When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I wanted to join the discussion and provide my experience thus far. I've been following this thread for a long time and recently had a bulb go out on my 2015 S550. I'll keep the details short, but as you guessed it the silica packet burst on the driver's side light knocking out one bulb, auto high-beams, and dynamic lighting. I pulled the module behind the headlight and took pictures of the crusty module and exploded packets then sent the car to my local MB dealer. Dealer quoted me $4000 to replace the entire assembly even though I told my rep the TSB they did 4 years ago destroyed the module. He was great, but said he really can't do anything, and I should contact MB corporate to see if they can chime in. After months of back and forth they only offered me 20% off the headlight assembly and that was the best they can do.
I decided to do some research and found the module on eBay from a trusted seller in the US for $58. I ordered it on Monday, it arrived today, and I decided to install it even though it's 17 degrees outside. Everything is working again as it should with no errors!
For those of you who have a blown light or module, replace just the module and do not let MB tell you otherwise. It's their design flaw that caused the condensation and their fix is a band aid that will destroy the module. They won't own up to it and make matters worse by recommending a $4000 headlight replacement. I'm still unsure if I should put the packets back in, but I guess I'll see how bad the condensation is before I make my decision.
DO NOT PUT THEM BACK IN !!!! DEALER TRIDE TO BLAME ME FOR DAMAGE, IT WAS THE EXPLODING PACKETS!!! They did not last a year. Replaced Headlights 2 times. They told me the new headlights they put is will not need them, 1 year later, same problem, guess what, they put them in and basically lied to me. They replaced the units, no solution from MB headquarters, I had them silicone the electronics. If you take a close look at the design, when the Gel Pack explodes, it will run right down the light and into the Controller.
Don't do it.....
Can please Explain the non removal of headlight gel pack replacement process... i want to look into this.
Regards
Kevin
apologies about the delay i posted the instructions to replace both headlight gel packs without removing the bumper or headlights on this thread some time back.... here a link
Hi there, this is me. I created this blog site to share share with my local mercedes UK dealership, mercedes UK and mercedes sindlefingen.
But i go no where with any if them, standard reply please take matter up you local mb dealership. Which I did many times, on one occasion leaving the car with them for 3 weeks.
It seems the best course is to live with the moisture. There is no proven remedy yet. I do see a little condensation from time to time, but perhaps my climate is less conducive to the moisture issue.
As you and sclass350 had done, I think I might put a bead of silicone on the inside seam of the module. I'm not planning on putting the silica packets back in and want to protect the electronics at the very least. I find it odd there is no gasket or protection in the casing of the module.
All Cars Lost To Hurricane Isaac (W124 E420 revived - added 88 Allante 14 S550, 17 S63
Originally Posted by cfmistry
It seems the best course is to live with the moisture. There is no proven remedy yet. I do see a little condensation from time to time, but perhaps my climate is less conducive to the moisture issue.
I have considered using a substance ( ElectriCorr VpCl-286 ? or even potting resin) to incase the inside circuitry To make it waterproof.
but there are other substances that literally incase the circuit and is several mils thick... i dont know it off hand,
Also, One could use a known flexible rubber coating (commercial quality) on the plug and socket itself. A mess to remove, but maybe you never have to.
Of course this does not fix the unsightly water drops on the lens.....
Last edited by kafklatsch; Feb 7, 2023 at 02:24 AM.
For what it’s worth my 2018 S63L used to get moisture inside the headlights. Pretty soon after aquiring it I PPF’d the whole car including the headlights. From that point forward no moisture ever inside the headlights. The only thing I can put it down to is perhaps the xpel sitting on top of the headlights changes how quickly the temperature changes transfer thru to the inside of the headlight. Anyway, no more moisture for me. 🤩
For what it’s worth my 2018 S63L used to get moisture inside the headlights. Pretty soon after aquiring it I PPF’d the whole car including the headlights. From that point forward no moisture ever inside the headlights. The only thing I can put it down to is perhaps the xpel sitting on top of the headlights changes how quickly the temperature changes transfer thru to the inside of the headlight. Anyway, no more moisture for me. 🤩
I had Xpel on my prior headlights and my replacement headlights - did not stop the issue for me.
