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So, replace the entire thing? For the motor, does that have any kind of coding, or just remove old motor and put new motor?
Like to be specific, I can send out black electronic part for repair, and then ALSO replace the motor part, is that what you are saying?
Scan and clear ALL the codes in EVERY module.
Whatever comes back is your issue.
Botus has a bee in his bonnet about things being designed to fail. Whilst he may be right, is does somewhat muddy the diagnostic process.
Unless any codes directly relate to the hydraulic side of the system you can safely leave this in place.
A quick eBay search suggests that people only sell the complete unit. This is fine. It helps protect the electronic side during shipping. However, I would only use the electronic part as once the hydraulic part has been left open to the atmosphere it is effectively junk because you have zero idea of how long it has been open. The ONLY exception would be a unit removed from a car that you personally saw running/driving that day.
Also, the hydraulic side is an absolute bastid to bleed so that's another reason to leave well alone.
I also gave you three distinct options and processes along with an off to help with the coding (depending on your actual location) but you're allowing the noise to confuse you.
So, replace the entire thing? For the motor, does that have any kind of coding, or just remove old motor and put new motor?
Like to be specific, I can send out black electronic part for repair, and then ALSO replace the motor part, is that what you are saying?
I would buy a second hand module before sending it out for repair. I went the repair route, it lasted a little over a year. You have more information available to you than I did when I had these issues, time to get to work.
Scanned and cleared all codes in the iCarsoft menu.
Drove the car and the ABS ESP came back on.
Ran scan again, and got the same two codes as seen in the pictures (see attached pictures).
So, the only way around having to code a replacement unit is to have the original one that is in the car currently sent out for repair? I would prefer not having to do any coding, as i do not have a Xentry system. I appreciate your offer to help with coding, but I am in CA and it is too far of a trip to Seattle.
If i have to replace the unit, this is where you would need to code it in order to not get dash warnings about the new replacement unit not being coded for the VIN, correct?
I am going to try the Dyno road test thing, because hey why not right. Anyway thanks again for everything everyone.
With Xentry you can attempt to calibrate the unit and if that fails that's one of the tell tale sign that the module is bad. With this car, yours is 18 years old, you need Xentry or someone that has Xentry.
Scanned and cleared all codes in the iCarsoft menu.
Drove the car and the ABS ESP came back on.
Ran scan again, and got the same two codes as seen in the pictures (see attached pictures).
So, the only way around having to code a replacement unit is to have the original one that is in the car currently sent out for repair? I would prefer not having to do any coding, as i do not have a Xentry system. I appreciate your offer to help with coding, but I am in CA and it is too far of a trip to Seattle.
If i have to replace the unit, this is where you would need to code it in order to not get dash warnings about the new replacement unit not being coded for the VIN, correct?
I am going to try the Dyno road test thing, because hey why not right. Anyway thanks again for everything everyone.
Where in Cali are you? San Diego, LA and San Francisco are all potential for April. I get longer as well which makes it easier.
If you don't want to sent your unit out, grab a used one from one of the sellers I suggested and swap the electronics over. It might not need coding, and even if it does, it should serve as verification for diagnostic purposes. That way you'll be able to make a more informed decision with solid data😉
The hydraulic code might be a red herring depending on what chaos the electronics fault is causing. For example, the ECU fault might be a short in the data from the hydraulic system, making it 'think' there's a hydraulic fault.
If you do go down the 'replace the whole assembly' route, contact one of the sellers I suggested and placed a request for a unit from the next car they part out rather than one that's been in bits for a while. It will minimise your chances of having other issues.😉
UK has been at war with germany since 1880 when they never mentioned the i people are taking over as they've got too much info on cannibalism and child abuse - which might mean why I notice more designed to fail issues than some other markets
UK has been at war with germany since 1880 when they never mentioned the i people are taking over as they've got too much info on cannibalism and child abuse - which might mean why I notice more designed to fail issues than some other markets
I understand what you mean Easyphil, but I really need a simple plug and paly option at this moment, even if it only lasts 1-2 years at this point. I cannot go through the process of having to code a unit, or having to do some crazy brake bleeding job for the pressure side of this issue. I am hoping if i can go AL5461 suggestion and get on off ebay and at least make sure this is the issue prior to sending it out for repair. At least i can hopefully get the ABS/ESP codes to go away and maybe only some new codes for VIN mismatch show or something stupid.
Of the three sites that were posted, all seem to be in the UK. Are there any in the USA?
I swear i found a link to one on another forum in here and it was a different site than those three.
