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Fewer still can do calculus problems in their heads.........
There is an inexpensive device that can be used to measure IF the Alignment is WORKING. Its name is a probe tip Pyrometer.
It can MEASURE if your camber is right and tell you which way your driving style should move away from the factory settings.
It can MEASURE if your Toe is right, and tell you which way your driving style should move away from the factory settings.
AND all you have to do is find a section (say 20 miles) of road that is "like" the roads you want the maximum tire life--then drive that road--get out immediately and take 3 readings on all 4 tires.
When I bought mine is was about $100 and will save you thousands or tens of thousands of tire dollars over your driving career.
{{Also NOTE WELL:: alignment does nothing, if there is a corner-weight misbalance already in the car. If you get a car too far out of "factory settings*" you go back to ride-height and corner weighting before going on into alignment.}}
(*) Yes I saw you claim your car is factory stock. BUT something is going on and we need measurements to get at the root cause.
I agree with the sentiment, but apparently a visit to that shop did not get the job done. {{I had a similar problem with my F355 until I took it to a race car preparation shop with the equipment to setup the suspension correctly. One trip and it is still in spec 18 years later.}}
Too much dynamic caster change (with steering angle:: with some influence by king pin inclination) can also cause "funny" tire wear too. That is one reason we need to see what the machine "read".
When you take the car to the alignment shop, you want ½ a tank of gasoline, your weight in lead to be put in the front seat, the tire at the pressures you MEASURE while driving around*, so the car is sitting on the alignment machine as if you were driving down the road.
(*) This is typically 6-10 PSI higher than sitting cold in your garage. You have direct access to tire pressure through the COMMAND system--take a look after the car has driving 30 miles in some normal fashion.
yes true ...we need to see the specs they got intially..Alternatively get them to allow someone to be in the drivers seat. Last time i had my EVO aligned and corner weighted, the shop had me sit in the seat while they did the job..
All the controversy - plain and simple it comes back that there is now only one OEM “Camber setting” (at showroom height).
Yet tires are expensive - Gone are the days of being able to adjust / resolve costly premature excess edge wear brought about through extra load or lowering to improve handling. Passenger side wear through high cambered roads or just having “ongoing adjustment capability” for curb knock damage.
IT’S ALL TO DO WITH COST CUTTING AND “EVER INCREASING SPEED” OF NEW CAR ASSEMBLY LINES.
THE OFTEN QUOTED RE ASSURING - WILL CARRY OUT A “FULL FRONT & REAR ‘4’ WHEEL ALIGNMENT” is in fact only basic Toe - “DIRECTIONAL” ADJUSTMENT (new car industry’s best kept secret).
Yes can fit OEM Camber bolts (front only) but only one offset position providing minuscule .3 of one degree.
We saw the need and manufacture front Camber (and Caster adjustment also for the first time). Along with Rear Camber (and “Extra Toe” to compensate).
FIXING IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME - WITH ‘4’ TIMES THE ADJUSTMENT RANGE and K-MAC patented design breakthrough allows fast / precise single wrench adjustment. ULTIMATE - “UNDER LOAD” direct on alignment rack.
SEE SPOILER
AUDI TO VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !
Spoiler
W222 All incl. S63, 65 AMG
FRONT CAMBER ONLY #503016i $345 (Both Sides)
Less cost than one Tire.
FRONT CAMBER & CASTER #503016K $480 (Both Sides)
Caster bushes are Mono ball / Self aligning also significantly improving brake and steering response.
REAR SUSPENSION CAMBER (and extra Toe to compensate) #502626K $480 (Both Sides)
ALSO MNF. Uprated Bushings for the 6 Rear Multi Link Arms - Less rear end flex, loss of traction. Especially when applying power to lane change / overtake. #502928K $480 (Both Sides)
ALONG WITH: Front Upper arm Camber / Caster adjuster kit and Rear Upper arm Camber and extra Toe kits - but more difficult to fit, more time consuming to accurately adjust and when wanting to resolve inner edge wear - reduce important clearance top of tire to outer fender.
DHL Express Delivery Worldwide $40 one kit ($20 each extra).
S Class sorta just do this, they load/deload a ton of weight on the front wheels. Everybody inspect your sway bar end links though for me and make sure everything is cool. These cars go through them quite a bit due to what I just said. I'm sure everybody is fine but just constantly inspect your sway bar links on these cars and it'd be a cheap fix. They do a ton of work for how little they cost and theres a ton of engineering that goes into them.
I wish someone would give a link to the front camber correction devices that fit the 2019 W222 Sedan S560 4MATIC with air bag suspension. There is no one device that seems to be consistently listed on the internet to fix this condition. It's just a wash of different things and none really give what they fit or they are personally made by someone.
I wish someone would give a link to the front camber correction devices that fit the 2019 W222 Sedan S560 4MATIC with air bag suspension. There is no one device that seems to be consistently listed on the internet to fix this condition. It's just a wash of different things and none really give what they fit or they are personally made by someone.
KMAC looks to be offering a solution just two posts above yours.
I have not tried their products but it looks good.
Some assembly required as is expected when doing anything worthwhile.
Did I miss a suggestion to inspect bushings and ball joints? On my W211 E55 I had three worn ball joints and two worn bushings at only 99K miles...I replaced them all control and thrust arms again by 200K miles.
It's worth a look.
FWIW, I had KMac bushings on the front from 100K to 200K and was satisfied with them. Ask Kevin if he provides them for this model car.
