I have a 2007 s550 amg package with 48000 miles and I just put on 4 new ContiProContact tires with original specifications. My car was always pulling a little to the right and I thought that by installing new tires and doing alignment this will go away. I did everything and the MB dealer and it is still pulling to the right. They are telling me that it’s because of the road and MB follows the curves on the road.

Is that true? Is anyone else experience a slight pull to the right when driving? What should I do???

BTW, this forum RULES!!! I have learned a lot from here. Keep up the great job!

 

Did they provide you with an invoice that showed the alignment parameters? Are you confident that they actually did an alignment. Did they charge you for balancing the tires. I am assuming that you have the stock 19" wheels with the stock 40 series profile...

Lower profile tires tend to tramline or follow the natural groove in the road. However I am certain that you can find some section of new road that you are sure is not grooved and try to see if it pulls to either side.

Another tell tale that they didn't balance the wheels properly is if you observe any vibrations in the steering wheel at higher speeds.

Pulling to either side is not normal if you have a known good road, and even with a grooved road, it should pull to either side and not always to the right.

I would take your wheels to a high end tire shop to have them look at it. Call tire rack and ask them if they can recommend someone in your area.

 

Our 2007 S550 has always pulled to the right slightly. It never bothered the first set of tires. They looked fine when we replaced them, except for being worn down.

 

I am really glad you posted this. I bought my car with 22's on it. It pulled to the right and the steering wheel seemed a little justified to the right. I put some stock tires on it for the purposes of taking it in for alignment. I went to an independent shop that always did great work on my other cars - but all they managed to do was make my steering wheel justified to the left. The problem with pulling to the right remains. Yesterday I took it to a VERY reputable shop that is pricey, but regularly services and modifies super high end vehicles. They test drove the car, took it in the back and 30 minutes later handed me spec sheet explaining that the problem is my camber. My car is lowered with a Renntech module, but that can be switched off and it does not change the issue. They told me that there is no adjustability for the amount my camber was off and suggested I take it to the dealer to make sure everything is in spec.

I was actually thinking about posting something like this myself - because it is a perplexing issue, and I think I want to sell this car soon because I am bored with it. I do not foresee explaining to potential buyers that the steering will be a chronic issue. I looked through the service bulletins but did not find any solution. I doubt warranty will help me because of the lowering module, but I really don't care. If I can figure out what parts are faulty I would be more than happy to replace them myself and have it put back on the rack.

I can promise you that this issue has NOTHING to do with the road. I live in Orange County, Ca. - and the roads are immaculate here (in my city). I have tried 2 sets of rims all with brand new tires and the problem was exactly the same, so that is also not the culprit.

The specs they gave me were as follows:
Camber - In degrees - (L) -0.8 / (R) -1.9
Spec would be - -1.1 to 0.4

Obviously for my application the pulling to the right and the severity of the specs on my right camber seem synonymous.


My car has approx. 44,000 miles.

 

I have an 07 S550 with the AMG package and it does not pull right. They do follow the pitch of the road just like other cars that I have had with larger tires. Seems normal.

 

2007 S550 here and it pulls to the right. Thought I was going crazy until I read this post. I also hear a low thumping noise inside the car when i gently pushing the breaks.

 

anybody ever figure this pull to the right out? i have the same issue (w215 cl600) here (attached) is my spec sheet from the dealer that says, all in spec. I have even cross rotated the tires (dismount, swap, mount and balance) to be sure it was not a tire pull. its not....

 

A properly aligned car will not drift or pull right noticeably. All cars naturally follow the crown in the road and the alignment compensates for this so that the car tracks straight despite the crown. Over a long enough distance with no intervention from the driver the car will gradually work its way down from the crown to the shoulder, but if you feel a pull while you're holding the wheel, and the car heads for the shoulder if you let go of the wheel, there's a problem.

Mercedes sets minimum specs for alignments and one performed at a dealership should come with a report showing pre and post measurements. Measurements in spec will show in green and out of spec red.

 

The spec sheet you supplied clearly shows front axle camber is out of tolerance. In addition, it shows the left side is further out of tolerance after correction than it originally was. I would demand they refund the alignment cost or properly perform an alignment to bring all parameters into spec.

 

When alignment is within specs and this stil occurs ,please check your respective strut heights in Star and adjust so that FL and FR are exactly the same.. Mine where off 2 mm, the right side being lower.. the same for the rear struts( different values).
Also: write down values when you start, so you know what you are doing and not end up riding too low or too high, stay roughly at standard values and should be fine.
I do not recall the values nor have I kept notes.
It took me an hour or so to get it right because, if you adjust rear it influences front and vice versa.
Since adjusted ,my W221 goes in a straight line.
No more pull to the right which it used to do before the strut adjustment.

 

Since the mid 90's model’s there has been no accurate Camber and Caster adjustment facility fitted OEM!

Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe.

To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, fix steering pull the only alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts.
But these are inaccurate one only position bolts with a minuscule .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm).

After installation it's no wonder many owners then go on to stating dealerships or alignment shops still did not get it right/fix the problem.

We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front suspension for virtually all models.

The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of the one position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike the bolts can be accurately adjusted - under load, direct on alignment turntable (no need to jack and reinstall each time).

Ongoing precise adjustment of both Camber and Caster settings if altering suspension height, fitting wide profile tires/wheels or for curb knock damage with the unique K-MAC patented design is just a single wrench/no disassembly.

For the rear, similar kits for precise Camber adjustment with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility. Unlike adjustable arms K-MAC rear kits do not move top of tire outwards reducing all important clearance to outer fender when adjusting to reduce premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.

Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are designed with twice the load bearing area and also replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.

 

Caster is far more likely to cause a pull than camber. Since the Move to sub-frames, the caster dimension rearely goes out of alignment unless there is an issue with the sub-frame. As an alignment is a relatively inexpensive procedure, I would take my car to an idependent shop that specializes in front end work. Have them perform the alignment. If it fixes your issue, submit your invoice to your dealership, and show them the difference in the specs they measured and the correct specs set by the independent shop. I have done this in the past with other vehicles. The dealer's alignment machine may need a calibration. Unfortuneatley, most shops do not spring for the cost of the calibration until they start receiving complaints from multiple customers.

 

I have current air/leveling/allignment issues for sure. I was with the MB techs and the fresh allignment values would change after one drive around the block. Settings would change and not hold. We were all agreeing air was the issue. I needed the car so we deciced to finish another time....but soon.

My 221 will bleed air like an 18 wheeler. Its loud. Sounds like the source is the RF. My guess....that is my allignment culprit.

The pull to the right is gentle but constant. None of my other vehicles on the same roads have this issue.

 

yesterday I noticed my front passenger side tire was straight but my driver side front was slightly turned in. Is that a axle problem or is it because I got both of my control arms done?

 

Have it aligned, sounds like a toe adjustment issue.