Anyway, I think I am at a point where I just want a plug and play repair option. So, I know getting the OEM one that is currently installed remanufactured will remove any coding issues, but what are my chances of getting a used one off ebay that also does not need to be coded again? Pretty slim? Pretty likely?
Because i was thinking to grab one off ebay and swap it to at least verify it is the module causing the issue, and then hopefully the one i do purchase does not throw any VIN codes. LOL. HOPEFULLY fingers crossed.
I understand what you mean Easyphil, but I really need a simple plug and paly option at this moment, even if it only lasts 1-2 years at this point. I cannot go through the process of having to code a unit, or having to do some crazy brake bleeding job for the pressure side of this issue. I am hoping if i can go AL5461 suggestion and get on off ebay and at least make sure this is the issue prior to sending it out for repair. At least i can hopefully get the ABS/ESP codes to go away and maybe only some new codes for VIN mismatch show or something stupid.
Of the three sites that were posted, all seem to be in the UK. Are there any in the USA?
I swear i found a link to one on another forum in here and it was a different site than those three.
Anyway, I think I am at a point where I just want a plug and play repair option. So, I know getting the OEM one that is currently installed remanufactured will remove any coding issues, but what are my chances of getting a used one off ebay that also does not need to be coded again? Pretty slim? Pretty likely?
Because i was thinking to grab one off ebay and swap it to at least verify it is the module causing the issue, and then hopefully the one i do purchase does not throw any VIN codes. LOL. HOPEFULLY fingers crossed.
Does this sound like a viable option?
Garage Man in Sacramento or that place in Oceanside... Both on eBay.com.. you can lead a horse to water and all that🤦
At risk of being rude, Google *Garageman Sacramento" and all your dreams will be answered. Just bear in mind what I said about a used hydraulic unit that's been disconnected for more than a day or two. The electronic part will be fine, the hydraulic side will be scrap.
Just to add, currently in Bermuda and that search produced the exact result I expected.
i had previously reached out to garageman on ebay and provided VIN and they replied they did not have a unit for that VIN. Would any unit work? I am trying to not have to recode the unit. I wont be able to and at the point will just be swapping one dash warning for another if it throws a VIN mismatch, correct?
For this one, it is possible it doesnt need to be coded, but also possible it may need it?
Says its for 4matic, but i know its VIN associated, correct?
i had previously reached out to garageman on ebay and provided VIN and they replied they did not have a unit for that VIN. Would any unit work? I am trying to not have to recode the unit. I wont be able to and at the point will just be swapping one dash warning for another if it throws a VIN mismatch, correct?
For this one, it is possible it doesnt need to be coded, but also possible it may need it?
Says its for 4matic, but i know its VIN associated, correct?
Without knowing your VIN, and therefore using EPC for ALL the options for 550 4matic, that unit doesn't match any of the numbers on the part you linked to.
GarageMan (and others) all clearly state that electronic components may require programming.
All the ECUs are created equal with the same software. The various parts numbers essentially refer to the boxes ticked within that software... ie 4matic/Distronic/Armoured/engine size/wheel size etc.
Even if you bought one from MB for your exact VIN, yes it would be box ticked appropriately for the exact configuration your car, it would still need to be plugged in for it's initial installation coding and software update check. A used unit is also going to be full of fault codes just from being disconnected. So if you think you'll get away with fitting a unit and it working 100%, you're dreaming.
Any vendor will say it doesn't match your VIN because they simply don't want the responsibility for getting it wrong.
That one from Iowa will almost certainly work, but it looks like ****.
Personally, as it's relatively local and as you're going to ignore my advice regarding using a second hand hydraulic unit, I would buy this one:
1. It's easily one of the cleanest units for sale.
2. All the lines are fully crimped closed meaning it won't have been sat open to atmosphere at all, so might actually still function.
3. Just fit the electronic part to your unit and fit your dead electronic unit back onto this hydraulic block to protect it. Then, in the extremely unlikely event you actually need the hydraulic unit, you have a decent one ready to go.
4. It's in the same state, so less chance of it getting smashed to bits during shipping.
If you want an accurate selection of parts numbers I need your VIN, and there's a chance I will be in Cali twice in April, if you say approximately where you are, I can adjust my schedule accordingly. If not, I'll be sat by a pool drinking Margaritas in Vegas.
Whatever part you buy, please at least use your eyes when making the decision.
Without knowing your VIN, and therefore using EPC for ALL the options for 550 4matic, that unit doesn't match any of the numbers on the part you linked to.
GarageMan (and others) all clearly state that electronic components may require programming.