Did I miss a suggestion to inspect bushings and ball joints? On my W211 E55 I had three worn ball joints and two worn bushings at only 99K miles...I replaced them all control and thrust arms again by 200K miles.
It's worth a look.
FWIW, I had KMac bushings on the front from 100K to 200K and was satisfied with them. Ask Kevin if he provides them for this model car.
You managed to get 99,000 out of them! I can just imagine how sloppy they must have been. I never got front lower arms (all four) to last much more then 30,000 in my ‘06 E55.
Did I miss a suggestion to inspect bushings and ball joints? On my W211 E55 I had three worn ball joints and two worn bushings at only 99K miles...I replaced them all control and thrust arms again by 200K miles.
It's worth a look.
FWIW, I had KMac bushings on the front from 100K to 200K and was satisfied with them. Ask Kevin if he provides them for this model car.
Yes certainly do - missing S560 is an oversight.
Manufacturing over 800 P/N’s and is hectic. We’re not sitting on our hands - constantly designing / developing / improving both front and rear Camber, Caster, Toe kits to extend tire life / cater for OEM shortcomings !
Yes certainly do - missing S560 is an oversight.
Kevin
Help Kevin!
I will be calling you.
Just got the car aligned with the new tires on it. The LF wheel is sitting at -1.25 degrees Camber. Way out of spec. The RF is -1.0 degrees Camber still out of spec by about a .5 degree too negative. The LF is .75 degrees too negative.
The total toe on the front was actually toed-in .14 degrees so that would explain the RF outer edge wearing. The excessive negative camber on LF explains the horrible tire wear there. I had also let the tires get too low so that didn't help. Now they will stay at 39 cold.
So Kevin is getting a call. Don't know whether I'm going adjustable upper strut mounts or adjustable upper control arms. Hope to have the answer soon. There is no way I'm going to keep putting tires on this car every oil change.
Sorry OP if I have usurped your thread but if this is a common issue then we can all learn something here and maybe not have to buy so many tires.
Now for new front brakes, wiper blades, transmission and transfer case services. It never ends.
BTW the Kumho tires were perfectly round, needed less than 2 oz of weights between the 2 tires, ride perfectly smooth and have a higher speed rating and tread life than OEM. $126 ea. at Tire Rack
Just called Kevin.
He suggested the lower control arm inner bushings kit. This kit is just for Camber. He has one for Camber and Caster as well.
This is the website for the part. https://k-mac-camber-kits.com/produc...-s-s63-65-amg/
$345 plus $40 for shipping. You have to have the bushings installed into the existing lower control arms. 1 bushing per arm. He says it comes with instructions and some tools needed to remove and install the bushing from arm.
So add an alignment and labor for bushing install by an independent garage and this is easily $1,000 dollars or about the cost of 2 Michelins mounted and balanced on the front at the dealer.
Just called Kevin.
He suggested the lower control arm inner bushings kit. This kit is just for Camber. He has one for Camber and Caster as well.
This is the website for the part. https://k-mac-camber-kits.com/produc...-s-s63-65-amg/
$345 plus $40 for shipping. You have to have the bushings installed into the existing lower control arms. 1 bushing per arm. He says it comes with instructions and some tools needed to remove and install the bushing from arm.
So add an alignment and labor for bushing install by an independent garage and this is easily $1,000 dollars or about the cost of 2 Michelins mounted and balanced on the front at the dealer.
Sending you tomorrow Friday. Means should receive Monday next.
Your mention of fitting / labour cost - decided to spend this week and complete project of making. ALL ADJUSTABLE BUSH KITS “BOLT-ON”. (No special tools or time consuming arm removal and need for hydraulic press).
“NOW DIY” - AND LESS THEN HALF THE FITMENT TIME.
THIS COMBINED WITH THE EXISTING DESIGN BREAKTHROUGH. K-MAC Patented System “HOW ADJUSTMENT IS MADE” - Which has revolutionized both simplicity of adjustment and precision.
Last 40 or so years has required time consuming arm removal. Then removing of OEM bush and press in offset bush at certain clock setting. Example 1 O’Clock for one degree 3 O’Clock for 1.5 degree. Reconnecting arms and trialing on alignment rack. Repeat entire procedure if not correct setting.
K-MAC design allows bush to be inserted once and in any position. Then ULTIMATE Adjustment (on alignment rack under load). Head of bolt is simply rotated to exact setting and locked in position.
ALIGN SHOPS (BEING A NEW CONCEPT) ARE WARY - ABOVE BEING THE ESTABLISHED TIME CONSUMING METHOD. At first sighting K-MAC adjuster kits “How can this possibly work - where are the instructions re clock positions” !
BUT.... once they get their head around it - realize brilliant in its simplicity of adjustment (often said the simplest design is the best design).
Car is lowered 20mm. Didn't expect tire wear like this. The next alignment will be done while vehicle is at it's lowered state.
I bought 2 new tires from Tire Rack for $126 each. I figured with the tire wear issue I'm going to figure it out before putting expensive tires on it. Plus these have the same load rating and higher speed and wear ratings than OEM's.
Kumho 245/45 R19 102W
. LF tire LF tire RF tire Ready to install, won't fit in trunk LOL Of course now I have to have a spare because these are not run flat tires.
So sometime this week I get new tires and another alignment.
10-31-2023, 08:09 AM
