Lower control arms sounding like spring mattress ?
#26
Senior Member
#27
Senior Member
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-w22...5Vf0kD&vxp=mtr
Also make sure to check if the control arm is for an ABC or non-ABC vehicle.
#28
both of my front lower control arms are being replaced. plus strut bars as well. how i see it is why even go with ebay lower control arms. spend the money and get the right stuff for your vehicle. i know the squeeking noise is ridiculous mine did it bad.
#29
No experience with buying aftermarket control arm from Ebay. That said, I would be careful of the ones that advertise as German Parts Saver with a German flag. They are probably made in China. Occassionally, you can get an OE Mercedes control arm at a discount when some shop wants to do a fire sale. Otherwise, best bet is to go with and OEM like Lemforder. I was told they manufacture the OE control arm part for Mercedes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-w22...5Vf0kD&vxp=mtr
Also make sure to check if the control arm is for an ABC or non-ABC vehicle.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-w22...5Vf0kD&vxp=mtr
Also make sure to check if the control arm is for an ABC or non-ABC vehicle.
#31
yes lower control arms can cause the noise but also look into the your front and rear sway bars. my bushings were shot. im gettin the warranty company to replace to complete front and rear sway bars. the other fix is just use a glue. use the search engine on here and alot of people have posted about this. it seems almost stupid to have to use glue on our cars. but thats just the only fix from what i know.
#32
Senior Member
Well, it looks like the control arms needed to be changed anyway. You might want to try spraying WD40 on the sway bar bushings. My car still doesn't sqeak after the shop did that. My guess is the bushing's polymer material was probably so porous that it'll sucked all that lubricant up and has been able to retain it for as long as it has to keep my car's suspension from squeaking. What do you have to lose?
#33
Well, it looks like the control arms needed to be changed anyway. You might want to try spraying WD40 on the sway bar bushings. My car still doesn't sqeak after the shop did that. My guess is the bushing's polymer material was probably so porous that it'll sucked all that lubricant up and has been able to retain it for as long as it has to keep my car's suspension from squeaking. What do you have to lose?
Yeah im going to try WD40.
Question: Do you have any pics of where you prayed? Did you have to unscrew anything or you just sprayed?
Is it possible to buy bushings separatly for our cars?
Im going to lift my car up and try WD40 on every damn place i can find lol
Last edited by Cynical; 10-29-2015 at 03:57 AM.
#34
Senior Member
Source:Username G-AMG on BenzWorld.org
Just spray heavily onto the rubber 'doughnut' shaped bushings. No need to remove anything. You should be able to see the sway bar towards the corners by each wheel.
#35
No luck. Sprayed a couple times now.
Cant localize the noise but its from both front and rear and sounds soooo bad.
Replacing rear sway bar looks expensive..: really expensive!! Like you have to tear down half the car.
Cant localize the noise but its from both front and rear and sounds soooo bad.
Replacing rear sway bar looks expensive..: really expensive!! Like you have to tear down half the car.
#37
Senior Member
#38
Hi, i replaced the front lower control arms. Its the more silver"ish" arm behind this one in the pic
Hmm might be called strut Rod. Dunno, says different things depending on Where i look :/
Hmm might be called strut Rod. Dunno, says different things depending on Where i look :/
Last edited by Cynical; 11-04-2015 at 11:43 AM.
#39
Senior Member
OK, so you replaced the FRONT THRUST ARM as opposed to the LOWER CONTROL ARM, which is the one with the airmatic strut connected to it. My recommendation was to replace the control arm, but glad you were able to take care of the issue driving you nuts!!!
#40
But to be honest. I asked the mechanics, he called it lower control arm. Ordered online, and it was called lower control arm. Wierd. =P
#41
Senior Member
Latest update...I had the whole sway bar and the bushings replaced. The WD40 fix worked really well for months. I was hearing a slight rubbing noise once in a while on bumps, but I'm kind of a stickler for details, so $450 bucks later at a Mercedes master mechanic's indie shop, I don't have to hear it anymore. I guess the whole sway bar and bushing now comes from the Mercedes dealer as one piece mated solid to each other. No more silly gluing the bushings per the Mercedes technical bulletins when these first became a problem. Rides like an S-Class should.
#42
Member
this WORKS!!!!
I was getting ready to replace 221 330 82 07 then saw this post from Cynical, I was not optimist but I thought, hey what's the worst could happen, I would just replace the control arm anyway.
I had to made a small incision with but cutter then spray WD-silicone lube using the plastic needle generously, left it overnight and OMG it's sooo smooth and quite in the morning!!!! so happy about this temporary fix. LOL!!! thank YOU for posting this, Cynical!
I figure this is a temporary band-aid... at least I can hold off replacing the control arm ...
I think the one that need lube is the ball joint directly connected to the suspension, but I applied to both as indicated in the picture.
if anyone needs to do this, I recommend getting the needle lube applicator (harbor freight?), it may be able to make smaller incision compare to box cutter.
Also, silicone based lube is better for the rubber (compare to lithium or wd-40 base)
I was getting ready to replace 221 330 82 07 then saw this post from Cynical, I was not optimist but I thought, hey what's the worst could happen, I would just replace the control arm anyway.
I had to made a small incision with but cutter then spray WD-silicone lube using the plastic needle generously, left it overnight and OMG it's sooo smooth and quite in the morning!!!! so happy about this temporary fix. LOL!!! thank YOU for posting this, Cynical!
I figure this is a temporary band-aid... at least I can hold off replacing the control arm ...
I think the one that need lube is the ball joint directly connected to the suspension, but I applied to both as indicated in the picture.
if anyone needs to do this, I recommend getting the needle lube applicator (harbor freight?), it may be able to make smaller incision compare to box cutter.
Also, silicone based lube is better for the rubber (compare to lithium or wd-40 base)
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