Disaster on the Interstate
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Arlington, TN
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2008 S550 4Matic
Disaster on the Interstate
I've been driving on the interstate on a cross country trip. 500 miles in, I feel a very funny vibration. I pull over and inspect everything that I could think of. Things look ok so I get back in the car and resume driving. Get up to about 75 mph and all hell breaks lose. Vibration gets really bad and before I could pull over, the car almost fish tails and I hear a loud boom. I get out and all the lug bolts from the rear left wheel have come off, the car has collapsed and the rear wheel broken off. How is this even possible? I'm in the middle of nowhere.
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
I've been driving on the interstate on a cross country trip. 500 miles in, I feel a very funny vibration. I pull over and inspect everything that I could think of. Things look ok so I get back in the car and resume driving. Get up to about 75 mph and all hell breaks lose. Vibration gets really bad and before I could pull over, the car almost fish tails and I hear a loud boom. I get out and all the lug bolts from the rear left wheel have come off, the car has collapsed and the rear wheel broken off. How is this even possible? I'm in the middle of nowhere.
#3
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Depends on the weather
Have you recently done any tire service? rotation?
If the lugs were not tightened properly, they will be come loose when driving and one by one they will fall out. People do not realize the danger of not properly tightening lug nuts.
If the lugs were not tightened properly, they will be come loose when driving and one by one they will fall out. People do not realize the danger of not properly tightening lug nuts.
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Definitely true, with regards to improper tightening of the lug nuts. That is another more common cause. I was thinking that the lug nuts were checked at the time Popo stopped to check everything before the wheel came off.
Last edited by Nuru; 09-07-2015 at 10:02 PM.
#5
Senior Member
Wow...Thankfully no one got hurt. The second photo really shows the separation/failure of the wheel. Hope you can get some help where you are and have this sorted out. Take care.
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
I've been driving on the interstate on a cross country trip. 500 miles in, I feel a very funny vibration. I pull over and inspect everything that I could think of. Things look ok so I get back in the car and resume driving. Get up to about 75 mph and all hell breaks lose. Vibration gets really bad and before I could pull over, the car almost fish tails and I hear a loud boom. I get out and all the lug bolts from the rear left wheel have come off, the car has collapsed and the rear wheel broken off. How is this even possible? I'm in the middle of nowhere.
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#8
Junior Member
Wheel fly offs are not uncommon. One national tire chain experiences about 6 occurrences per month inspite of correct torque settings. The best practice is to retorque all lug nuts after 50-100 miles.
#9
Super Member
I'm assuming the rims were OEM and that the studs were the proper length for the wheel? Really glad you weren't hurt, but if it were me I'd have to claim new underwear from insurance also.
#12
Super Member
Happy Popo et al. Are safe!!
#13
Super Member
Happy Popo still here et al. Are safe!!
#14
You just purchased this car, right? Did you purchase from a dealer or private party? With just 9,000 miles on ODO I'm curious if any tire maintenance had been done, I would think not. So that would mean this was done at the factory? Just thinking out loud....
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
Glad, no one was hurt this could have been a much worse than it did .My first thoughts too is either overtightening or under tightening the bolts . Proper values must be 130 NM .I do have torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the factory specs and never neglect checking the values if you drop the car to the tire shop
#16
MBWorld Fanatic!
I was an auto claims adjuster for ten years and had exactly one fly-off claim, where they hand tightened a wheel but forgot to go back to it with the impact wrench.
So we're the lug bolts still with the damaged wheel? I'm guessing so since he mounted the spare using them.
#18
Junior Member
Mike,
In addition to Al's Retarded Discount Tire Service, the partial list includes Ford, Costco, Discount Tire, Tire Barn, and my local Lexus and Merecedes dealers. All recommend a recheck of the torque of alloy wheels. There is a difference in the coefficient of expansion of steel and wheel alloys. The recheck is after a few heat cycles.
When rechecking, torque to spec without loosening. Do not over torque to prevent wheel and/or rotor warping. Never use an impact wrench. I am OCD when I rotate my snow tires. They are mounted on Original equipment wheels. I hand torque to spec, recheck in a few days, and usually find 2-3 of the 20 lugs that need tightening. This is a Lexus setup that has a lower torque setting than Mercedes.
