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oil additive

Old Jul 17, 2022 | 09:19 AM
  #1  
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oil additive

anyone using LiquiMoly Ceratec with Mobil 1 in 2016 S550? if so, is it worth it?

Last edited by vacs550; Jul 17, 2022 at 09:29 AM.
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Old Jul 17, 2022 | 10:08 AM
  #2  
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No oil or fuel additives are necessary, or "worth it". Change the oil at the prescribed intervals, and burn premium fuel.
Old Jul 17, 2022 | 12:50 PM
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Yes I have used it in my S550 and also used LM Molygen. I did not notice any difference. I believe the best thing you can do is routine (not extended) oil changes.
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Old Jul 17, 2022 | 07:45 PM
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Mobil 1 5w/40 or ow/40, MB Filter, 5k oil change. The MB 10k oil change is way too long. My oil analysis at 7K was the limit for me. I just do 5k in all our MB.
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Old Jul 19, 2022 | 08:05 PM
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Modern oils, of appropriate grade and specifications, do not need additives.
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Old Jul 19, 2022 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by vacs550
anyone using LiquiMoly Ceratec with Mobil 1 in 2016 S550? if so, is it worth it?
I used Mobil 1 Euro 0W-40 for many years in several different Mercedes ('09 C230, '00 ML320, '08 E350). I had an ongoing issue in all of them, with the oil turning black after about 2k miles and the engines wearing out. They would also consume oil.

The Ceratec is very popular. It is boron nitride. Some people, however, find that it fouls spark plugs.

Through my own research, I found Red Line High Performance is the very best oil money can buy. The main advantage is that you can use 0W-30 in your turbocharged S550 and still have the protection of 5W-40 because the HTHS is so high (3.4). The protection lasts for thousands of miles because it's not some additive trick. It contains very stable, ester-based molecules that are Class V oil. I combine it with Archoil AR9100 in my '08 E350. The Archoil a more modern, hexagonal boron nitrate formulation than the Ceratec. It is used by all kinds of industrial diesel and gasoline engines, from construction, to marine transport, to fleet engines to reduce molecular sliding friction and metal-to-metal contact, fill microscopic asperities, coat parts during cold startup and greatly increase the total base number (TBN). Field testing of used oil often shows that drain intervals can be extended 2-3 times as long.

My pickup and transmission shifts in my E350 are now noticeably better. My gas mileage went from 26.5 to 32 MPG on the highway. I don't have any more blackened oil, probably because I am getting better ring seal with a lighter oil and better compression with smoothed asperities. It's all expensive, but definitely worth it!

Last edited by TechSurfer; Jul 19, 2022 at 09:04 PM.
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Old Jul 20, 2022 | 05:13 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by TechSurfer
I used Mobil 1 Euro 0W-40 for many years in several different Mercedes ('09 C230, '00 ML320, '08 E350). I had an ongoing issue in all of them, with the oil turning black after about 2k miles and the engines wearing out. They would also consume oil.
What oil-change-interval did you use ?
And can you describe you typical driving style ?

The Ceratec is very popular. It is boron nitride. Some people, however, find that it fouls spark plugs.

Through my own research, I found Red Line High Performance is the very best oil money can buy. The main advantage is that you can use 0W-30 in your turbocharged S550 and still have the protection of 5W-40 because the HTHS is so high (3.4). The protection lasts for thousands of miles because it's not some additive trick. It contains very stable, ester-based molecules that are Class V oil.
I, too, have used a lot of Red Line Oils over the decades.
A decade ago (maybe a tad longer) RL had a 10W-30 oil with an HTHS of 4.2.
And, yes, only ester based oils can get these kinds of HTHS numbers.

I combine it with Archoil AR9100 in my '08 E350. The Archoil a more modern, hexagonal boron nitrate formulation than the Ceratec. It is used by all kinds of industrial diesel and gasoline engines, from construction, to marine transport, to fleet engines to reduce molecular sliding friction and metal-to-metal contact, fill microscopic asperities, coat parts during cold startup and greatly increase the total base number (TBN). Field testing of used oil often shows that drain intervals can be extended 2-3 times as long.
Cubic Boron Nitrate is used in making cutting tools for the hardest substances (like forged and heat treated 4140 at Rockwell 63)
I am surprised the hexagonal BN is a friction modifier.
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Old Dec 9, 2023 | 12:42 PM
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For cleaning out the rings, I'd suggest doing searches on Bob is the Oil Guy (BITOG) forums.
There is much info on the OM642 and oils. High Performance Lubricants makes high AN and Ester oils for cleaning up engines, particularly rings. A "cleaning oil" that is used for 2k miles at a ratio of 1 in 5. They also make a 5W-30 Euro oil that "meets" the MB 229.51 approval and ACEA E3 specification. There are no flushing chemicals or solvents in these oils, they are formulated with Ester and AN base lubricants that do the cleaning.
These are highly regarded on BITOG and there is plenty of photos and used oil analysis of results. It cleaned minor sludging out of our 2010 BMW with N52 engine.
High Performance Lubricants Website

