Hello All,

I am not sure how much of this information is relevant to the problem, but I will go in order up until the issue showed up.

Had Airmatic light recently related to small air leak and replaced airmatic reservoir, and both front struts were remanufactured from Rebuild Master and replaced. Replaced both sway bar links on the front.

Recently after coming home from a 300 mile drive there were no issues.

Started the car pulled out of the driveway and around 15-17 MPH the ABS ESP light comes on the dash, the steering gets rough, and the car suspension gets bouncy.

Figured I have had this issue before and it was speed sensors. Last time it was rear. Replaced rear and this issue went away immediately.

This time, I ran MB iCarsoft II scanner and i got two codes and only two codes, front right and front left speed sensor. So, I ordered some new "A-Premium brand", which is the same brand I replaced rears with, test drove the car and the ABS ESP light still came on. So, I rescan and now the speed sensor codes are gone, but there are other codes about internal faults. I use the MB iCarsoft scanner to check to make sure I get a MPH/KMH reading from it on the live data, and I do. All readings rise and fall normally. Same with voltage test while driving.

Just to rule out the cheap sensors I bought, I reinstalled the old ones that are OEM to see if it would just throw the speed sensor codes and not internal faults, just in case these other code were from cheap sensor.

Now with original sensors in that threw the speed sensor codes, are now no longer throwing speed sensor codes and only the internal fault codes (see pictures below). I also rerun the live speed data test and the speed sensor data is just fine for MPH/KMH and voltage.

So, at this point I am assuming it is not speed sensor or magnetic ring. Must be an issue with ABS module.


QUESTIONS:
I was looking through the forums and this portion caught my eye about putting the car in dyno mode, driving it a little while, and then out of dyno mode. This may help reset some settings within the ABS module and help with issues with these codes occurring.

Is this a viable fix and has anyone tried this or heard of this, or is it best if I get these errors to just send it out for rebuild since it seems to be around 450$ to send out the ABS module for repair. But how do I "KNOW" it's the ABS module and these are not just false codes or like others have said, "miscalibration".

Toward the bottom they talk about dyno mode and recalibrating. I do not have a Xentry scanner, but do have MB iCarsoft II

ABS/ESP Errors - How I Resolved Mine - MBWorld.org Forums

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFwX...M5MTE3LDI4NjY2

I don't want to chase a bunch of parts trying to fix this because a few of these forum posts sound like mini nightmares and make me want to sell my car. LOL
W221 2008 s63 amg / ESP module / Component a7/7b2 issue - MBWorld.org Forums
Thinking of replacing your ABR/ESP module? Here's my story. - MBWorld.org Forums


Thanks ahead of the time for all the assistance.

 

airtragic light isn't ABS

check the link rods to all three sensors they seize up and give issues - the hidden rear likes to snap off

ABS issues are often sensors - on 4x4 is different - but on normal rear drive cars the front ABS reluctor is the inside face of the front wheel bearing's seal - it builds magnetic crud and doesn't help give sensible reading as would worn sloppy wheel bearings
the rear is a naff replaceable ring on the drive shafts - they corrode and fall off too - you can't really see the rear ones
ABS should not impact suspension - lose the speed signal and it can impact the steering

 

Don’t use cheap sensors. When one fails, replace in pairs with OEM quality on that axle.

also check that you didn’t damage harness during the strut/link rod exchange.

 

looking at the fault code pictures just now - that’s more like the ABS unit needs to go off for repair

 

When this happened with my 2013 S550 it was the left front speed sensor. At that time I did not have the Xentry/DAS yet, I only had the iCarsoft MB II, but it was able to show the front left wheel speed sensor error in multiple of modules, like 4-5 of them.

I think the error needs to be reset separately in every module for the system to be back to normal. I was able to do this with the iCarsoft scanner.

I would also disconnect/reconnect the big ABS wire harness to make sure this is not a bad connection issue at the harness. If you do this be careful with disconnecting it. In my car I broke the “lever” cap that is supposed to pull the harness apart when you open it. You need to help the connection to come apart when you open the cap. I had to find replacement for it, which was actually easy as the same harness connection is used in very many car models, not just MB.