In addition to Al's Retarded Discount Tire Service, the partial list includes Ford, Costco, Discount Tire, Tire Barn, and my local Lexus and Merecedes dealers. All recommend a recheck of the torque of alloy wheels. There is a difference in the coefficient of expansion of steel and wheel alloys. The recheck is after a few heat cycles.
When rechecking, torque to spec without loosening. Do not over torque to prevent wheel and/or rotor warping. Never use an impact wrench. I am OCD when I rotate my snow tires. They are mounted on Original equipment wheels. I hand torque to spec, recheck in a few days, and usually find 2-3 of the 20 lugs that need tightening. This is a Lexus setup that has a lower torque setting than Mercedes.
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
Mike,
In addition to Al's Retarded Discount Tire Service, the partial list includes Ford, Costco, Discount Tire, Tire Barn, and my local Lexus and Merecedes dealers. All recommend a recheck of the torque of alloy wheels. There is a difference in the coefficient of expansion of steel and wheel alloys. The recheck is after a few heat cycles.
When rechecking, torque to spec without loosening. Do not over torque to prevent wheel and/or rotor warping. Never use an impact wrench. I am OCD when I rotate my snow tires. They are mounted on Original equipment wheels. I hand torque to spec, recheck in a few days, and usually find 2-3 of the 20 lugs that need tightening. This is a Lexus setup that has a lower torque setting than Mercedes.
In addition to Al's Retarded Discount Tire Service, the partial list includes Ford, Costco, Discount Tire, Tire Barn, and my local Lexus and Merecedes dealers. All recommend a recheck of the torque of alloy wheels. There is a difference in the coefficient of expansion of steel and wheel alloys. The recheck is after a few heat cycles.
When rechecking, torque to spec without loosening. Do not over torque to prevent wheel and/or rotor warping. Never use an impact wrench. I am OCD when I rotate my snow tires. They are mounted on Original equipment wheels. I hand torque to spec, recheck in a few days, and usually find 2-3 of the 20 lugs that need tightening. This is a Lexus setup that has a lower torque setting than Mercedes.
Google it and link back if you find evidence of a chronic problem with properly torqued lugs coming loose and wheels flying off. Or link back to the article you referenced where a major tire retailer had frequent episodes of properly torqued wheels flying off the cars they serviced. I couldn't find anything on it (other than Google, which returned a link back to this thread.)
Last edited by Mike5215; 09-08-2015 at 11:20 PM.
#20
Super Member
On another note, Popo glad no one was injured.
#21
Junior Member
This is the Tire Rack entry on this website:
Wheel Lug Torquing
IMPORTANT!
Proper installation requires that the wheel lug torque be set to the recommended specification for your vehicle. Sometimes these torque specifications can be found in your vehicle's owner's manual, however more often than not you will need to refer to your vehicle's shop manual or obtain them from your vehicle dealer/service provider.
Unless specifically stated otherwise, wheel lug torque specifications are for clean and dry threads (no lubricant) that are free of dirt, grit, etc. Applying oil, grease or anti-seize lubricants to the threads will result in inaccurate torque values that over tighten the wheels.
A thread chaser or tap should be used to remove any burrs or obstructions of the threads allowing the lug hardware to be turned by hand until it meets the wheel's lug seat. Once lugs are snugged down, finish tightening them with an accurate torque wrench. Use the appropriate crisscross sequence (shown below) for the number of wheel lugs on your vehicle until all have reached their proper torque value. Be careful because if you over torque a wheel, you can strip a lug nut or hub, stretch or break a stud or bolt, and cause the wheel, brake rotor and/or brake drum to distort.
Use the dry wheel lug torque values specified in the vehicle's owner's manual, shop manual or obtained from the vehicle dealer/service provider. The chart below lists typical torque values that should only be used temporarily until the vehicle's exact torque values can be confirmed.
Since the thickness of an alloy wheel can differ from Original Equipment wheels, also verify that the lug nuts or bolts will engage the threads. Refer to the chart below to determine the number of turns or the depth of engagement typical for your stud or bolt size.
Size / Typical Torque Range
12 x 1.5 mm 80 - 85
12 x 1.25 mm 70 - 80
14 x 1.5 mm 85 - 90
14 x 1.25 mm 85 - 90
7/16 in. 70 - 80
1/2 in. 75 - 85
9/16 in. 135 - 145
When installing new wheels you should re-torque the wheel lugs after driving the first 50 to 100 miles in case the clamping loads have changed following the initial installation. This is necessary due to the possibility of metal compression/elongation or thermal stresses affecting the wheels as they are breaking in, as well as to verify the accuracy of the original installation. When rechecking torque value, wait for the wheels to cool to ambient temperature (never torque a hot wheel). Loosen and retighten to value, in sequence. Simply repeat the same torque procedure listed above.
