Vibration on Braking
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 348
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From: Florida
W124, W126, W140, W220, W222, R129
Vibration on Braking
I recently did a brake flush and replaced my brake pads and rotors on my S600. What I noticed is a nice solid stop, however after about 2 months I started to get a vibration when slowing down. It was on the steering wheel and the brake pedal. I went back and they replaced the rotors. It happened again, and so they replaced rotors again. And now a third time!
This time they replaced the pads, and we still have the issue. In between they even suggested to replaced front lower control arms, since they had some wear, however the car only has around 65k miles. We went ahead and did that. Still same issue.
I am completely lost as to what is causing this. Any ideas what it could be? I know everyone is going to tell me its either the pads or rotors, but they have been changed many many times already. Any ideas??
This time they replaced the pads, and we still have the issue. In between they even suggested to replaced front lower control arms, since they had some wear, however the car only has around 65k miles. We went ahead and did that. Still same issue.
I am completely lost as to what is causing this. Any ideas what it could be? I know everyone is going to tell me its either the pads or rotors, but they have been changed many many times already. Any ideas??
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Depending in a lot of factors you just might not be exercising the brakes sufficiently. Try the following- on a suitable section of closed road in Mexico bring rotors up to temp- moderate braking a few times from say 60 to about 30. Then accelerate to 100-120 and threshold brake to about 30. Repeat a few times. Do not come to a complete stop each time.
If that does not solve the issue rotate wheels front to back - you might have a bent wheel/ bad tire on the front that acts up only when pushed hard upon.
One more thing- make sure your calipers are not dragging. If they do they will overheat and bend the offending side rotor. To check - drive on Highway for a bit and coast to a stop (works well when going uphill) without using brakes... You can tap them at the end to come to a complete stop. Get out and check temp of rotors. They need to be cool and all roughly the same temp. A hotter rotor will denote dragging caliper and your culprit for bending rotors.
If that does not solve the issue rotate wheels front to back - you might have a bent wheel/ bad tire on the front that acts up only when pushed hard upon.
One more thing- make sure your calipers are not dragging. If they do they will overheat and bend the offending side rotor. To check - drive on Highway for a bit and coast to a stop (works well when going uphill) without using brakes... You can tap them at the end to come to a complete stop. Get out and check temp of rotors. They need to be cool and all roughly the same temp. A hotter rotor will denote dragging caliper and your culprit for bending rotors.
Last edited by alx; Aug 7, 2015 at 03:52 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2004
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Likes: 253
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 348
Likes: 20
From: Florida
W124, W126, W140, W220, W222, R129
Changed pads and rotors multiple times.. Still experiencing this.. Could it be bearings?
Vibration usually occurs from freeway speed to 35mph, then it goes away. While driving the car is smooth at freeway speeds, but has a vibration that lasts for 1 second, every 4 seconds. Its weird... Thoughts?
Vibration usually occurs from freeway speed to 35mph, then it goes away. While driving the car is smooth at freeway speeds, but has a vibration that lasts for 1 second, every 4 seconds. Its weird... Thoughts?
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Indiana
2003 AMG SL55, 2002 AMG CLK55, 2002 AMG ML55, 2005 ML350, 1995 S320 LWB - totaled
Ditto have the same issue with my 2008 4matic. Have rebalanced new wheels and tires. Have had my shop check the brakes which were replaced only a few months ago.
Only happens at highway speeds, and fades away around 35 mph. Never happens if I keep below 50 mph.
We are stumped.
Only happens at highway speeds, and fades away around 35 mph. Never happens if I keep below 50 mph.
We are stumped.
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I assume you've gotten a complete brake service (with fluid and cleaning) which means your brakes are operating 100% correctly, not dragging or anything. As for tires/wheels - a reputable shop will tell you if you have a bad one in 5 minutes.
Your problem sounds like unevenly worn rotors. Big reason for this are lazy mechanics who just put the wheels on and slam them tight with the air gun nut by nut. This way the assembly is not properly seated and you get uneven wear.
Do this - insist to see the readings on the rotor thickness gauge yourself and write them down. Basically they hook the gauge on something steady (control arm), position it over the rotor, rotate the rotor and check for thickness across. Ask for the acceptable deviation in thickness.
When you go home - jack up the car, loosen lug nuts, tighten again using star pattern. Do this on all wheels.
Source: been there, done that.
Your problem sounds like unevenly worn rotors. Big reason for this are lazy mechanics who just put the wheels on and slam them tight with the air gun nut by nut. This way the assembly is not properly seated and you get uneven wear.
Do this - insist to see the readings on the rotor thickness gauge yourself and write them down. Basically they hook the gauge on something steady (control arm), position it over the rotor, rotate the rotor and check for thickness across. Ask for the acceptable deviation in thickness.
When you go home - jack up the car, loosen lug nuts, tighten again using star pattern. Do this on all wheels.
Source: been there, done that.
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If the surface of the hub is brushed clean from rust and the little fixing screw for the rotor is installed and tightened properly- how you tighten the wheel is largely irrelevant. The rotor sits flat in the hub and good luck twisting/ wedging it against the hub...
If brakes and tires are good next I will check control arm bushings.
If brakes and tires are good next I will check control arm bushings.
Last edited by alx; Dec 29, 2016 at 01:49 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,289
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From: Indiana
2003 AMG SL55, 2002 AMG CLK55, 2002 AMG ML55, 2005 ML350, 1995 S320 LWB - totaled
UPDATE: I have been battling this issue for months and months. When my S550 went in for a B service we reset and recalibrated the ABS brake system. Vibration problem is greatly reduced.
We believe the rotor drying system was dragging the pads too much and overheating the rotors at highway speeds causing them to warp slightly. Then when brakes are applied the ABS could not figure out what to do.
I still have slight warping of the rotors due to long time issue but the severe vibration has greatly reduced due to resetting the ABS. The pads don't drag and overall braking is much more responsive.
We believe the rotor drying system was dragging the pads too much and overheating the rotors at highway speeds causing them to warp slightly. Then when brakes are applied the ABS could not figure out what to do.
I still have slight warping of the rotors due to long time issue but the severe vibration has greatly reduced due to resetting the ABS. The pads don't drag and overall braking is much more responsive.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,268
Likes: 253
UPDATE: I have been battling this issue for months and months. When my S550 went in for a B service we reset and recalibrated the ABS brake system. Vibration problem is greatly reduced.
We believe the rotor drying system was dragging the pads too much and overheating the rotors at highway speeds causing them to warp slightly. Then when brakes are applied the ABS could not figure out what to do.
I still have slight warping of the rotors due to long time issue but the severe vibration has greatly reduced due to resetting the ABS. The pads don't drag and overall braking is much more responsive.
We believe the rotor drying system was dragging the pads too much and overheating the rotors at highway speeds causing them to warp slightly. Then when brakes are applied the ABS could not figure out what to do.
I still have slight warping of the rotors due to long time issue but the severe vibration has greatly reduced due to resetting the ABS. The pads don't drag and overall braking is much more responsive.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
2003 AMG SL55, 2002 AMG CLK55, 2002 AMG ML55, 2005 ML350, 1995 S320 LWB - totaled
Was driving me nuts. No vibration at low speeds braking.
