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You shouldn't worry about it, just tighten it a bit. The main purpose of tensioner must be installed after valve cover installation to ensure that camshafts are in fixed position because only auxiliary camshafts bearing will not enough to keep camshafts in fixed position.
Just did that yesterday. I've chosen 2nd picture for timing, reset tensioner and put head cover without silicone. Checked timing at 40, and 305 all seems fine.
So now, I have to change tensioner, and put some sealant.
Where to put sealant? On the head, or on the head cover? I saw on two separate video they show differently.
Also do You tighten it to specs immediately? I've once learned, that sealant should dry for a night, and only then I should apply second torque part.
Just did that yesterday. I've chosen 2nd picture for timing, reset tensioner and put head cover without silicone. Checked timing at 40, and 305 all seems fine.
So now, I have to change tensioner, and put some sealant.
Where to put sealant? On the head, or on the head cover? I saw on two separate video they show differently.
Also do You tighten it to specs immediately? I've once learned, that sealant should dry for a night, and only then I should apply second torque part.
Thank You.
Sealant you do on the head or on the head cover will get the same result, since sealant on the head cover is more easy then I usually i do it on the head cover.
Once you put sealant on head cover, you need to install it within 15min and tourque to specs immediately.
Now I ran into very stupid problem. My torque wrench, although has ratchet in both directions, it doesn't click on left hand bolt.
So, unable to torque cam gear.
I have just started the engine.
Used my Icarsoft MBII scan tool to delete check engine light. Now it doesn't come back as it used to.
Then I went to look for actual data. And in two separate sections found this:
Number looks the same as it was before. What does that mean?
Last edited by Simonas.st; 01-25-2020 at 10:37 AM.
Adaptation values is that learned value that can be relearned after repair.
Sorry, but I didn't understand. Check engine light is off, and I have these numbers. Do I have to go to dealership for adaptation, or should I just drive it?
Also, I was thinking, what if I have put chain one teeth different place, than it was?
I'll tell You where I'm coming from. If You remember that "hack repair" video, where guy just moved chain one teeth, and CEL has disappeared. I was thinking, maybe in my case, it is not new chain, that cleared that code, but maybe I have moved chain one teeth, and therefore now everything aligns? What do You think?
I have connected my scan tool, and found P0011 continuous camshaft adjustment (RIGHT) incorrect position of the intake camshaft. Current state. Deleted it, and it didn't showed up again. BUT, what does it mean? Did I set timing wrong, or what?
Hi @Simonas.st everything still working well with your car as I guess?
Hi, Minh,
I don't know yet. As I wrote before, I'm in doubt, if changing chain mended it, or I have just skipped one teeth, ant that "mended" check engine light.
I haven't driven it yet. Was searching for popping noise, which is described in another topic. But I'm about to take a small test drive.
I don't know yet. As I wrote before, I'm in doubt, if changing chain mended it, or I have just skipped one teeth, ant that "mended" check engine light.
I haven't driven it yet. Was searching for popping noise, which is described in another topic. But I'm about to take a small test drive.
Any update on this? I do believed that your car engine is now working properly and I think problem due to camshaft gear skipped one teeth, ant that "mended" check engine light and replace timing chain is not necessary?
Any update on this? I do believed that your car engine is now working properly and I think problem due to camshaft gear skipped one teeth, ant that "mended" check engine light and replace timing chain is not necessary?
I just want to get an updated result of your car? did you conclude what is the root cause of check engine light earlier? is it due to wrong position of camshaft gear (one teeth) or due to timing chain?
I just want to get an updated result of your car? did you conclude what is the root cause of check engine light earlier? is it due to wrong position of camshaft gear (one teeth) or due to timing chain?
That's what I would like to know as well. But I don't know how to make sure, and knowbenz is not joining us anymore.
As he told before, chain doesn't skip teeth. Cams come to retarded position because of slack in chain, which could be from chain, or idler gear.
I don't know if You get me, but what I'm saying, it could be, two scenarios:
1. I have changed the chain, and that's all what was needed to fix it.
2. My idler gear is worn out, but when I have changed chain, I have moved one teeth, and therefore no check engine light. (not very probable, as idler gear was changed 60k miles ago)
I still haven't driven it yet, but I will in near future.
I got to drive a car a bit, and got fault code for right intake cam P0011. I thought it is aftermarket magnet, that I've put in for testing purposes, so swapped it back to original. No fault codes yet, but I still have that strange adaptation 0, as I've posted in post #104. Any ideas, why it is 0, should it be so, or not?
Also, when warm, I experience couple of seconds longer cranking before starting. Never an issue, when cold.
It is possible, as I have fan issue, which points to ecu as well.
If only it would be possible to diagnose properly.
I think you can check camshaft magnet solenoid first by remove harness and then apply 12v supply on solenoid then you should hear a click, otherwise magnet solenoid is faulty.
I think you can check camshaft magnet solenoid first by remove harness and then apply 12v supply on solenoid then you should hear a click, otherwise magnet solenoid is faulty.
I've tried to diagnose by removing magnet, and measuring resistance while spinning metal object around it. It changes in numbers, so I thought it is checked. Does it really just gets 12v and clicks?
I afraid that just supply 12v to check click might not enough for diagnostic camshaft solenoid as this solenoid actuated by PWM signal (150Hz) therefore constant current with 12V DC supplied to solenoid might not able to see it fauty.
