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Hello I recently purchased a 2007 S550. The car is pretty nice and drives great except for when i get up to around 50 miles an hour, while I'm pressing the gas peddle going up any type of incline or sometimes even on flat roads A hard vibration starts, while I'm only pushing down the gas at this speed that feels like its coming from around the middle of the car behind me. And yes it only happens while I'm pressing the peddle down. But not all the time, usually if I'm going up a slight incline or hill.
I had my car checked out by a MB mechanic who said he fix the problem (but did not) by rotating and balancing my tires, doing an alignment, new rotors and breaks, and control arms up front. I was pretty upset that he wasn't able to fix it and I guess didn't really test drive it enough to see if the problem was still there so I took it to another European mechanic who looked over my car. This second mechanic told me that since I had aftermarket wheels (Giovanna) that they were too big for the car and causing the vibration, that the car didn't have enough power to support these rims. But the previous owner said only recently the problem started, and told me the driveshaft upper bearing needed to be changed(previous owner isn't a mechanic so I don't know if that's true or not). But I honestly don't understand how my rims are considered too big by the 2nd mechanic, when I've seen several S550s with those 24 inch and sometimes bigger "drug dealer" rims lol. :P
They are extremely nice rims and were expensive too and I don't want to remove them since they complete the look of the car. The weigh about 70 pounds each so I know they are heavy. How can I fix this vibration? Would it possibly be the driveshaft upper bearing even though 2 mechanics didn't agree?( I'm not sure where the previous owner was told it was the driveshaft upper bearing) and if it is the rims being to big for the car how could I add more power/fix this issue? Thanks so much for anyone who reply's, and no removing the wheels isn't an option because I don't have the original rims to put on.
Hello I recently purchased a 2007 S550. The car is pretty nice and drives great except for when i get up to around 50 miles an hour, while I'm pressing the gas peddle going up any type of incline or sometimes even on flat roads A hard vibration starts, while I'm only pushing down the gas at this speed that feels like its coming from around the middle of the car behind me. And yes it only happens while I'm pressing the peddle down. But not all the time, usually if I'm going up a slight incline or hill.
I had my car checked out by a MB mechanic who said he fix the problem (but did not) by rotating and balancing my tires, doing an alignment, new rotors and breaks, and control arms up front. I was pretty upset that he wasn't able to fix it and I guess didn't really test drive it enough to see if the problem was still there so I took it to another European mechanic who looked over my car. This second mechanic told me that since I had aftermarket wheels (Giovanna) that they were too big for the car and causing the vibration, that the car didn't have enough power to support these rims. But the previous owner said only recently the problem started, and told me the driveshaft upper bearing needed to be changed(previous owner isn't a mechanic so I don't know if that's true or not). But I honestly don't understand how my rims are considered too big by the 2nd mechanic, when I've seen several S550s with those 24 inch and sometimes bigger "drug dealer" rims lol. :P
They are extremely nice rims and were expensive too and I don't want to remove them since they complete the look of the car. The weigh about 70 pounds each so I know they are heavy. How can I fix this vibration? Would it possibly be the driveshaft upper bearing even though 2 mechanics didn't agree?( I'm not sure where the previous owner was told it was the driveshaft upper bearing) and if it is the rims being to big for the car how could I add more power/fix this issue? Thanks so much for anyone who reply's, and no removing the wheels isn't an option because I don't have the original rims to put on.
If it was the rims it would not be doing it only at certain speed when pressing the gas. The problem most likely is the center drive shaft bearing or more like the rubber around the bearing has lost its strength and allows the shaft move sideways under load. With this the U-joint angle changes and with too much angle you get vibration. The previous owner is probably right. He just calls it upper bearing when the correct name is center bearing.
Hello I recently purchased a 2007 S550. I had my car checked out by a MB mechanic who said he fix the problem (but did not) by rotating and balancing my tires, doing an alignment, new rotors and breaks, and control arms up front.
Private sale or purchased from dealer, how long ago? If less than 30-60 days and purchased from dealer and not as-is (MB or not) as mentioned have dealer check shaft and all three mounts at no cost. Private sale, have independent revisit.
So I just got off the phone with the mechanic and he's trying to tell me that apparently my tires aren't balanced correctly... apparently I'll need to have them dynamically balanced even though I just had them balanced regularly...
this makes no sense because I never felt the vibration going down a hill at the same speed. Also as soon as I lift my foot off the gas peddle the vibration stops... very frustrating because the mechanic suggested about $8000 in repairs but said he wouldn't be able to fix the vibration since they don't dynamically balance tires. And that was literally the only reason I bought the car to him. And they called me 30 minutes before they close for the weekend and I can't get there fast enough so now my cars stuck there until Monday... what a waste of a whole week... I'm so upset
So I just got off the phone with the mechanic and he's trying to tell me that apparently my tires aren't balanced correctly... apparently I'll need to have them dynamically balanced even though I just had them balanced regularly...
this makes no sense because I never felt the vibration going down a hill at the same speed. Also as soon as I lift my foot off the gas peddle the vibration stops... very frustrating because the mechanic suggested about $8000 in repairs but said he wouldn't be able to fix the vibration since they don't dynamically balance tires. And that was literally the only reason I bought the car to him. And they called me 30 minutes before they close for the weekend and I can't get there fast enough so now my cars stuck there until Monday... what a waste of a whole week... I'm so upset
What repairs were suggested? And how did it come out to $8k???
