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Approximately 4L fluid capacity but system requires aprox. 10 liters to do flush. See attachment. If you do not have a STAR/DAS setup then flushing is still doable by using the raise lower function to exercise the suspension while adding fresh fluid. That's how I did my R230 and many others do it that way as well. Changing to the 3 micron filter is also necessary although your car may be new enough to where it already has the updated spec filter. If the fluid has never been changed, then I would flush this time and then replace the filter more often see attachment.
As an aside, I have my WIS/EPC program on my desk top computer so I can do research away from the garage.. You will need a lot of disc space ie 150 GB or so free to install the program discs. I print out the instructions I need for each project to use in my garage before starting.
I also have a STAR/DAS system as well on a laptop for diagnostics. Strangely, I haven't really needed it (knock on wood) that often but it is nice to have for insurance. At dealership hourly rate of $150/hour, I'd be broke in no time!
Good luck,
Bob
Thanks for the PDFs. I'm keenly interested in the DIY one. But it seems to be written for a W220. On my W221 that return line is not in the reservoir cap. So, anyone know where the return line is? And, is it 1/2" still?
Ok, I solved my own riddle. The filler cap tank I posted first is for the power steering portion of the system. Ignore that. The 2nd reservoir is what I want and here's the target (found a really good series of pics on an eBay listing):
It's a little odd to me that the return comes into the bottom but maybe that keeps sediment from settling?
I know this is an old thread, but wondering if those who posted here (Hatzenbach and Lionsfan) finished this project? I'm going to be there soon. Nice pictures, btw!
I know this is an old thread, but wondering if those who posted here (Hatzenbach and Lionsfan) finished this project? I'm going to be there soon. Nice pictures, btw!
I ended up completing the ABC fluid flush, but never removed any hoses! MUCH easier to buy one of these
Thanks for the reply! I have stubbornly been trying to avoid buying that tool, but I suppose it's becoming obvious I need to.
Unless you happen to be in the Seattle-Tacoma area, I would happily rent it from you!
Thanks for the reply! I have stubbornly been trying to avoid buying that tool, but I suppose it's becoming obvious I need to.
Unless you happen to be in the Seattle-Tacoma area, I would happily rent it from you!
1. If I was near you I'd just let you use it, no need for money
2. I'm in the midwest, so...
3. $100 is cheap for the ability to effectively nullify one of the MAJOR areas of cost and pain on the W221
$100 would be better than the 130 to 140 most places want for it.
I am curious how the pump replacement went, going back to the original subject of this thread.
I thought I heard some extra whining coming from mine the other day.
$100 would be better than the 130 to 140 most places want for it.
I am curious how the pump replacement went, going back to the original subject of this thread.
I thought I heard some extra whining coming from mine the other day.
I've never done my pump. And, I don't mean to sound rude, but you can't be quibbling over $40 and own a car like this. I'm not saying drop it off at the dealer with an open checkbook, but at some point you'll have to spend a little money. Especially this, which will save you huge money
Being a mere mortals, I have to save $'s when I can. I know it was a $100,000 car, but the only way I can afford to keep it is to stay away from the dealership and do the work myself, and hopefully as economically as possible 😛.
No offense taken.
Being a mere mortals, I have to save $'s when I can. I know it was a $100,000 car, but the only way I can afford to keep it is to stay away from the dealership and do the work myself, and hopefully as economically as possible 😛.
No offense taken.
understood, but for $140 you can avoid a $4,000 breakage
understood, but for $140 you can avoid a $4,000 breakage
I think I found someone locally who will split the cost of the tool, which is nice. Meanwhile, I'm increasingly concerned about my tandem pump going out. The wife came back the other day complaining about a whining noise. It does seem a little loud suddenly. Can't wait to delve into that!
I had the whole pump replaced 2 1/2 years ago, the whine was gone, now it's back
I am pretty sure that the shop did not change the pulsation damper (sigh)
Still looking for a good Indy in the Silicon Valley Peninsula...
You have to remove the serpentine belt and the pulley from the pump and then loosen the pump and pull it forward about 2 inches to access the damper. The bolt on the bracket that holds the back of the pump is the worst to get to. Plan on a few hours of work, but it is quite doable without removing the pump.
I only recently got a W220 S55 but it has ABC. I've been reading a lot of ABC-related threads so that is why I am commenting here. The previous owner replaced the pump roughly a year ago and I don't really have any problems; no lights (errors on instrument cluster), leaks, just the noise at idle. This noise goes away when I turn on the a/c, rev the engine, or drive the car.
I should have updated mine as well. The grinding sound was the ac compressor. It finally gave up the ghost and leaked out. When I got to it, there was a hole in the side of the compressor. I don't know how it something managed to blow through it like it did. I should have taken a picture though.