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Hi,
today my Icarsoft MB V2.0 arrived, so I've jumped straight into my MB and hooked it up.
What I saw is same faults + 1 new regarding air pump.
I've also checked cam positions on real time data. Here's results:
I've also found a video on Youtube, where guy is showing, that resetting timing on right cams is "solving" the problem temporarily. What is Your take on that? I mean, if I could do it in couple of evenings, and avoid pulling engine, and that will last some considerable time, I would go for it. Remember, I drive the car only around 100miles/week.
I wouldn't trust the freeze frame data. You can unplug a cam sensor and computer will use a default reading.
If you are talking about shifting the pulse wheels to correct for excess slack in the chain then go ahead. I personally don't believe in these "band aid" repairs. It isn't "solving" anything except making it so you don't see a check engine light on. Fix it right or get rid of the in my opinion
I wouldn't trust the freeze frame data. You can unplug a cam sensor and computer will use a default reading.
If you are talking about shifting the pulse wheels to correct for excess slack in the chain then go ahead. I personally don't believe in these "band aid" repairs. It isn't "solving" anything except making it so you don't see a check engine light on. Fix it right or get rid of the in my opinion
Hi,
I will of course have to disassemble a bit, and check timing marks.
I would like to make a proper repair, but, I don't have a garage currently, and winter is coming very fast. And I don't fancy to get it done by someone else, at least not yet.
I believe the guy in the video was talking about releasing the chain and turning the whole cam to make it align with the marks.
But Your idea is even better, if that would work. How to adjust pulse wheels?
Hi,
I will of course have to disassemble a bit, and check timing marks.
I would like to make a proper repair, but, I don't have a garage currently, and winter is coming very fast. And I don't fancy to get it done by someone else, at least not yet.
I believe the guy in the video was talking about releasing the chain and turning the whole cam to make it align with the marks.
But Your idea is even better, if that would work. How to adjust pulse wheels?
This isn't properly fixing the problem. I personally wouldn't spend that much time to improperly fix an issue that I wouldn't even say is fixing anything. If you want a hack repair job that won't fix the actual problem just shift the pulse wheels. Also, if you only have minimal slack to where it is barely out of spec throwing the codes for retarded cam timing you could move a tooth and end up with advanced cam timing codes.
This isn't properly fixing the problem. I personally wouldn't spend that much time to improperly fix an issue that I wouldn't even say is fixing anything. If you want a hack repair job that won't fix the actual problem just shift the pulse wheels. Also, if you only have minimal slack to where it is barely out of spec throwing the codes for retarded cam timing you could move a tooth and end up with advanced cam timing codes.
I understand, that it will not fix problem permanently. Could You tell me how to shift pulse wheels? I see in the video, that they have location pins, meaning they are not adjustable?
I understand, that it will not fix problem permanently. Could You tell me how to shift pulse wheels? I see in the video, that they have location pins, meaning they are not adjustable?
It won't fix it permanently and it won't fix it temporarily. The chains don't just skip teeth, so you either have chain stretch or the far ore common worn balance shaft/ idler gear. So it will either keep stretching until it completely fails or keep grinding on a worn gear until it breaks, either way will result in major engine damage. I would never recommend to shift the pulse wheels but it seems like you are looking for a way to fool the computer into thinking everything is ok. So grind the location pins off and turn it into position so the computer reads the different position. Again, this is a straight up hack "repair" job but it feel thats what you are looking for.
It won't fix it permanently and it won't fix it temporarily. The chains don't just skip teeth, so you either have chain stretch or the far ore common worn balance shaft/ idler gear. So it will either keep stretching until it completely fails or keep grinding on a worn gear until it breaks, either way will result in major engine damage. I would never recommend to shift the pulse wheels but it seems like you are looking for a way to fool the computer into thinking everything is ok. So grind the location pins off and turn it into position so the computer reads the different position. Again, this is a straight up hack "repair" job but it feel thats what you are looking for.
Yep, I don't like it either. My logic was, maybe tensioner went bad, or wasn't replaced, at the time, when repair was done, so I thought, if undo it and see it's not completely out, I will put new in, reset timing, and wait what computer will tell me.
Also, alternatively, if tensioner is ok, and I would only release the chain and turn cam to match marks, then, I will not fool computer, so it will tell me, when teeth would be skipped again, and THEN, I would put engine apart. Maybe it would last quote long.
You know, what is bothering me, is that after chain and balancer repair I drove around 60k miles, BUT I was driving like an old man all the time, so I don't see how I could have caused it to fail again.
Maybe my assumptions are wrong, but if there's any way to check what is really wrong, and/ or "repair" it temporarily, I would like to do so.
So, maybe it is better to turn the cam, and wait what computer is going to tell me, rather than fool it?
Yep, I don't like it either. My logic was, maybe tensioner went bad, or wasn't replaced, at the time, when repair was done, so I thought, if undo it and see it's not completely out, I will put new in, reset timing, and wait what computer will tell me.