So I just got off the phone with the mechanic and he's trying to tell me that apparently my tires aren't balanced correctly... apparently I'll need to have them dynamically balanced even though I just had them balanced regularly...
this makes no sense because I never felt the vibration going down a hill at the same speed. Also as soon as I lift my foot off the gas peddle the vibration stops... very frustrating because the mechanic suggested about $8000 in repairs but said he wouldn't be able to fix the vibration since they don't dynamically balance tires. And that was literally the only reason I bought the car to him. And they called me 30 minutes before they close for the weekend and I can't get there fast enough so now my cars stuck there until Monday... what a waste of a whole week... I'm so upset
What repairs were suggested? And how did it come out to $8k???
He kept trying to tell me that the vibration was occurring even when the cars going down hill, or even if foots off the gas. And that's definitely not true, but I'm not the type that likes to argue or be confrontational.
I honestly can't even remember everything, he was trying to tell me it needed motor mounts because there's a slight vibration at idle (there isnt) . said it needs new control arms. He wants to fix an oil leak. That's all I can really remember, I was mainly focused on how he said he can't fix my vibration because they can't do the balancing... but I have a feeling he barely test drove the car, there's absolutely no way the vibration that I'm talking about occurs when you take your foot off the gas...
Im really starting to regret even buying this damn car, I've had it a month and haven't even gotten to enjoy it yet...
Also I forgot to mention, that when I asked about the driveshaft central barring he said "there is only very slight play in it, not enough to cause that vibration, and I wouldn't even suggest changing it yet"
Well, usually you would only need to replace motor mounts when they're leaking. They're fluid filled. Because of the age of your car, they very well may need replacement. If the fluid has leaked out, your engine will move around a lot under a load. The trans mount can show up as a vibration, a shimmy or a clunk when accelerating or decelerating. Same with a drive shaft bearing. Tires and wheels can show as a speed dependent vibration but they will always vibrate at that speed. Acceleration and deceleration won't have anything to do with it.
Would you want to tackle any repairs yourself? This car has the potential to eat you alive if it goes to the mechanic every time it needs something.
Well, usually you would only need to replace motor mounts when they're leaking. They're fluid filled. Because of the age of your car, they very well may need replacement. If the fluid has leaked out, your engine will move around a lot under a load. The trans mount can show up as a vibration, a shimmy or a clunk when accelerating or decelerating. Same with a drive shaft bearing. Tires and wheels can show as a speed dependent vibration but they will always vibrate at that speed. Acceleration and deceleration won't have anything to do with it.
Would you want to tackle any repairs yourself? This car has the potential to eat you alive if it goes to the mechanic every time it needs something.
I wish I had the knowledge to repair the car myself. I only know how to do very basic stuff like change the oil. I looked at going to trade school for auto mechanics a month ago but it cost like 5 grand and that would take months to complete. I'm definitely feeling hopeless
I wish I had the knowledge to repair the car myself. I only know how to do very basic stuff like change the oil. I looked at going to trade school for auto mechanics a month ago but it cost like 5 grand and that would take months to complete. I'm definitely feeling hopeless
There isn't too much of a difference between changing your oil and changing your transmission mount. The hardest part about it is jacking up the car(safely) and getting under it. There are quite a few YouTube videos out there for our cars. I've even made a few. Just look up W221 and the part you want to replace. Some things are easy, some things are hard. The best way to learn is just do it.
There isn't too much of a difference between changing your oil and changing your transmission mount. The hardest part about it is jacking up the car(safely) and getting under it. There are quite a few YouTube videos out there for our cars. I've even made a few. Just look up W221 and the part you want to replace. Some things are easy, some things are hard. The best way to learn is just do it.
what would you suggest I do to get rid of this vibration first and foremost? I mean I really don't understand how balancing the tires dynamically would be a solution when I know for a fact the only time the vibration occurs is when your foot is on the peddle. ( even though the mechanic is saying he feels the vibration even when his foots off the gas peddle, I honestly don't think he spent much time at all diagnosing my car)
He said the driveshaft center barring doesn't have enough play in it to be causing the vibration. Although he did say there was a very minor amount of play in it.