However, the most common cause of oil consumption issues with OM642 engines is the CCV (PCV) system. The CCV Cover at the back of the left bank head has a rubber piece that rides against the cam with integrated separator. Simplistic explanation; The rubber piece wears out and allows unseparated crankcase fumes to be sucked in around the cam and through to the intake in front of turbo. The diaphragm in the Breather Assembly will also wear out and the whole assembly needs to be replaced to stop the oil consumption at that source.
CCV Cover

Breather Assembly



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Old Jan 10, 2025 | 06:43 AM
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2016 W166 gle 350d
Hello, Im jumping into this thread at the end here.

After reading this thread I find my self rather confused, there seems to be a lot of prior knowledge relating to peoples personal options on oils etc.

I just bought my self a used W166 350D and I am busy trying to research on how to best look after this car to try and get good long life out of the car.

Could someone please in unbiast simple words explain the two oil train thoughts to me?

It seems there is team A:

Just put in what merc wants

And then team B:

WHo thinks merc is chasing short-term gains at the cost of longevity?


My vehicle is no in service plan, I just want to put the best maintenance into the system as possible.

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Old Jan 10, 2025 | 07:37 AM
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Purchase good motor oil (per MB spec), change it often (diesel particularly), avoid additives.

This channel is a great resource:
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Old Jan 11, 2025 | 12:21 PM
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Oil additives, fuel additives, very often oil changes, etc.... save your money guys, these are useless and waste of money for 99% of the time. If you wanna gamble on the 1%, yes, sure it's your money. To me, I follow some of these practices only for mental happiness, but I'd never spend too much money on either of these : )... 20 bucks for a fuel additive, well, why not... Anything more than that like paying 2X for oil change costing 100s of dollars per year and thousands of dollars over the years especially when under warranty, complete waste of time and money. My strategy is to get good fuel, do oil changes at the dealer or a shop you trust using OEM quality oil, and that's it. I bet that oil additives have ZERO benefits compared to OEM only oil with factory oil change intervals. I wouldn't even trust adding any of these to my engine.

Last edited by S_W222; Jan 11, 2025 at 12:22 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2025 | 02:51 AM
  #12  
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From: Uppsala
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Omega 917

Denna produkt har jag använt många år vid oljelekage samt förebygga detta i motor samt sevo och växellåda med väldigt fina resultat.
Vid lekage slå I 3% av oljemängden eller för förebyggande 1%
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Old Jan 12, 2025 | 02:17 PM
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E350
Originally Posted by Zapnologica
Hello, Im jumping into this thread at the end here.

After reading this thread I find my self rather confused, there seems to be a lot of prior knowledge relating to peoples personal options on oils etc.

I just bought my self a used W166 350D and I am busy trying to research on how to best look after this car to try and get good long life out of the car.

Could someone please in unbiast simple words explain the two oil train thoughts to me?

It seems there is team A:

Just put in what merc wants

And then team B:

WHo thinks merc is chasing short-term gains at the cost of longevity?


My vehicle is no in service plan, I just want to put the best maintenance into the system as possible.
There is no "team B" here on this post. I, for sure, did not mean to imply that Merc is acting with a sinister intent at short-term gains. If anything, I've read that European oil "specifications" involve mainly additives that are well intention efforts to keep engines cleaner and extend engine life, while simultaneously reducing air pollution and the environmental impacts associated with unnecessary oil changes. As a result, Mercedes and other manufactures have extended oil change intervals to 10,000 miles in the case of my gasoline engine (M272).

Oil change intervals and additives are, however, very complicated subjects due to widely varying driving habits, environmental conditions and engine design. The recommended 10,000 mile interval is based on the overwhelming majority of people who drive their car every day, back and forth to work, approximately 30 minutes each way.

In may case, the cars were driven approximately once a week, for short intervals under 15 minutes, subject to cold winters. In these scenarios, based on much oil research, the oil change internal needs to be drastically reduced. The additives also have been of great been of great benefit, both in studies I've read and in practice in the results I've witnessed.
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Old Jan 13, 2025 | 11:09 AM
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The best video I’ve seen on this subject of 10,000 mile oil change frequency, especially as a 2021 Tundra owner (bulletproof… almost).



Last edited by bdunn; Jan 13, 2025 at 11:10 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2025 | 04:14 AM
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Thank you very much, bdunn. I really enjoyed the video.
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Old Feb 18, 2025 | 09:31 PM
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Another Lake Speed Jr video on oil additives

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