One side lower after tire change.
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One side lower after tire change.
Guys, 08 4 matic, I had to change the driver side tire, after I did that, not the passenger side corner is lower. Or the driver side rear. Not sure.
Malfunction light came on but went away. Car was totally fine before that.
What could it be? Can I reset the suspension? Re calibrate?
The links are there for the ride hight, nothing changed.
Malfunction light came on but went away. Car was totally fine before that.
What could it be? Can I reset the suspension? Re calibrate?
The links are there for the ride hight, nothing changed.
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S500
assuming you have airtragic likely a seized level sensor (rather than the far better, but much more costly to keep on the road, ABC option)
seized is normal (service item replace the link arms every 5 years or accept one day you will get stuck - there is one each on the front (does front and side to side and one hidden does both rears)
when stuck they lie and the air pump might work harder trying to invent levels it can't attain - and or - a weep somewhere means the pump works too hard and gets a bit lazy
there's a big 40 amp orange coloured fuse under the bonnet in the Front SAM - if popped the pump stops and the car doesn't inform the driver - until the car levels are wrong enough the pump needs to come in - when it doesn't hit a level in a time frame, it then throws an error on the dash - with no leaks this can be 6 months after the fuse pops
if its popped you should replace the relay too - as they give up after everything has been working too hard
seized is normal (service item replace the link arms every 5 years or accept one day you will get stuck - there is one each on the front (does front and side to side and one hidden does both rears)
when stuck they lie and the air pump might work harder trying to invent levels it can't attain - and or - a weep somewhere means the pump works too hard and gets a bit lazy
there's a big 40 amp orange coloured fuse under the bonnet in the Front SAM - if popped the pump stops and the car doesn't inform the driver - until the car levels are wrong enough the pump needs to come in - when it doesn't hit a level in a time frame, it then throws an error on the dash - with no leaks this can be 6 months after the fuse pops
if its popped you should replace the relay too - as they give up after everything has been working too hard
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 406
Likes: 103
assuming you have airtragic likely a seized level sensor (rather than the far better, but much more costly to keep on the road, ABC option)
seized is normal (service item replace the link arms every 5 years or accept one day you will get stuck - there is one each on the front (does front and side to side and one hidden does both rears)
when stuck they lie and the air pump might work harder trying to invent levels it can't attain - and or - a weep somewhere means the pump works too hard and gets a bit lazy
there's a big 40 amp orange coloured fuse under the bonnet in the Front SAM - if popped the pump stops and the car doesn't inform the driver - until the car levels are wrong enough the pump needs to come in - when it doesn't hit a level in a time frame, it then throws an error on the dash - with no leaks this can be 6 months after the fuse pops
if its popped you should replace the relay too - as they give up after everything has been working too hard
seized is normal (service item replace the link arms every 5 years or accept one day you will get stuck - there is one each on the front (does front and side to side and one hidden does both rears)
when stuck they lie and the air pump might work harder trying to invent levels it can't attain - and or - a weep somewhere means the pump works too hard and gets a bit lazy
there's a big 40 amp orange coloured fuse under the bonnet in the Front SAM - if popped the pump stops and the car doesn't inform the driver - until the car levels are wrong enough the pump needs to come in - when it doesn't hit a level in a time frame, it then throws an error on the dash - with no leaks this can be 6 months after the fuse pops
if its popped you should replace the relay too - as they give up after everything has been working too hard
You mean the height sensors up front? one on each corner?
How could something go wrong over a tire change?
Thanks again.
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S500
YES - and the nasty to reach ONE at the back - the little 4 inch link arms have plastic sockets that fit over a 10mm mild steel ball - by some clever magic Merc invented plastic that bonds to metal as if its all made of metal and are welded together - then the ONLY movement comes in normal driving from small flex in the mounting brackets - once seized very large bumps / significant detection over time snap each of the 4 little flex links (of the mounting bracket) one by one - when the last snaps the car drops to the floor inside 10 seconds and you walk home and or damaged the air bags dragging the car on the ground
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 406
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YES - and the nasty to reach ONE at the back - the little 4 inch link arms have plastic sockets that fit over a 10mm mild steel ball - by some clever magic Merc invented plastic that bonds to metal as if its all made of metal and are welded together - then the ONLY movement comes in normal driving from small flex in the mounting brackets - once seized very large bumps / significant detection over time snap each of the 4 little flex links (of the mounting bracket) one by one - when the last snaps the car drops to the floor inside 10 seconds and you walk home and or damaged the air bags dragging the car on the ground
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Thread Starter
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I heard a snap yesterday. I couldnt get the 2 ton jack under the car, I hit the HIGH setting on on the suspension to get more clearance. As that was happening, I heard a pop.
I cant see the rear sensor to confirm if its broken or now. Too afraid to go under with a jack.
Debating to take it to dealer? Cant be that expensive.
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
If it's a fishing expedition check the fronts first.
Actually the car should throw a very specific code for the sensor that is no longer responding properly. You could also check ride heights from all 3 sensors and see which isn't changing. Don't need Star for that, only something cheap like the iCarSoft MB-II.
