S-Class (W221) 2007-2013: S 320 CDI, S 350, S 450, S 500, S 550, S 420 CDI, S 600

2009 S600 W221 P0300 Random Misfire

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Old Aug 17, 2025 | 07:35 PM
  #51  
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2007 S65
Originally Posted by MBKarma
@johnnyrocket52 I wonder if you have the torque specs wrong. See my attachment. 4Nm is the first stage of tightening and then I read that you go an extra 120 degrees from that, which I measured to be about 13Nm on my torque wrench!

I didn't initially know which engine I had so I just tightened mine down to 10Nm but I think I'm going to go back in and quickly tighten them up just a little more per the spec there. If anyone sees that I'm reading this wrong, please let me know.
On second thought, I think I missed my opportunity to do this right by initially torquing mine down to 10Nm. I think Mercedes did this spec so that the servicer would get resistance to 4Nm on a new gasket and THEN go 120 degrees past that, so on mine that were already torqued down to 10Nm, I think backing them off and then screwing them in until 4Nm resistance is working with a pretty squished gasket already, so 13Nm is probably too much and I expect doing this right with a fresh gasket would've yielded 10 or 11Nm worth of torque. I'm sure I'm being overly technical about it, but after an oil leak on finger-tight bolts caused me $2500+ worth of work, I'd like to get it right.

I think I'll sinch mine down to 11Nm and call it good, but I still think 4Nm is likely too loose based on the service manual.
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Old Aug 18, 2025 | 04:31 AM
  #52  
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From: Portland, Oregon
2009 S600 V-12
Originally Posted by MBKarma
@johnnyrocket52 I wonder if you have the torque specs wrong. See my attachment. 4Nm is the first stage of tightening and then I read that you go an extra 120 degrees from that, which I measured to be about 13Nm on my torque wrench!

I didn't initially know which engine I had so I just tightened mine down to 10Nm but I think I'm going to go back in and quickly tighten them up just a little more per the spec there. If anyone sees that I'm reading this wrong, please let me know.
I got the torque number from a few folks in the forum. I didn’t know torqueing a bolt was moved so many degrees after torqueing to a specific value. Is that how it’s done then to tighten it so many degrees past a specific torque value?
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Old Aug 18, 2025 | 07:33 AM
  #53  
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2007 S65
Originally Posted by johnnyrocket52
I got the torque number from a few folks in the forum. I didn’t know torqueing a bolt was moved so many degrees after torqueing to a specific value. Is that how it’s done then to tighten it so many degrees past a specific torque value?
Normally it isn't, but check my attachment and the torque specs at the end. Two stages of torquing, the second appearing to be a rotational degree value.
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Old Aug 18, 2025 | 11:03 AM
  #54  
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2007 S65
Originally Posted by MBKarma
Normally it isn't, but check my attachment and the torque specs at the end. Two stages of torquing, the second appearing to be a rotational degree value.
So I have an update that's pretty important to all users with the 275.98 engine. I interviewed a MB tech today who confirmed that I am correct on the 4Nm and then 120 degree twist beyond that, but he said we all need to be considering these bolts as ONE-TIME USE bolts, as they stretch and should be thought of as cylinder head bolts. I didn't know bolts stretched so this is all news to me.

The proper way to do this, per the tech, is to replace each of the bolts with a brand new, unstretched bolt, and torque it to 4Nm and then rotate 120 degrees after achieving that torque. If the valve covers need to come off in the future, the bolts should be replaced then, as well.

I have ordered replacement bolts and will be performing this when they come in, in a few days. I'll update the forums if I learn anything else.
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Old Aug 18, 2025 | 11:23 AM
  #55  
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S500
I nearly mentioned this when I saw tighten to 4nm then 120 degrees - sounds like the designed to snap gearbox sump bolts

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Old Aug 19, 2025 | 02:17 AM
  #56  
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From: Portland, Oregon
2009 S600 V-12
Originally Posted by MBKarma
On second thought, I think I missed my opportunity to do this right by initially torquing mine down to 10Nm. I think Mercedes did this spec so that the servicer would get resistance to 4Nm on a new gasket and THEN go 120 degrees past that, so on mine that were already torqued down to 10Nm, I think backing them off and then screwing them in until 4Nm resistance is working with a pretty squished gasket already, so 13Nm is probably too much and I expect doing this right with a fresh gasket would've yielded 10 or 11Nm worth of torque. I'm sure I'm being overly technical about it, but after an oil leak on finger-tight bolts caused me $2500+ worth of work, I'd like to get it right.

I think I'll sinch mine down to 11Nm and call it good, but I still think 4Nm is likely too loose based on the service manual.
Tightening these bolts on the coil pack and the cylinder head covers by torque wrench to 4Nm seemed OK. I tightened a few where the torque wrench couldn’t get to, matching them by feel to the 4Nm, and I could feel where the reused bots started to strip.

Still no fresh oil weeping down from cylinder head gaskets.

I hope the 120 degrees past 4Nm works with new bolts and you don’t strip any bolts.

Keep us posted.

JR

Last edited by johnnyrocket52; Aug 19, 2025 at 02:35 AM.
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