 

Yea that was my fear. Since, I get good readings from speed sensors and magnetic rings in bearings with the live data on the iCarsoft scanner. Have any good recommendations for a place to send it out to? Thanks again.

So, the DYNO mode has nothing to do with maybe recalibrating it? Thanks.

 

BBA Reman or similar should be able to test and fix it. It's an electronic issue rather than a mechanical one.

Worst case it will need replacing.

The electronic portion can be removed from the ABS block, six screws iirc, and sent away.

If it can't be fixed, then your options are chance a second hand one and the related coding required (it will probably throw a code for VIN mismatch) or a new unit.

The electronic part is available separately but will require a vin to confirm the correct one. Your local dealer will be best placed to obtain this part number.

Not that I am a fan of giving them the business, just that their EPC is live so is the most upto date for specific parts information 😉

 

I'd be wary about just posting the black electronic box for repair

whilst there is indeed a built in, designed to fail fault that is easy to permanently fix. On the VAG and BMW vehicles using the same ABS module the main failure is they deliberately set the ESP pump motor brushes too tight - so after enough use the brushes bind up and the pump motor fails to run - On BMW bikes using the same module, the fix is to fit a Ford motor as they never play up ! VAG had a class action lawsuit that went against them and they must provide a rebuild kit - but as usual its very costly, vs a secondhand far better used ford unit, which is peanuts

German business and the government there are just criminals

 

I don't understand how you can be so jaded and still use their products🤔

 

the whole world is sick - if its not one bunch of incompetent criminals its another - I like rear drive, I stupidly believe they still make better drivers cars - and my heart tells me they can't be as bad as I know they are

I'm in the middle of writing a rejection letter to BMW as we speak !!!

 

Fair enough. Thing is, with the W221, as fancy as it is, it's still a near 20 year old car. Approach it that way and you'll not go too far wrong 😉

 

Using the part number for your car, I would look for a second hand one from ebay or a salvage yard. You may need to reprogram it if the one you purchase is for a base model and you have a 4matic and vice versa.

 

So, answer is, hope it can be fixed, if not buy replacement and code it? How do i code it? I do not have xentry system and do not know of anyone who does.

@BOTUS, why did you say "I'd be wary about just posting the black electronic box for repair"? Is this not the correct way to take it apart and send it off for rebuild? Guess i am just still confused on whether or not the black electrical portion can be removed and sent off for rebuild.

Just to be clear, you originally said it sounds like time to send it out for repair, did you mean the whole entire piece and not just the black electronic portion?

Just weighing the options if it is better to maybe retire this car and put my time and energy into something else. Seems like this little ABS module can turn into a HUGE DIY thing, or a expensive fix from the dealership. At this time, I do not have xentry machine and I do not know how much time i have to chase down codes and reprogram things. Just looking at all available options put kind of simply. Like option 1.) hope rebuild is good for 400$,
option 2.) if rebuild cant be done, then buy new/used and reprogram? or is it possible to buy one using VIN and part number that i DO NOT have to program?,
option 3.) take it to Mercedes and have them do the work for many many thousands of dollars?

Also, please open to other options.

Thanks again.

 

It's six? screws to remove the electronic portion. So absolutely a DIY job, if a bit fiddly if access is tight.
Does your car have Distronic? According to a quick EPC search, it matters, but my own experience says different... I retrofitted Distronic to my 2006 S500 and coded it in without issue.

1. Yes the electronic part can be removed leaving the hydraulic part installed. Obviously you want to be sure that it's properly covered to prevent any dirt from getting in. Whilst the car is technically driveable with it removed, you would be criminally stupid to do so. Remove it and send it away, or remove it and get the part number off it (if it's not immediately visible) and refit it whilst you choose option 2 or 3.