Actually the car should throw a very specific code for the sensor that is no longer responding properly. You could also check ride heights from all 3 sensors and see which isn't changing. Don't need Star for that, only something cheap like the iCarSoft MB-II.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2005
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YES - and the nasty to reach ONE at the back - the little 4 inch link arms have plastic sockets that fit over a 10mm mild steel ball - by some clever magic Merc invented plastic that bonds to metal as if its all made of metal and are welded together - then the ONLY movement comes in normal driving from small flex in the mounting brackets - once seized very large bumps / significant detection over time snap each of the 4 little flex links (of the mounting bracket) one by one - when the last snaps the car drops to the floor inside 10 seconds and you walk home and or damaged the air bags dragging the car on the ground
Great explanation. You guys are awesome. In any case, its cant be that expensive to repair. Rear sensor being the worst. Fronts are easy.
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S500
the rear is an utter nightmare !!!! NO sensible dealer will offer to do it !!!!
the park brake module on UK cars is on the left directly beneath the level sensor which is near the left rear drive shaft and almost impossible to see
I suspect the best thing is to undo the rear anti-roll bar at ALL points ( DO NOT just pop of the link arms and flex up to TRY and get room - you don't get enough room - and the bar is supposed to be bonded to the bushes) and wriggle about to try and stretch the metal clamp to the arm - WHICH IS IMPOSSIBLE !!!!!
or you bodge on with a worm drive clip
the park brake module on UK cars is on the left directly beneath the level sensor which is near the left rear drive shaft and almost impossible to see
I suspect the best thing is to undo the rear anti-roll bar at ALL points ( DO NOT just pop of the link arms and flex up to TRY and get room - you don't get enough room - and the bar is supposed to be bonded to the bushes) and wriggle about to try and stretch the metal clamp to the arm - WHICH IS IMPOSSIBLE !!!!!
or you bodge on with a worm drive clip
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 406
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the rear is an utter nightmare !!!! NO sensible dealer will offer to do it !!!!
the park brake module on UK cars is on the left directly beneath the level sensor which is near the left rear drive shaft and almost impossible to see
I suspect the best thing is to undo the rear anti-roll bar at ALL points ( DO NOT just pop of the link arms and flex up to TRY and get room - you don't get enough room - and the bar is supposed to be bonded to the bushes) and wriggle about to try and stretch the metal clamp to the arm - WHICH IS IMPOSSIBLE !!!!!
or you bodge on with a worm drive clip
the park brake module on UK cars is on the left directly beneath the level sensor which is near the left rear drive shaft and almost impossible to see
I suspect the best thing is to undo the rear anti-roll bar at ALL points ( DO NOT just pop of the link arms and flex up to TRY and get room - you don't get enough room - and the bar is supposed to be bonded to the bushes) and wriggle about to try and stretch the metal clamp to the arm - WHICH IS IMPOSSIBLE !!!!!
or you bodge on with a worm drive clip
Jesus. Im hoping its not the rear. Ill play with the front again today and then take it to a shop tomorrow. Either the driver side is raising it too much, or the passenger side is dead and not reading which is why the whole right side is lower.
Broken rear would affect both rear springs, not just one side right?
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Looks like its definitely passenger side front that doesn't want to lift.
Taking it to MB shop tomorrow. They can run codes and deal with it accordingly.
I was gonna list the car this week but looks like few more grand in fixing is what it wants before I list it.
Taking it to MB shop tomorrow. They can run codes and deal with it accordingly.
I was gonna list the car this week but looks like few more grand in fixing is what it wants before I list it.
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
Front sensor is easy. I believe this is the correct one but someone should confirm: Mercedes Level Sensor - VNE 0105427717 | FCP Euro
$50 and 30 minutes....
$50 and 30 minutes....
Thread Starter
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Thank you guys.
Took it to the shop leaning right all the way there.
Looks like passenger side struts developed a leak. I decided to change both of them with OEM units to avoid future headaches.
Took it to the shop leaning right all the way there.
Looks like passenger side struts developed a leak. I decided to change both of them with OEM units to avoid future headaches.
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
That's a good idea. When I did the upper control arms on my E55 I had to remove the struts so I was able to notice that the right side was Arnott and the left side was OEM. FFS, who does that???
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Thread Starter
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Update.
Wow the car rides so much better up front now. New Struts made a huge difference. Now I feel how tired the rear ones are. Oem its $600 each. I might do it soon to be on the safe side and enjoy the car a bit more.
I was gonna sell the car to avoid the strut change expenses, but I love the car too much and still enjoy a great deal.
Thank You all.
Wow the car rides so much better up front now. New Struts made a huge difference. Now I feel how tired the rear ones are. Oem its $600 each. I might do it soon to be on the safe side and enjoy the car a bit more.
I was gonna sell the car to avoid the strut change expenses, but I love the car too much and still enjoy a great deal.
Thank You all.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 2,138
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
