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Old Jul 8, 2023 | 10:20 PM
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From: In The Woods
2019 W222 S560 4Matic/2025 Yukon Denali
Brakes

Anyone ever do a brake job and brake bleed on an S560?
Any insight?
i did the brakes today on the wife’s suburban and recently i got a brake screen on start up.
any tips on bleeding this?
i have a fluid extractor and filler
i have oem pads and rotors and am at about 60k mi
thanks
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Old Jul 10, 2023 | 07:32 PM
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2022 AMG GT 53, 2020 Sl450. Did drive 2018 S450
I did replace all four brakes. Only challenge was disabling parking brake. Other than that it was one of the easier ones I did. I didn't do the fluid as this was covered by by my pre-paid maintenance.
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Old Jul 10, 2023 | 10:55 PM
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2019 W222 S560 4Matic/2025 Yukon Denali
Originally Posted by Merserybenze
I did replace all four brakes. Only challenge was disabling parking brake. Other than that it was one of the easier ones I did. I didn't do the fluid as this was covered by by my pre-paid maintenance.
Good to hear, thank you.
What was the challenge with the parking brake?
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Old Jul 11, 2023 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by vinflouen
Good to hear, thank you.
What was the challenge with the parking brake?
You need to go in the service menu to do so, it is straight forward (theoretically) but a combination of buttons needs to be done correctly to enter that mode.
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Old Jul 11, 2023 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by vinflouen
Good to hear, thank you.
What was the challenge with the parking brake?
This video will be easier to understand


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Old Jul 12, 2023 | 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by vinflouen
Anyone ever do a brake job and brake bleed on an S560?
Any insight?
i did the brakes today on the wife’s suburban and recently i got a brake screen on start up.
any tips on bleeding this?
i have a fluid extractor and filler
i have oem pads and rotors and am at about 60k mi
thanks
yep i've done it twice on the same customer car

the fluid extractor works perfectly. you'll need to reset the brake warning though through Xentry or the Chinese aftermarket equivalent aka Autel/iCarsoft/Foxwell

you're going to want to disarm the rear brakes using the menu from the steering wheel and set them to service position, much easier than getting tools out. They autoadjust as you use the brakes make sure you test for brake function before you have your first real stop. For the fronts you can use the old pad and a c-clamp with a towel to avoid marring the caliper

60k is a good life for brakes, thats like double I would have expected, you got your moneys worth! The procedure otherwise is the same as every other German car out there, dual through-pins on the front, slider pins on the back. Lubricate your tabs and backing plate, even if it has the sticky backing 3M thing, just grease it. That sticky backing always gums up, the piston makes direct contact through it and is useless after a long haul. Rears have slider pins IIRC, brush them off and regrease. If you're looking for a good grease, ATE plastilube is the best, the CRC generic stuff works well too but it's easy to get carried away since the brush is huge.

Also you can totally remove the discs without removing the caliper bracket. Not a contest, but it's designed that way for expediency and cuz Germans hate the idea of a bolt not being exactly the way it was installed. Please change your DOT4 to ATE SL6 or Pentosin Super DOT4 LV. Low viscosity fluids work with PreSAFE, ABS, stability control, etc.

Please if you can source them, buy new brake hardware. You can actually have small amounts of squealing from worn spring clips allowing the pad to shimmy around in there. The pins are ok to re-use forever. And of course you'll need new sensors too.
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Old Jul 12, 2023 | 04:36 PM
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From: In The Woods
2019 W222 S560 4Matic/2025 Yukon Denali
Originally Posted by ChrisHimself
yep i've done it twice on the same customer car

the fluid extractor works perfectly. you'll need to reset the brake warning though through Xentry or the Chinese aftermarket equivalent aka Autel/iCarsoft/Foxwell

you're going to want to disarm the rear brakes using the menu from the steering wheel and set them to service position, much easier than getting tools out. They autoadjust as you use the brakes make sure you test for brake function before you have your first real stop. For the fronts you can use the old pad and a c-clamp with a towel to avoid marring the caliper

60k is a good life for brakes, thats like double I would have expected, you got your moneys worth! The procedure otherwise is the same as every other German car out there, dual through-pins on the front, slider pins on the back. Lubricate your tabs and backing plate, even if it has the sticky backing 3M thing, just grease it. That sticky backing always gums up, the piston makes direct contact through it and is useless after a long haul. Rears have slider pins IIRC, brush them off and regrease. If you're looking for a good grease, ATE plastilube is the best, the CRC generic stuff works well too but it's easy to get carried away since the brush is huge.

Also you can totally remove the discs without removing the caliper bracket. Not a contest, but it's designed that way for expediency and cuz Germans hate the idea of a bolt not being exactly the way it was installed. Please change your DOT4 to ATE SL6 or Pentosin Super DOT4 LV. Low viscosity fluids work with PreSAFE, ABS, stability control, etc.

Please if you can source them, buy new brake hardware. You can actually have small amounts of squealing from worn spring clips allowing the pad to shimmy around in there. The pins are ok to re-use forever. And of course you'll need new sensors too.
thank you Sir!
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