1. Fabricating 4 plugs(21.5x15.5 mm/tick abt 8 mm) by using gun for hot glue with inserted plastic pipe/connector. These will be later inserted in the drain like ends of the lower part of the headlights.
2. Removed the plastic liners under the front fenders ensuring access to backside of the headlights.
3. Inserting plugs by gluing them with epoxy compound(part A+B).
4. Attaching small hoses with dia appx 4 mm to the plugs and tracing them to the area where are the hinges of bonnet.
5. Attaching to the end of that hoses Denko-Nitto filter elements
6. Performing pressure test by connecting manual pump(from blood pressure device) and soap water where plugs were glued to headlights. Just by 2-3 pumps and if there was a problem with epoxy, the bubbles would be seen.
Molding the plugs Fabricated plug Hot glue gun Inserted plug Attached hoses Manual pump Soap pressure test Tracing hoses 1 Tracing hoses 2 Tracing hoses End part of hoses with Denko-Nitto filters installed
By this simple modification I hope, that the drain like ends of the lower part of headlight will suck the relatively not so hot air from the area between the rear front fender and plastic liner and not directly the hot and humid air circulating in engine bay. On other side I have some doubts, that these rectangular drain like ends of the headlights are giving direct access to the internal space of the headlight assembly without any filtering.
I have installed above on 22 April 2023 and till now I have not experienced any condensation during rain(5-6 times) simultaneously with rapid drop of temps(during rain I monitor temperature and usually it comes from 24 to 12 degrees C) and carwashes, despite that I tried to provoke conditions to obtain condensation(pouring direct cold water under pressure), except one time.
It was during very heavy rain and dropping the temps from 24 to abt 14 degrees C. The driving period was about 25 mins. When I cleared the rain patches I checked and found very minor and thin spot of condensate of the right headlight, which was cleared literally in 2-3 mins. Approximate size of that patch was abt 1,5x2,0 cm but what was interesting for me, that it was almost in the middle of the lens(not in lower end). Basis on my previous experience with this car (since 18.Oct.2018) condensation sometimes in very heavy extent was observed even during not so harsh conditions.
Hoping that all above will keep this unpleasant issue under control, as I am sure that it could not be avoided, but at least my point is to reduce it to the extent not posing a risks. Will keep You posted( if I still keep the car).
Hi everyone. I literally read everyone's post. I too am having the same issue. I have a 2015 S63 that I've had from day one. I've had my lights replaced 6x. I know I am a fool. I've gotten attached to this car and I just can't understand for the life of me how a car with 80k miles on it, I can't even drive it without the lights and modules going out. So can we all come to some type of consensus that the fix is to. Cause these technicians down here in Mississippi is confused and they are sick of me at the MB dealership.
1) Remove the Gel Packs
2) Silicone the modules
I think I can deal with the moisture in the light if I can just not have the modules going out.
Hi everyone. I literally read everyone's post. I too am having the same issue. I have a 2015 S63 that I've had from day one. I've had my lights replaced 6x. I know I am a fool. I've gotten attached to this car and I just can't understand for the life of me how a car with 80k miles on it, I can't even drive it without the lights and modules going out. So can we all come to some type of consensus that the fix is to. Cause these technicians down here in Mississippi is confused and they are sick of me at the MB dealership.
1) Remove the Gel Packs
2) Silicone the modules
I think I can deal with the moisture in the light if I can just not have the modules going out.
deffo remove their gel packs as they soak up the water very easily. In my w213 I am changing the silicon gel packs every month as it’s easy to get to. They still steam up but at least I know they won’t blow the light and module!
1. Fabricating 4 plugs(21.5x15.5 mm/tick abt 8 mm) by using gun for hot glue with inserted plastic pipe/connector. These will be later inserted in the drain like ends of the lower part of the headlights.
2. Removed the plastic liners under the front fenders ensuring access to backside of the headlights.
3. Inserting plugs by gluing them with epoxy compound(part A+B).
4. Attaching small hoses with dia appx 4 mm to the plugs and tracing them to the area where are the hinges of bonnet.
5. Attaching to the end of that hoses Denko-Nitto filter elements
By this simple modification I hope, that the drain like ends of the lower part of headlight will suck the relatively not so hot air from the area between the rear front fender and plastic liner and not directly the hot and humid air circulating in engine bay. On other side I have some doubts, that these rectangular drain like ends of the headlights are giving direct access to the internal space of the headlight assembly without any filtering.
