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You're going to leave us hanging for that long???? That's a forum sin!
Spring is in and as promised, I'm back! I finally got it off !!! I used as crap ton of penetrating oil, a map torch, and a slide hammer. And oh yeah, I had to remove the rack and pinion. Doing so gave me direct access to the intermediate shaft.
It was one of the worst experiences of my life! But to save ($5550 dealer charge), it was worth it. Now I'm waiting for my new intermediate shaft to come in being that my current one is seized to the cv axle.
Intermediate shaft w/ bearing Chain wrapped around cv axle and connected to a slide hammer Intermediate shaft and cv axle
If you had an induction heater you could remove the existing shaft from the axle.
I'm not familiar with how those work. But what I can say is that a map torch and penetrating oil are useless against this thing. t'm currenlty looking at simply buying anotheer intermediate shaft.
I'm not familiar with how those work. But what I can say is that a map torch and penetrating oil are useless against this thing. t'm currenlty looking at simply buying anotheer intermediate shaft.
Check out some videos on youtube. With an induction heater you expand the part that the axle goes into and burn off the rust which should make it easy to remove. An induction heater works great for rusty nuts and bolts.
Check out some videos on youtube. With an induction heater you expand the part that the axle goes into and burn off the rust which should make it easy to remove. An induction heater works great for rusty nuts and bolts.
I went to Youtube after I read your message. Seems like a pretty handy tool. I can definitely aee how it could be useful in the good ole rust belt. Thanks for the info.
I need some advice! I'm changing my CV joint, however, being that I live in the rust belt, the joint is not coming off so easily. I've read where many have said if the cv joint is rusted to remove the intermediate shaft first. Just so happens, when I removed the clamp that holds the intermediate joint in place, the intermediate shaft will not come dislodge.
I've blasted the intermediate shaft with penetrating oil and have hit it with a pry bar and hammer and it still will not dislodge. My question to anyone that has completed this job is can heat be applied? Will the heat damage the oil pan?
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I’ve been working on my 2013 S550 4matic for last month now. Multiple different jobs and I’m only at 82k miles or roughly 138,000 kilometers. I bought a cv axel puller of two kinds when I went into this job thinking it was simple. I was wrong. I dropped the spindle so I’d have a straight pull on the cv axel when I went to remove it. The passenger side was a breeze however the driver side…not so much. I soaked it with WD-40 and PB blaster. Neither worked. I hit the back side of the cup with a big punch and hammer and still nothing. That’s when I ordered the cv pullers. Got started on the job once again last night after waiting a couple days and I got it out. You need to note that there is a ring that holds the intermediate cv axel on the driver side to the oil pan. I didn’t remove mine when I went to pull on the cv axel. I got it off with an extra set of hands and a bunch of heavy hits with our slap hammer buuuut both the cv axel and intermediate cv axel came out as one piece which was not on my bucket list. Because the bezel on the oil pan that holds that ring in place for the intermediate cv axel completely broke of the oil pan. There is a video on YouTube that shows how easy it breaks especially in high rust areas. My question now is do I have to put that ring back in or no? Because if so, I now have to buy an oil pan. Upper and lower. Don’t make the stupid mistake I did and just remove that ring before you start pulling on anything. I think I’m going to put my intermediate drive axel in with out along with the new driver side cv axel and just use the bolt to hold it into place. I will keep you updated though brother. Best of luck!!!
I’ve been working on my 2013 S550 4matic for last month now. Multiple different jobs and I’m only at 82k miles or roughly 138,000 kilometers. I bought a cv axel puller of two kinds when I went into this job thinking it was simple. I was wrong. I dropped the spindle so I’d have a straight pull on the cv axel when I went to remove it. The passenger side was a breeze however the driver side…not so much. I soaked it with WD-40 and PB blaster. Neither worked. I hit the back side of the cup with a big punch and hammer and still nothing. That’s when I ordered the cv pullers. Got started on the job once again last night after waiting a couple days and I got it out. You need to note that there is a ring that holds the intermediate cv axel on the driver side to the oil pan. I didn’t remove mine when I went to pull on the cv axel. I got it off with an extra set of hands and a bunch of heavy hits with our slap hammer buuuut both the cv axel and intermediate cv axel came out as one piece which was not on my bucket list. Because the bezel on the oil pan that holds that ring in place for the intermediate cv axel completely broke of the oil pan. There is a video on YouTube that shows how easy it breaks especially in high rust areas. My question now is do I have to put that ring back in or no? Because if so, I now have to buy an oil pan. Upper and lower. Don’t make the stupid mistake I did and just remove that ring before you start pulling on anything. I think I’m going to put my intermediate drive axel in with out along with the new driver side cv axel and just use the bolt to hold it into place. I will keep you updated though brother. Best of luck!!!