Also, alternatively, if tensioner is ok, and I would only release the chain and turn cam to match marks, then, I will not fool computer, so it will tell me, when teeth would be skipped again, and THEN, I would put engine apart. Maybe it would last quote long.
You know, what is bothering me, is that after chain and balancer repair I drove around 60k miles, BUT I was driving like an old man all the time, so I don't see how I could have caused it to fail again.
Maybe my assumptions are wrong, but if there's any way to check what is really wrong, and/ or "repair" it temporarily, I would like to do so.
So, maybe it is better to turn the cam, and wait what computer is going to tell me, rather than fool it?
The teeth won't skip. There isn't enough room above the cam gear for the chain to raise up enough. the cam position changes due to excess slack in chain from stretch or wear
The teeth won't skip. There isn't enough room above the cam gear for the chain to raise up enough. the cam position changes due to excess slack in chain from stretch or wear
I'm a bit confused, as You said something about skipping teeth in Your previous post.
What other alternatives do I have without removing engine?
Should I try to change chain, and hope for the best regarding gear? (I saw it is possible with opening only one head cover)
If there's no other way, I have to finish to convert my shed into garage, and go for it, removing an engine. Maybe it's not as difficult, as I imagine.
I'm a bit confused, as You said something about skipping teeth in Your previous post.
What other alternatives do I have without removing engine?
Should I try to change chain, and hope for the best regarding gear? (I saw it is possible with opening only one head cover)
If there's no other way, I have to finish to convert my shed into garage, and go for it, removing an engine. Maybe it's not as difficult, as I imagine.
I believe I posted they DONT skip. The guy in the video is moving the cam a tooth forward because there is extra slack due to a excess slack in chain, not because the cam one day decided to move a tooth over. if the idler gear/balance shaft gear is worn you will get extra slack in the chain, the tensioner will take up that slack from the now smaller gear and pull the right side cams back throwing them out of time. I would diagnose the issue properly before throwing parts at it.
I believe I posted they DONT skip. The guy in the video is moving the cam a tooth forward because there is extra slack due to a excess slack in chain, not because the cam one day decided to move a tooth over. if the idler gear/balance shaft gear is worn you will get extra slack in the chain, the tensioner will take up that slack from the now smaller gear and pull the right side cams back throwing them out of time. I would diagnose the issue properly before throwing parts at it.
I agree. Is there any way to diagnose is it chain, or balancer shaft?
I believe it should be one or another?
Following that logic:
In any case chain has to be changed.
So I could change chain at first, and see if problem persists. If nothing will change, I'll pull out the engine.
Does it make any sense?
Is there any better workflow regarding this issue?
I believe I posted they DONT skip. The guy in the video is moving the cam a tooth forward because there is extra slack due to a excess slack in chain, not because the cam one day decided to move a tooth over. if the idler gear/balance shaft gear is worn you will get extra slack in the chain, the tensioner will take up that slack from the now smaller gear and pull the right side cams back throwing them out of time. I would diagnose the issue properly before throwing parts at it.
So would recommend changin chain, before pulling engine?
Hi @knowbenz , appreciate for your advice on error code stored on ECU that signal fault of the ignition coil diagnostic. Engine still working fine and I have replaced ECU, ignition coil, spark plug and even injectors but problem still persists.
Hi @knowbenz , appreciate for your advice on error code stored on ECU that signal fault of the ignition coil diagnostic. Engine still working fine and I have replaced ECU, ignition coil, spark plug and even injectors but problem still persists.
What should I do to get a rid of this error code?
Well, it looks like it's a stored code so how about clearing it? Does it keep coming back and misfiring? what year is it?
My vehicle is S350 2008 and my friend S350 2009 has the same issue (state of my friend on this error code is Store & Current). The issue is not cause misfiring, engine working very well however when I erase code, it will come back after certain of time.
My vehicle is S350 2008 and my friend S350 2009 has the same issue (state of my friend on this error code is Store & Current). The issue is not cause misfiring, engine working very well however when I erase code, it will come back after certain of time.
Try tightening all the pins on the coil connector. I've had a bunch of them loose but they usually result in misfires.
Try tightening all the pins on the coil connector. I've had a bunch of them loose but they usually result in misfires.
Thing make me surprise is that Pin 4 of ignition coil is used for control and diagnostic therefore if the pin is not contact properly then misfiring also might occur but it's not my case.
I will try tightening all the pin one more time to see whether problems still persists or not and will let you know outcome later on. Thank a lot for your advice, highly appreciated.
If you have a male test lead for that you can check the pin drag and compare it to others. The connectors on the early ones are known for getting loose pins. It is strange that there is no misfire though.
If you have a male test lead for that you can check the pin drag and compare it to others. The connectors on the early ones are known for getting loose pins. It is strange that there is no misfire though.
I remove the pín of the ignition connector, clean the surface and twist a little bit...then the ignition coil diagnostic error are gone. It is confirmes that the problem due to connector is lost contact.
again, thank a lot foe your advice, you are very kind.
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