Big Audio Upgrade, EQ For Pandora, Streaming Bluetooth for around $100
Just went and took a look at my clarion settings (on a clarion EQS746) and they're nothing phenomenal by any means which makes me think more tweaking could improve it but here it goes:
Sub Level: 8
Volume: All the way up
50Hz: 2
125Hz: 12
315Hz, 750Hz, 2.2KHz: 1
6KHz, 16KHz: 2
And the Comand settings:
Logic 7: Turned On
Treble: +4
Bass: +6
Some songs have crazy good bass that makes me think the whole system was redone, some songs are still lacking so it makes me think it's just not a good recording because clearly the settings were good for the previous song. Once you have this setup, you'll never go back, even if you lose steering wheel command. The bass alone that awakens is phenomenal.
Just went and took a look at my clarion settings (on a clarion EQS746) and they're nothing phenomenal by any means which makes me think more tweaking could improve it but here it goes:
Sub Level: 8
Volume: All the way up
50Hz: 2
125Hz: 12
315Hz, 750Hz, 2.2KHz: 1
6KHz, 16KHz: 2
And the Comand settings:
Logic 7: Turned On
Treble: +4
Bass: +6
Some songs have crazy good bass that makes me think the whole system was redone, some songs are still lacking so it makes me think it's just not a good recording because clearly the settings were good for the previous song. Once you have this setup, you'll never go back, even if you lose steering wheel command. The bass alone that awakens is phenomenal.
As far as recordings go, some have better production than others. Steely Dan's Aja is considered a high water mark in terms of production. Fleetwood Mac's Rumours and Tango In The Night are also excellent for showing off your system. Pink Floyd's Dark Side Of The Moon and The Wall. Also pretty much anything mastered at Sound City, where a lot of great classic rock albums were live tracked using a very rare hand built Neve analog mixing board sound good. There's a great documentary about Sound City (and the death of real live tracked analog recording) just out on BluRay. It's fascinating.
Also check out the film "Muscle Shoals" about the group of studio musicians in a tiny shack of a recording studio in Alabama who played behind on so many rock, country and R&B hits you lose track.
Here's the tuning I use:
On the COMAND, push Bass and Treble all the way. It gives the Clarion more range to work with. Also you can make minor adjustments on the COMAND instead of having to go into the glovebox. Logic 7 is good.
On the Clarion, make sure FADER is all the way toward whichever output you chose (Front or Rear)
50Hz: Low bass. A little here goes a long way. Play something with a defined kick drum (Fleetwood Mac's "Don't Stop" works well as a tuning song) and push it up just a little until the doors start to rattle and then back it down until it behaves.
125Hz: Mid bass. This is where you can add or subtract a lot of power. I'd push this up to just where the bass gets too loose and then back it off a little.
315Hz, 750Hz, 2.2KHz: Midrange. These are the frequencies that are overemphasized in the stock system so leave them in the basement at zero as you have them.
6KHz: Mid Highs: Zero, unless the high end sounds muddy. Push them up a little until the cymbal sound is overly bright and prominent and then come down a bit until it smooths out.
16KHz: Highs. Here's where you'll restore the presence and detail you lost when you attenuated the Midrange. Try this at 50% and push it up until it sounds artificially bright and then back it down until its smooth.
The 6khz and 16khz work together to put the "life" back into the sound. 6khz is close to the mids so use that sparingly and let the 16khz do the heavy lifting.
You didn't mention the COMAND fader but I'm presuming its dead center. If the mix sounds good but just a little too bright and "shimmery", try fading back one or two positions. It pulls signal out of the front door mids, as well as the center channel in the dash.
Spotify is at 320kb is excellent. What's your source device? Have you tried adding the Fiio headphone amp for a tighter low end and more available gain, or are you running straight from the Clarion?
Last edited by Mike5215; May 15, 2014 at 10:28 PM.
(CLICK HERE)
It's an Amazon Wish List with all of the components needed for the EQ mod. Note that the HRT Istreamer only applies to installations for IPhone/Ipod. Omit this item if setting up for Android.
This assumes you already have a 12v receptacle in the glove box (2010). Add a 12v receptacle for 2007-2009.
Last edited by Mike5215; May 16, 2014 at 03:07 PM. Reason: Took Wish List down temporarily for editing
1. Make sure to splice off and connect part of the EQ's 12v power line to the "remote" port on the back of the EQ. I failed to notice this detail in Mike's diagram for about half an hour and was convinced I had received a bad EQ unit (I had not). On that note, to those having difficulty finding a 12v plug with binding posts (I did), radio shack has them in store for $11.99. I ordered the rest of the stuff from Amazon for a total cost of about $135.
2. For those using the Bluetooth adapter, if you have an iPhone it may not pair the first time IF the unit is plugged in and charging. Figured this out after 20 minutes of not being able to pair the device on my iPhone. Unplugged it for a few seconds and it paired no problem. Now it is plugged in constantly and there have been no issues.
That's all. I echo the comments others have made on this mod--it makes a BIG DIFFERENCE in sound quality and is well worth the money and effort. Thanks again.
I also used to have and integrated iPod kit and my aux yellow red and white chords audio jacks were hijacked by the ipod kit. It was super easy to remove.
Amazon.com: Car Wifi Mirabox, Wireless Airplay, Miracast, Allshare Cast, Screen Mirroring for Smart Phones, RCA Output for Car Video: Electronics Amazon.com: Car Wifi Mirabox, Wireless Airplay, Miracast, Allshare Cast, Screen Mirroring for Smart Phones, RCA Output for Car Video: Electronics
I also used to have and integrated iPod kit and my aux yellow red and white chords audio jacks were hijacked by the ipod kit. It was super easy to remove.
