Battery Testing
Otherwise test at the battery, ~12.7 VDC is fully charged for AGM (checked after charging and disconnected for a few hours) and battery should not drop below 10 VDC while starting. If you have a tester, pile or capacitance give those a rip as well.
What makes you suspect the battery or desire to check it?
Otherwise test at the battery, ~12.7 VDC is fully charged for AGM (checked after charging and disconnected for a few hours) and battery should not drop below 10 VDC while starting. If you have a tester, pile or capacitance give those a rip as well.
What makes you suspect the battery or desire to check it?
I just don't want to get stuck some place with a dead one (especially getting a call from the wife at the mall.) And I'm not wild about spending 1/2 hour or so removing and replacing trunk paneling to access it for testing. But I guess that's why MB wanted $175 to test the above poster's. Why they did this is beyond me.
I think the reason for this, though, is that the starter and aux batteries are tied together.
Anyway, I'm hoping for a shortcut but don't think there is one.
You could also install a charging pigtail/port and/or monitor in the trunk for easy access in future.
Or just buy a battery every few years, and don’t worry about it...
I just don't want to get stuck some place with a dead one (especially getting a call from the wife at the mall.) And I'm not wild about spending 1/2 hour or so removing and replacing trunk paneling to access it for testing. But I guess that's why MB wanted $175 to test the above poster's. Why they did this is beyond me.
I think the reason for this, though, is that the starter and aux batteries are tied together.
Anyway, I'm hoping for a shortcut but don't think there is one.
Starter and Aux Batteries are not tied together. If you connect a trickle charger to the Main Battery, it will NOT charge the Aux Battery.
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You could also install a charging pigtail/port and/or monitor in the trunk for easy access in future. /QUOTE]
Thanx...
Not sure what you're saying here. Is there something available where the posts could be added (extended thru the paneling) to where they are accessible for batt testing and can be protected against shorting when not needed?
You could also install a charging pigtail/port and/or monitor in the trunk for easy access in future. /QUOTE]
Thanx...
Not sure what you're saying here. Is there something available where the posts could be added (extended thru the paneling) to where they are accessible for batt testing and can be protected against shorting when not needed?
Another option is to install an panel mount adapter like this:
This can be used to hook up a maintainer AND one could make an adapter to perform voltage and/or capacitance checks. You could make test point for load testing, I'd envision using a 2 pin battery disconnect, appropriate gauge wire and terminals... that just seems like total overkill though. Example:
Personally I'd spend the 30 minutes once a year to check the battery with the load tester, or keep a lithium jump in the trunk or AAA.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/NOCO-Boost-Plus-GB40-1000-Amp-12-Volt-UltraSafe-Lithium-Jump-Starter-For-Up-To-6-Liter-Gasoline-And-4-Liter-Diesel-Engines/46605770
Don't really need one other than for jumping but definitely want it in a case of some sort.
Last edited by Jud Chapin; May 10, 2021 at 01:43 PM.
Thanks again for your help, bmwpowere36m3
Main Battery can be trickle charged with CTEK or Mercedes sells the same unit manufactured by CTEK.
The AUX Battery is a totally Separate Battery that is isolated from the main battery. It will only trickle charge when the car is running. It will require another maintainer.
In general, you should never see a battery sitting below 12.3ish After starting the car, you should immediately see 14V+ In newer vehicles, a management system takes over and will determine how much and when to charge the battery, this also saves fuel as there is not a constant drag on the alternator.
Last edited by Nice Ride; May 10, 2021 at 06:32 PM.
Main Battery can be trickle charged with CTEK or Mercedes sells the same unit manufactured by CTEK.
The AUX Battery is a totally Separate Battery that is isolated from the main battery. It will only trickle charge when the car is running. It will require another maintainer.
With a carbon pile, right? That's going to be tough because your pulling a few hundred amps... They have dedicated battery monitors, going rate is ~$200+ like this: https://www.amazon.com/Victron-BMV-7...791646ab2eea19
Another option is to install an panel mount adapter like this:
This can be used to hook up a maintainer AND one could make an adapter to perform voltage and/or capacitance checks. You could make test point for load testing, I'd envision using a 2 pin battery disconnect, appropriate gauge wire and terminals... that just seems like total overkill though. Example: https://www.amazon.com/connect-disco...81QPX51Y&psc=1
Personally I'd spend the 30 minutes once a year to check the battery with the load tester, or keep a lithium jump in the trunk or AAA.
Much better ...






