ABS Pump Harness




Tried to open the connector but the harness was so tight it would not come out. The tops of the slides that the "cap" that you need to open is supposed to pull up broke. After tinkering with it I was able to pull the slides with needle-nose pliers for disconnecting the harness from the pump module.
This harness connection is very tricky to remove, and it is easy to break the slides if the harness is tightly in place like it in a 10+ years old car easily is so if anybody needs to disconnect the ABS pump harness you need to help the harness come out as you open the cap. If harness readily slides out, then it is easy and just opening the cap is needed.
But if you manage to break the slides you need to pull them up with pliers little by little alternating sides. Needle nose pliers will fit in the gaps where the tops of the slides are visible.
There is a low-cost fix for the broken slides. I can only imagine what a MB dealer would ask for replacing the whole harness as they probably would not repair the broken connector, so I started looking around and found the solution.
Picture below shows the connector that is used in a Chevy Captiva. I searched the "1355629" that is printed in the cap. I do not know if the harness itself is exactly the same, it looks like the same, but I just needed the slides of this connector.
Slides are exact fit so if anybody needs to repair the broken ABS pump harness this is one way to go.
Last edited by Arrie; May 4, 2025 at 12:58 PM.




The poor connections you're searching for are inside the ABS enclosure.
The circuit board is built using pressed pins that oxidize into marginal contacts.
You may want to...:
reboot chassis + clear faults
replace marginal module
repair module better than new
Before module totally fails is messes data bus which happenss to be CAN-C shared with top most VIP's: ECU-TCU. How has your tranny been shifting, well?
Besides ABS/ESP controls wheel brakes, it's best kept reliable.
More ESP pics in my signature.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 10, 2025 at 06:05 PM.




The poor connections you're searching for are inside the ABS enclosure.
The circuit board is built using pressed pins that oxidize into marginal contacts.
You may want to...:
reboot chassis + clear faults
replace marginal module
repair module better than new
Before module totally fails is messes data bus which happenss to be CAN-C shared with top most VIP's: ECU-TCU. How has your tranny been shifting, well?
Besides ABS/ESP controls wheel brakes, it's best kept reliable.
More ESP pics in my signature.
How do I open the "thing" like in your picture? I would solder the pins that I did for the CGW already.
I'm not experiencing any ill effects that I know about, just the stupid "f" at the ABS module when run the test with the DAS but I can see how these solderless pins can do the same that my CGW did when I got multiple errors from multiple modules. When that happened, it could not be those individual modules all failing at the same time. So, the culprit was those push pins in the CGW.
Almost makes me wonder if this is a calculated deliberate "time bomb" made for these cars to fail producing multiple errors and fails to make money fixing these cars...
I know BOTUS will get a kick out of this...
Last edited by Arrie; May 10, 2025 at 09:44 PM.




How do I open the "thing" like in your picture? I would solder the pins that I did for the CGW already.
I'm not experiencing any ill effects that I know about, just the stupid "f" at the ABS module when run the test with the DAS but I can see how these solderless pins can do the same that my CGW did when I got multiple errors from multiple modules. When that happened, it could not be those individual modules all failing at the same time. So, the culprit was those push pins in the CGW.
Almost makes me wonder if this is a calculated deliberate "time bomb" made for these cars to fail producing multiple errors and fails to make money fixing these cars...
I know BOTUS will get a kick out of this...
Perhaps you just need to "reboot whole chassis".
This very simple procedure is fairly effective at restoring networking sanity. Do that bi-monthly or as needed with a battery float charge.
Do you have pics of your CGW fixing??
This main gateway is an ultra busy module and can be fairly unstable with networking issues.
Can you take couple pics of your module, they are actually easier to open than ECU. Not all ABS use solderless circuitry. Some are more reliable than others.
Have a look at this thread !
ESP head separated
Disclaimer: fixing any brake components may be hazardous. The expected repair is to code new replacement parts. A few Internet shops offer refurb services. I do not.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 10, 2025 at 11:40 PM.




Perhaps you just need to "reboot whole chassis".
This very simple procedure is fairly effective at restoring networking sanity. Do that bi-monthly or as needed with a battery float charge.
Do you have pics of your CGW fixing??
This main gateway is an ultra busy module and can be fairly unstable with networking issues.
Can you take couple pics of your module, they are actually easier to open than ECU. Not all ABS use solderless circuitry. Some are more reliable than others.
Have a look at this thread !
ESP head separated
Disclaimer: fixing any brake components may be hazardous. The expected repair is to code new replacement parts. A few Internet shops offer refurb services. I do not.
Soldering fixed almost all errors. I have one for the Airmatic pressure sensor that is reading high pressure at all times. Need to get new sensor I guess, may require buying the valve block to get it though…?
The ABS module error is a small “f” and there is no code so I really don’t know what it is for.




When looking at your board we can see the various sections:
- Opticouplers near the connector
- I/F discrete chips (OpAmps?)
- MCU with nearby Clk
- SD-RAM
- ROM Firmware storage
- power supply with regulator + cap.
My W212 CGW got married with SAM: single board but still 2x CPU.
CGW love chassis reboots !!
4Matic has a few standard failures such as the rusted steel valve jamming inside.
Sensors connectors use poor water seal protection... RTV as many as you find before water penetrate by capilarity (bumpper radars sensors!!)
> TEST:
-- Read the sensor with your scanner:
does position not vary with suspensions level?
-- The sensor arm has a steel ball joint that rust in place then brakes off to get serviced.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; May 11, 2025 at 04:41 PM.


