When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Vehicle: 2010 S500 (eruopean) Long wheelbase, 4-matic
Issue: rear end points in the air (the opposite of dragging near to the floor!)
After setting my suspension to sport mode, something went wrong when I went to comfort mode again.
My dash says: please wait a while for suspension adjustement. After a while, it reports a suspension fault.
The Icarsoft code is: 5287 : suspension strut implausible.
From my Icarsoft reader, the car registers a -66mm on the rear
So it pumps up the rear suspension. But is is already pumped up tot the max!
The sensor does give of a voltage (3,27V) so I deduce the wiring is all correct.
Could it be as simple as linkage that has slipped of?
Please give me your input on this issue.
One extra question: suppose I go under the car and I re-attach the linkage, would the car then immediately lower itself, and crusching me as a consequence?
same fault - somehow some go fully up rather than crash at the floor
there is a lever sensor above the park brake module - it snaps off through poor maintenance (left of the rear diff) - $30 but fitting is NOT a DIY job at home - don't drive like this
One extra question: suppose I go under the car and I re-attach the linkage, would the car then immediately lower itself, and crushing me as a consequence?
That seems like one of the rear strut valves not opening. Does your iCarsoft allow you to manually fill and release individual struts? I kind of stopped using my iCarsoft when I got the Xentry system in place so I don't remember what its limitations are.
@BOTUS : if I shoud not drive it like this, whats the risk? Should I have the car transported to a mechanic? Would a good jack with axle-stands do the trick? @Shadly1 : The reading of the height seems off, (unrealistic low, as car is indeed high), why would it make sense that the valve is not opening?
@BOTUS : if I shoud not drive it like this, whats the risk? Should I have the car transported to a mechanic? Would a good jack with axle-stands do the trick? @Shadly1 : The reading of the height seems off, (unrealistic low, as car is indeed high), why would it make sense that the valve is not opening?
Because it accepts air but does not release it. The air releases at the strut. It's a dump valve. It knows there was a problem after the signal was sent so that leads me to believe that the issue is in the strut. Check everything though. I think I've had to replace just about every component in the airmatic system for various reasons.
Maybe my logic is false (I am not an automotive engineer): is the input being the car is low, would the response not be to raise the car? Why would it open a valve if the input is the car is too low?
Maybe my logic is false (I am not an automotive engineer): is the input being the car is low, would the response not be to raise the car? Why would it open a valve if the input is the car is too low?
I sure hope I do not have to replace too much!
I don't know. It depends on where your car thinks "Level" is. Is your air compressor pumping the thing up constantly when your car is on? You can lift the back end of your car with a floor jack and jack stands if you want to take a peek at the linkage.
@BOTUS : if I should not drive it like this, whats the risk? Should I have the car transported to a mechanic? Would a good jack with axle-stands do the trick? @Shadly1 : The reading of the height seems off, (unrealistic low, as car is indeed high), why would it make sense that the valve is not opening?
damage to the suspension / car as too stiff and at any second it could crash to the floor and then you damage the suspension air bags - even on a smooth road at 15mph doing 400 yards to get home it felt horrific
look with a torch from left side rear wheel towards the diff - following the anti-roll bar you should see this link hanging off - had two post here it went full up, rather than down - it snaps off all of them (design feature)
the bracketry to the right on this pic, is the bit that cracks and the lower ball falls off - the clap remains on the ainti-roll bar - but the arm is left hanging on the level sensor - diagnostics reports utter rubbish and nothing is right, as the level sensor and struts can be anywhere
all I can think is maybe they fitted a spring as a safety fix on a later level potentiometer - so when it snaps off, it moves the sensor to min height (so it tries to pump the suspension up) rather than the dangling arm pulls the pot to max height, so it dumps all the air...
@BOTUS : Thanks for the picture! I now know what to look for to more acurately dignose the cause. I think I'm going to call the garage and have the car picked up to repair.
BTW for people in the future that find this thread: the part number is: A2213202589 (the last number is obscured in the picture).
Is used to be A2213202089.
Last edited by lli; Dec 25, 2022 at 06:23 AM.
Reason: added old part number
last garage I went to refused to do it because its such a horrible job.... good luck - the fronts you can do in 5 mins a side (worth getting these changed too) - incredibly the plastic socket seizes on the ball - the rear is the same idea, but you can't do it....
the bit that breaks is the little links - but the new clamp can't be clipped on without destroying it as there it just no room to work and its SO tight to clip home securely its just impossible
use worm drive clip and or remove the entire anti-roll bar and or drop the whole axel
Just an update: Had the car collected by the indy garage (45km away). Gave them the the tip BOTUS provided.
Problem was the link.
They had the same issue: it is very very hard to get the clamp installed the proper way. By forcing it in its place with a wrench, the clamp did not sufficinetly clamp anymore. Result: it could move sideways. They tried the hose-clamp solution, but ended up using stong glue to keep in in place. All in all they charged 1,5 hours of labor (transport nog included). I think they should not have tried the wrench, but immediately the hose clamp approach. But I am the theorist, not a practitioner....
last garage I went to refused to do it because its such a horrible job.... good luck - the fronts you can do in 5 mins a side (worth getting these changed too) - incredibly the plastic socket seizes on the ball - the rear is the same idea, but you can't do it....
Now I'm gonna get under mine and do it just for fun out of spite.
no worries you wont do it - even if you come back and pretend u have
I forget how much room and type of mounting of the bit most hinge it on (...ripping the bonded bushes from the arm )... if you can can remove all mounting points so its free floating it may be possible
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