2. Using the part number on your unit, source another one from eBay, there's a couple of decent W221 dismantlers on the West Coast... Garage Man in Sacramento and Dream Rides Auto Parts in Oceanside, or take a chance at your local Pull A Part type place.

3. Alternatively, go to your local MB dealer and order a new one.

For coding, it's quick and easy enough to do. I may be able to assist, but it depends on where you are... I visit the US a regularly for work most months, (Houston and Seattle in March...) but I am rarely in each place for more than 24/48 hours. That said I have Xentry and can bring my laptop easily enough. Programming should be straightforward enough, and beer tokens are always appreciated.

Starter for 10: https://www.ebay.com/itm/256226488561

Simply swap the electronics and bin the rest. If it works straight off, happy days😉 There's no distinction between production years, so a unit off a newer car will be a part number that superceded the unit your car left the factory with.

 

Have you reset the error codes in all modules individually yet? It is not enough just to reset the ABS module. I would definitely do this before starting to fix the ABS "cube".

-Engine Control Module ECM
-Transmission Control Module TCM
-Electronic Stability Program Module ESP
-Antilocking Brake System (of course) ABS

These modules all had the front left wheel speed sensor error and I think there was something else yet. Power steering perhaps as steering got really stiff when this sensor failure happened.

 

ESP and ABS are the same unit😉

 

there are two deliberate faults in these units - an electronic one inside the black box and the usually far bigger issue that is the ESP pump electric motor brushes sticking and the motor fails to run - there is little point resolving one without the other

you should not be attempting to work on a car without adequate equipment - the icarsoft thing should be enough to resolve your issue if you cure the basics designed in faults - however if you wish to code a new unit to the car they level of fun and tools tend to step up a bit - things like the traction control is specific to each engine size and I guess short long / wheel base, 4 x4, 5 or 7 speed etc.

the ABS issue is standard across the car industry ATE and Continental are German crooks

 

Actually comes under Adaptive Braking...

Just had to clear a code in mine but it also set codes in ISM and Parking Brake...

 

Internal error and powwe steering rough is clear symptom of ESP error, it's well know issue of the W221ESP. There is a faulty of the chip inside ESP.

 

Yes,

now as you mention I had the front left speed sensor error in these modules too and I remember really wondering why in the hell is it in the parking brake???

 

I think it self releases if it detects movement whilst in gear with no brake pedal applied.

I say 'think' because I don't recall ever having deliberately trying it...

I was also trying to recall the other module that I had to clear the ABS codes from and it was indeed the Engine one😉

 

I just hope the OP goes resetting the codes before trying to repair the ABS unit as fixing it will not help if these cores in the other modules remain.

 

I plan on giving all the sections in the iCarsoft menu a double check to see if there are any other codes that are hanging around. Just to make sure it is not a hardcode in another area like you are saying. Thank you for the input. Greatly appreciated.

 

So, replace the entire thing? For the motor, does that have any kind of coding, or just remove old motor and put new motor?

Like to be specific, I can send out black electronic part for repair, and then ALSO replace the motor part, is that what you are saying?

 

you can use a secondhand valve body with your own black box - then there is no coding or programming at all (just make sure its a compatible valve body)

all the muddle up about clearing codes is all mumbo jumbo - wipe any fault code on any module at any time, it makes no difference to anything else - sure if you don't make a note of the code and later you want it research what its about you won't have it

the ONLY weird madness is at times the car can get a hissy fit on and secretly wants to follow a road test procedure (where is basically wants to see it go lock to lock and go forwards and backwards) this can be achieved using the steering wheel buttons to get at the same eng. menu area as the volt meter and you drive up the road with the ESP light on and heavy steering - somehow this can make the ant brain ESP module refresh its idea of what the ABS sensor are telling the car - why it gets like this is weird (sometimes its following strange maint processes via Xentry - throwing confusion around the canbus ) I find it hard to believe but some having ABS issues claim this road-test cures their ABS fault and they never come back on the forum - I'd like to disbelieve but over 10 years about 5 claim it works