I have installed above on 22 April 2023 and till now I have not experienced any condensation during rain(5-6 times) simultaneously with rapid drop of temps(during rain I monitor temperature and usually it comes from 24 to 12 degrees C) and carwashes, despite that I tried to provoke conditions to obtain condensation(pouring direct cold water under pressure), except one time.
It was during very heavy rain and dropping the temps from 24 to abt 14 degrees C. The driving period was about 25 mins. When I cleared the rain patches I checked and found very minor and thin spot of condensate of the right headlight, which was cleared literally in 2-3 mins. Approximate size of that patch was abt 1,5x2,0 cm but what was interesting for me, that it was almost in the middle of the lens(not in lower end). Basis on my previous experience with this car (since 18.Oct.2018) condensation sometimes in very heavy extent was observed even during not so harsh conditions.
Hoping that all above will keep this unpleasant issue under control, as I am sure that it could not be avoided, but at least my point is to reduce it to the extent not posing a risks. Will keep You posted( if I still keep the car).
That is quite a process, hopefully it solves it for good.
Guys you can just seal the vents, there is not enough heat to need the vents. You can use something like silicone tape and only with a sealed headlight install diseccant pack.
Silicone on the module sounds like a good simple failsafe.
But yes definetly do not use silica packs on a vented headlight as you cannot dry the world.
Guys you can just seal the vents, there is not enough heat to need the vents. You can use something like silicone tape and only with a sealed headlight install diseccant pack.
Silicone on the module sounds like a good simple failsafe.
But yes definetly do not use silica packs on a vented headlight as you cannot dry the world.
Guys you can just seal the vents, there is not enough heat to need the vents. You can use something like silicone tape and only with a sealed headlight install diseccant pack.
Silicone on the module sounds like a good simple failsafe.
But yes definetly do not use silica packs on a vented headlight as you cannot dry the world.
That sounds like a good idea : ) maybe other than those packs, I heard they dissolve after a few years (MB dealerships putting those in the headlights to mitigate the issue) and then leak and damage the control module but I think that is because of excessive moisture for those not sealed headlights.
1. Fabricating 4 plugs(21.5x15.5 mm/tick abt 8 mm) by using gun for hot glue with inserted plastic pipe/connector. These will be later inserted in the drain like ends of the lower part of the headlights.
2. Removed the plastic liners under the front fenders ensuring access to backside of the headlights.
3. Inserting plugs by gluing them with epoxy compound(part A+B).
4. Attaching small hoses with dia appx 4 mm to the plugs and tracing them to the area where are the hinges of bonnet.
5. Attaching to the end of that hoses Denko-Nitto filter elements
6. Performing pressure test by connecting manual pump(from blood pressure device) and soap water where plugs were glued to headlights. Just by 2-3 pumps and if there was a problem with epoxy, the bubbles would be seen.
Molding the plugs Fabricated plug Hot glue gun Inserted plug Attached hoses Manual pump Soap pressure test Tracing hoses 1 Tracing hoses 2 Tracing hoses End part of hoses with Denko-Nitto filters installed
By this simple modification I hope, that the drain like ends of the lower part of headlight will suck the relatively not so hot air from the area between the rear front fender and plastic liner and not directly the hot and humid air circulating in engine bay. On other side I have some doubts, that these rectangular drain like ends of the headlights are giving direct access to the internal space of the headlight assembly without any filtering.
I have installed above on 22 April 2023 and till now I have not experienced any condensation during rain(5-6 times) simultaneously with rapid drop of temps(during rain I monitor temperature and usually it comes from 24 to 12 degrees C) and carwashes, despite that I tried to provoke conditions to obtain condensation(pouring direct cold water under pressure), except one time.