This is a device that displays your smartphone screen on the COMAND unit. Unfortunately it uses a low resolution composite video connection which looks pretty horrible on the relatively high res COMAND, and it does nothing to improve the audio quality. Additionally, while it may mirror the smartphone's screen on to COMAND, all controls are still via the phone itself.
Last edited by Mike5215; Nov 10, 2014 at 07:50 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Last edited by Mike5215; Nov 10, 2014 at 05:37 PM.
These are the correct factory sizes, power handling and OHM ratings and are as close to drop-in as you can get. I'm at the "Better" level. Bass is more than sufficient from the factory door subs if Hushmat or similar deadening is used, but I'm sure the replacement FOCAL subs at $500 a piece sound better.
Prices are for the parts I used only. Labor and Hushmat/Dynamat would be additional.
Last edited by Mike5215; Nov 10, 2014 at 07:49 PM.



http://www.pacificstereo.com/garage/...er-system.html
The problem with the 221 is that the amp is integrated into the master controller for everything on the fiber optic ring...navi, telephone, music, etc into a device called the Harman Becker Audio Gateway. Audio to the gateway is fiber optic, so to intercept the signal pre-amp and send it out to aftermarket amps would require a fiber optic to analog convertor. I found one for the 220 but never for the 221.
Without the ability to convert pre-amp, you have to instead pull signal from the powered, speaker level side of the gateway. Those high power signals need to be converted back down to line level for the amps, either within the amps themselves or via a line level convertor. You need one convertor for every channel (8 if you treat the door components as one speaker, 13 if you want an active crossover for the doors giving each component its own channel.)
I'm sure that system sounds great, but too much BS for me. Now if I could find an optical to analog convertor for the 221...
Here's a write up on the Prima. It also adds an Aux In, helpful for the 07-09.
Http://www.w221audio.wordpress.com
Last edited by Mike5215; Aug 8, 2015 at 09:01 PM.
So what Ive been told and or found is:
For 2007 w221 s550 part# b6 782 4567 - which resembles something that looks like this: https://www.commandonline.co.uk/mb_ipod_ntg3.html. After the money conversion those wires cost $1200.00.
But your diagram resembles a connection that looks like this:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-5MM...365364855.html
I've read this: https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...installed.html -- which is how I got to you.
1.So the AUX in command has to be turned on by somebody at the dealership.
2.Then buying the correct wire(s) to install your build
Thanks in advance.
b6 782 4246
Mercupr
The IPod kit should have a single cable that splits off into a normal 30 pin IPod female and a female 3.5mm (mini headphone). The iPod connection takes priority if a device is connected. To use Aux, leave the IPod disconnected and select Aux as your source. You'll probably want a mount and cradle for charging (and control of the device). I have a write up on the blog.
You'll still need the 12v receptacle (pull power from the fuse block on the passenger end of the dash) or skip the receptacle and wire everything directly to the fuse block. Just make sure each hot lead you add has its own in-line fuse.
Last edited by Mike5215; Aug 10, 2015 at 03:17 PM.
For example, the Tidal subscription service gives you full CD quality streaming playback, so if CD is your thing that's a good way to go. Or if you have a ton of actual CD's laying those can be ripped lossless to your portable device in ALAC or FLAC formats, and then run through the EQ, but one way or the other the files need to be on a portable device in order to use the EQ.
Since this write up I upgraded the car's speakers and installed an Audisen Prima 8.9 integration module and DSP amp, so I don't need the glovebox EQ and all of the car's sources sound equally stunning.
I have a Tidal subscription and an Apple Music subscription, so I can do A/B listening tests on any track imaginable and, in my high end system at least, the 256kbs AAC files sound better...tighter, more dynamic range, fuller bottom end...than their 1400kbs CD-quality equivalents. I rarely listen to Tidal for that reason.
When it comes to the stock 221 system, above all else you have to compensate for the horrible factory EQ. That need overrides whatever incremental quality an increased playback bitrate in the source material might get you. Sometimes, in a flawed system like the HK, higher quality files do nothing but exacerbate the system's inherent shortcomings.
If you want truly great sound in your 221, do the mods in my blog (link in sig) and then pick up a portable Hi Res player like the Astel-Kern, capable of playing lossless bit-for-bit copies of studio master files, at a resolution almost 10x that of CD. (Of course you also need to buy the Hi Res versions of your music).
(CLICK HERE)
It's an Amazon Wish List with all of the components needed for the EQ mod. Note that the HRT Istreamer only applies to installations for IPhone/Ipod. Omit this item if setting up for Android.
This assumes you already have a 12v receptacle in the glove box (2010). Add a 12v receptacle for 2007-2009.
Amazon said that shopping list was empty. I hope that doesn't mean all the parts are gone! I'll look at the PDF and ask the indy dealer to put in 12v in the glovebox instead of, or in addition to, the USB interface.
In any case, thank you very much for the detailed info on your sound experiments!
Is there a specific advantage to having the amp after the eq stage, or would it be a decent setup to have a combined unit before the eq and run the eq after the amp output and directly into the aux?
Lastly, is the aux inpit digitally processed after the input jack, or are the command controls simply manipulating analog bass and treble circuits?
Just wondering, awesome work youve done here.



