Using washers to drop the car.
Firstly, a big thanks to fkong777 for starting this thread, a cheap way of lowering that does exactly the same as the expensive stuff but for literally a fraction of the cost . . . . . . a man of after my own heart!

But im wanting to try this on my 2004 S55, with ABC.
This may sound rather silly, but since i dont know my way round the car yet (only had it a couple of weeks), can some one please tell me where the front adjustable links are? Are they at the top of the wheel arch or towards the bottom of the strut?
Once i know what im looking at il be able to do this quite easily.
Not knocking our man who started the thread but a few basic pictures of the process would have done wonders.
Thanks anyway.
Ok, iv found the ride height sensors and i know how to do the fronts, no probs.
The only problem is that my car has 2 sensors at the back aswell, one on each side, how do i adjust these, with washers aswell? If so where do i place the washers on them?
All along this thread it seemed like there would be something in the middle of the car at the back that needed to be moved a few notches, but now it turns out mines got individual sensors on each corner.
Ok, iv found the ride height sensors and i know how to do the fronts, no probs.
The only problem is that my car has 2 sensors at the back aswell, one on each side, how do i adjust these, with washers aswell? If so where do i place the washers on them?
All along this thread it seemed like there would be something in the middle of the car at the back that needed to be moved a few notches, but now it turns out mines got individual sensors on each corner.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




Update. Last pictures of the car. Traded for a GL450
no issue with shocks. never failed.
Wheels were minutes from coming off the car.
for the ones advocating links. the washer and bracket are not unsafe. It is not a stress link. it is merely for angling the sensor in reference to height.






It took some work to get the 9.5 on the rear.
Need a 10mm spacer the clear the rear brake.
also have to remove some material where the bumper and rear quarter meets.
the look is worth it tho. the rear concave more than the front.
The OP of the linked thread had a false alarm, i put it here to give more background to this thread as it seems to be the inspiration for OP of this current thread.
I used a long nose pliers to grip and hold the ball joint while loosening the nut but it just spins perpetually.
What exactly did u guys use on this? Im so close but yet so far..
I used a long nose pliers to grip and hold the ball joint while loosening the nut but it just spins perpetually.
What exactly did u guys use on this? Im so close but yet so far..
I used a small spanner (wrench) that came with my kid's electric scooter. It is made out of stamped steel and cut out in wrench shape. I suppose an inexpensive bicycle tool would work too. From memory I believe the opening is 10mm.
Id like to plug it out, spray it with electronic cleaner and plug it back in.
Plugging out the sensor w/o adjusting the arm any clicks will that cause the rear struts to collapse? Im apprehensive to touch it.
Worse case ill have to buy a new rear adjuster arm, if i can wd40 the rusty arm and make it like new then ill be happy.


Each front strut has a ride height sensor.
The ride height of each corner is individually adjustable using DAS (the STAR system).
Is the ride height sensor attached to the sway bar?
ABC cars don't have sway bars, so they have two rear sensors.
Nick












