MattRuss

Hello,
My front left side is starting to make the sound of an old spring mattress. I have a 2007 s550. Took it to my local indie shop and they say I need new lower control arms. They quoted me 5 hours for labor and using the brand Meyle control arms.Has anyone used any other parts besides Mercedes and had good quality ? I got estimates from 2 other shops and they both said 3 hours tops.

Anyone have experience on this please ?

Thanks

MonroeHandyMan

Mine is doing the same thing. It comes and goes depending on the temperature outside I think. Sometimes it's quiet and then other times it's noisy for a week. Last time I took it to the mechanics it was dead quiet and made a liar out of me, they couldnt figure out where the noise was coming form. I think they quoted me 3.5 hrs and it was something like $1200, for the lower control arm (L). I didn't do it because it wasn't making the noise at the time. They thought it was the stabilizer bushing and replaced that, but its making the sound once again after disappearing for about 2.5 weeks.

MattRuss

Ok, mine squeaks just driving slow through a parking lot. The Mercedes indie shop said replace both front lower forward control arms. They quoted like 1150. Other shops said 3 hours total for both and quoted under 800. So maybe the other quotes weren't sure of which control arm ?

lganski

I had the same problem. It is the ball joints. I got a grease needle and injected grease into each ball joint including the ones connected to the struts in the control arm. After the grease had a chance to spread all noises went away. It's much cheaper than the alternative.

WHPH28

Did the exact same thing on my range rover. Correct, it's the ball joints, not the control arms. You will also notice depending on the temp outside it will or won't make the squeaking sound.

I used a regular hypodermic needle, injected grease and boom, no more sound.

MonroeHandyMan

Does anyone have a pic as to where you can inject the grease and all? Another thing, grease will go through a needle?

WHPH28

It goes in the black plastic surrounding the ball joint. Just get a needle, put grease in it and inject it. Once you take the wheel off you will be able to see it.

MonroeHandyMan

Ugh I have to remove the wheel? No way around that?

WHPH28

You don't have to..but it's easier..

MattRuss

Is there a certain type of grease or silicon to use ?

KNBS550

A few months ago, I had the driver side lower control arm replaced. They cannot just replace the balljoint as I was told by the dealer and independent shops that it comes as one with the control arm. I usually take my vehicle to a guy who is a former Mercedes Master Mechanic and he uses MB or OE parts on all repairs. However, for some reason this time I tried a euro repair shop near home and they said they were using OEM. I thought OK. So after they do the work I see a Meyle label on the control arm. Meyle is considered OEM, but I should have specified OE as in Original Equipment. As in Mercedes-Benz. Anyway, the Meyle is junk. It still sqeaks every now after less than a few hundred miles. I have to bring it in to the local shop that installed it and get it looked at. I showed it to the former MB Master Mechanic that I normally go to and he shook his head like what is that??? I asked him if he could replace it with an MB part because I am OCD and I am willing to pay for it, but he said just leave it in until it prematurely wears out. Lesson learned. Stick to MB parts. MB dealers will quote about $900-$1200 to do this but independent will be less depending on whether OEM or OE part is used.

MattRuss

Thanks for your information

MattRuss

I had the front lower control arms replaced yesterday. It's still making the same sound. I will take it back to shop today. Wth ? Could it be the front lower rearward ?

MattRuss

Did you have the front lower front or rearward control arm replaced ?

KNBS550

It was the driver side rearward lower control arm that was replaced. The one with the connection point to the airmatic strut in the middle if the arm. The shop diagnosed it by having the mechanic grab the control arm when it was on the hydraulic lift. He was trying to move it back and forth. The ball joint on the arm was making a noise plus the rubber jacket surrounding the balljoint had been compromised so filling it with grease wouldn't have made a difference. Hope that helps.

Nickthegreek

The balljoint in the w221's is built right into the control arm so you have to replace the entire control arm once the balljoint goes.

Nickthegreek

I think lemfoerder is the actual oe maker for MB. They tack on more to put the MB name

Nickthegreek

Injecting grease through the dust boot will do you no good. You want it to penetrate up where the ball lies in the socket of the joint. The only way to do this would be to drill a small hole in the top without knicking the ball and installing a grease gun nipple. These joints are sealed and cannot be regreased

KNBS550

Just an update on this post. So I finally brought the vehicle back to the shop that replaced the lower control arm a few months ago. Everything was tight when they checked the driver side linkages and even the non-OE control arm was tight. Then the mechanic looked at the sway bar and said, "Aha! That's the problem." They sprayed WD40 lubricant on the sway bar bushings on both sides. That seems to have solved the problem. Drove it around town today and no more sqeaking mattress coil sound! If it starts squeaking again because the lubricant's effectiveness wore off, I may just have the bushings replaced. They are pretty cheap anyway and it's fairly easy to do. Until then, I'm happy with the result.

marthyh

The bushings need to be glued as per this https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w221/372800-cracking-noise-suspension-when-going-over-speed-bumps.html thread.
Good luck!!

MattRuss

How's the wd40 holding up ?

BrentC5C

It's probably just a matter of time unfortunately. I did the epoxy treatment on the bushings in about an hour and a half last week. Fixed and loving it. Bought the 2 part from a local parts store. Permatex 5 min set up, 24 hr cure, one can of brake cleaner, and a couple sheets of 100 grit sandpaper. Takes just a few standard tools.

FYI, if removing your wheels is out of the question, don't attemp this. I can't see how you could disconnect both ends of the anti sway bar with the wheels still mounted up.

KNBS550

I've been driving around wondering when it's going to start squeaking again, but surprisingly, it's still good. I'll let you know when or if the noise comes back.

KNBS550

Still not squeaking.

Cynical

I need to replace my lower control arms. Anyone have any experience with the aftermarket control arma on eBay?