I got lucky and us3d penetratimg oil and a MAP torch and successfully removed the intermediate shaft. It tool a looonnng time but it worked.
I removed the clamp prior to disengaging the intermediate shaft. I was also fortunate enough to have the bearing come out with the shaft. As far as reassemble, you will need the clamp to ensure that the intermediate shaft stays in place.
I'm sorry to hear that your oil pan was destroyed, but if you remove the rack and pinion, it may be possible to weld the aluminum. (something to consider). If thus isn't an option, replacing of the oil pan may be the only option.
Spring is in and as promised, I'm back! I finally got it off !!! I used as crap ton of penetrating oil, a map torch, and a slide hammer. And oh yeah, I had to remove the rack and pinion. Doing so gave me direct access to the intermediate shaft.
It was one of the worst experiences of my life! But to save ($5550 dealer charge), it was worth it. Now I'm waiting for my new intermediate shaft to come in being that my current one is seized to the cv axle.
Intermediate shaft w/ bearing Chain wrapped around cv axle and connected to a slide hammer Intermediate shaft and cv axle
Did you put any grease between the bearing and C clip? Did you add any grease to the splines ?
I recently had a torn boot on my W204 drivers side cv axle. The repair instructions and even the parts diagrams are the same as the W221. Same boots, clamps etc.
I did not want to deal with a stuck intermediate shaft which im sure my New England car has so I simply cut the inner boot and pulled out the axle leaving the inner hub in the car attached to the intermediate shaft. I did try tugging on the inner hub a bit and it wasnt easily coming out.
One thing I noticed is there is a plug in the back of the inner hub. I read in another thread somewhere that someone removed this plug and sprayed penetrating fluid in the hole and was then able to pull the hub from the intermediate shaft. I think it is part# 000443017000 on the diagram but I could be wrong since I never ordered one.
I didnt mess with that plug. I replaced the outer boot with the axle out of the car then put the axle back into the car/hub. The biggest issue I ran in to was how to properly install the larger clamp on the inner boot with it so close to the subframe. I solved that by using a vise type tool that just fit in that tight space. I cannot recommend that tool enough it worked great. Just in general for installing the clamps its great.
I think with a little work, you probably could have removed it. Might have been a good time to replace that bearing but anyway
Me? My only concern was replacing the torn boot.
While in there I visually inspected the bearing and it look fine, not signs of damage, no leaking grease etc. In the MB manuals they mention replacing the oil seal in the differential when removing/installing the passenger side cv axle yet in the instructions for removing/installing the intermediate shaft there is no mention of the oil seal even though it has one which I find odd. To replace the drivers side oil seal the differential would have to be removed which is a big job so im assuming thats why they left it out in the manual.
I just replaced my passenger side cv axle boots yesterday due to a tiny leak and did the same thing, left the inner hub in the car. I think I caused the damage to the boot while replacing the strut. I had inspected under the front diff recently and did not see any signs of leaking oil so I had no reason to replace the oil seal so I didnt want to disturb it.
I have a W204 so not sure if this way can even be done on a W221. On mine there is really limited room to fit the clamping tool on the inner most clamp, seems its the 11 o-clock position on the drivers and 1 o-clock position on the passenger side or else the subframe gets in the way.
During this job I realized the smaller inner bearing can be easily removed from the bearing. I was recently watching a video of someone rebuilding German tanks and he refurbished the drive bearing and showed how two notches are in them for installing/removing them. I found some gunk in these areas.