__________________
Luke
For more info on any post or to place
an order please call me directly.
If ordering on-line use this LINK
Don't forget check out my blog
Luke@tirerack is offline.
Wheel Lug Torquing
IMPORTANT!
Proper installation requires that the wheel lug torque be set to the recommended specification for your vehicle. Sometimes these torque specifications can be found in your vehicle's owner's manual, however more often than not you will need to refer to your vehicle's shop manual or obtain them from your vehicle dealer/service provider.
Unless specifically stated otherwise, wheel lug torque specifications are for clean and dry threads (no lubricant) that are free of dirt, grit, etc. Applying oil, grease or anti-seize lubricants to the threads will result in inaccurate torque values that over tighten the wheels.
A thread chaser or tap should be used to remove any burrs or obstructions of the threads allowing the lug hardware to be turned by hand until it meets the wheel's lug seat. Once lugs are snugged down, finish tightening them with an accurate torque wrench. Use the appropriate crisscross sequence (shown below) for the number of wheel lugs on your vehicle until all have reached their proper torque value. Be careful because if you over torque a wheel, you can strip a lug nut or hub, stretch or break a stud or bolt, and cause the wheel, brake rotor and/or brake drum to distort.
Use the dry wheel lug torque values specified in the vehicle's owner's manual, shop manual or obtained from the vehicle dealer/service provider. The chart below lists typical torque values that should only be used temporarily until the vehicle's exact torque values can be confirmed.
Since the thickness of an alloy wheel can differ from Original Equipment wheels, also verify that the lug nuts or bolts will engage the threads. Refer to the chart below to determine the number of turns or the depth of engagement typical for your stud or bolt size.
Size / Typical Torque Range
12 x 1.5 mm 80 - 85
12 x 1.25 mm 70 - 80
14 x 1.5 mm 85 - 90
14 x 1.25 mm 85 - 90
7/16 in. 70 - 80
1/2 in. 75 - 85
9/16 in. 135 - 145
When installing new wheels you should re-torque the wheel lugs after driving the first 50 to 100 miles in case the clamping loads have changed following the initial installation. This is necessary due to the possibility of metal compression/elongation or thermal stresses affecting the wheels as they are breaking in, as well as to verify the accuracy of the original installation. When rechecking torque value, wait for the wheels to cool to ambient temperature (never torque a hot wheel). Loosen and retighten to value, in sequence. Simply repeat the same torque procedure listed above.
__________________
Luke
For more info on any post or to place
an order please call me directly.
If ordering on-line use this LINK
Don't forget check out my blog
Luke@tirerack is offline.
#22
MBWorld Fanatic!
Popo, if the lug nuts did back off, there is probably some damage to the lugs. Was there any damage to the lugs? Also did you get that wheel inspected or look at it yourselt to see if that wheel was previously repaired? This is just to cover all the bases mentioned here.
#23
Super Member
This is the Tire Rack entry on this website:
Wheel Lug Torquing
IMPORTANT!
Proper installation requires that the wheel lug torque be set to the recommended specification for your vehicle. Sometimes these torque specifications can be found in your vehicle's owner's manual, however more often than not you will need to refer to your vehicle's shop manual or obtain them from your vehicle dealer/service provider.
Unless specifically stated otherwise, wheel lug torque specifications are for clean and dry threads (no lubricant) that are free of dirt, grit, etc. Applying oil, grease or anti-seize lubricants to the threads will result in inaccurate torque values that over tighten the wheels.
A thread chaser or tap should be used to remove any burrs or obstructions of the threads allowing the lug hardware to be turned by hand until it meets the wheel's lug seat. Once lugs are snugged down, finish tightening them with an accurate torque wrench. Use the appropriate crisscross sequence (shown below) for the number of wheel lugs on your vehicle until all have reached their proper torque value. Be careful because if you over torque a wheel, you can strip a lug nut or hub, stretch or break a stud or bolt, and cause the wheel, brake rotor and/or brake drum to distort.
