pretty sure an 07 s with over 100k isn't staying on any dealer lot, sounds like a straight to auction situation.

 

True, but independent dealers will buy those cars and put them on their lots. They will be advertised as "like new", "luxury", and "no credit/bad credit okay". Someone who can [should] only afford a used economy car will go for the stretch, thinking that they can impress everyone and him/herself. Upon discovering all the headaches that quickly turn into a nightmare, they may end up here. After losing a few thousand, they trade the car back. The cycle repeats.

It is reality. It is the fact of life. It is buyer beware, but I would hate it if it happened to me. This can happen even with a newer model with an extended warranty. What if the warranty company denies because it is determined that the problem was not a defect, but negligence or improper repair?

Everyone has their own code of ethical conduct, and may justify their actions by some exceptional reasoning. At the end of the day, I just want to be able to face myself....

Edit: My last two posts were not intended to disrespect, belittle, or pass judgement on any one individual. I simply wanted to present another perspective. This forum has been great, and great to me. Case in point--the original post of this thread is one of those that other forums would just ignore or flame. Instead, many jumped in to offer good advice, despite the... well, you know....

 

Yeah, you're right. Personally I couldn't put a band aid on it and unload it either. Just not worth selling myself out over a couple grand. The tranny went out on my S500 at 100k miles and while I knew I was in all probability going to dump the car in the coming months, I spent $6k on a reman rather than rolling the dice on a salvage piece.

But for the OP, who seemed to be sweating either making the repair or making his car payment this month...desperate times/desperate measures I guess.

And yes, this really is a great, laid back forum. Not everyone gives the kind of serious, relevant advice that I often give, but somehow the whole thing works

 

Truer words have always been said.

 

I remember this problem with the selector lever locking in gear. And on older cars it was the brake pedal switch that wanted replacing. Read it on a few forums dont know if it is the same on your car. Worth a check on the switch its an easy to change .

 

Yea, that's true

 

Okay, so here's an UPDATE. I have not fixed the brake light problem yet, but how come NONE of you smart people told me that I could drive this car with the Manual Shift keys on the back of the steering wheel and everything will be fine?

So, over the last 3 or 4 days, I have bee driving the car with no problem just shifting the gears myself. The first thing i do after putting it into DRIVE, is hit the left key to trigger gear (1). Then i just drive it like a stick up to gear (6). When slowing down, I just drop it to gear (2) and then when I'm at a complete stop, I put it back i n(1). Sure it's a lot of hassle, but people have been driving sticks for years this way. I'm having no problem with the car getting stuck in first gear anymore.

Now, my only question is, once I hit gear (6), if I shift up, I guess that's gear (7) but I don't see a (7) on the dash, the numbers disappear. So at that point is it in auto mode? Like do I need to shift from (6) to (7), or is up to (6) just fine because I dont feel a difference between the two


So I called the dealer and they want $199 for all 4 pads and $16 per wear sensor. I do need 4 correct? Someone said I only need 1 in the front and 1 in the rear, which makes no sense to me. The sensors are also $16 a piece at auto zone, advance, etc. Maybe the problem is I just got pads that were not setup for the sensors, and I can get the right aftermarket pads Id save money. What you think?

 

I would definitely have the independent mechanic drop the transmission oil pan. Seeing that you can shift fine from the paddle shifters but not automatically. Dropping the pan lets yoy see if there are metal particles and debris floating in your transmission which will give you a better idea of whether or not to ditch the transmission. As for thr throttle body that allows air into the engine. I cant see how that would be a part of your problem. Does it idle rough? The transmission Id say needs the most attention asap. Have him drop the pan and inspect the fluid and even change it and see if that helps with the issue at all. If not you probably need a new valve body. Good luck

 

Also order the pads from ebay. You can get then cheaper that way

 

Maybe because this particular situation has never happened to "NONE" of us....

 

Because the smart people can afford to have our cars repaired if they break down. But driving the car like a stick with the paddle shifters is a great work around. If the radio goes out next I guess you could just sing really loud instead.

 

Amazes me how offended you people get over nothing. People love to use Forums and social media to express themselves

 

Do you think the mechanic meant valve body and not throttle body? If so 1600 for the valve body is a good deal

 

Bro, you need to dump that car and get something more reliable and affordable. No, not another high end luxury vehicle like a BMW 7 series or Jag XJL, but something like a Honda/Toyota. Not trying to be rude or judgmental, just being real. Being a "baller on a budget" will always come back to bite you. Been there done that. Turning heads but not being able to pay your bills isn't worth it. It also seems as if are not mechanically inclined and cannot service your own vehicles so that means you will always be at the mercy of an independent shop and/or Mercedes dealer.

