S-Class (W221) 2007-2013: S 320 CDI, S 350, S 450, S 500, S 550, S 420 CDI, S 600

2010 S550 woes

Old Jun 27, 2023 | 11:24 PM
  #1  
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2010 S550, & 2015 GL550
2010 S550 woes

Hey y’all,

So I am attempting to repair as much as I can my broken S550. Here is the backstory… about a month ago it was in an accident. Right front corner took a hit. The bumper, fender, headlight, and hood were toast. Also the coolant reservoir took a hit as well. After the accident my left rear air shock sagged all the way to ground. Ok now fast forward a bit and I started working on repairing her. I managed to get the fender and bumper off and I replaced the coolant reservoir with a used one I picked up online. So far so good. I thought the valve block might have been affected so I replaced that too with a used one. The rear suspension still did not want to raise up. So then I started looking for leaks in the hoses. That is when I found the culprit, a completely severed air line. Here is where things went wrong. It was wrapped up with a ton of wires with it, when I pulled back the electrical tape I not only exposed the broken line I also found an exposed wire. It’s not severed, but it is exposed. I must have touched it because now my car won’t start. The dash lit up like a Christmas tree, all kinds of errors were popping off. I left it for a day and when I came back it was completely dead. I tried jump starting the car and I was able to get the electronics back online but she won’t crank at all. Just clicks with the dash flickering as I crank. The scan tool is filled with error codes, tons of low voltage errors. Obd2 scan shows two codes, p0116 and p0607 codes. I cleared all codes and I tried jumping it again, this time letting the battery charge for a long time. But as soon as I disconnect the jumper cables the voltage goes from 12-13v down to about 4v and nothing works again. Battery is only a year old and alternator was replaced not even 9 months ago.

Any ideas what could be the issue?

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Old Jun 28, 2023 | 06:34 AM
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I expect the car has a low battery - if it drops to nothing surely the battery is just toast ?

get a fully charged battery - put support on it - before trying to play, get all light inside and out off, get all the HVAC fans off.... scan then wipe all the garbage codes

now where is it ?

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Old Jun 28, 2023 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
I expect the car has a low battery - if it drops to nothing surely the battery is just toast ?

get a fully charged battery - put support on it - before trying to play, get all light inside and out off, get all the HVAC fans off.... scan then wipe all the garbage codes

now where is it ?
That does make sense for it to be the battery. I mean yeah its not that old, but batteries can die prematurely. I will try that and see what happens. I'll post again afterwards.
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Old Jun 28, 2023 | 07:09 PM
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@BOTUS You're the man! You hit the nail on the head. It definitely was just the battery. Luckily for me it was still under warranty so I swapped it out for a new one and bang, fired right up. Now on to the rest of the repairs. This is my first time taking on such a large job so I'll be posting updates as I go.
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Old Jun 29, 2023 | 08:19 AM
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result - these things eat volts - the battery gets a tough time

I don't even try to do a diagnosis scan without the heater fans off, and at least a battery charger on the rear to give it a chance...
if trying to break it with an update I have a 40 amp power supply... the latest cars (some JLR stuff) need 120 amp battery support !!!!!


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Old Jun 29, 2023 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ocdjg
That does make sense for it to be the battery. I mean yeah its not that old, but batteries can die prematurely. I will try that and see what happens. I'll post again afterwards.
Your battery was in the accident. It probably failed internally from the impact.
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