All the ECUs are created equal with the same software. The various parts numbers essentially refer to the boxes ticked within that software... ie 4matic/Distronic/Armoured/engine size/wheel size etc.
Even if you bought one from MB for your exact VIN, yes it would be box ticked appropriately for the exact configuration your car, it would still need to be plugged in for it's initial installation coding and software update check. A used unit is also going to be full of fault codes just from being disconnected. So if you think you'll get away with fitting a unit and it working 100%, you're dreaming.
Any vendor will say it doesn't match your VIN because they simply don't want the responsibility for getting it wrong.
That one from Iowa will almost certainly work, but it looks like ****.
Personally, as it's relatively local and as you're going to ignore my advice regarding using a second hand hydraulic unit, I would buy this one:
1. It's easily one of the cleanest units for sale.
2. All the lines are fully crimped closed meaning it won't have been sat open to atmosphere at all, so might actually still function.
3. Just fit the electronic part to your unit and fit your dead electronic unit back onto this hydraulic block to protect it. Then, in the extremely unlikely event you actually need the hydraulic unit, you have a decent one ready to go.
4. It's in the same state, so less chance of it getting smashed to bits during shipping.
If you want an accurate selection of parts numbers I need your VIN, and there's a chance I will be in Cali twice in April, if you say approximately where you are, I can adjust my schedule accordingly. If not, I'll be sat by a pool drinking Margaritas in Vegas.
Whatever part you buy, please at least use your eyes when making the decision.
Just to add to this, I will be available in the Los Angeles area, and mobile, on April 9th. If I need to bring my laptop, you'll need to let me know ahead of time.😉
i had previously reached out to garageman on ebay and provided VIN and they replied they did not have a unit for that VIN. Would any unit work? I am trying to not have to recode the unit. I wont be able to and at the point will just be swapping one dash warning for another if it throws a VIN mismatch, correct?
For this one, it is possible it doesnt need to be coded, but also possible it may need it?
Says its for 4matic, but i know its VIN associated, correct?
You're throwing darts blindfolded here. To get the correct part number for your car, the VIN is required. Without the part number, you're setting yourself up for failure searching for things on eBay. The other thing is that the same part number can run software for a rear wheel drive, 4Matic or other variations. You may have the right part number but the software may not be the same. This means in addition to the part number that corresponds to your VIN you also need to know what software your current module is running which is something you use DAS/Xentry to determine, though other diagnostics tools may provide that information. I use DAS/Xentry and I'm not familiar with other diagnostic software that can used with these cars.
To summarize...
1. You need your VIN to get the correct part number
2. You need to interrogate your current module to determine what software it is running which will be different depending on how your car is optioned
3. With the information from 1 and 2 you can begin searching for a used part.
You're throwing darts blindfolded here. To get the correct part number for your car, the VIN is required. Without the part number, you're setting yourself up for failure searching for things on eBay. The other thing is that the same part number can run software for a rear wheel drive, 4Matic or other variations. You may have the right part number but the software may not be the same. This means in addition to the part number that corresponds to your VIN you also need to know what software your current module is running which is something you use DAS/Xentry to determine, though other diagnostics tools may provide that information. I use DAS/Xentry and I'm not familiar with other diagnostic software that can used with these cars.
To summarize...
1. You need your VIN to get the correct part number
2. You need to interrogate your current module to determine what software it is running which will be different depending on how your car is optioned
3. With the information from 1 and 2 you can begin searching for a used part.
This sure is a thirsty horse...
I will also be in San Francisco on April 26th, same applies, although I am planning a drive to Crescent City and back...😉
i had previously reached out to garageman on ebay and provided VIN and they replied they did not have a unit for that VIN. Would any unit work? I am trying to not have to recode the unit. I wont be able to and at the point will just be swapping one dash warning for another if it throws a VIN mismatch, correct?
For this one, it is possible it doesnt need to be coded, but also possible it may need it?
Says its for 4matic, but i know its VIN associated, correct?
When I was having the abs warnings pop up in mine I was thinking about either getting a used unit or send mine out. I used the part #'s to get pricing. I also noticed my foxwell scanner let me go into the abs and get the part #, which is just the same thats on the label.
So, the issue went away on its own. Research points to maybe the weather getting warmer. I will still be getting a used unit off ebay and swapping it out. Have not had the time and lately been using it to drive a few miles a week around town and the ABS/ESP code has stayed off. Got in contact with a place called module masters here in USA and they can rebuild whole thing and pump part for $450. But i still think the used option from ebay for 199.99 or so is better.
THANK YOU EVERYONE for all of your input and assistance. As always, it is extremely welcomed and always an absolute pleasure. Thanks.
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