I afraid that just supply 12v to check click might not enough for diagnostic camshaft solenoid as this solenoid actuated by PWM signal (150Hz) therefore constant current with 12V DC supplied to solenoid might not able to see it fauty.
Looks like it is easiest way to interchange magnets, and check what it says. Could You confirm, that 0 in adaptation data means something wrong.
Now I've driven car like 150km, and it is flawless.
I believe I posted they DONT skip. The guy in the video is moving the cam a tooth forward because there is extra slack due to a excess slack in chain, not because the cam one day decided to move a tooth over. if the idler gear/balance shaft gear is worn you will get extra slack in the chain, the tensioner will take up that slack from the now smaller gear and pull the right side cams back throwing them out of time. I would diagnose the issue properly before throwing parts at it.
@knowbenz thank you for chiming in on the very similar issue that I face too (timing off by a bit; intake cam stuck at 36.2 degree from spec of 36.0; cam sprocket shifted by one tooth=6 degree while P0016 allows for 10 degrees before throwing code). While I totally agree with you that "I would diagnose the issue properly before throwing parts at it", could you suggest next step in diagnosis? Cam solenoids and sensors have been replaced. Dealer saw the codes and jumped right at balanced shaft which is totally non sense to me? Thank you.
@knowbenz thank you for chiming in on the very similar issue that I face too (timing off by a bit; intake cam stuck at 36.2 degree from spec of 36.0; cam sprocket shifted by one tooth=6 degree while P0016 allows for 10 degrees before throwing code). While I totally agree with you that "I would diagnose the issue properly before throwing parts at it", could you suggest next step in diagnosis? Cam solenoids and sensors have been replaced. Dealer saw the codes and jumped right at balanced shaft which is totally non sense to me? Thank you.
4 channel oscilloscope with engine running will show the exact positions. If the timing is off you will see it on the scope. Exhaust is geared to intake so both of them will be off on the right bank. Don't trust actual values through the computer as a way to check timing.
Yep, I don't like it either. My logic was, maybe tensioner went bad, or wasn't replaced, at the time, when repair was done, so I thought, if undo it and see it's not completely out, I will put new in, reset timing, and wait what computer will tell me.
Also, alternatively, if tensioner is ok, and I would only release the chain and turn cam to match marks, then, I will not fool computer, so it will tell me, when teeth would be skipped again, and THEN, I would put engine apart. Maybe it would last quote long.
You know, what is bothering me, is that after chain and balancer repair I drove around 60k miles, BUT I was driving like an old man all the time, so I don't see how I could have caused it to fail again.
Maybe my assumptions are wrong, but if there's any way to check what is really wrong, and/ or "repair" it temporarily, I would like to do so.
So, maybe it is better to turn the cam, and wait what computer is going to tell me, rather than fool it?
@Simonas.st I’ve been reading your issues and your dealership’s diagnoses with awe! To give you a few pointers of why they are: you had balance shaft and stuffs replaced a few years ago and now they said timing chain and stuffs (!). My C300 has had 165K miles which is almost 300K km and neither BS nor chain is at fault. Look at the chain, it’s very Buffy (double chain) and thus can’t stretch easily.
If you go into the dealership and/or shops without OBD2 to read your issues, they could tell you all the stuffs (dealer told me to replace BS for $9,000; Indy told me chain for $3,000)! I have somewhat somewhat similar issue to you—and remember, it’s after 264,000 KM, that Intake on Bank1 stuck open at 36.2 degree after initially adjusts well accordingly. That means just one cam adjuster is failing (not failed yet) because car is doing its jobs day in and day out, given that a bit loss in performance at time when that Intake adjuster stuck open and not fluctuates anymore until engine stop/started again. I know all of this by reading Live data.
I actually took some video today, can that be loaded? I do not know this sites file sharing limits. The video was too large, cant load it. I have never done youtube I see some guys just upload it there and share a link but not a skill I have learned. I did not take photos just the videos which I see I can't share easily. Forum has a 20mb limit for uploads. My video was near 100mb.
EDIT: Sorry guys this note was supposed to be in another discussion, not sure how I posted in this one but it won't let me delete it so there you have it.
Since here and after reading what this discussion is about I did repair a 2008 E350 with the same cam codes causing my car to not pass smog. Did it the hard way, pulled the engine and tore it all the way down, heads off. Replaced the Balance Shaft, chains, Tensioners, and guides. Very odd was my old balance showed zero wear on the teeth/sprocket at 150,000 miles. If you laid the new timing chain and the old timing chain side by side the new chain was shorter, not by a lot maybe 1/2" but shorter for sure. I think the extra length is caused by wear in each and every moveable link in the chain. The extra length in the old chain allowed my timing on the passenger side, (US CAR) to lag behind causing the check engine light and would not pass smog. This was the very hardest engine repair I ever did and I work on a lot of engines. Pulling the engine to replace a timing chain, dang, that was not a good Mercedes idea. The good news was the timing was dead on after the repair and it passed smog. Bad news, this was a PZEV ultra low emission car and the fuel pump went out. I fixed that also but between the two repairs this was a ridiculous expensive car to fix. I did all the work and it was a really great running car, I loved it. Have a 2012 now, they have issues also.
Last edited by Westlotorn; 06-06-2023 at 02:06 PM.
01-23-2020, 03:00 AM
