Brakes




Any insight?
i did the brakes today on the wife’s suburban and recently i got a brake screen on start up.
any tips on bleeding this?
i have a fluid extractor and filler
i have oem pads and rotors and am at about 60k mi
thanks




What was the challenge with the parking brake?




Any insight?
i did the brakes today on the wife’s suburban and recently i got a brake screen on start up.
any tips on bleeding this?
i have a fluid extractor and filler
i have oem pads and rotors and am at about 60k mi
thanks
the fluid extractor works perfectly. you'll need to reset the brake warning though through Xentry or the Chinese aftermarket equivalent aka Autel/iCarsoft/Foxwell
you're going to want to disarm the rear brakes using the menu from the steering wheel and set them to service position, much easier than getting tools out. They autoadjust as you use the brakes make sure you test for brake function before you have your first real stop. For the fronts you can use the old pad and a c-clamp with a towel to avoid marring the caliper
60k is a good life for brakes, thats like double I would have expected, you got your moneys worth! The procedure otherwise is the same as every other German car out there, dual through-pins on the front, slider pins on the back. Lubricate your tabs and backing plate, even if it has the sticky backing 3M thing, just grease it. That sticky backing always gums up, the piston makes direct contact through it and is useless after a long haul. Rears have slider pins IIRC, brush them off and regrease. If you're looking for a good grease, ATE plastilube is the best, the CRC generic stuff works well too but it's easy to get carried away since the brush is huge.
Also you can totally remove the discs without removing the caliper bracket. Not a contest, but it's designed that way for expediency and cuz Germans hate the idea of a bolt not being exactly the way it was installed. Please change your DOT4 to ATE SL6 or Pentosin Super DOT4 LV. Low viscosity fluids work with PreSAFE, ABS, stability control, etc.
Please if you can source them, buy new brake hardware. You can actually have small amounts of squealing from worn spring clips allowing the pad to shimmy around in there. The pins are ok to re-use forever. And of course you'll need new sensors too.
Alpha European Autotech
Purchase Amsoil at 25% off from me
Chris Tran, Retired Alpha European Autotech Owner
Amsoil Independent Dealer #7236674




the fluid extractor works perfectly. you'll need to reset the brake warning though through Xentry or the Chinese aftermarket equivalent aka Autel/iCarsoft/Foxwell
you're going to want to disarm the rear brakes using the menu from the steering wheel and set them to service position, much easier than getting tools out. They autoadjust as you use the brakes make sure you test for brake function before you have your first real stop. For the fronts you can use the old pad and a c-clamp with a towel to avoid marring the caliper
60k is a good life for brakes, thats like double I would have expected, you got your moneys worth! The procedure otherwise is the same as every other German car out there, dual through-pins on the front, slider pins on the back. Lubricate your tabs and backing plate, even if it has the sticky backing 3M thing, just grease it. That sticky backing always gums up, the piston makes direct contact through it and is useless after a long haul. Rears have slider pins IIRC, brush them off and regrease. If you're looking for a good grease, ATE plastilube is the best, the CRC generic stuff works well too but it's easy to get carried away since the brush is huge.
Also you can totally remove the discs without removing the caliper bracket. Not a contest, but it's designed that way for expediency and cuz Germans hate the idea of a bolt not being exactly the way it was installed. Please change your DOT4 to ATE SL6 or Pentosin Super DOT4 LV. Low viscosity fluids work with PreSAFE, ABS, stability control, etc.
Please if you can source them, buy new brake hardware. You can actually have small amounts of squealing from worn spring clips allowing the pad to shimmy around in there. The pins are ok to re-use forever. And of course you'll need new sensors too.