Based on your posts on the first page, if you are sweating over paying for a $1,000 repair and worried about paying your car note, it sounds like you don't have any substantial savings and this is not the type of vehicle for you. Just because you bought a $100,000 car most likely under $30,000 doesn't mean that maintenance/repair costs equal that of a $30,000 car. Can't blame Mercedes because you bought a high mileage first model year S class out of warranty from a broker without probably knowing a lick about this cars service/driving history.

These cars were not built/designed for guys with "beer pockets" (no offense). They were built for the 250k+ a year earners who can afford to pay for these cars cash outright with extended Mercedes warranty, and those who lease and turn them back in before they need major servicing after 40,000 miles for the newest S class.

Sure, the Certified Preowned Vehicles are a bargain for the second owners who can afford one for around $50,000 with warranty and maintenance and let the first owners take the huge depreciation hit. Then you have those 3rd or 4th owners, like yourself and others who pick up an S class for under $30,000 with high mileage and think you've gotten a steal, but you don't realize that you're right at the threshold where suspension bushings and ball joints are worn on such a front heavy car, air shocks and other components may fail, and computers and modules are beginning to need replacement (the S class has tons).

Instead of trying to trade the car in and screw over some dealer and possibly the next innocent owner, put the car on Craigslist priced to sell and be upfront in your ad about the repairs needed.

If you've learned anything from this experience, you will stay away from ANY large premium luxury sedans with high mileage out of warranty (unless you have a substantial savings set off to the side). Doesn't matter if it's Mercedes, BMW, Jaguar, Audi etc., you will run into more of the same. Stick to a Honda/Toyota until you can afford a luxury vehicle that is either Certified Preowned, or is eligible for an exclusionary warranty from a reputable warranty company.

 

Yes Jobs, you should definitely take the advice of a guy named Willie who's making his very first post to this forum....and who claims to drive a "Maybach", yet spells it "Mayback".


I also wouldn't get your undies in a twist over Mike either. He's here for his wit and smart *** comments....which I always find amusing.

 

And yet in my first post, i've still offered the OP more helpful advice than you with 184 posts.

Only thing you've done in this thread is make a negative statement calling into question the OP's decision making ability which has no impact or relevance to his current situation:


And, mock the OP's lack of doing homework and using Google:



Seems to me a guy named Willie with his first post who knowingly and intentionally spelled Maybach as "Mayback" is worth listening to more than you.

 

Does calling someone an AHOLE qualify as offensive? Oh wait, you were just expressing yourself.

 

Don't let this one bad experience deter you from Mercedes!!

I have been lucky with my 2007 S550 4matic but it is important to this thread to remind everyone to get the vehicle history if not buying a CPO from the dealer. I bought mine CPO with low miles and now it is at almost 150,000 miles and no issues. That said, I have gone above and beyond changing ALL fluids (even those Mercedes considers "lifetime") and have done PREVENTATIVE maintenance at every opportunity. Pay attention to the little issues and be ready to fix the issues before they "snowball". Pay a good mechanic or even the dealer to inspect the car even if there isn't a "light" on... Belts, water pump, steering pump, TRANSMISSION SERVICE!!, ALL FLUIDS, etc, etc...

Now I have a thick book of service records to show anyone thinking of buying my car... Although I can't seem to think of a car I'd rather own!

BEWARE of the s550s you see rolling on 22's and dropped, with all kinds of aftermarket body panels on. Chances are the money was spent there and NOT on the things you don't see.

Look for a CLEAN, full stock OEM car with HISTORY, or CPO from dealer. Even better if you see a Mercedes Benz Club sticker in the window or grill badge!

You want to buy from someone that LOVED the car... You will likely NOT find an aftermarket warranty on these types of cars worth the paper they are written on, so the dealer CPO is almost the only way to go.

Again-- Don't let this experience deter you from Mercedes!!! I have two high millage cars (the other is a ML350) that seem like tanks--- as long as they are regularly and preventatively maintained.

Finally learning to tackle oil changes, minor repairs and other minor maintenance (air and cabin filters), has been fun and kept the repair bills down.

Good Luck!!