It was during very heavy rain and dropping the temps from 24 to abt 14 degrees C. The driving period was about 25 mins. When I cleared the rain patches I checked and found very minor and thin spot of condensate of the right headlight, which was cleared literally in 2-3 mins. Approximate size of that patch was abt 1,5x2,0 cm but what was interesting for me, that it was almost in the middle of the lens(not in lower end). Basis on my previous experience with this car (since 18.Oct.2018) condensation sometimes in very heavy extent was observed even during not so harsh conditions.
Hoping that all above will keep this unpleasant issue under control, as I am sure that it could not be avoided, but at least my point is to reduce it to the extent not posing a risks. Will keep You posted( if I still keep the car).
Regretably to say that this modification DOES NOT WORK. Will revert with findings.
Hi.
Again for headlight condensation.
It was noted by my side, that many car brands are not so severely affected by this problem, rather than some MB models. Even some other brands have same headlight manufacturer(AL company). All this means, that there are some specific factors present in MB, which boost subject issue. My understanding tells, that the main reason is heat exchange of headlight housing. Heat emission from engine in engine compartment combined with minor overpressure there passing through PTFE membrane, rises temparature of headlight housing internal air, additionally LED modules give further kick. The air inside housing is preheated considerably.
Following simulation was performed:
Part I(Hot part)
1. The car was driven almost 2 hrs, including 20 minutes highway drive with 150 km/h.
2. The car was stopped and 15 mins was parked.
3. Cotton rag poured with cold water was applied over front lens just for 3-4 mins.
4. Result - considerable presence of condensation of both headlights.
See videos and pictures.
Part II(Cold part)
1. The car was stopped and parked for abt 4 hrs.
2. All parts in engine bay including headlight housing were with ambient temparature - abt 23 deg °C.
3. Cotton rag poured with cold water was applied over front lens just for 5-6 mins plus switching on low beam in order to activate internal cooling fans.
4. Result - NO any presence of condensation in both headlights.
Weather conditions during both simulations:
Ambient temp abt 23-24 deg
Relative Humidity abt 45-60%
Sunny
Verdict:
If headlight housings are relativly cold and insulated some how(even the top visible part) the internal heat vector in housing could be deflected to front lens and thus the heat exchange could be modified so the air in cavity space of the headlight to be NOT so hot.
It is basic phisics, that hotter air is, more water it contains.
It also should be noted, that all processes concerning this issue and its final result are described by complicated non-linear interconnections, so even very minor change of temparature could give considerable reduction of condensation.
It should be stopped to consider cracks and other mechanical damages as reason for condensation.
Brgds.(soon when wi-fi avail Will upload and videos)
Additional pictures to my post #121.
Not possible to upload videos due to size/extension, so there are some photos explaining simplicity of simulation.
Is the headlight moisture problem confined to the W222 or does it affect other models as well?
Definitely not. I have the exact same problem with my 2017 SL550. MB dealer wants $3,450 to remove the original headlight & replace it with an MB OEM headlight.
As support evidence, proving that main contributing factor for headlight condensation is heat exchange and more specifically - excessive heat emitted by engine in engine compartment and its influence leading to preheating of headlight assembly is- no compliants by owners of another very similar MB model - EQC. I have not found anything regarding this issue reported by EQC user. There is nothing in internet(at least I have Not met).
The reason for that I suppose is due to fact, that there is no ICE in forward compartment, which means, that there is No source of significant heat.
Thus the headlight assembly is almost most of the time with temp very close to ambient, which means, that temp defference on both sides of the lens is negligible. If there is no difference between inside/outside temp, condensation would be not possible to form.
Hi everyone. I literally read everyone's post. I too am having the same issue. I have a 2015 S63 that I've had from day one. I've had my lights replaced 6x. I know I am a fool. I've gotten attached to this car and I just can't understand for the life of me how a car with 80k miles on it, I can't even drive it without the lights and modules going out. So can we all come to some type of consensus that the fix is to. Cause these technicians down here in Mississippi is confused and they are sick of me at the MB dealership.
1) Remove the Gel Packs
2) Silicone the modules
I think I can deal with the moisture in the light if I can just not have the modules going out.
Exactly what I had them do for me. Slight moisture in the lights, non-issue, goes away after a while. The Gel Packs WILL DESTROY your electronics.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
