fkong777
OP here,
Update. Last pictures of the car. Traded for a GL450

no issue with shocks. never failed.
Wheels were minutes from coming off the car.

for the ones advocating links. the washer and bracket are not unsafe. It is not a stress link. it is merely for angling the sensor in reference to height.


love those wheels, where did you buy them at? and how much? im planning on getting a set too. would you sell me yours?
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 07:29 AM
  #111  
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Mrr hr3 are what those wheels are called. Look awesome!
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 01:52 AM
  #112  
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Yes they are MRR HR3 20x8.5 and 20x9.5
It took some work to get the 9.5 on the rear.
Need a 10mm spacer the clear the rear brake.
also have to remove some material where the bumper and rear quarter meets.

the look is worth it tho. the rear concave more than the front.
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 08:38 PM
  #113  
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anybody make a Tutorial on this? step by step with pics?
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 12:32 PM
  #114  
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Yeah, I would like to see a bit more detail on this as well. Also any reports from anyone who has done this.
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 04:18 PM
  #115  
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Keep on MODDING guys!!
The ride looks GREAT!
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 09:41 PM
  #116  
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Excellent thread! Just saw it.

Last edited by VMAX7; Dec 1, 2014 at 08:24 AM. Reason: More knowledge
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 01:30 AM
  #117  
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https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...g-aware-2.html

The OP of the linked thread had a false alarm, i put it here to give more background to this thread as it seems to be the inspiration for OP of this current thread.
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 01:39 AM
  #118  
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https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...t-sensors.html

This is even better.
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 08:21 AM
  #119  
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Just played with the washer lowering method, i understand it now but I cant get the 10mm nut off the rod, the ball joint keeps spinning in the other end of the rod.

I used a long nose pliers to grip and hold the ball joint while loosening the nut but it just spins perpetually.

What exactly did u guys use on this? Im so close but yet so far..
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 10:23 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by Vmaxx
Just played with the washer lowering method, i understand it now but I cant get the 10mm nut off the rod, the ball joint keeps spinning in the other end of the rod.

I used a long nose pliers to grip and hold the ball joint while loosening the nut but it just spins perpetually.

What exactly did u guys use on this? Im so close but yet so far..

I used a small spanner (wrench) that came with my kid's electric scooter. It is made out of stamped steel and cut out in wrench shape. I suppose an inexpensive bicycle tool would work too. From memory I believe the opening is 10mm.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 06:00 PM
  #121  
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Great idea ill try that, thanks!
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 09:31 AM
  #122  
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So I just noticed that my passenger rear is higher than the driver side rear, and my ride height sensor arm adjustment thingy is rusty.

Id like to plug it out, spray it with electronic cleaner and plug it back in.
Plugging out the sensor w/o adjusting the arm any clicks will that cause the rear struts to collapse? Im apprehensive to touch it.

Worse case ill have to buy a new rear adjuster arm, if i can wd40 the rusty arm and make it like new then ill be happy.
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 11:11 AM
  #123  
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dealers sell the rear adjustable arms for about $ 30
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 11:50 AM
  #124  
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There is only one ride height sensor on the rear, so that shouldn't be the reason that the right rear is higher than the left rear.

Each front strut has a ride height sensor.

The ride height of each corner is individually adjustable using DAS (the STAR system).
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 06:01 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by wallyp
There is only one ride height sensor on the rear, so that shouldn't be the reason that the right rear is higher than the left rear.
I presume your car is Airmatic?
Is the ride height sensor attached to the sway bar?
ABC cars don't have sway bars, so they have two rear sensors.

Nick
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