 

 

If you feel you've offered him good advice by suggesting he buy a Toyota or Honda instead, then we'll just leave it up to the OP to make that judgment call on his own about that amazing piece of advice.


And now I can finally see that my suggesting that the OP read through this forum and others to learn more about these cars can easily be construed as poor advice. Thank you for that enlightenment. And my posting a very true comment about costs of owning a lower mileage car with a warranty vs a higher mileage car with no coverage? Yes, I can see how that can be construed as bad info. Again, I thank you for pointing that out.


I know "you think" you've offered great advice and that it's more helpful than all of my posts here, but I suggest that you take the time to go back and read my posts throughout all threads as I have a feeling that you only read a couple of my posts in this thread and nothing else....and are making a wild assumption.


Enjoy that MAYBACK! I'm wondering who builds that car. Yugo? Renault?

 

And, YES---- Get the transmission service!!! There is a filter and oil in it that needs to be changed with some regularity (every 50k miles I think?).... That will be something you HAVE TO DO ANYWAY.

And-- when you are using the paddle shifters, after 6 and into 7 the number disappears and it DOES go back to "auto mode", (you never see a "7") just down shift to 6, 5, 4 etc...

When I first read your post I thought you said even with the paddles it won't go into 1,2.... But its good you can get around this way.

Yes- a lot of the car is run by computer and sensors. There is another battery and computer in the trunk behind the seat as well... This can get VERY expensive. I did (under warranty) early on have to have some "brain" replaced that would have been several thousand dollars if not covered after the car lost power and stalled in traffic.

This car will AVERAGE out ok in maintenance cost but you MUST be prepared for the large bill every 1 or 2 years if you drive a lot like I do...

 

Great post! Except for the comment about aftermarket warranties....which is completely untrue and unfounded. Many aftermarket warranties are excellent and pay on claims without issue....just as good as the CPO warranties. Although I'm sure there are some poor ones out there too. Fortunately I got a good one at a great price and have had a positive experience with this company so far.

 

Interesting thread, I purchased my s550 used also, I've had to replace the brake pads and sensors. That was pretty easy. And only other issue I have had is a leak in the radiator which I am in the process to replace.

Jobs, keep us updated on your journey.

 

I suggested a Honda or Toyota to the OP for reliability and way less maintenance costs since he's frustrated and shocked by the issues that he has experienced so far (which really aren't that bad). Repair bills of $500 & $1,000 are not shocking to those of us who own and can afford premium German luxury sedans, it is expected at some point. Me suggesting Toyota/Honda was not an insult to the OP seeing as how those brands are known for reliability, longevity and a good value.

Did I tell him to get a Corolla? No. And by the way, Toyota/Honda includes Lexus/Acura if you're insinuating I was telling him to stay away from anything luxury. Telling a guy who is clearly, in his own words, frustrated financially to dump a high mileage problem riddled S class where he's still paying for gas, repairs, a car note and insurance is not insulting the guy but good advice.

Telling the OP to read through the forums and learn about these cars before they buy and owning a lower mileage car with warranty is not bad advice. However, how does that help him currently? He already bought the car and cannot change the past.

Don't have time to dig up your old posts. Actually this was the first thread i've read on here and the posts you've made in this thread were the first I've read from you. Sometimes first impression is lasting impression.

 

Generally when you ask a group of strangers for help with a predicament you've found yourself in which is entirely of your own making, and then suggest to them that they're not very smart because they didn't think of the same half-assed work around to your self-created dilemma as you did, those people are probably going to make fun of you.

Try not to take yourself so seriously. Also try not to take pictures of yourself posing with your toys and looking sternly off into the distance, unless the toy is a Lear jet or a helicopter, because it looks silly. It's also what lead a lot of the guys on the forum to conclude that you bought the car as a status play without any real consideration for what you were getting yourself into.

That, coupled with your statement that you had to choose between paying your car note or having the car repaired, and your statements that the accumulating repairs were too much for you (ie the title of the thread) resulted in several people telling you that you probably bought the car for the wrong reasons and would be happier with something less ambitious and more reliable, or something with a warranty. It seems you were offended by any suggestion that you didn't have the financial where with-all to handle an older S Class, yet the subtext of every post you make reflects exactly that.

Pick one. Lament how much it costs and how often it's necessary to fix an old S Class and we'll happily commiserate with you because we've all been there. Or, cry out for mercy about how much it costs and how often it's necessary to fix an old S Class and we'll tell you to dump the car and get a Honda.