Sorry if I keep repeating myself, I'm just at a lose of what to do.
wheels have two areas of balance
static and dynamic,
static balance is simply the heavy bit drops to the bottom (if the wheel is allowed to rotate freely), this is usually felt most around 58 to 65mph
dynamic balance is a side to side rocking motion and comes most in to play between 80 to 90mph
if you fit stupid overly large diameter and or wide wheels and tyres it maybe many places equipment can cope and they can't do the work. The wider and heavier the more the impact will affect the car. However there is no such thing as wheels and tyres that need more power... unless some idiot is heading in to lorry stuff...they go round in circles and the lighter the better !!!!
the easiest thing is to fit a standard set of wheels and tyres of known condition and drive the car... if its the wheels or your tyres the issue will stop instantly
what I have read above suggests most of the garages are looking to make the car better / safer rectifying a number of issues the vehicle has. as for you notice at one speed under load with to me means I'd be thinking gearbox as much as the other points - certainly swap the fluid and see what that's telling you. If keeping the car just do it regardless of any other issues
motor mounts fail - normal on a merc
gearbox fall to bits - normal on a merc
what mileage and what service history....
why does this site not give enough time to read your post before throwing the last edit gibberish - one can't go from microscope view and a pathetic narrow band window size, to grown up visible posting where you had a chance to tidy up minor errors that you could never see beforehand?
Also I forgot to mention, that when I asked about the driveshaft central barring he said "there is only very slight play in it, not enough to cause that vibration, and I wouldn't even suggest changing it yet"
Drive shaft (propeller shaft) bearing is mounted in a rubber bushing that allows the shaft to move radially when moved by hand. When this rubber gets old it gets weak and the shaft sag down by the weight of the axle. This changes the U-joint angle that then generates vibration. This vibration likely changes under load as load cause radial forces at the joint due to the angle that then flex the rubber more.
Your mechanic saying the bearing has only very slight play is nonsense as he probably did not remove the aluminum cover from the bottom of the car to get access to it.
If I remember correctly you also need to remove both tail pipes to be able to remove the cover. You cannot possibly tell anything about this bearing or holder condition without removing the cover and it most likely is not about the bearing, it is about the rubber holder for it.
Find a tire shop that uses Road Balance! That would be first on my list. Also, the less expensive fix. As far as you doing motor mounts or any of the other repairs being suggested, I wouldn't attempt them if you have never worked on cars. Easy way to get crushed!
Find a tire shop that uses Road Balance! That would be first on my list. Also, the less expensive fix. As far as you doing motor mounts or any of the other repairs being suggested, I wouldn't attempt them if you have never worked on cars. Easy way to get crushed!
sorry if I'm coming off as repetitive, Im just at a loss. I have good intentions.
But do you think taking it to a shop with Road Balance (what ever that is) will really fix the vibration I described?
frustrating, been to 3 shops total. Spent$3000 at the first, and the second 2 are giving me mixed opinions.
But to be honest I don't think the 2nd shop even wanted to touch my car. Because I made a big fuss about how the first place scratched my nice paint. Spent 3000 and still have the problem and now a scratch mark... sad... but I kept be pressistint to the 2nd telling the receptionist"please make sure anyone who comes in contact with my car is extra careful about the paint"... so I feel like I scared them away from wanting to touch my car. But that could just be my head feeling guilty for bringing my negative attitude to them.
Last edited by restartbutton; 02-05-2023 at 12:16 PM.
no garage will take extra care over a specific car - it's just a car - they will take the exact same care over every vehicle they see - however now the fun kicks in - depending upon the garage, the level of care on offer, is really down to the owner to figure out who's going to be least bad...
a good place where the owner encourages good behaviours and accepts things will go wrong and has enough sense to get the tech's to own up and sort the mess (and lose money) - or more likely a bunch of careless cretins with no morals. Then at least as big a consideration is the space and area the garage has to play with - you may have the world's best garage, but if space is a constraint and or other businesses around are idiots with nasty customers, it isn't going to matter how much they try...
With so much going on in people's live's a customer with a difficult non standard car that then starts getting fussy will upset most good garages... the better they are the more upset they will get if you ask them to be careful - the more previous places have molested the car, the more aggro it is likely to be to resolve the issue - so they will not want to do the work - and in their mind if the customer didn't leave the original garage to resolve, why does this garage need to take on your headache - when they have too much work of non messed up cars that just need normal servicing
bolt on another set of standard wheels and drive the car and see where you are...
So here's a picture of the diagnosis sheet I got from the mechanic (forgot to mention ESP light came on the morning I dropped it off, just my luck). ...I guess I'm about to try and get the tires dynamically balanced... 😕
My original math was wrong. That's way over $10k in repairs... I think I bought a lemon, just great. 🍋
Last edited by restartbutton; 02-06-2023 at 05:25 PM.
01-30-2023, 08:45 PM