Use the dry wheel lug torque values specified in the vehicle's owner's manual, shop manual or obtained from the vehicle dealer/service provider. The chart below lists typical torque values that should only be used temporarily until the vehicle's exact torque values can be confirmed.
Since the thickness of an alloy wheel can differ from Original Equipment wheels, also verify that the lug nuts or bolts will engage the threads. Refer to the chart below to determine the number of turns or the depth of engagement typical for your stud or bolt size.
Size / Typical Torque Range
12 x 1.5 mm 80 - 85
12 x 1.25 mm 70 - 80
14 x 1.5 mm 85 - 90
14 x 1.25 mm 85 - 90
7/16 in. 70 - 80
1/2 in. 75 - 85
9/16 in. 135 - 145
When installing new wheels you should re-torque the wheel lugs after driving the first 50 to 100 miles in case the clamping loads have changed following the initial installation. This is necessary due to the possibility of metal compression/elongation or thermal stresses affecting the wheels as they are breaking in, as well as to verify the accuracy of the original installation. When rechecking torque value, wait for the wheels to cool to ambient temperature (never torque a hot wheel). Loosen and retighten to value, in sequence. Simply repeat the same torque procedure listed above.
__________________
Luke
For more info on any post or to place
an order please call me directly.
If ordering on-line use this LINK
Don't forget check out my blog
Luke@tirerack is offline.
Wheel Lug Torquing
IMPORTANT!
Proper installation requires that the wheel lug torque be set to the recommended specification for your vehicle. Sometimes these torque specifications can be found in your vehicle's owner's manual, however more often than not you will need to refer to your vehicle's shop manual or obtain them from your vehicle dealer/service provider.
Unless specifically stated otherwise, wheel lug torque specifications are for clean and dry threads (no lubricant) that are free of dirt, grit, etc. Applying oil, grease or anti-seize lubricants to the threads will result in inaccurate torque values that over tighten the wheels.
A thread chaser or tap should be used to remove any burrs or obstructions of the threads allowing the lug hardware to be turned by hand until it meets the wheel's lug seat. Once lugs are snugged down, finish tightening them with an accurate torque wrench. Use the appropriate crisscross sequence (shown below) for the number of wheel lugs on your vehicle until all have reached their proper torque value. Be careful because if you over torque a wheel, you can strip a lug nut or hub, stretch or break a stud or bolt, and cause the wheel, brake rotor and/or brake drum to distort.
Use the dry wheel lug torque values specified in the vehicle's owner's manual, shop manual or obtained from the vehicle dealer/service provider. The chart below lists typical torque values that should only be used temporarily until the vehicle's exact torque values can be confirmed.
Since the thickness of an alloy wheel can differ from Original Equipment wheels, also verify that the lug nuts or bolts will engage the threads. Refer to the chart below to determine the number of turns or the depth of engagement typical for your stud or bolt size.
Size / Typical Torque Range
12 x 1.5 mm 80 - 85
12 x 1.25 mm 70 - 80
14 x 1.5 mm 85 - 90
14 x 1.25 mm 85 - 90
7/16 in. 70 - 80
1/2 in. 75 - 85
9/16 in. 135 - 145
When installing new wheels you should re-torque the wheel lugs after driving the first 50 to 100 miles in case the clamping loads have changed following the initial installation. This is necessary due to the possibility of metal compression/elongation or thermal stresses affecting the wheels as they are breaking in, as well as to verify the accuracy of the original installation. When rechecking torque value, wait for the wheels to cool to ambient temperature (never torque a hot wheel). Loosen and retighten to value, in sequence. Simply repeat the same torque procedure listed above.
__________________
Luke
For more info on any post or to place
an order please call me directly.
If ordering on-line use this LINK
Don't forget check out my blog
Luke@tirerack is offline.
Last edited by wilassasin; 09-09-2015 at 10:56 PM.
#24
Junior Member
Let me clarify. Anytime a wheel is mounted on your car, it should be rechecked. I did not mean every 50-100 miles of driving. Note that each manufacturer has their own torque spec for their OEM wheels. After market wheels, spacers, extended length lug bolts, and nuts may have different properties than OEM setups. I would be especially careful to do this follow up recheck. Be safe and enjoy. Thanks.
#25
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yeah, I get that wheel lug bolts should be torqued evenly and to spec. What I can't find is any evidence to support your contention that a national tire chain regularly experiences six "fly offs a year". Where did that info come from?