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Thanks "konigstiger" for the prefuse box info. I checked all the fuses and connections and they all checked out okay Still a no start issue. Now I am going to verify the same for the N10/1 Front SAM control unit. Do you have a schematic for N10/1 Front SAM box that can be posted?
These pictures are from my F32/3 Prefuse Box.
dan9100 where u able to figure out what your issue was?I have the same exact car same year and I’m having the same exact issue to the tee as you.Im starting to think the starter might be the issue but not sure please help.Thanks
No I have not found the cause yet. But I have the AAA Premier plan with 100% coverage for towing so I had the car towed to a reputable Mercedes mechanic 80 miles away. The waiting list is 10-14 days from 7-5-2019 for a diagnosis. Similar to going to Dr ??
I will post the results when they let me know. Like you I suspect the starter is the problem but that appears to be too difficult for me with summer heat and in the middle of my driveway. Plus being 65 years old it's just not worth it.
Hello Dan9100. I too have been going trough the same battle. I have gone through the battery issue (main and small computer battery under the dash), clearing codes, boosting etc. Managed to have car towed into a real Mercedes mechanic in Ottawa (damn good - president of MCB owners club, Mercedes trained, etc.) and no smoking guns with the diagnostics. I believe I do have two issues, my first was my alternator which was causing under-volt issues and the ABS/ESP warning lights to come on when driving. I stopped the car, tried starting. After two typical sounding dead battery grunts all starting motor function ceased. Get this. This is when I had it towed away. Had to get it into neutral (brake hard, shift to D (or R) then it would go into N), winched up onto flatbed. When delivered to shop it started fine (I had charged the heck out if the battery after the dead no-start). Star analysis showed many under-volts which mean the 1) alternator, 2) single wire feed to the ECM or 3) the ECM, regardless, the only issues was with charging the battery. I started with the alternator, still absolutely nothing when key is put to start posn. Ottawa shop is woking with me and has shoen me how to trace and check the voltages from the starter back to the SAM.
But first,
Thinking about it, this happened (twice now) after a dead battery start attempt. It is like the starter solenoid is jammed between full throw-out and return position - maybe why it started fine after being towed and then a long bumpy flatbed ride? Throw-out getting tired of returning when flywheel not spinning (from a started engine). I will be back home Monday July 15 and will let you know. I too am anxiously awaiting any info you receive.
I may be premature in saying as I can not confirm for myself, the mechanic called and said it was the starter and not battery or etc... He was wanting to know which starter I want him to install, new or reman. Considering my problems with this issue I went with a new one. I will know tomorrow when my wife brings it home (that's another story).
Thinking back a few weeks prior to this, several times when starting the car, the starter sounded/acted like it was dragging. Even my wife mentioned that it sounded different when she drove it. I decided it was the battery not being fully charged from lack of driving and when it is driven, it is just a few miles and then parked for about a week. So battery never gets a good full deep charge.
In a couple days I will give an update with the info on the parts and labor costs.
Hello DAN9100. My Starter problem turned out to be the starter. Once I had the underpans off I first clipped a lead onto the solenoid to look for voltage. Sure enough when the key was in the start position there was voltage at the solenoid. Just to make sure I checked that there was a voltage supply to the motor terminal as well. Took out the starter and bench tested it to confirm it had met its maker. Just a slight click in the solenoid and nothing on the motor itself. Next day new starter goes in and all is well, nearly. The new alternator is doing well with 14.2 v at idle, but on road testing I found the abs/esp/guidance unavailable warnings came back after the car was stopped then started again. Cleared themselves after sitting a while or when I used my reader. I am seeing a tree of errors that seem to lead back the the RR wheel speed sensor. So, I think the undervolt and starting issues are taken care of and new challenges await. I hope your new starter took care of your issues as well.
so i noticed fuse #9 was blown and changed it. I started the car but as soon as i turned it off and try to restart it again it wont start. I checked fuse #9 and its blown again. What could be the reason why fuse #9 keeps blowing?
I don't really understand what is wrong with mine either. On two occasions i had to remove the trunk battery terminals (with the assumption that there may be dirt between the connection), clean both terminals then connect them back to the battery points, the vehicle starts immediately and all goes smoothly but the problem comes back after i park the vehicle for some hours.
07-06-2019, 04:42 PM
